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Brian’s Optik vs GNetik 4 blocker + Adding Lexan?


Jonathon v

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hey What’s up. I was really wondering what can I do to make my future blocker lighter. I am going to order an optik blocker over the gnetik 4 simply because it is so much lighter. TGN you are the king of making things custom so they are lighter and more creative. Also anyone else with any good ideas that would be great Anything you think would help a lot. I might get traditional strapping instead of the boa because the boa on the blocker makes my hand feel weird. Unless the boa is decently lighter than traditional. But can you (or any other people with good ideas) pls respond with anything at all I can do to make it lighter.  I was thinking about asking them to remove that extra thumb protection by the tip of the thumb (it was removed from the stock gnetik 4) and idk what else to do besides that anything at all you think could help? If anyone has any suggestions at all because I want the lightest blocker possible because I think that will help me make more saves. I already have the colors picked out and I’m doing it all in flat jenpro because I got my glove in all flat jenpro. Unless weave or matte is noticeably lighter I might do that to some of my blocker

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24 minutes ago, Jonathon v said:

hey What’s up. I was really wondering what can I do to make my future blocker lighter. I am going to order an optik blocker over the gnetik 4 simply because it is so much lighter. TGN you are the king of making things custom so they are lighter and more creative. Also anyone else with any good ideas that would be great Anything you think would help a lot. I might get traditional strapping instead of the boa because the boa on the blocker makes my hand feel weird. Unless the boa is decently lighter than traditional. But can you (or any other people with good ideas) pls respond with anything at all I can do to make it lighter.  I was thinking about asking them to remove that extra thumb protection by the tip of the thumb (it was removed from the stock gnetik 4) and idk what else to do besides that anything at all you think could help? If anyone has any suggestions at all because I want the lightest blocker possible because I think that will help me make more saves. I already have the colors picked out and I’m doing it all in flat jenpro because I got my glove in all flat jenpro. Unless weave or matte is noticeably lighter I might do that to some of my blocker

Removing the BOA will make it lighter, BOA is heavier than a traditional strap. 

You could also substitute the Jenpro for Denfender (cordura) material. That is lighter than Jenpro. The trade off for that material is that it looks different than any faux leather. It also can pucker on the blocker curve area. 

Out of curiosity, why are you so weight obsessed on the blocker specifically? 

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Changing the design to make the blocker less of a 'block' -- more like blockers of yore, with a rounded sidewall/thumb, less peripheral finger protection (or any!) and simply less padding overall.

I own three blockers currently: A Reebok Premier 3, a pro-return Vaughn V2 (never seen anything like it), and a Vaughn Ventus SLR Pro Carbon. Without a doubt, the Reebok is the most cumbersome, heavy, disconnected and disproportionately balanced device I have ever worn on my right hand. The Ventus SLR is miles ahead in terms of balance, feel and protection... But the winner is the V2 in terms of weight and balance. This is as close to a vintage blocker that you can make a modern blocker and not have broken fingers and such. I was, and still am, shocked with how little protection there is, but what protection exists is so well placed that all of the worst blocker scenarios are mostly covered. When I play higher-level games, I know I'm playing with fire a little bit, but I'm never been more than lightly bit by the occasional puck that dances up the stick or the poor-form blocker and stick turn-out that exposes the base of the thumb. If I get another puck off the fingertip or hurt my thumb in any way, I'm gonna retire this blocker. As I get older, I get more risk-averse. But my IQ is decreasing? What the f**k?!?...

I suggest speaking to a Brian's rep or the like about how to better balance the blocker rather than attempt to lighten it up. My P3 and SLR are probably similar in weight, but the Vaughn is clearly the easier one to work with. I gotta believe its more balance than anything.

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59 minutes ago, TheGoalNet said:

Removing the BOA will make it lighter, BOA is heavier than a traditional strap. 

You could also substitute the Jenpro for Denfender (cordura) material. That is lighter than Jenpro. The trade off for that material is that it looks different than any faux leather. It also can pucker on the blocker curve area. 

Out of curiosity, why are you so weight obsessed on the blocker specifically? 

I don’t know if it is because I’m holding a blocker and a stick in one hand and only a glove in the other or if it’s because I’m  full, but my glove hand is so much better than my blocker. My coach says it’s becahse I’m full right but I believe that when I drop and face a high shot I have to reach a lot and with a heavier blocker it will be harder. I have the 1s pro right now been using for about 6 months. It isn’t too heavy but a blocker much lighter will help a lot. I’m only 5 foot 7ish but I’m also 14 so I have room to grow. Also what do you mean when you said that it can pucker on the blocker curve area if I went with defender instead of jenpro?

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27 minutes ago, dualshowman said:

Changing the design to make the blocker less of a 'block' -- more like blockers of yore, with a rounded sidewall/thumb, less peripheral finger protection (or any!) and simply less padding overall.

I own three blockers currently: A Reebok Premier 3, a pro-return Vaughn V2 (never seen anything like it), and a Vaughn Ventus SLR Pro Carbon. Without a doubt, the Reebok is the most cumbersome, heavy, disconnected and disproportionately balanced device I have ever worn on my right hand. The Ventus SLR is miles ahead in terms of balance, feel and protection... But the winner is the V2 in terms of weight and balance. This is as close to a vintage blocker that you can make a modern blocker and not have broken fingers and such. I was, and still am, shocked with how little protection there is, but what protection exists is so well placed that all of the worst blocker scenarios are mostly covered. When I play higher-level games, I know I'm playing with fire a little bit, but I'm never been more than lightly bit by the occasional puck that dances up the stick or the poor-form blocker and stick turn-out that exposes the base of the thumb. If I get another puck off the fingertip or hurt my thumb in any way, I'm gonna retire this blocker. As I get older, I get more risk-averse. But my IQ is decreasing? What the f**k?!?...

I suggest speaking to a Brian's rep or the like about how to better balance the blocker rather than attempt to lighten it up. My P3 and SLR are probably similar in weight, but the Vaughn is clearly the easier one to work with. I gotta believe its more balance than anything.

What will better balancing the blocker do to stop more pucks?  I’m curious  because I’ve only owned 2 blockers, some old crummy blocker and the supreme 1s pro which I use currently. I’m not sure how I would rate the balance of the blocker because I have no idea how it is compared to other blockers!

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1 hour ago, TheGoalNet said:

Removing the BOA will make it lighter, BOA is heavier than a traditional strap. 

You could also substitute the Jenpro for Denfender (cordura) material. That is lighter than Jenpro. The trade off for that material is that it looks different than any faux leather. It also can pucker on the blocker curve area. 

Out of curiosity, why are you so weight obsessed on the blocker specifically? 

Also do you know how much lighter the traditional is than the boa? Like do you have the weights of each one? Also another reason I am obsessed with the weight of the blocker is because I already ordered an optik glove around 2-3 months ago and I think there isn’t much to change on a glove, and some stuff I could change could lose a lot of protection. I’m also not ordering a full set because I couldn’t afford that, so I don’t care about the leg pads weights

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1 hour ago, Jonathon v said:

What will better balancing the blocker do to stop more pucks?  I’m curious  because I’ve only owned 2 blockers, some old crummy blocker and the supreme 1s pro which I use currently. I’m not sure how I would rate the balance of the blocker because I have no idea how it is compared to other blockers!

My experience has been that a balanced glove and blocker feel essentially weightless. If I don’t perceive the weight of the equipment , then I must be reacting as if it isn’t there. If it’s not there, I must be moving quicker. If I move quicker, I must be stopping more pucks. If I’m stopping more pucks, why in the hell is there a puck in the net everytime I look back?

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10 hours ago, dualshowman said:

My experience has been that a balanced glove and blocker feel essentially weightless....

Agree totally with this comment – balance is way more important than weight to me (to a point of course).

As far as weight is concerned – this is a unicorn you will never catch. Are you going to re-tape your stick between every period because dry tape is lighter than wet? That’s the differences you are talking about. What about your stick – are you using the $300+ ultralight Bauer that is pretty well guaranteed to have a 10 game lifespan before it explodes? Also taking out stuff to making it lighter at the risk of reduced protection is ridiculous. (Coming from the guy who missed 6 weeks of hockey in his youth because the Cooper GM12 blocker had no protection at all in front of the fingers and the puck snuck under there. Nothing takes your appetite away like pulling your hand out of your blocker and seeing your little finger in the shape of a reverse squared off ‘U’).

You said you are 14 – time to start muscling up. Take your stick and blocker and weigh them. Whatever that weight is, double it and get yourself a barbell or some other weight equivalent (i.e. if the stick and blocker are 4 lbs., get an 8 lb. weight). For 15 minutes a day start moving that weight with your blocker arm in motions replicating blocker saves - high, low and everywhere else (do your glove side too to maintain balance). BTW - not at full speed - the weight will work just as well at slow speed, and at slow speed you can easily replicate the exact motions you need - including twisting your wrist to put the rebound where it does the least harm. See how that works for you  - lot cheaper and less risky than taking a seam ripper to your new blocker.

Oh, and by the way, blaming blocker side goals on being a fullright signals a lack of understanding of the goaltending process.

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59 minutes ago, Colander said:

Agree totally with this comment – balance is way more important than weight to me (to a point of course).

As far as weight is concerned – this is a unicorn you will never catch. Are you going to re-tape your stick between every period because dry tape is lighter than wet? That’s the differences you are talking about. What about your stick – are you using the $300+ ultralight Bauer that is pretty well guaranteed to have a 10 game lifespan before it explodes? Also taking out stuff to making it lighter at the risk of reduced protection is ridiculous. (Coming from the guy who missed 6 weeks of hockey in his youth because the Cooper GM12 blocker had no protection at all in front of the fingers and the puck snuck under there. Nothing takes your appetite away like pulling your hand out of your blocker and seeing your little finger in the shape of a reverse squared off ‘U’).

You said you are 14 – time to start muscling up. Take your stick and blocker and weigh them. Whatever that weight is, double it and get yourself a barbell or some other weight equivalent (i.e. if the stick and blocker are 4 lbs., get an 8 lb. weight). For 15 minutes a day start moving that weight with your blocker arm in motions replicating blocker saves - high, low and everywhere else (do your glove side too to maintain balance). BTW - not at full speed - the weight will work just as well at slow speed, and at slow speed you can easily replicate the exact motions you need - including twisting your wrist to put the rebound where it does the least harm. See how that works for you  - lot cheaper and less risky than taking a seam ripper to your new blocker.

Oh, and by the way, blaming blocker side goals on being a fullright signals a lack of understanding of the goaltending process.

Ok thanks for the advice. Also Im not blaming blocker side goals on being a full right. My blocker side is still very good, but my glove side is better. My coach just said that he thinks full right goalies tend to have stronger gloves

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19 hours ago, Jonathon v said:

Also do you know how much lighter the traditional is than the boa? Like do you have the weights of each one? Also another reason I am obsessed with the weight of the blocker is because I already ordered an optik glove around 2-3 months ago and I think there isn’t much to change on a glove, and some stuff I could change could lose a lot of protection. I’m also not ordering a full set because I couldn’t afford that, so I don’t care about the leg pads weights

The weight “penalty” for the BOA is only a few grams. Pretty nominal. 

When I got rid of all the Jenpro in favor of cordura going from stock Optik to TGN Optik is was only a savings of like .04 lbs. From memory, it’s like 1.48lbs to 1.52lbs. 

For refernce, my TGN Optik blocker was like 1.48 lbs. My TGN GNIV is like 1.98. I added Lexan which makes a the GNIV heavier and it’s 25% heavier than Optik. 

To summarize this... Optik blocker is about as light as it gets. Without compramising integrity, there’s no way you can save more than 2-3%

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I’d probably leave BOA off a blocker just because I take mine off too many times in a game to have it tight. Besides, once your glove is on how exactly do you tighten the BOA on the blocker? Definitely like it on the glove though. 

On a note more related to the topic, I’m not sure if I envy, or feel sorry for, those who can feel the difference between a few grams. 

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39 minutes ago, IPv6Freely said:

On a note more related to the topic, I’m not sure if I envy, or feel sorry for, those who can feel the difference between a few grams. 

i could understand noticing something like the weight of a composite from a wood, a g4 from like an old reebok, but i dont get really caring abt blocker weight lol

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Hey I’m going to order either and optik or a genetik 4 blocker and I was wondering does anyone know how much it weighs. Or if anyone has a gnetik 4 blocker without lexan and someone has one with it could I get the weight difference. Also how good does lexan work. I have been using a Bauer supreme 1s blocker for a long time and it hits rebounds out pretty far and I like the feel of it. Also if anyone has an optik blocker how do the rebounds go out without lexan 

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17 minutes ago, Jonathon v said:

Hey I’m going to order either and optik or a genetik 4 blocker and I was wondering does anyone know how much it weighs. Or if anyone has a gnetik 4 blocker without lexan and someone has one with it could I get the weight difference. Also how good does lexan work. I have been using a Bauer supreme 1s blocker for a long time and it hits rebounds out pretty far and I like the feel of it. Also if anyone has an optik blocker how do the rebounds go out without lexan 

This is based off my opinion, no real scientific method for testing this at home, haha...

P2 has the softest rebounds of anything I’ve tested. 

Optik is a solid improvement over P2 for rebound speed, but it doesn’t match the Lexan in my GnIV. 

GnIV with Lexan is a shade under 2LBs

I think Bauer is still the hottest, but the GnIV with Lexan works great. I think the stock Optik may be a noticeable step down down either of those choices in rebound speed. It’s not bad though. P2 was the only blocker that felt a bit slow to me. 

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Sorry to everyone who looks in here and sees all my stupid posts. But I was wondering if anyone knows the weight of a stock gnetik 4 and why the optik blocker is like 15-20% lighter. Only thing I can think of would be the 2 piece sidewall  has a harder material maybe I don’t know

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1 hour ago, Jonathon v said:

Sorry to everyone who looks in here and sees all my stupid posts. But I was wondering if anyone knows the weight of a stock gnetik 4 and why the optik blocker is like 15-20% lighter. Only thing I can think of would be the 2 piece sidewall  has a harder material maybe I don’t know

This question could have been a continuous thread with your other post. I merged them together.

Two main reasons for more weight.

1. Sidewall you already eluded to

2. Regardless of the Lexan, GNetik IV will have hotter rebounds. This was achieved with harder foams in the blocker face. Harder foams weight more than light foams.

The Optik blocker is only 1.5 lbs, adding anything to it will increase the weight because it's already so light. 15% on top of 1.5lbs is only .25 lbs more. Did you try both blockers on? Did the GNetik IV really feel too heavy for you?

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22 minutes ago, TheGoalNet said:

This question could have been a continuous thread with your other post. I merged them together.

Two main reasons for more weight.

1. Sidewall you already eluded to

2. Regardless of the Lexan, GNetik IV will have hotter rebounds. This was achieved with harder foams in the blocker face. Harder foams weight more than light foams.

The Optik blocker is only 1.5 lbs, adding anything to it will increase the weight because it's already so light. 15% on top of 1.5lbs is only .25 lbs more. Did you try both blockers on? Did the GNetik IV really feel too heavy for you?

I have only tried on the optik for a couple minutes one time l. It felt very nice. Every time I get my skates sharpened at jerrys which is once or twice a week, I check out the gnetik 4 blocker, it does not feel too heavy, but I feel it is not as balanced as the optik. What I am thinking of doing is optik with lexan because that will make rebounds that are hot but don’t go straight back to the D. It would also be slightly lighter than the gnetik 4 because of the one piece sidewall. My other thought is that I will get a gnetik 4 with a one piece sidewall (I just like 1 piece better) and lexan. That will take off a tiny bit of weight on the blocker but make the rebounds. Any thoughts on these options?

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2 hours ago, TheGoalNet said:

This is based off my opinion, no real scientific method for testing this at home, haha...

P2 has the softest rebounds of anything I’ve tested. 

Optik is a solid improvement over P2 for rebound speed, but it doesn’t match the Lexan in my GnIV. 

GnIV with Lexan is a shade under 2LBs

I think Bauer is still the hottest, but the GnIV with Lexan works great. I think the stock Optik may be a noticeable step down down either of those choices in rebound speed. It’s not bad though. P2 was the only blocker that felt a bit slow to me. 

Weird you say that...

I found my EF3 pro (more or less the same as P2) blocker shot rebounds off WAY hotter than the Optik. Anything that doesn't directly hit the back of my hand on the Optik blocker just dies. 

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9 hours ago, Aquilzz said:

Weird you say that...

I found my EF3 pro (more or less the same as P2) blocker shot rebounds off WAY hotter than the Optik. Anything that doesn't directly hit the back of my hand on the Optik blocker just dies. 

Exactly why I started this off by saying "no scientific method for testing this at home" haha

Shot quality, execution of the save, how the cold the puck is, etc etc could factor in the the blockers rebound. I find sliding and pad rebounds are much easier things to be confident in an opinion off.

To put it another way, this Lexan board is the clear winner over the last year. I personally think Optik was better than P2 though.

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45 minutes ago, TheGoalNet said:

Don’t have my 1S anymore. This is the benefit of the community. Other people can lend a hand

@Mroy31 - do you have a scale? 

Nope, also my 1S set now lives in Whistler BC. I've been meaning to get a scale though. Is 2S a close enough approximation? They switched up some of the materials on the outside like more jenpro, less nylon/cordura

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(Just saying I’m trying to get it like the 1s but I don’t want it to weight more than 1s) Alright so I got the colors. I’m getting gnetik 4 and having them do the optik graphics. I will likely put lexan in if it doesn’t make it weigh over 2 pounds which it might. I was wondering what do I ask them to do like how Anderson does his blockers because I’m gonna do that. What do I tell the guy at jerrys? Do I ask him to add extra padding like Craig Anderson. @TheGoalNet I was watching your stream and your probably not surprised it was me asking about the padding :) I want to get it as close to the 1s as possible so what did you ask them? I know Anderson gets 1 piece of extra padding and you get 2 so ima get 2. Anything else besides lexan to make it more like the 1s though?

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9 hours ago, Jonathon v said:

Hey tgn I kniw you got lexan in your blocker could you tell me the exact weight of that and your 1s please. Also anyone with a stock gnetik 4 do you know the weight? I know lexan helps with rebounds but how much. 

Weights I have are as follows.. not sure if that helps you w/ 1S... but changes we're too drastic to 2S...

Bauer 2S... 2lbs 2.1oz (968g)

Bauer 1X... 1lb 15.1oz (882g)

I'd add that the 1X definately felt lighter (more than the 86g difference) because of the lower palm position... but I didn't like how it played for me. My modified Koho 589 (EF1) blocker comes in at 2lbs 3.2oz (997g) which is on the heavier side... but likely closer to a GNetik IV w/ Lexan. I am using 2S Pro & BPM 150 sticks though... so the fact that they're so light  more than makes up for the additional weight on my hand and provides the more balanced feel that @Colander noted. 

On 1/4/2019 at 12:01 PM, Colander said:

Agree totally with this comment – balance is way more important than weight to me (to a point of course).

As far as weight is concerned – this is a unicorn you will never catch. Are you going to re-tape your stick between every period because dry tape is lighter than wet? That’s the differences you are talking about. What about your stick – are you using the $300+ ultralight Bauer that is pretty well guaranteed to have a 10 game lifespan before it explodes?

@Colander I would point to my experience w/ the 2S Pro at the thread below as contrary to the commonly held opinion of super light sticks breaking upon stepping onto the ice. True it doesn't have the same durability of an all wood or foam core necessarily... but there is always a balance between performance and durability. Also, I've used the BPM 150 which is at a lower price point and was quite surprised w/ the results thus far... more to come on it.

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