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Cage Paint


TheGoalNet

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So for testing if I like a red cage, this will get me thru a skate and was a fun project with a broken cage!!!

for any DIYers... look else where. The paint chipped just trying to stage it for a nice photo. This is the "industrial grade" paint too.

 

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3 minutes ago, TheGoalNet said:

So for testing if I like a red cage, this will get me thru a skate and was a fun project with a broken cage!!!

for any DIYers... look else where. The paint chipped just trying to stage it for a nice photo. This is the "industrial grade" paint too.

It's not the paint so much as the prep. Without something to really bite into  this will always happen, hence the reason sandblasting is a good option. Also why powdercoating is the go-to coating solution a it is baked on giving it a strong hard finish...

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6 minutes ago, Ghostender said:

It's not the paint so much as the prep. Without something to really bite into  this will always happen, hence the reason sandblasting is a good option. Also why powdercoating is the go-to coating solution a it is baked on giving it a strong hard finish...

If I like the color, I'll send the new cage out for powder coat 

out or curiosity, would sand blasting really make spray paint viable? I'm skeptical. With seeing how sensitive this is, I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. 

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No, I think you are correct : While s/b would give regular paint a better bite and certainly you wouldn't have the problem with it chipping off just due to the handing per your experience, I severely doubt any spray from a can will stand up well to puck impacts.

Edited by Ghostender
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1 hour ago, goalie said:

How about over stainless or chrome. What do you guys use as a base coat?

If you're asking about for painting, the same thing applies: just don't bother. Waste of time. If you want paint to adhere you'll need to sandblast. A stainless cage blasts easy, chrome is a real pain. But if you're already at the point of having a cage blasted, there's really no point in applying paint as the price difference is negligible while powder coating is a far superior finish for this application. 

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On 7/5/2017 at 10:28 PM, TheGoalNet said:

Do you remember what the general feedback was? I almost bought that. But it said removable, so I was thinking that would peel worse than normal paint 

Feedback was positive.  It didn't chip, but you could peel it off if you scratched off a bit and pulled on it.  Kind of like pulling glue off of plastic.

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  • 2 months later...

I painted a HM 30 waaaaaay back in the day. Terrible. Used a rattle can. I spent years re-sanding it and painting it white again.

It was a double bar Y Cooper HM 30 that I bought new when they were made and wore it forever playing ball hockey in the street.

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On 7/4/2017 at 10:20 PM, parebele said:

I don't think Scotchbrite is coarse enough. At least not enough to keep adhesion from flying pucks. And adhesion promoter will soften raw plastic and clear coat and the like, but I don't think it's enough for powdercoat. I've had good success at removing powdercoat using a wire wheel on a bench or hand grinder. Then you can scuff it with Scotchbrite and use an etch primer, then paint. I've only done that for display masks though. I don't think I'd risk using a painted one.

I do remember Curtis Joseph's Blues dog mask having a painted cage at the edges to blend in with the mask. And Grant Fuhr's buffalo skull mask had tan/brown around the edges of the cage as well. Then again, that's just light paint with an airbrush and not a total colour change.

$35 is around what they charge in the Toronto, Canada area.

Do you have a name of a shop in Toronto that will do it?

thanks

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On 7/5/2017 at 7:28 PM, TheGoalNet said:

Do you remember what the general feedback was? I almost bought that. But it said removable, so I was thinking that would peel worse than normal paint 

I think the fact that it has some flex in it might actually make it MORE durable, just because it won't flake. That, and it's much easier to just remove and re-do. 

Still not sure I'd use it, though. Maybe if I wanted something elaborate that powder coating couldn't do... 

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On 9/26/2017 at 2:59 PM, IPv6Freely said:

Was this paint on top of the powder coating, or what? Anyone know? It looks fantastic 

From what I recall that was on top of the powder coating and wasn't clear coated. And it's only on the edges so even if it was hit by a puck and chipped it wouldn't fly into his eyes, which is the main reason people don't paint cages. Frank Cipra did the paint so he would know for sure. And there's not a ton of paint on there so chipping it's not like the paint will chunk off. The mm thickness of paint using an airbrush is very small.

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4 hours ago, goalie said:

Do you have a name of a shop in Toronto that will do it?

thanks

Not off-hand. There's a few places that advertise on Kijiji. And any place that refinishes car/motorcycle rims will be able to do it. Carcone's does good work, although I've never used them for cages. I don't think there's much difference between powder coating places, like there is good/bad mechanics, painters, etc. Powdercoating is pretty straight forward.

I just quickly googled 'powder coating toronto' and got 7 different places so they're out there.

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12 hours ago, parebele said:

Not off-hand. There's a few places that advertise on Kijiji. And any place that refinishes car/motorcycle rims will be able to do it. Carcone's does good work, although I've never used them for cages. I don't think there's much difference between powder coating places, like there is good/bad mechanics, painters, etc. Powdercoating is pretty straight forward.

I just quickly googled 'powder coating toronto' and got 7 different places so they're out there.

Thanks I did that also. Thought someone actually did it in Toronto and had a name to save time calling around

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16 hours ago, parebele said:

From what I recall that was on top of the powder coating and wasn't clear coated. And it's only on the edges so even if it was hit by a puck and chipped it wouldn't fly into his eyes, which is the main reason people don't paint cages. Frank Cipra did the paint so he would know for sure. And there's not a ton of paint on there so chipping it's not like the paint will chunk off. The mm thickness of paint using an airbrush is very small.

Cool, thanks! And yeah, not doing it in the eye area makes sense ;)

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In my humble opinion, a painted cage isn't worth the trouble. I had stainless or chrome growing up and for my latest mask I opted for a painted white cage. Chipped almost immediately. As many have stated already, that's not indicative of the quality of work behind the painting necessarily, more of an issue with adhesion of paint to metal. Powder coating is simply a far superior finish than paint when it comes to impact resistance. For anyone who spent the extra few hundred on a titanium cage, it can be anodized.

Luckily for me there is a powder coater just around the corner and I'll be bringing this chipped up cage to him for sand blasting and include in his next batch of white.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

My kids play lacrosse. When you team order helmets, they can come with powder coated colors not available regularly. My son's one team uses a white helmet with an emerald green cage. It's factory (powder coat?), it's taking a beating and looks good still.

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There are videos online where people dye their lacrosse cages since you can't order just one with certain colors. Here's how they did it with alcohol ink:

 

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On 10/13/2017 at 10:30 AM, MTH said:

My kids play lacrosse. When you team order helmets, they can come with powder coated colors not available regularly. My son's one team uses a white helmet with an emerald green cage. It's factory (powder coat?), it's taking a beating and looks good still.

There are videos online where people dye their lacrosse cages since you can't order just one with certain colors. Here's how they did it with alcohol ink:

OK someone has to try this, and let us know if it works.

would solve the paint chips in the eye issue.

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  • 3 weeks later...

@TheGoalNet Sure!  

Basically what I did was start with a white powder coated base, prepped the base with a scuffing pad, masked off the white areas, and painted a black base and the blue on top of that with the airbrush, then was super careful with it till I got it clear powder coated lol.  

NOTE: Start with a WHITE powder coat base if you want any white on your cage.....my first attempt was a black base with white and blue paint on top, and the baking process for the clear powder coat toasted the white paint making it really yellowish.  No idea what it will do to other light colors but the blue and black paint seemed unphased by it.  I used Createx water based paints, I would assume solvent based paints would likely be even less phased by the baking process, but I don't know, so safe bet is to get the base done in the lightest color you plan on using.

I haven't had a chance to use the mask yet so we'll see how it holds up over time, but the clear powder coating feels strong and looks really good.  I tried to chip the first attempt a bit and it held up great, so I'm thinking it's gonna be as good as any powder coating, and the best option if you want to do something that requires some amount of painted artwork on it.

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