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TheGoalNet

Composite Stick Repair

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Clean blade thoroughly. I would say acetone, but that could degrade your foam. Go to the hardware store, buy some powdered graphite and household (or even heavy duty) epoxy. Make a 50/50 (or so) mixture, spead it into the cracks, tape it down with electrical tape to compact it. Of course I may not be seeing all that is going on. You may need to rough up the blade with 80 grit sandpaper and wrap the blade with fibreglass tape and aircraft epoxy. Can't quite see everything going on. But the epoxy/powdered graphite may do the trick for awhile.

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7 hours ago, bunnyman666 said:

Clean blade thoroughly. I would say acetone, but that could degrade your foam. Go to the hardware store, buy some powdered graphite and household (or even heavy duty) epoxy. Make a 50/50 (or so) mixture, spead it into the cracks, tape it down with electrical tape to compact it. Of course I may not be seeing all that is going on. You may need to rough up the blade with 80 grit sandpaper and wrap the blade with fibreglass tape and aircraft epoxy. Can't quite see everything going on. But the epoxy/powdered graphite may do the trick for awhile.

It's not all the way cracked through. I'm hoping to salvage this and keep it a backup. 

Will using the sandpaper make this worse?

what other photos can help your recommendation ?

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4 hours ago, TheGoalNet said:

It's not all the way cracked through. I'm hoping to salvage this and keep it a backup. 

Will using the sandpaper make this worse?

what other photos can help your recommendation ?

Sandpaper would not make it worse if you were wrapping the blade. 

Really, the only better way for me to get a recommendation for you is to physically look it over. But filling the cracks and re-bonding with the epoxy/powdered graphite mix would do an admirable job keeping it intact as a back up. Back in the day, we used glass balloons, but graphite powder is much better. 

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At the now defunct board, someone had an approach similar to Bunny's that worked. I think it was @Hills but I am not positive.

 

mod edit note: In the future, please use the tagging feature so other users know they're being mentioned and can give their input.  Just type the "@" and keep typing the name, no spaces.  Thanks

Edited by SaveByRichter35
See note

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3 hours ago, bunnyman666 said:

Sandpaper would not make it worse if you were wrapping the blade. 

Really, the only better way for me to get a recommendation for you is to physically look it over. But filling the cracks and re-bonding with the epoxy/powdered graphite mix would do an admirable job keeping it intact as a back up. Back in the day, we used glass balloons, but graphite powder is much better. 

There's not really a full crack to inject everything into though, Id need a syringe or something 

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 I went to Home Depot today and their website had they had it in stock and no one in the store could find. The computer said it was not assigned to an isle and that was a dead end 

 

They sent me to Pep Boys and Pep Boys does not carry either

 

I am just going to proceed forward with some epoxy 

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On 5/20/2017 at 7:36 PM, Fullright said:

At the now defunct board, someone had an approach similar to Bunny's that worked. I think it was @Hills but I am not positive.

 

mod edit note: In the future, please use the tagging feature so other users know they're being mentioned and can give their input.  Just type the "@" and keep typing the name, no spaces.  Thanks

OK – now I know why people do the “ @” - never knew that before. Perhaps you can’t teach an old dog new tricks, but you can at least let him know about them.:o

@Fullright  – it may have been me you were thinking about. One of the first posts I ever put on GCN was about my Sherwood 5030 that broke clean in the middle of the blade after about a half a dozen games – I was looking for input on possible repair

Ultimately, I got some Kevlar from a fellow I work with and had some epoxy resin, so I set about repairing it. I have pics but won’t take up bandwidth unless anyone really wants to see them.

The thumbnail summary is, the repair did work for a few games, but in my case, I guess I didn’t sand far enough out and feather out the epoxy well enough because the Kevlar delaminated from the blade about 4 or 5 inches from the original crack and the blade just broke in a different place.

The other (and probably larger to most people) issue was, by adding the Kevlar, I really increased the weight of the stick (foam core weigh next to nothing to start with, so any weight addition will be noticeable). I didn’t really care coming from a wood stick background, but I know a lot of people do.

I conclude by saying that this is why I won’t buy another foam-core stick: 6 or so games with a break is unacceptable – especially as I was playing with a low level group and no slap-shots. I use composite now because at least I get a 30 day warrantee – I figure after 30 days, it will have broken or will be there for a while.

Actually one tip a former goalie gave me is to always use your backup stick for warm –up. Contrary, to what should happen, I think most us will agree you get a higher (or at least equal) "density" of zingers at that point as compared to the game situation, so you are cutting down on wear and tear on your game stick by probably 50%, possibly more.

HIH

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17 hours ago, Ghostender said:

OK – now I know why people do the “ @” - never knew that before. Perhaps you can’t teach an old dog new tricks, but you can at least let him know about them.:o

@Fullright  – it may have been me you were thinking about. One of the first posts I ever put on GCN was about my Sherwood 5030 that broke clean in the middle of the blade after about a half a dozen games – I was looking for input on possible repair

Ultimately, I got some Kevlar from a fellow I work with and had some epoxy resin, so I set about repairing it. I have pics but won’t take up bandwidth unless anyone really wants to see them.

The thumbnail summary is, the repair did work for a few games, but in my case, I guess I didn’t sand far enough out and feather out the epoxy well enough because the Kevlar delaminated from the blade about 4 or 5 inches from the original crack and the blade just broke in a different place.

The other (and probably larger to most people) issue was, by adding the Kevlar, I really increased the weight of the stick (foam core weigh next to nothing to start with, so any weight addition will be noticeable). I didn’t really care coming from a wood stick background, but I know a lot of people do.

I conclude by saying that this is why I won’t buy another foam-core stick: 6 or so games with a break is unacceptable – especially as I was playing with a low level group and no slap-shots. I use composite now because at least I get a 30 day warrantee – I figure after 30 days, it will have broken or will be there for a while.

Actually one tip a former goalie gave me is to always use your backup stick for warm –up. Contrary, to what should happen, I think most us will agree you get a higher (or at least equal) "density" of zingers at that point as compared to the game situation, so you are cutting down on wear and tear on your game stick by probably 50%, possibly more.

HIH

Been doing this for a long time.  I use my oldest, most broken down stick for warmups.  It really helps to extend the life of my main sticks.

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1 hour ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

Been doing this for a long time.  I use my oldest, most broken down stick for warmups.  It really helps to extend the life of my main sticks.

That's my plan 

I'll use this stick for warm ups

i also might change the length and mess with a shorter stick 

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18 hours ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

Been doing this for a long time.  I use my oldest, most broken down stick for warmups.  It really helps to extend the life of my main sticks.

Doing this too, even in training. Realy helps to keep main stick in shape. Lots of shots goes to sticks in warmup / training.  

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On 5/23/2017 at 1:01 AM, mik said:

Doing this too, even in training. Realy helps to keep main stick in shape. Lots of shots goes to sticks in warmup / training.  

I got 2 used 1S sticks coming with my used one. They were $20 ea... I will be set for warm up sticks for a long time!

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Worked like champ, I don't it's lasting forever.., but definitely couldn't tell a major difference today  

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It's not going to last forever, but it will limp you along for a while longer, and possibly be a good backup stick for a bit.

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4 hours ago, bunnyman666 said:

It's not going to last forever, but it will limp you along for a while longer, and possibly be a good backup stick for a bit.

Yes, exactly. I'll use this for warmups and shinny

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Stick lasted about 4 skates and then broke again in the same spot. This time it's worse than before. 

While the stick was in 1 repaired piece, it was awesome and I didn't notice the break. This tip is great in a pinch. I am going to repair it again and experiment with a shorter shaft like Pekka and Price use. 

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Any Suggestions on fixing the crack on the back side of the paddle on my Reactor 6000 (dressed as a 1s) with the Graphite and Epoxy mix?

IMG_0880.thumb.JPG.da23e68d6360571e5109d53d370bd89d.JPG

 

 

Edited by 73white

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On 6/22/2017 at 4:16 PM, 73white said:

Any Suggestions on fixing the crack on the back side of the paddle on my Reactor 6000 (dressed as a 1s) with the Graphite and Epoxy mix?

IMG_0880.thumb.JPG.da23e68d6360571e5109d53d370bd89d.JPG

 

 

I have yet to try this, myself; however- try a bit of 50 grit sand paper, then clean the area with diluted TSP (5:1 water to TSP; maybe 10:1). Prep the crack with my 1:1 epoxy and graphite powder; see instructions earlier in the thread.

 With 1" fibreglass tape, cut enough to cover the crack, wet it thoroughly with West Systems105 epoxy mixed in the correct pump ratios, put several layers of fibreglass tape over that in an "x" configuration, then tape it down with electrical tape. You want your sanding area at least 1" out from the crack. Think of this like stitches. 

I think this would limp you along, though not in the prettiest fashion, admirably. Don't hesitate to PM me if you have further questions.

I suggest TSP because it is not degrading to foam. I have not tried out TSP, but it cleans well but does not destroy foams when diluted. Hills has a great way to restore foam (with Gorilla glue) if it comes to...

I have done similar repairs to other items constructed similarly. I have repaired many bicycle frames made of composite.

Edited by bunnyman666

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On 6/23/2017 at 9:05 PM, bunnyman666 said:

I have yet to try this, myself; however- try a bit of 50 grit sand paper, then clean the area with diluted TSP (5:1 water to TSP; maybe 10:1). Prep the crack with my 1:1 epoxy and graphite powder; see instructions earlier in the thread.

 With 1" fibreglass tape, cut enough to cover the crack, wet it thoroughly with West Systems105 epoxy mixed in the correct pump ratios, put several layers of fibreglass tape over that in an "x" configuration, then tape it down with electrical tape. You want your sanding area at least 1" out from the crack. Think of this like stitches. 

I think this would limp you along, though not in the prettiest fashion, admirably. Don't hesitate to PM me if you have further questions.

I suggest TSP because it is not degrading to foam. I have not tried out TSP, but it cleans well but does not destroy foams when diluted. Hills has a great way to restore foam (with Gorilla glue) if it comes to...

I have done similar repairs to other items constructed similarly. I have repaired many bicycle frames made of composite.

Thanks for the advice but I ended up just pouring the mix over the crank, I left it for 48 hours and it worked quite well. I was surprised I could flex the stick with out it snapping. Sadly I never got to use the stick. I was talking about gear to another goalie at a christian hockey player camp and the goalie from the opposing "team"  over heard me mention the stick was broken. He came over, grabbed the stick and asked if it was the one I was talking about. I nodded and he snapped it over his leg, dropped it in the trash and left, my team was shocked lol.

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11 minutes ago, 73white said:

Thanks for the advice but I ended up just pouring the mix over the crank, I left it for 48 hours and it worked quite well. I was surprised I could flex the stick with out it snapping. Sadly I never got to use the stick. I was talking about gear to another goalie at a christian hockey player camp and the goalie from the opposing "team"  over heard me mention the stick was broken. He came over, grabbed the stick and asked if it was the one I was talking about. I nodded and he snapped it over his leg, dropped it in the trash and left, my team was shocked lol.

Seriously? WTF

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I don´t unerstand how he can even think he can do something like that >:( . It was yours sitck. Realy "like" those *@#""! 

I found it normal to use damaged or repaired sticks in practice. Not in pracitce with goalie coach, but I allways have one older ready on bench when I go to train with players or for warm up. Why damaging new stick on their sometimes crazy slap shots from close distance... With a repaired stick it is difficult/imposible to play a puck, but it is not something wanted from me at the moment.

As I know, lot of goalies who must buy their own sticks do it this. Even player get their damaged sticks fixed for training purposes.

Edited by mik

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8 hours ago, 73white said:

Thanks for the advice but I ended up just pouring the mix over the crank, I left it for 48 hours and it worked quite well. I was surprised I could flex the stick with out it snapping. Sadly I never got to use the stick. I was talking about gear to another goalie at a christian hockey player camp and the goalie from the opposing "team"  over heard me mention the stick was broken. He came over, grabbed the stick and asked if it was the one I was talking about. I nodded and he snapped it over his leg, dropped it in the trash and left, my team was shocked lol.

You should have beat the sh** out of that wanker! And he has the nerve to be in a Christian tournament?!? 

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