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Here's one picture from an ongoing project to show you what's inside of catcher and how are things aligned from the factory.

IMG_20210326_200521_9x12.thumb.jpg.3cdfdd9f9135c0fe8a821eff4cd675fd.jpg

This Vaughn isn't really a good example as there are multiple layers of different shaped plastics. And what's worse those layers are not aligned to each other. The top jenpro layer on the palm has insewn carbon sheets which do align pretty well on the felt that has insewn carbon on the fingers (visible black) and straight slice on break line (4 holes in line on that). And if I remember right also the thumb area has that thin carbon sheet there. The white main plastic is on top of the felt for pictorial reason, it is between jenpro and felt normally.

The white plastic isn't even close to the break line so the break is more defined by finger plate and that straight plate in between them. The palm area was kind of awkward feeling because there is no actual sharp break but it's more of bending where ever it wants and follows the hand position and angle.

As the white plastic is cracked it needs to be replaced anyway so what I'm gonna change is the break are lining. This picture is from the outside and 180 degrees around but you should see the difference here. Also in this picture you can see the old break lining from the folds on the jenpro. I don't know what was desginers idea on having the break line to turn a little going towards right edge on the picture. If you take a long hinge, open it and try to bend it, it propably won't do. Then close it and you can bend it easily but after that you propably can't open it anymore.

So the more in line the hinge on break line is the better. And with only thin jenpro layer this isn't that significant but then you have to add that felt, some other padding and one layer fabric to inside of the glove and then it is going to matter more.   

IMG_20210327_174917_8x6.jpg.85a5046efe75383e870945f99d798975.jpg

This same lining issue is there in the CCM gloves if you look the pictures. And the "crushing plastic" -method is to correct this issue there.

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On 3/26/2021 at 2:57 PM, ArdeFIN said:

Changing the plastics inside you can change the break line. The plastics are the only solid thing that defines the break line.

Then when trying to change the break you have to fight the jenpro that is gotten used to. Padding like felt isn't any problem.

How the attempted new break line, with new angle and/or position will work with the glove as a whole is a question of it's own.

To do this you basically have to make atleast new plastics, maybe new set of holes for the lacing and what else to make it work.

I've made some smallish break modifications with almost all of the gloves I've refurbished. Some were a must to make the glove work better, some were just for doing it and trying how it would work.

So, basically what I said holds true.  Unless you're willing to completely disassemble your glove, source new plastics, and rebuild a custom Franken-glove it's not practical to change the break.    I tinker with my gear quite a bit, but nothing on your level my friend.   I promise you, that for most of us, what you're suggesting is almost as far out of reach as telling a Neanderthal to start his cooking fire with a Bic lighter.   The basic concept registers, but the skills, tools and experience just aren't there.

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4 hours ago, Puckstopper said:

So, basically what I said holds true.  Unless you're willing to completely disassemble your glove, source new plastics, and rebuild a custom Franken-glove it's not practical to change the break.    I tinker with my gear quite a bit, but nothing on your level my friend.   I promise you, that for most of us, what you're suggesting is almost as far out of reach as telling a Neanderthal to start his cooking fire with a Bic lighter.   The basic concept registers, but the skills, tools and experience just aren't there.

Yes. And with my skillset and machinery and knowledge that I have I'm not gonna try it out. Closest to changing the break is when I make a new plastic to replace the worn out one. And even then I try to get the most of the break the glove was designed to.

What I wrote was more to point out that it is possible and then I tried to write down some of the aspects you have to realize to make it work.

Now after writing this down I just might go for a tryout some day with some glove that is not working at all in starting point. Just to see if it really is possible. Changing closure from "fingers to thumb" to "fingers to base of thumb" would then be on the list.

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On 3/28/2021 at 10:37 AM, ArdeFIN said:

Here's one picture from an ongoing project to show you what's inside of catcher and how are things aligned from the factory.

IMG_20210326_200521_9x12.thumb.jpg.3cdfdd9f9135c0fe8a821eff4cd675fd.jpg

This Vaughn isn't really a good example as there are multiple layers of different shaped plastics. And what's worse those layers are not aligned to each other. The top jenpro layer on the palm has insewn carbon sheets which do align pretty well on the felt that has insewn carbon on the fingers (visible black) and straight slice on break line (4 holes in line on that). And if I remember right also the thumb area has that thin carbon sheet there. The white main plastic is on top of the felt for pictorial reason, it is between jenpro and felt normally.

The white plastic isn't even close to the break line so the break is more defined by finger plate and that straight plate in between them. The palm area was kind of awkward feeling because there is no actual sharp break but it's more of bending where ever it wants and follows the hand position and angle.

As the white plastic is cracked it needs to be replaced anyway so what I'm gonna change is the break are lining. This picture is from the outside and 180 degrees around but you should see the difference here. Also in this picture you can see the old break lining from the folds on the jenpro. I don't know what was desginers idea on having the break line to turn a little going towards right edge on the picture. If you take a long hinge, open it and try to bend it, it propably won't do. Then close it and you can bend it easily but after that you propably can't open it anymore.

So the more in line the hinge on break line is the better. And with only thin jenpro layer this isn't that significant but then you have to add that felt, some other padding and one layer fabric to inside of the glove and then it is going to matter more.   

IMG_20210327_174917_8x6.jpg.85a5046efe75383e870945f99d798975.jpg

This same lining issue is there in the CCM gloves if you look the pictures. And the "crushing plastic" -method is to correct this issue there.

This is great post, thanks!

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In addition to the angle between the palm and thumb, the angle between the thumb and wrist also plays a significant role. and it is also different. the smaller (in degrees) the angle between the palm and the thumb, the smaller the angle between the thumb and the wrist

as much as I like the 590 break, it's just uncomfortable for me to hold my thumb 90 degrees to the wrist

IMG_1186.JPG.70fb39ebdf5be38b05664ed93bfa8233.jpg

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I’m probably a bit late to this but I noticed something odd the other day. The Gnetik IV looks and feels an awful lot like a better built 590. After using it on the ice last night I can confirm it is very much a 590 that doesn’t feel chunky and that closes super easily. 

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On 3/30/2021 at 10:41 AM, ThatCarGuy said:

I’m probably a bit late to this but I noticed something odd the other day. The Gnetik IV looks and feels an awful lot like a better built 590. After using it on the ice last night I can confirm it is very much a 590 that doesn’t feel chunky and that closes super easily. 

Interesting, because I thought it felt pretty close to a Vaughn break.   Realistically it's probably somewhere between the two and it's still the best feeling glove I've ever seen in terms of how something felt right off the truck.  

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