Replacing Blocker Board

[indykrap]

Hey all,

Looking for suggestions on replacing a blocker board on a True 12.2. I've seen the posts here from guys using Lexan - how's that holding up?

Would a thicker board (1/8"?) give hotter rebounds? This one seems to be between 1/16" and 1/32".

Looking online I've seen a few pre-made options, but I'm somewhat uncertain as it's just listed as "plastic" except the GoalieParts one:

Replacement of New Blocker Plastic Insert – Fix My Gear by SGT Sports Ltd.

Goalie Blocker - Replacement Plastic Shield – Mega's Hockey Shop

Goalie Blocker Board Replacement Plastic - GoalieParts.com

[johncho]

I've always wondered what makes Bauer's board pop so hard, is it just the Curv material?

Would you be able to use this https://stores.octactical.com/curv-tactical-thermoplastic-composite-sheet/

My worry about using something so thick like that last link you sent is that the blocker would then be kinda heavy or off balanced making my hands slower. I have some Kydex sheets, but I don't know if that has good rebound quality.

Also, what about Carbon Fibre layups? You could get the thinnest board and then add on some carbon fibre on top
https://compositescanada.com/how-to-layup-carbon-fibre-on-a-mold/

Edited December 20, 2024 by johncho

[indykrap]

12 minutes ago, johncho said:

I've always wondered what makes Bauer's board pop so hard, is it just the Curv material?

Would you be able to use this https://stores.octactical.com/curv-tactical-thermoplastic-composite-sheet/

My worry about using something so thick like that last link you sent is that the blocker would then be kinda heavy or off balanced making my hands slower. I have some Kydex sheets, but I don't know if that has good rebound quality.

Also, what about Carbon Fibre layups? You could get the thinnest board and then add on some carbon fibre on top
https://compositescanada.com/how-to-layup-carbon-fibre-on-a-mold/

I had the same thought about the Curv - had no idea you could buy it like that though! I'll consider it. Curious if that's the big thing with Bauers or there's more to it.

I'm intrigued by the carbon fibre idea but I'll admit I'm looking for a lower-labor solution - a cut and swap out option, at the most. Thanks for the suggestion though.

[indykrap]

Update: Got a piece of Lexan from a person who did a similar project, so I'm going to trim, round, and mold it to fit. I'll see how this works but will also probably just get a normal replacement elsewhere just in case!

[ZeroGravitas]

FWIW, I believe one of the custom specs for the VX1 blocker is the addition of lexan to the blocker board. Not sure on thickness though, don't have the spec sheet in front of me

[ser33]

On 12/20/2024 at 6:10 PM, johncho said:

I've always wondered what makes Bauer's board pop so hard, is it just the Curv material?

Would you be able to use this https://stores.octactical.com/curv-tactical-thermoplastic-composite-sheet/

My worry about using something so thick like that last link you sent is that the blocker would then be kinda heavy or off balanced making my hands slower. I have some Kydex sheets, but I don't know if that has good rebound quality.

Also, what about Carbon Fibre layups? You could get the thinnest board and then add on some carbon fibre on top
https://compositescanada.com/how-to-layup-carbon-fibre-on-a-mold/

I strongly advise against using a carbon plate made using classical technology using resin as a binder. it gets destroyed when hit by a puck

The composites now used by all leading gear manufacturers have a different binder instead of resin, which makes them less brittle

hot rebound Bauer makes a number of design solutions and the Curv composite is certainly one of the most important among them

I myself have not used Lexan in blockers, although I have heard of its use. I have doubts about its durability considering how Lexan behaves on dangler

I used a thicker (2mm) PE sheet on my V3 blocker than the original one, which improved the rebound and increased its weight very slightly

If you have the opportunity to purchase the original Curv, it is better to use it. but for greater effectiveness it must be glued to the blocking board as Bauer himself does. simply attaching a sheet to the board will also work, but less effectively

[indykrap]

5 hours ago, ser33 said:

If you have the opportunity to purchase the original Curv, it is better to use it. but for greater effectiveness it must be glued to the blocking board as Bauer himself does. simply attaching a sheet to the board will also work, but less effectively

Someone else said something similar on FB when I posted about this. Is a potential issue that the plastic I have now is free floating?

I'm going to dabble with the Lexan but I also got in touch with Dave Wilcox and we'll see about him helping me out with this. I am thinking whatever new piece goes in should be glued down.

[ser33]

6 minutes ago, indykrap said:

Someone else said something similar on FB when I posted about this. Is a potential issue that the plastic I have now is free floating?

I'm going to dabble with the Lexan but I also got in touch with Dave Wilcox and we'll see about him helping me out with this. I am thinking whatever new piece goes in should be glued down.

free-floating plastic is a very common solution in older models. my V3, which I was talking about, is also a very old model, but I don’t see any problems in operating it with floating plastic

[GoalieUber]

We tried the lexan replacement in a True 12.2., used a heat gun to mold it to the shape of the foam.  The trimming and heat molding of the lexan went great. Had high hopes, but it did not last.  Shattered into a bunch of lexan shards within about a month.  do not recommend 

[indykrap]

1 hour ago, GoalieUber said:

We tried the lexan replacement in a True 12.2., used a heat gun to mold it to the shape of the foam.  The trimming and heat molding of the lexan went great. Had high hopes, but it did not last.  Shattered into a bunch of lexan shards within about a month.  do not recommend 

I got the same feedback from Dave about using it, so we ended up on a thicker board (1/8") of standard HDPE plastic. It's a little heavier but not something I'm losing sleep over. Going to give it a try sunday!

[creasecollector]

On 1/17/2025 at 10:54 AM, indykrap said:

I got the same feedback from Dave about using it, so we ended up on a thicker board (1/8") of standard HDPE plastic. It's a little heavier but not something I'm losing sleep over. Going to give it a try sunday!

HDPE is good for impact resistance and it is pretty strong. Let me know how the pucks react off of it.