Blocker hand position

[stackem30]

Just reply in the thread you started, no need for a new one.

[Jonathon v]

59 minutes ago, stackem30 said:

Just reply in the thread you started, no need for a new one.

Ok

[Jonathon v]

18 hours ago, BadAngle41 said:

Boom... end the thread.

So I’m thinking about getting low hand position only because my stance isn’t super low, and if my hand is lower in the blocker my stick should be closer to the ice, does this make sense

[ThatCarGuy]

17 minutes ago, Jonathon v said:

So I’m thinking about getting low hand position only because my stance isn’t super low, and if my hand is lower in the blocker my stick should be closer to the ice, does this make sense

No, no it does not. by adjusting the blocker you are not moving your hand, just the board. Your hand is a set length and can not be extended with some velcro (sadly), the board however, can move.

[BadAngle41]

40 minutes ago, Jonathon v said:

So I’m thinking about getting low hand position only because my stance isn’t super low, and if my hand is lower in the blocker my stick should be closer to the ice, does this make sense

Short answer is sort of. I say that because to get your stick on the ice your hand position relative to your stance will be in the same location regardless. What the change in palm position on the blocker will do is when you lower then palm position, the blocker board will move up your arm. Typically you'd want that if you have a lower stance to help cover high.

One of the best ways I can explain is in terms of Bauer's line up and their stock retail setup...

Supreme line is typically a more blocking style... crouched less (thus boot break is super stiff) and the stock palm position is centered.

Vapor line on the other hand is typically worn by the "athletic" (and I hate using that phrase bc no matter what your style everyone is athletic) style who gets a deeper stance and needs that softer boot break... and their stock palm position is lowered... to help cover up higher a bit (as well as help with the typical frequent use of paddle down technique.

[coopaloop1234]

34 minutes ago, BadAngle41 said:

One of the best ways I can explain is in terms of Bauer's line up and their stock retail setup...

I think the CCM Premier (centered/bfly) vs Vaughn Velocity (lower/hybrid) comparison was always an easier way to describe it. But your example works as well.

[old but slow]

23 hours ago, CG35 said:

Nope... Warrior G4.

”Low” = High Hand/Low Board.

It’s the bottom strap of the two velcro removable outside palm anchors. (Fingers pointed up)

I can see how that’s confusing though based on the photo... 

“High” would pull your fingers toward the bottom of the board in a “set” position.

Does that make any sense..?

My Bad, misinterpreted the orientation of the blocker in the photo

[SaveByRichter35]

This was an interesting thread to catch up on.  In all of my custom setups, I never once thought about this is something to tinker with.

[A.YOUNGoalie13]

Anyone know how to fix the problem where your blocker points in towards your glove side?

Edited May 17, 2019 by A.YOUNGoalie13

[seagoal]

1 hour ago, A.YOUNGoalie13 said:

Anyone know how to fix the problem where your blocker points in towards your glove side?

My first thought is that stick looks too big and that's part of the problem.

Otherwise just proactively push your wrist forward and make a fist and point it down.

[Doc1200]

@AYOUNG- Bring your stick forward, don’t rest your blocker on your pad in your stance and I also agree that stick may be a bit big for you. 

Edited May 17, 2019 by Doc1200

[BadAngle41]

@A.YOUNGoalie13 how are you gripping your stick? I could see where if you are wrapping your whole hand around the shaft and not putting your index finger on the paddle you would get what we're seeing in the pictures.

[Colander]

Agree with @BadAngle41 -if you run your index finger down the paddle, not wrap it around the shaft, you will probably then find to keep the blade square to the shot your blocker will move into proper rotation. I also agree it might be worth doing some research in proper stick size to be sure you are in the right range (can't tell from these pics if it is truly an issue or not)

Edited May 17, 2019 by Colander

[A.YOUNGoalie13]

29 minutes ago, Colander said:

Agree with @BadAngle41 -if you run your index finger down the paddle, not wrap it around the shaft, you will probably then find to keep the blade square to the shot your blocker will move into proper rotation. I also agree it might be worth doing some research in proper stick size to be sure you are in the right range (can't tell from these pics if it is truly an issue or not)

Thanks I will try it with my index finger. I use a 23 inch paddle which is what my coach recommended

[coopaloop1234]

19 minutes ago, A.YOUNGoalie13 said:

Thanks I will try it with my index finger. I use a 23 inch paddle which is what my coach recommended

Was this a goalie coach? Or was this a normal coach?

I'm more than a foot taller than you and I only use a 25" paddle. The way your arm comes out to compensate for the added length of the paddle does weird things with your blocker and stick positioning. Your stick isn't centered, you're opening up a hole under your blocker arm, and your blocker face is doing whatever it wants. Getting a properly sized paddle will help alleviate a lot of these issues.

Though granted, you're little and will grow. So take that into account as well.

[seagoal]

Great points Coop.

@A.YOUNGoalie13 one good way to help figure out if your stick is too big is to look at how many chicken-wing goals you let in on the blocker side.

You know the ones between your ribs and elbow where you try to stop it by slamming your elbow into your body? If you let in a lot of those,  that hole could be too big due to a stick that's too big. Sometimes coaches who aren't goalie specific recommend the biggest of everything because they think it'll stop more pucks.  Sometimes that results in bad form or technique by us goalies. 

Just some thoughts.

You're looking good in your stance in those Kohos and your active glove hand looks great!

Edited May 17, 2019 by seagoal

[A.YOUNGoalie13]

54 minutes ago, coopaloop1234 said:

Was this a goalie coach? Or was this a normal coach?

I'm more than a foot taller than you and I only use a 25" paddle. The way your arm comes out to compensate for the added length of the paddle does weird things with your blocker and stick positioning. Your stick isn't centered, you're opening up a hole under your blocker arm, and your blocker face is doing whatever it wants. Getting a properly sized paddle will help alleviate a lot of these issues.

Though granted, you're little and will grow. So take that into account as well.

Yes it was a goalie coach

[A.YOUNGoalie13]

14 minutes ago, seagoal said:

Great points Coop.

@A.YOUNGoalie13 one good way to help figure out if your stick is too big is to look at how many chicken-wing goals you let in on the blocker side.

You know the ones between your ribs and elbow where you try to stop it by slamming your elbow into your body? If you let in a lot of those,  that hole could be too big due to a stick that's too big. Sometimes coaches who aren't goalie specific recommend the biggest of everything because they think it'll stop more pucks.  Sometimes that results in bad form or technique by us goalies. 

Just some thoughts.

You're looking good in your stance in those Kohos and your active glove hand looks great!

Thanks!!!

[coopaloop1234]

36 minutes ago, seagoal said:

Great points Coop.

@A.YOUNGoalie13 one good way to help figure out if your stick is too big is to look at how many chicken-wing goals you let in on the blocker side.

I mean, I have a properly sized stick and still let in quite a few of these goals.

Always seems to happen in lower divisions where guys show high blocker but somehow always go underneath.

[Colander]

But to @coopaloop1234's point, and as a specific example:

I am just over 5'-7". About 5 years ago I was using a 26" paddle (because I was dumb enough to listen to a few people who said no adult goalie should be using a stick under 26"). I was also noticing a high trend of these "chicken-wing" goals under the blocker. I had the suspicion that my stick could be the problem so, to keep myself from being influenced by a specific type of stick, I made myself a "stick template" and got set up in my stance with my blocker and glove positioned where they should be (check to both paddle height and lie). I marked my template and used it to size an off-the-shelf stick - which turned out to be 23.5" Warrior. Yeah, as an adult I use an intermediate stick. I also noticed the chicken-wing goals almost totally disappeared from the first game I played with the newly sized stick and on.

Be sure to size your gear to yourself and your play, not what the generic masses extol.

Edit: one final comment - as well as your height, your style of play will also have a large influence on your stick sizing

Edited May 18, 2019 by Colander

[RichMan]

Stick length/height should be more determined on 1- the five hole coverage and 2- the ramp-up effect of the puck, both in a b-fly position. In your stance, big or small stick, your elbows should still remain closer to the body. If anything, a shorter stick will force your blocker into your pads, a longer stick will be too much twig to move around.

Coming back to the initial subject of the page, the hand positioning. There were several references to the Warrior blocker within the thread. I have the senior GT. I set my board at high (fingers closer to the bottom of the board) to help with my paddle downs. To be quite frank, the seal of my paddle near the fingers is not flush and with a good push from the forward's stick, the puck could probably squeak under.

In saying that, what in your experiences has been the better blocker for paddle down aficionados like myself?

[A.YOUNGoalie13]

23 minutes ago, RichMan said:

Stick length/height should be more determined on 1- the five hole coverage and 2- the ramp-up effect of the puck, both in a b-fly position. In your stance, big or small stick, your elbows should still remain closer to the body. If anything, a shorter stick will force your blocker into your pads, a longer stick will be too much twig to move around.

Coming back to the initial subject of the page, the hand positioning. There were several references to the Warrior blocker within the thread. I have the senior GT. I set my board at high (fingers closer to the bottom of the board) to help with my paddle downs. To be quite frank, the seal of my paddle near the fingers is not flush and with a good push from the forward's stick, the puck could probably squeak under.

In saying that, what in your experiences has been the better blocker for paddle down aficionados like myself?

I agree except for that the traditional elbows in is no longer a necessity. Take a guy like Merzlikins or Bobrovsky. They don’t let in many chicken wing goals and especially Merzly, his elbows are pointed out. This is only okay though if your hands cover that space instead and you can control a rebound. (Quick puts his blocker in that space instead of his elbow and puts a lot of pucks in the wrong places because his arm is back) I have a stance where my blocker elbow is kind of out, the pictures of me above are from 3 years ago, but my elbow is kinda flared out and it works, just have to make more blocker saves

[RichMan]

22 minutes ago, A.YOUNGoalie13 said:

I agree except for that the traditional elbows in is no longer a necessity. Take a guy like Merzlikins or Bobrovsky. They don’t let in many chicken wing goals and especially Merzly, his elbows are pointed out. This is only okay though if your hands cover that space instead and you can control a rebound. (Quick puts his blocker in that space instead of his elbow and puts a lot of pucks in the wrong places because his arm is back) I have a stance where my blocker elbow is kind of out, the pictures of me above are from 3 years ago, but my elbow is kinda flared out and it works, just have to make more blocker saves

There is a difference between keeping your arms closed versus your hands back. Active forward hands will help keep the arms close all the while minimize interference. I focus on a hands projecting forward type of game, Finn style. Closes the gaps. 

[coopaloop1234]

On 3/13/2021 at 8:01 AM, RichMan said:

Coming back to the initial subject of the page, the hand positioning. There were several references to the Warrior blocker within the thread. I have the senior GT. I set my board at high (fingers closer to the bottom of the board) to help with my paddle downs. To be quite frank, the seal of my paddle near the fingers is not flush and with a good push from the forward's stick, the puck could probably squeak under.

In saying that, what in your experiences has been the better blocker for paddle down aficionados like myself?

I blame the finger protection on Warrior blockers for that. They have some of the bulkier finger protection and I've noticed it get in the way as well. Granted, I've taken hard shots off of them as well and haven't felt a thing. So a decent trade off.

I found my old velocity V5 blocker to be fantastic at the paddle down. Has the default lower hand position to help with getting that stick on the ice and the finger protection was never a hindrance.

[RichMan]

1 hour ago, coopaloop1234 said:

I blame the finger protection on Warrior blockers for that. They have some of the bulkier finger protection and I've noticed it get in the way as well. Granted, I've taken hard shots off of them as well and haven't felt a thing. So a decent trade off.

I found my old velocity V5 blocker to be fantastic at the paddle down. Has the default lower hand position to help with getting that stick on the ice and the finger protection was never a hindrance.

Agreed. The best paddledown blockers I remember ever using were the D&R Quantum and the TPS Xhale.