True 12.2 - 580 repair

[johncho]

Finally found some time to work on this a bit more.

I used a heat gun to shape back the plastic a bit more into a graceful curve.

I tried to add 3D0 by laying it on top and sewing it but it was too thick even with a few attempts at it.

So I ended up removing the existing white foam and replacing it with a slightly thicker EVA foam, removing the stitching to open a pocket and adding a smaller piece of 3D0 there. Not having an industrial sewing machine that could go through plastic limited my choices unfortunately but the new added protection covers most of my hand fortunately.

I also was able to stuff a bit of the Eva foam into the hinge along with the hard plastic that was there.

Sewing Jenpro is next, as well as figuring out what to do with the plastic as no one seems to have any replacements. 

 

[ArdeFIN]

D30 is as far as I know used always in the "front line" towards puck. It hardens, spreads and dissipates energy. If you want to add soft foam to get the impact out you need to add that behind the plastic/D3O and next to hand in this case. Soft foam works only with some material that spreads the pointy impact of the puck to it. Thus why the felt-tentmattress is the backing there.

The shape of the plastic looks excellent to say. But that said you'll only find out the real truth when you get the glove back together. Then you see if the plastic is how it should be.

Is the plastic in the same position as it was originally?

Checked back and yes it looks good. Keep going on.

 

Edited January 5 by ArdeFIN

[johncho]

@ArdeFIN So there is a that 4mm added to the back of the 3D0, but also the felt padding behind is still there. So I believe it will be okay, the existing white foam was like 2mm and crushed for the most part, so just by replacing it with the EVA foam is an improvement. I'll have someone shoot puck gradually harder and harder with my hand in it once it's done before I use it in a game. Worst case I can take it apart again, and replace it all with a 10mm EVA foam. But your comments about how the 3D0 needs something behind confirms my suspicions that by it alone it does nothing, I got these sheets out of wrist guards which seem to not do much in my rudimentary testing because it doesn't have anything to absorb the energy further behind these sheets.

My Jenpro arrived, but my holidays have ended, but with renewed desire I hope to forge on. My kid is about to outgrow out of Intermediate sizing gloves so he will be stealing one of my gloves soon so good timing.

Edited January 6 by johncho

[johncho]

I’m stitching.

Was kinda impossible to go through two layers of Jenpro so I used an awl with spacings. It worked extremely well. I used some tape to tack down the two pieces as I sewed.

I decided to double back on the stitch for extra sturdiness. I will add some glue after between the layers.

Piping is going to be tough.

 

 

[johncho]

Not happy with the piping, so I may fix that post. But I do want to see how the glove is after I assemble for the first time as I may need to redo more things. I think I will need help from someone with a machine for this one or I need to go much slower.

I am not 100% sure about how it all goes back but first I need to see if I can add some reinforcements to the plastics. 

 

[ser33]

great work I'm glad this topic was continued. I followed her

as for the thin foam in front of the plastic in the direction of the puck

I have serious doubts about its effectiveness as additional palm protection. rather, it protects the plastic itself and is used by all manufacturers on both the palm plastic and the thumb/cuff plastic

and even on the blocker where Jenpro is simply sewn/glued to the wrong side

from my experience adding D30 I agree with ArdeFIN. that's exactly how it works. When I added Vaughn D30 from the old CCM to my converted glove since it was on it behind the Jenpro before the plastic, I didn't feel any extra protection. but hot rebounds appeared when the puck hit the palm

Bauer also used his Poron XRD foam in front of the plastic

and welcome to the hand sewing club!))

Edited January 9 by ser33

[ArdeFIN]

I've done a hand stiching once to the blocker front sheet where I would've had to dismantle a lot to fix some 50mm of seam.

I had the original sewing holes so that helped a lot to start with.

I first did a row (black lines in pic) of above loop, under loop, above, under. Then I returned the same path (light blue on pic) but on the opposite order to make a sewing that looks like machine made. 

I ended the sew by going back and forth a few loops repeatedly until I couldn't push the needle through anymore.

You could use this method for the binding atleast.

And don't waste any glue to the jenpro pieces. It won't hold on the top side, actually no glue holds there. And if your sewing is as good as it looks, it'll hold the pieces together very well.

For the added piece, I would've done it upside down compared to your job, put the edge of the new piece over the old and sew on the edge of the piece. But you don't have to change that, just I would suggest you to sew that edge of the jenpro to keep it tight.

Edited January 10 by ArdeFIN

[johncho]

As for sewing everything back together with nylon lacing, where do I start?

[ArdeFIN]

First in thumb side plastic and filling, thumb plastic on top, then lace the 3 holes that "hold" thumb in place. The one in the middle is a tough one but don't cut the lace until you have all holes laced, then tighten and then cut.

Next is the internal lace from thumb to middle and last the finger side. Don't know how the True glove is laced here but general instruction.

Then last one is the perimeter, you can start from either end of it, I usually go from thumb to boot.

Remember to refer to pictures before so that you get all the lacing done right. This is the chance to f**k up the closure and all. I just used some hours to settle a Eflex5 glove where I had one lace hole missing and it just didn't work right. But eventually I got it done the way it should be and now it is a buttery one.

 

[johncho]

On 1/13/2025 at 4:54 PM, ArdeFIN said:

First in thumb side plastic and filling, thumb plastic on top, then lace the 3 holes that "hold" thumb in place. The one in the middle is a tough one but don't cut the lace until you have all holes laced, then tighten and then cut.

Next is the internal lace from thumb to middle and last the finger side. Don't know how the True glove is laced here but general instruction.

Then last one is the perimeter, you can start from either end of it, I usually go from thumb to boot.

Remember to refer to pictures before so that you get all the lacing done right. This is the chance to f**k up the closure and all. I just used some hours to settle a Eflex5 glove where I had one lace hole missing and it just didn't work right. But eventually I got it done the way it should be and now it is a buttery one.

 

I tried forming Kydex sheet and it seemed to work well. It was easy to drill through and so I will add it into the glove as to protect somewhat the plastic. 

Thank you for which to do first, I looked at my reference photo and did the thumb first just like how it was, middle was tough as you said because you need to backtrack with the lacing. I had to redo it once too because there’s thumb plastic wasn’t on properly.

I got the bottom row of the palm plastic sewn in. Then I had to take it off because there’s like a floating cuff piece that needed to be sewn in as well. 

So far it’s been a 3 steps forward, 2 steps back ordeal but I’m learning a lot as I go.

There’s a couple of holes on the cuff near the back that I have no clue where it goes but I’ll figure that out once my lacings go near there I guess. It’s starting to look like a glove again if you squint hard enough.

[johncho]

By golly, I did it (minus the webbing).

It feels like a tank and reminds me of my old Eflex3 with the Practice palm.

I ended up not attaching the T at the back, I’ll float it a little bit to see how that feels once I have the skate lace webbing done.

[ser33]

great work!

[indykrap]

Looks amazing! Nicely done.

Just curious - I'm thinking of getting an inexpensive/busted glove to take apart and learn how it all fits together. Would you suggest a True/CCM/Reebok as a good start?

[johncho]

2 hours ago, indykrap said:

Looks amazing! Nicely done.

Just curious - I'm thinking of getting an inexpensive/busted glove to take apart and learn how it all fits together. Would you suggest a True/CCM/Reebok as a good start?

You know what's crazy is that after doing this one, I looked at my Warrior and my Bauer and noted how similar they all are (as well as the small differences).

I would get the cheapest one that is in the best condition, so CCM and Reebok are good choices, especially because there's a lot of spare parts around. Warriors are poor choices I guess because of the lack of perimeter binding, so I guess you'd have to do the perimeter fixes first and then stuff everything in and then lace. If you're curious about a specific break, I would get that one like I did with the 580.

I am willing to help you with all I found out.