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Isles12

Shaving composite goal stick paddle

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No shaving cream or razor required!

I've seen this topic come up a few times so I figured I'd do a small write up. I cut a custom grip into a Bauer 1s (with a cracked paddle). I basically did this as a practice run so I didn't do the prettiest job.

I used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, however I'm sure there are other and likely better options out there.

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I marked the paddle with a sharpie in the approximate pattern that I wanted

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Then I clamped the stick to a table and made the cuts. Hardest part was getting the saw to bite initially but it was a pretty easy process. Obviously wear safety glasses while cutting.

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Inside the paddle is a black foam it's fairly soft you can easily gouge it with your fingernail. You can see the darker black composite that surrounds the foam.

I would recommend sealing the cut and then taping up the handle to keep any moisture out of the internals of the stick. I'm not really sure what to use to seal the cut, maybe some composite/fibreglass patch, epoxy, jb weld, even superglue?

Anyways, that's about as far as I've gotten. The stick still seems solid or at least as good as it was before. It withstood me flexing it on both sides

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Make sure you sand it down with lower grit then higher grit to smooth down the edges, honestly the only way I ‘seal’ it is regular stick tape, the thing where you can gouge it out with your fingers hasn’t been an issue for me as long as it’s taped. 

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great job, i did a grip like this on my old sherwod 530, came out nice. Make sure you use sandpaper or what @southpawtendy48 said to do w the lower grit to higher grit to smoothen it out. If you dont youll get splinter(s) on my 530 i had to resand it bc i didnt smooth it out enough and got a splinter in my hand

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1 hour ago, Isles12 said:

No shaving cream or razor required!

I've seen this topic come up a few times so I figured I'd do a small write up. I cut a custom grip into a Bauer 1s (with a cracked paddle). I basically did this as a practice run so I didn't do the prettiest job.

I used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, however I'm sure there are other and likely better options out there.

IMG_0168.thumb.JPG.8e5dac019c0da203c01c64ea0b9ec86c.JPG

I marked the paddle with a sharpie in the approximate pattern that I wanted

IMG_0167.thumb.JPG.c989e96b5f51f0db35757a8683c41b1e.JPG

Then I clamped the stick to a table and made the cuts. Hardest part was getting the saw to bite initially but it was a pretty easy process. Obviously wear safety glasses while cutting.

IMG_0169.thumb.JPG.6615ac3ac22724efd451927264bbfafa.JPG

IMG_0170.thumb.JPG.542b1cea19a9835505fa68f84388a6bf.JPG

Inside the paddle is a black foam it's fairly soft you can easily gouge it with your fingernail. You can see the darker black composite that surrounds the foam.

I would recommend sealing the cut and then taping up the handle to keep any moisture out of the internals of the stick. I'm not really sure what to use to seal the cut, maybe some composite/fibreglass patch, epoxy, jb weld, even superglue?

Anyways, that's about as far as I've gotten. The stick still seems solid or at least as good as it was before. It withstood me flexing it on both sides

I have been thinking of doing this to my 1S also. Not exactly the same grip cut, but something along those lines. Good to know for future reference!

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1 hour ago, Isles12 said:

'm not really sure what to use to seal the cut, maybe some composite/fibreglass patch, epoxy, jb weld, even superglue?

2

I would recommend a two-part epoxy - strong, self-leveling, easy to use, water-resistant, quick drying. 

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1 hour ago, southpawtendy48 said:

Make sure you sand it down with lower grit then higher grit to smooth down the edges, honestly the only way I ‘seal’ it is regular stick tape, the thing where you can gouge it out with your fingers hasn’t been an issue for me as long as it’s taped. 

51 minutes ago, Max27 said:

great job, i did a grip like this on my old sherwod 530, came out nice. Make sure you use sandpaper or what @southpawtendy48 said to do w the lower grit to higher grit to smoothen it out. If you dont youll get splinter(s) on my 530 i had to resand it bc i didnt smooth it out enough and got a splinter in my hand

Good point on the sanding. I did sand it just forgot to mention it

16 minutes ago, dualshowman said:

I would recommend a two-part epoxy - strong, self-leveling, easy to use, water-resistant, quick drying. 

Sounds good. I'll have to take a look around my garage I'm sure I've got something laying around

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56 minutes ago, Isles12 said:

Good point on the sanding. I did sand it just forgot to mention it

Sounds good. I'll have to take a look around my garage I'm sure I've got something laying around

If you have a palm sander those work great 61q3lkNRaML._SL1356_.thumb.jpg.191192324085593c0f96d9346c955f5f.jpg

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I’ve done this with foam core but not yet with composite. I need to pick up another CR3 and give it a go. I had been using a Dremel on the foam core but it’s nof the smoothest result and it’s a bitch to get smooth. A jigsaw would work but I don’t have one. 

I was thinking maybe instead of using a dremel with a sanding drum, I switch it out for a cutting tool. That might be better for the initial job. 

I’d probably use two part epoxy to seal it even if I do wrap it in stretch wrap. 

After using a custom grip (similar to yours) I just can’t go back. My hand literally hurts for a couple days after a game when I use a standard paddle shape.

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Reading IPv6Freely’s comment, I should also mention is that it should be fine with composites. Did it with two  Sherwood t120s and I’m currently using my dremel for my bpm150. It can take some patience, a jigsaw would be quicker but be very careful and make sure you have a good table/vice for it as it can vibrate, and make sure to not cut into the shaft. Also would recommend the two part epoxy as some super glues might not last as long. 

Edited by southpawtendy48

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I’ve used Zap glue ( pink label) https://www.zapglue.com/ca to seal up a composite. It works really well and lasts a long time. It wicks into the foam and glass. You can also use it to fix cracks in sticks.  

You can find it in hobby stores that sell rc planes.

Edited by Ross
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The plasti dip worked well for adding grip on the BPM150. It could be used over the exposed area on the composite. It's not permanent though. You need to redo it from time to time

I will probably try cutting a stick at some point soon.

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So I cut my second stick over the weekend. This is an nxg dressed as a 1s. The paddle is too tall for me so I wanted to take about 2.5" off.

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Here are the cuts I made

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Unfortunately there's a hole in my stick now lol. The stick is hollow all the way until the R in Bauer for anyone who's curious and this is the top of the paddle for reference. I'm not really too worried about it since my blocker will be over this part anyways. 

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I applied some 2 part epoxy over the exposed foam and fibres. I thought about covering the hole but didn't bother as I don't think it will matter much.

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Here's the finished handle with grip tape.

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