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On 1/21/2019 at 12:25 PM, BadAngle41 said:

I wanted to chime in on something a number of your are mentioning... fit of the steels in the holder. I've had Tydan in my S190s for almost 2 years now. First DLC, and now TIN coated. A few weeks ago I started to notice some play in the width of the holder which was allowing the steel to wiggle side to side. When I showed it to pretty much the only guy who sharpens my skates, he asked if i frequently remove steels. Said that he knows Step actually recommends not taking them out once in, as repeated replacement could stretch the holder itself, and wear on the portion of the trigger that actually hold the steel in place. I haven't been able to confirm that, but nor have I been able to deny it. The more wiggle I noticed, the more I took them out and put them back in... which seemed to make them wiggle more. So there may be some truth to it.

To resolve it...

  1. I took out the steel
  2. Applied a piece of clear sock tape to the side of the inside edge of the holder
  3. Pushed the steel back on (had to push pretty firmly)
  4. Trimmed off the excess tape with an X-Acto type blade.

It is definitely back to firm feel, no wiggle at all. Of course this is also likely stretching the holder some as well though. I'll get the micrometer out tonight to see how much variation there may be from the stock LS2G, LS3G, Tydan DLC, and Tydan TIN steels. It may literally be a situation of splitting hairs... but could also in turn give more credibility to the thought that repeated removal takes it toll on the holder itself.

I run 4-sets of Step Steel standard in my S190's this season, plus had 4 sets of LS3G rotating through all of last year, and 2 sets of LS3G the season before that... I use a freshly sharpened set of blades every time I step on the ice. That would easily be over 300 ice times in 3 seasons between summer/winter... with blades removed/replaced for all.

There is no play whatsoever in my Vertexx holders... I still need to squeeze tightly to get the trigger down and then solidly rotate the blade to get them out. Still takes a good push to lock them back in.

I would be interested to know what sort of variation you may have in the Tydans width...

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16 minutes ago, CG35 said:

I run 4-sets of Step Steel standard in my S190's this season, plus had 4 sets of LS3G rotating through all of last year, and 2 sets of LS3G the season before that... I use a freshly sharpened set of blades every time I step on the ice. That would easily be over 300 ice times in 3 seasons between summer/winter... with blades removed/replaced for all.

There is no play whatsoever in my Vertexx holders... I still need to squeeze tightly to get the trigger down and then solidly rotate the blade to get them out. Still takes a good push to lock them back in.

I would be interested to know what sort of variation you may have in the Tydans width...

I’ll measure the Tydans and get some number up. From what I understood the advisement from Step was largely in regard to the hook that engages the trigger. Wearing it down. The play I had was side to side... like it was stretched out width wise. I’ve only used OEM or Tydan... so having that much play where it would wobble from either is strange. But like I said, I’ll get figured up in both. 

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@CG35... I measured all 3 sets of steels at 5 places across the length of each steel, then averaged them... the results were very surprising...

Bauer LS3G: 3.01mm

Tydan DLC: 3.03mm

Tydan TIN: 2.88mm

So... NO stretch as I had suspected. The tape I had to put in is just taking up the void that would make the steel whole in the holder. Something I will send over to Tydan for more information about. 

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13 hours ago, mr_shifty1982 said:

I just wonder performance wise what would be better 3mm or 4. 

It's a feel and preference thing.

In general, 4mm is going to be a little more stable because there is more surface area.

The same cut on a 3mm is going to feel "sharper."  Smidge of weight savings too.

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22 hours ago, mr_shifty1982 said:

I just wonder performance wise what would be better 3mm or 4. 

9 hours ago, Chenner29 said:

The same cut on a 3mm is going to feel "sharper."  Smidge of weight savings too.

The weight saving from 4mm to 3mm was really the biggest part I noticed. But contrary to what @Chenner29 said, I found I needed a deeper hollow on the 3mm compared to what I was using on 4mm. Which also makes the edges more susceptible to nicks from the posts. That's why I went w/ the DLC and TIN coatings... help hold the edge for longer.

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