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Bauer 3mm blade, advice on sharping...


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3 hours ago, Korppi32 said:

It´s a personal preference.

Are you sure that the first sharpening was made correctly? Maybe there is still carbon on the edge of steel. 

Good question man.... any way to find out? They are a legit place that sharpens skates. 

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1/2" for me too... was at 5/8" on 4mm steel. I could probably go a hair sharper... 7/16" like @southpawtendy48 but typical ice conditions around me are too soft this time of year to use that much of edge and shuffle the way i like.

I will say too that after 3 skates in the 2X Pros with the LS5G steel it's definitely much better than first gen LS3G stuff. Not just the coating either (although it has helped edge retention ) but the steel quality itself feels better. That said, the TIN and DLC coated Tydans I had on my S190s are kept in my bag just in case. 

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41 minutes ago, mr_shifty1982 said:

Good question man.... any way to find out? They are a legit place that sharpens skates. 

Because steel is carbon coated first sharpening takes little bit longer. Find a bright lighted place and look at the bottom of the steel, do you see any black in edges? You can feel with your fingernail if it is sharpened. If it ok you shold try little deeper hollow. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I recently did a camp with Mitch Korn. When asked about sharpening, he suggests that with the way the game is played now, 1/2 is the shallowest cut any goalie should really be considering.

I've been settled on 3/8 for about a year now and I love it. However, because I play in the South, the ice at the rink has trouble overcoming the heat during the summer so I may occasionally move to a 7/16 on hot days

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if u want a edge , profile the skate away from a radius and to a flat in the middle.  Which holds more on the same surface a ball or a box? profile the skates..

profile , profile, profile

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3 hours ago, DL42 said:

if u want a edge , profile the skate away from a radius and to a flat in the middle.  Which holds more on the same surface a ball or a box? profile the skates..

profile , profile, profile

Goalie skates need to stay flat. Subtle curves at the toe and heel are fine and essential, but not like a player skate. So many hand sharpeners want to round goalie skates like a pair of player skates. Using a Sparx has all but prevented that for me. My blade profile remains as flat as the day it started. 

My goal is to NOT start a war with people who sharpen by hand, and I won’t engage if you try to argue. There are some who don’t over- round the ends on a goalie skate, but like how many shooters don’t know how to deal with a stand up goalie, many tend to rely upon muscle memory and sharpen a goal skate like a player skate. I would not let them sharpen my figure skates, either. So many times, the goal skate resembles a banana after awhile.

ANY skate needs to be profiled when new. Whilst Step are amongst the BEST out of the box for consistency, they could STILL benefit from a profiling. My goal is to eventually abandon the Sparx and get a Prosharp that not only has MANY more sharpening hollows, but can profile. I send customers who need better performance to a person who profiles with a Prosharp and my Sparx maintains it; however- profiling needs to be redone every 10 or so sharpening intervals. Some of those customers I will lose to the profiler as they will sell them a few sets of runners and do it by mail. These are the reasons why I will one day start selling runners and get a Prosharp. It doesn’t piss me off as I know the customer is getting what they need and at the moment, I can’t provide it. My goal is to make the player or goalie perform better with consistent edges, not just take their money.

So yes, @DL42- I agree 100% that a proper profile is BEST and ESSENTIAL for a goalie in particular. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys. This is my second set of bauer 3mm. The first one sharpening was total disaster... This second pair we found out how to sharp them as we did on 4mm blades. But as you can see there is missing a lot of blade at the beginning of a skate. Is it normal or we have to find out how to set the sharpening machine properly (Our local sharpening guy have mostly experience with 4mm blades). And second question is it time to buy another pair of blades? 😀

20190727_095124.jpg

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2 hours ago, Schkebla said:

Hi guys. This is my second set of bauer 3mm. The first one sharpening was total disaster... This second pair we found out how to sharp them as we did on 4mm blades. But as you can see there is missing a lot of blade at the beginning of a skate. Is it normal or we have to find out how to set the sharpening machine properly (Our local sharpening guy have mostly experience with 4mm blades). And second question is it time to buy another pair of blades? 😀

20190727_095124.jpg

The runners need replacement soon. There’s not lots of steel left at the front. Some sharpeners round round round the toes in particular. Get a pair of Tydan blades, as you’ll have more steel than Bauer’s runners. 

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On 7/27/2019 at 4:20 AM, Schkebla said:

Hi guys. This is my second set of bauer 3mm. The first one sharpening was total disaster... This second pair we found out how to sharp them as we did on 4mm blades. But as you can see there is missing a lot of blade at the beginning of a skate. Is it normal or we have to find out how to set the sharpening machine properly (Our local sharpening guy have mostly experience with 4mm blades). And second question is it time to buy another pair of blades? 😀

20190727_095124.jpg

That can be remedied  by a good profile for the time being but yes you are going to need new steel soon.

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33 minutes ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

That can be remedied  by a good profile for the time being but yes you are going to need new steel soon.

He’d be better to take that $30 for a profile and apply it to a pair of Tydan blades. Those runners are nearly done.

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33 minutes ago, Schkebla said:

Thank you for your advices. I wanted to buy bauer ls5 but those tydan looks good.

Bauer steel is so soft. It is soft for one purpose: to grind down quicker so you buy more steel. Pretty silly if you ask me...

If you want the black steel, I can hook you up with a guy who coats with a MUCH better coating that burrs MUCH less than the black coating Step and Tydan use. Let me know if you’re interested, I will give you his email address. You just have to make certain your sharpener knows NOT to side hone (“stone”) the sides of your steel. Fewer burrs=less steel lost in the sharpening process. It takes a RIDICULOUS number of passes to get a burr on my steels with Monty’s coating.

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