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More POP off my Blocker - Rebuild


BadAngle41

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13 minutes ago, TheGoalNet said:

@BadAngle41 - Great work here! The 3/8" is a number that came up in discussions with Brian's. My blocker does NOT have a zipper, so I can't take it a part.

I figured as much. Assuming it's Lexan 9034, the material accounts for the majority of the weight of your blocker... and I'm calculating at the lower end of it's density given the specific gravity. 

Making goalie equipment is a lot like baking though. Combinations of materials, thicknesses, and ordered layering that are all built up to achieve a certain end product. Me swapping out the standard CCM plastic sheet for Lexan won't make it your blocker... but I will be able to isolate this change alone. Could be an inexpensive upgrade for someone looking to breath new life into their current blocker. 

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4 minutes ago, BadAngle41 said:

I figured as much. Assuming it's Lexan 9034, the material accounts for the majority of the weight of your blocker... and I'm calculating at the lower end of it's density given the specific gravity. 

Making goalie equipment is a lot like baking though. Combinations of materials, thicknesses, and ordered layering that are all built up to achieve a certain end product. Me swapping out the standard CCM plastic sheet for Lexan won't make it your blocker... but I will be able to isolate this change alone. Could be an inexpensive upgrade for someone looking to breath new life into their current blocker. 

Agreed. That's the beauty of keeping the zipper around.

I updated my last post, but I don't know if HRC is the right spec or not, but I believe you want the hardest / stiffest plastic possible this application

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1 hour ago, TheGoalNet said:

@BadAngle41 - Great work here! The 3/8" is a number that came up in discussions with Brian's. My blocker does NOT have a zipper, so I can't take it a part.

@Jonathon v right up your alley...

I am not sure the exact spec you need, I don't know if it's hardness, but you basically dont want the plastic to flex at all for this application

Thanks for letting me know about this and you might regret it because I have a question now 😂 so 3/8” is what you got and your blocker is only 1.98 pounds... so if the chart says lexan 3/8 weighs 1.92 pounds, the board makes up basically ALL the weight? Is that correct? Also does that even feel balanced to you?

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8 minutes ago, Jonathon v said:

Thanks for letting me know about this and you might regret it because I have a question now 😂 so 3/8” is what you got and your blocker is only 1.98 pounds... so if the chart says lexan 3/8 weighs 1.92 pounds, the board makes up basically ALL the weight? Is that correct? Also does that even feel balanced to you?

I saw the same thing when I went back to the 1.98 lbs value in the other thread. Please keep in mind my 1.92 lbs is an estimate, and that I'm assuming the use of Lexan 9034 (and not another variant) as well as the full 8 x 15 size. Knock it down to say 7.75 x 14.75... and you take off 2.4 oz. 

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@Jonathon v I just know a number that was discussed during a phone call. I can't see what size was actually used. At some point you are over analyzing this decision.

The blocker works well for me. I am very happy with it and don't have any complaints.I am not scientist, I don't get paid to do this, and I don't have the resources to Myth Busters and scientifically test every marketing claim.

I would not hesitate to tell anyone buying a Brian's to get this option. However, if you value weight over the trying the Lexan, then get a stock GNetik IV. That is supposed to be hotter then a Optik for rebounds.

Unfortunately, there are trade offs to every design and companies have different design philosophies. Brian's elects not to use a composite in their board. If you want hotter rebounds than is available at stock, you need to add Lexan.

I have a feeling that whichever path you go down... it's won't cost you a loss, have you make a team or not make a team, etc etc

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I'll get details up about how I measured, cut, and formed the Lexan later... but wanted to update the post with some information before I try it this evening...

My calcs on estimated weight were pretty accurate. Not having taken into account the material removed for the rounded corners, the data looks like this with the Actual Size being put into the blocker at 7.75" x 14" and not the 8" x 15" full blocker board as estimated.

image.png.5ba8f6ee273caf2eb43dc79b2c84746b.png

The plastic & light foam sandwich I removed from the blocker came in at .3750 lbs (6.0 oz)... so I'm only adding .1500 lbs (2.4 oz) when using a single sheet of 1/8" thick Lexan 9034. Total weight of the blocker is now 2.2750 lbs (2 lbs 4.4 oz.) It certain feels more solid but the questions are...

  1. Will it produce hotter rebounds?
  2. Is it thick enough to take the impact(s) and not crack?

If/when I go the route of introducing a second 1/8" thick piece of Lexan I will need to make room for it and will consequently be removing a piece of foam which comes in at 0.0438 lbs (0.7 oz.) So I'll be adding 1.0500 lbs (16.8 oz) of Lexan and removing .4188 lbs (6.7 oz) which yields a blocker with a total weight of 2.7563 lbs (2 lbs 12.1 oz.) which I can say when test fitting.. feels heavy.

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1 hour ago, BadAngle41 said:

I'll get details up about how I measured, cut, and formed the Lexan later... but wanted to update the post with some information before I try it this evening...

My calcs on estimated weight were pretty accurate. Not having taken into account the material removed for the rounded corners, the data looks like this with the Actual Size being put into the blocker at 7.75" x 14" and not the 8" x 15" full blocker board as estimated.

image.png.5ba8f6ee273caf2eb43dc79b2c84746b.png

The plastic & light foam sandwich I removed from the blocker came in at .3750 lbs (6.0 oz)... so I'm only adding .1500 lbs (2.4 oz) when using a single sheet of 1/8" thick Lexan 9034. Total weight of the blocker is now 2.2750 lbs (2 lbs 4.4 oz.) It certain feels more solid but the questions are...

  1. Will it produce hotter rebounds?
  2. Is it thick enough to take the impact(s) and not crack?

If/when I go the route of introducing a second 1/8" thick piece of Lexan I will need to make room for it and will consequently be removing a piece of foam which comes in at 0.0438 lbs (0.7 oz.) So I'll be adding 1.0500 lbs (16.8 oz) of Lexan and removing .4188 lbs (6.7 oz) which yields a blocker with a total weight of 2.7563 lbs (2 lbs 12.1 oz.) which I can say when test fitting.. feels heavy.

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Good info, that is definitely heavier than the GNetikIV. Kind of interesting when you put it all in perspective like this.

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2 skates down with the added 1/8" of Lexan 9034 and I can say that it does indeed improve the pop off my blocker when compared to the stock materials. I have another skate coming up on Sunday which will be against consistently stronger shooters than the previous 2 skates... so I'm hoping to get some decent shots at my blocker to see how it holds up to heavier shots.

I'd really want to hit up a Stick 'N Puck or something where I can swap out materials and just get shooters to rifle away at it, but games are about all I have on the horizon right now. Because it's really only games, at this point I'm hesitant to throw in the 2nd piece of Lexan at all as I did notice the weight when test fitting both sheets in my blocker. More to come...

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4 hours ago, BadAngle41 said:

2 skates down with the added 1/8" of Lexan 9034 and I can say that it does indeed improve the pop off my blocker when compared to the stock materials. I have another skate coming up on Sunday which will be against consistently stronger shooters than the previous 2 skates... so I'm hoping to get some decent shots at my blocker to see how it holds up to heavier shots.

I'd really want to hit up a Stick 'N Puck or something where I can swap out materials and just get shooters to rifle away at it, but games are about all I have on the horizon right now. Because it's really only games, at this point I'm hesitant to throw in the 2nd piece of Lexan at all as I did notice the weight when test fitting both sheets in my blocker. More to come...

Didn't you use a different piece of plastic before this? The Lexan is better than that?

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42 minutes ago, TheGoalNet said:

Didn't you use a different piece of plastic before this? The Lexan is better than that?

Yes...

On 5/7/2018 at 8:28 AM, BadAngle41 said:

Verdict on the KYDEX V @.125" Thickness: NOT WORTH THE ADDED MASS

In the small sample size of 4 games... I can't say that I noticed a significant difference in pucks popping off the blocker face this weekend. Admittedly I was also facing lower level shooters with generally slower shots so while it may not be a completely fair performance comparison, I can say that any additional distance I may have gotten from faster shots would largely have been negated by the added mass. Now given that I had already weighed the materials and knew it was heavier, I was probably more aware of the change than if I waited until afterwards, but you're going to feel the additional 160 grams. 

I do have KYDEX V @.080" thickness on the way, but I will be out of commission by the time it arrives so I will have to find a more scientific method of testing boards. Probably best to do anyway, and I will include the .125" thickness in the same testing.

Lexan 9034 is far better at the same .125" thickness... KYDEX V is more firm than OEM material... but doesn't even come close to the performance of Lexan. To top it off... Lexan is even slightly lighter...

KYDEX V       @ .125" Thick .5909 lbs

Lexan 9034  @.125" Thick  .5250 lbs.

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37 minutes ago, Max27 said:

ive found my greiss blocker gives crazy soft rebounds. Would factory mad or dave wilcox be someone to talk to about a mod like this? I would like to try this very much but i am NOT comfortable with opening up my blocker

I don't blame you... luckily I just unzip. You could ask either... not sure of their willingness to do it... or the charge. 

I can say I picked up a piece up off of Amazon for ~$10 shipped. 12"x24"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074N9YZD6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just used a Dremel to cut it to shape and polish the edges... then a heat gun to form it to shape. I'll post pictures this weekend for anyone who is interested in giving it a try as well.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/8/2019 at 1:34 PM, BadAngle41 said:

I don't blame you... luckily I just unzip.

Raise your hand if you wish all of life's problems could be handled this way.

My new Kenesky blocker has a solid sheet of plastic on top of the board.  I'll try to find out what thickness and type and report back.  It feels very good in terms of damage potential (as in, dudes crashing my crease) - not to mention stiffness and rebound potential. Reminds me of the Bauer 1X/1S/2S in that regard

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10 hours ago, TheGoalNet said:

@BadAngle41  - Still liking the lexan?

Also, with these numbers, this is purely weight addition? Or are you removing any pieces to reduce the weight compared to stock before you add the Lexan?

KYDEX V       @ .125" Thick .5909 lbs

Lexan 9034  @.125" Thick  .5250 lbs. 

I've really liked it... noticeably more pop off the blocker. I did remove the stock plastic sheet (which also had thin foam laminated to it) which weighed o at 6.0oz. So when I took it out and put in the 1/8" thick piece of Lexan 9034 (weighing in at 8.4oz) it netted an increase of 2.4oz overall. 

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Just to be clear, the Lexan is directly under the Clarino layer of your blocker, correct?  No foam padding or anything to protect it?

Nevermind, just looked at the pics again.  I would be interested in hearing more about the fabrication process as I'm totally down to try this on my Optik.

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1 hour ago, Puckstopper said:

Just to be clear, the Lexan is directly under the Clarino layer of your blocker, correct?  No foam padding or anything to protect it?

Nevermind, just looked at the pics again.  I would be interested in hearing more about the fabrication process as I'm totally down to try this on my Optik.

Optik doesn't have a Zipper... The blocker is also HD foam fused onto LD foam. So any added plastic will be thicker than the original board. You will need to cut some of the stock board off.

You will have some challenges there

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@Puckstopper... I've been meaning to throw the how to on this up. To @TheGoalNet's point... if you have a one piece blocker or no zipper... you experience will differ from mine... but he's the general idea...

I started off w/ my Koho 589 blocker, 2 pieces of Lexan 9034 1/8" x 12" x 24" purchased though Amazon (~$9USD per sheet +Shipping) , my micrometer (to measure thicknesses), and while my original plan was to use tin snips to cut the material, I ended up using a Dremel to cut and polish the edges. Worked out far better.

IMG_0938.thumb.JPG.15c8e72119b3f1a7ee537c174e1ddf54.JPG

Opening up the blocker you'll see...

  1. A plastic board (with a thin foam layer laminated to the front of it)
  2. An LD foam (black)
  3. HD foam w/ LD foam backing (white.)

IMG_0939.thumb.JPG.cfd13a2545b77e5885ffb55166127c46.JPG+

As you can see from the pictures below, the stock plastic is pretty well dented and beat up. Keep in mind this was after ~4 months of use after a refurb on it by FactoryMad over the summer.

Front

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Back

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Side View

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The delineation on the white foam sandwich between HD/LD is easier to see in person but I marked it up for ease below...

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As I said before... I cut the Lexan with a Dremel and polished the edges to avoid sharp corners. Below are the results after cutting. You'll notice it doesn't exactly lie well on the HD/LD sandwich... while you could just slap it in... best to heat form it. So out comes the head gun and some clamps.

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I heated only where the bend needed to occur... back and forth... both sides trying to work the material evenly. I marked lines on the Lexan (seen better a few images down when referring to trimming) for the heating zone so i could pick up and work both sides knowing I was heating up where I should be.

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Clamp it up to the HD/LD sandwich...

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After letting the material cool down for 10 min or so I removed the clamps to confirm the shape had been transferred to the Lexan.

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Once I had the bends... I marked up the edges where I need to do some final trimming for a perfect fit. Back to the Dremel.

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Did the same process for piece #2 (although I have since decided to not use it) and you have yourself Lexan 9034 blocker boards.

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When installing it in the blocker...

  1. HD/LD sandwich
  2. LD Black foam
  3. Lexan (So complete removal of the stock plastic.)

IMG_0984.thumb.JPG.9643f520f2fc715298cc3cbf4e80a0b3.JPG

For all of you putting your equipment on a diet... weights are below...

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* FactoryMAD modified back of hand padding for tight fit.

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42 minutes ago, Puckstopper said:

So far I don't see anything I can't handle/don't have the tools for.  What attachment were you using on your Dremel and how many RPM?

To cut I used a EZ456 EZ Lock™ 1-1/2" Cut-Off Wheel @ 15,000 RPMs.

To polish the edges I used 428 3/4" Carbon Steel Brush @ 15,000 RPMs.

xEZ456_15_Metal_Web,282,29.jpg.pagespeed.ic.CAlvPuIzpg.webpxDremel_Rotary_Tool_Accessory_428_,28EN,29,284,29.jpg.pagespeed.ic.yrJ_G8jQSU.webp

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