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Glove Re-Lacing

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Decided to relace my Vaughn V7 this afternoon. I’m pretty happy with how it looks but I’m not really sure that I’ll get a chance to test it out. I have it a little bit of a floating tee but you can’t really tell. 





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  • 5 months later...

Doing the pocket re-lacing with almost every glove that I refurbish I thought I should take a few pictures and write a short story about how I do it.

When you start and you have the pocket still laced, first take some pictures of the pocket, both sides etc. So you can check afterwards if it won't wokr out. Next you try to take those old laces out in one or two pieces so you can measure the needed lace. Add some length (4" or 10cm atleast, double if uncertain) to the measurement just to make it sure to be enough. Sometimes the old lace is worn that you just can't get it out without cutting to bits and pieces and it's not a big problem but you need to take a little extra length on the new lace.

Then you need the new lace, scissors, paracord needle will help, pliers maybe.

1. Select where to start the lacing and in the picture it is already done, push the end of the lace through an eyelet and make a basic single knot and pull the knot inside the glove.



2. Make rules for yourself! How will you go through the eyelets from or towards inside. After an eyelet will you under the lace or over, straight ahead or make it around the lace before forwarding. The choices are so many that it'll help you to make it consistent with certain simple rules. At this point it is very easy to try an lace one row to see how it goes. If it isn't approvable, redo with different rules.

I did this project with skate lace, it adds the flatness of the lace into the game. If needed for visual appearance it's easy to keep things flat with pulling the last bit lace flat between fingers (in picture) and then pull the rest of the lace through (eyelet). If still twisted take your time to pull in and out until flat. That is very difficult to fix afterwards so do it right in the first place. Or ignore the flatness. Nylon cord isn't problematic this way, but it'll work easier if you try to keep it from ketting very twisted.  


I got 330cm laces for this one which is about 100cm of extra work to do. Will save you a lot of time if you double up the lace and pull it through loops that way. Eyelets won't work with this trick unfortunately.


3. Follow the rules and repeat.

Here I used the following steps. From inside out through eyelet and under the lace to the next eyelet.

This T style goes when you have same amount of eyelets in the spine as loops for the pocket in the perimeter. In this glove there are 7 of both.

Here you also decide how many eyes you will have in the pocket net. Skate lace will yield to a tight webbing with only few eyes in a row while nylon cord would allow more eyes to the web. The we use to catch is quite a big thing so not very tight webbing is needed. Ofcourse the looser the lacing is the more it will give. But the puck is still quite big. 

The pattern is consistent and easy to follow and do. Skate lace is a more demanding than nylon cord.


Now we have first row or column ready and we need a new set of rules. Inside out through the loops and the same at loop of the perimeter.

Edited by ArdeFIN
Added picture of a basic knot
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4. Decicion made, I'll go from outside towards in with the webbing and at the perimeter loop forward only with out extra twisting or such.

Running the lace flat and around will give the aesthetic looks again.


5. Now at the perimeter side going straight through the next thing is to decide the other direction, you could make it go from inside out through the loops if you'd like but that will make a little if not at all visible change to anything. So for easy process I selected the same way as when coming towards perimeter.

One down and one up and again one down, looking good. Repeat the same process until ready! All the decicions are made now you just need to follow them.


6. Final! (foam inside for a white background)


7. The only new rule needed and in this glove and style used only once per side is the end looping.

I had two loops running all the way and at the end all the loops should be sort of tied together. Easy and simple solution to do it by aligning the loops over each other and lace through as one. The picture isn't very good but hopefully you get the idea. Actually I did this one in backwards direction by looking at the picture 🙈 But it looks sleek and will work properly.

One thing with skate lacing is that it usually is pretty loose after lacing and needs some tightening, it's not necessary in this project but it will look even more consistent and detailed. 


To repeat myself, this is how I do it for skate lace pocket and in this project only. This style of lacing is just one of many possibilities. Some manufacturers have their own style like Brians, which is quite a lot of different from this one and still it looks very much the same.

Hopefully some of you get the needed inspiration and get to do it yourself. Take your time and be patient when doing it. And remember that it is easily taken apart to redo. 

This one side of the pocket took me about 30 minutes to complete with photos and thinking a bit for this textorial part too. So with good preparation and everything at hand it'll be a swift job to do.

Mid lane in the double T has a few differencies from the sides but is a bit easier to do.


Edited by ArdeFIN
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4 hours ago, Smeds35 said:

Just relaced my glove last night luckily Ive done it so many times its ingrained into my memory banks but @ArdeFIN your tutorial is awesome! Happen to have a run through on the middle part of the tee? Its the only part I'm too scared to do.

Thanks. I don't have anything to publish yet for the middle part, and ATM I have no double T catchers to work on either. Funny as it is I have three catchers waiting but all are single T models. But I'll return here right when I get something ready.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, now I took the time to take some pictures and take apart my Simmons glove mid lane.

From the beginning, atleast two different ways to start. There is also gloves that have sort of two starting holes.  With those I suggest to take good pictures before taking it apart and copy the beginning  atleast. Or punch a new mid hole and go on. Yes, mid lane is usually if not always started from the lip and towrds boot. 

Still there are possibilities, this Simmons was done with "single cord" meaning there was a knot in the beginning and only one cord run through the mid lane. That is a bit more effort as the cord is very long in the beginning. And should any mistakes happen, fixing them requires a lot of dismantling.

So heres a few tip to the job, in the beginning....

You can use loop style 


Or once through


Then we are in the rules again. Decide how you want it and work regarding. In the picture above there is "CCM style" midlane in progress. It didn't work too well with my cord which is similar to gear cord but without wax so it's sloppy. Gear cord would support the mid lane to stay open and rigid.

So to change it a bit I use the "Varusteverstas" -style which is more simple yet very good alternative and easy to do.


Main difference between the two is that there is only one loop around when coming out from the hole. And again remember that it also makes difference whether you go forward and around or backward and around.

I made the run with inside out on the holes and forward around when changing the side. You can also do this without changing the cords side every second hole! In this method it's easiest to run the cord straight through and then continue with the next. Cord can be quite tight as there isn't much of a need for the cord to be loose.

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Then we get to the second cord. It goes through with the same ruleset as the first one but with the addition of crossing over the first cord, a new rule to remember.

Continuing from the previous here is the second cord done. The crossing over is very simple once around and for simple setup I went with forward and around here too. It doesn't do much for the aesthetic in this simple webbing just there has to be some lockdown when the cords go across each other. Looks simple and nice, and definitely can see if the puck is in.


Another one from the inside of the pocket.


Just a short return to the CCM style that was on the glove before.


There is a bit more to do with this style as there are a lot more around the cord points. But the rules apply all the way.


There was a picture of a completed webbing in the Simmons refurbish topic in case someone wants to go and see. I think there was one about the Simmons original webbing too, it was quite complicated so I allowed myself to go with these easier systems.

Edited by ArdeFIN
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13 hours ago, ArdeFIN said:

Затем переходим ко второму шнуру. Он проходит с тем же набором правил, что и первый, но с добавлением пересечения первого шнура, новое правило, которое следует запомнить.

Продолжая предыдущее, вот второй шнур готов. Пересечение очень просто один раз, и для простой настройки я пошел вперед и здесь тоже. Это не имеет большого значения для эстетики в этой простой лямке, просто должна быть некоторая блокировка, когда шнуры проходят через другие. Выглядит просто и красиво, и определенно видно, забита ли шайба.


Еще один изнутри кармана.


Просто краткое возвращение к прежнему стилю СКК.


С этим стилем можно сделать немного больше, так как вокруг точек шнура гораздо больше. Но правила действуют везде.


В теме ремонта Симмонса была полная картина на тот случай, если кто-то не захочет пойти и посмотреть. Я думаю, что была одна из оригинальных лямок SImmons, она была довольно сложной, поэтому я позволил себе использовать эти более простые системы.


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On 10/2/2020 at 9:41 AM, ser33 said:


Olkaa hyvä. (=You're welcome) ☺️

Thought I'd add a few pictures of a floating T here too. Someone was wondering how they should do the boot with floating T. Well it's just how nice you want it to look. Make a web as simple as possible, it's actually only the one seam between the sides that needs something else than following those rules you had.

Or, you might go with "single lace" around the whole pocket.

Begin as usual from either side, extend the lace in the boot area with a simple knot or what is preferred:

(I wouldn't suggest to use one lace for the whole job, that would make some 5 meters of lace...)


Follow the rules around the whole T 


If you'd see both sides at once you might notice the lace going sort of backwards on the other side. Only the last column at the lip end of T you have to a little time and copy the other side backwards. And done!


Did this one a while ago and didn't take any pictures while doing it but hopefully you get the idea from these pictures.

Skatelace is the ideal choice for a floating T as it has some give in itself added to webbing so the pocket will look pretty normal. But when a puck will enter with force the pocket will take the energy to flex and the puck is sort of swallowed deep into the pocket.

For me I don't see floating any better over the other choices but it's not unuseable either. Maybe it would be said that any well made pocket style will work if the glove itself works for you.

Edited by ArdeFIN
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  • 3 weeks later...


Thanks for the tutorial.  I redid my Simmons 995 with skate lace back in 2010 or 2011 using a guide from the GSBB.  By the time I got my 998 glove in 2015, I had a 3 year old and didn't want to take the time to do it again, so I paid Simmons a little extra to have it done.  It was more than worth it as I had no idea how to tackle the double T and they did a nice job.  Now in 2020, I just got set of Warrior R/GT2 senior gloves and I was excited it was going to come with skate lace.  Unfortunately, the lace job was less than desirable.  The mid lace was a tight spine and the sides were too tight and there was little visibility into the pocket.  Sometimes this is important to me for tracking a puck in some situations, so the instruction above gave me confidence to do a mid relacing and it came out satisfactory.  I ended up redoing the entire glove this week after the test run last weekend, and I'm going to give this a go on Sunday.  The Warrior glove lacing was a pain in the butt to remove.   










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13 hours ago, dreadlocked1 said:


Thanks for the tutorial.  I redid my Simmons 995 with skate lace back in 2010 or 2011 using a guide from the GSBB.  By the time I got my 998 glove in 2015, I had a 3 year old and didn't want to take the time to do it again, so I paid Simmons a little extra to have it done.  It was more than worth it as I had no idea how to tackle the double T and they did a nice job.  Now in 2020, I just got set of Warrior R/GT2 senior gloves and I was excited it was going to come with skate lace.  Unfortunately, the lace job was less than desirable.  The mid lace was a tight spine and the sides were too tight and there was little visibility into the pocket.  Sometimes this is important to me for tracking a puck in some situations, so the instruction above gave me confidence to do a mid relacing and it came out satisfactory.  I ended up redoing the entire glove this week after the test run last weekend, and I'm going to give this a go on Sunday.  The Warrior glove lacing was a pain in the butt to remove.   

Hey that looks very nice! 👌

I see you changed the style in the mid of the midlane there? Is it in purpose?

You can do a slight re-tightening or equalling the laces after use or two as the skatelace has some slack in it. Yes those Warrior holes are very tight for the skate lace. Just did a G2Pro lacing with single T and extended holes and it was still with some extra work.

Just to say, original Warrior style is very dense with a lot of webloops and with skatelace there is even less visibility through than with normal cord. With forementioned G2 I left one webloop away and it came out very nice. 

Didn't find a picture of my first project glove that was G2Pro too, there I left 2 loops away from original and that with extra thin cord made the pocket look like it wasn't really there. But never did any puck go through, not even close. The puck is still very big when you compare it to your glove pocket webbing.

Edit: found that picture. It is an open pocket 😃 It wasn't that thin of a cord that I remembered. I've used even thinner since, that looks like normal 4mm size.


Edited by ArdeFIN
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I see what you're saying now about the change midway through the mid-lane and, no, it was not done on purpose.  I knew after I was done that something looked odd and that I may have to redo it, but now I will for sure.  The biggest issue was the thumb-side starting knot was actually inside the thumb area inside the glove.  It took several blind grabs with needle-nose pliers to get the original knot out and, although I wanted to do it differently and make it easier for next time, I ended up redoing the same way as the original. 

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Those starting knots are a pita unless you dismantle the whole glove or perimeter atleast. And Warrior is the worst in this view with very tight binding and perimeter lacing. 

Still looking good with your Warrior glove. 👍

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  • 1 month later...

So the all famous Brians webbing. Well not that famous and what ever. But it's different from the others. Let's see how I copy this one, it's not the perfect copy but atleast looks pretty much identical.

So we start by taking a lace of about 250cm for this Subzero. Lip of the T has two holes to make the starting point. In this Brians the holes are in the middle, usually those are right next to the binding. Won't affect the webbing though.

So the picture tells it better than my writing. Equal length on both ends.


Take the "top" lace and leave the other one alone. Through the first top hole and back down. You can take the rules here but this webbing is a system that has it's rules already so you can't actually change much to make it work.


Nothing special so far, just go up, loop and come down. Now at the bottom end, jump over one loop. That is needed later. Then straight up and again skip one hole on the spine.


Then a quick forward to where we are done with the first lace except for the end route which I didn't know at this point. (Up - skip one hole - inside out -) two times around itself - skip one lopp at the bottom and back up.


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Then we take the second lace and it gets a bit more tricky. Through the loop - under the earlier lace - hook with the earlier lace to make new loops and inside out at the spine. 


Then over and towards inside the earlier lace and then through the loop of the same lace that is going on at the moment!


Open up the earlier lace so you find the upgoing lace and inwards through the loop and outwards again from the same lace loop.


Then over the earlier lace, through the end loop and under the lace and up again. Leave a loop, open the earlier lace to find the other one of those (the downwards headed) and make a loop. Repeat and do the spine as in the above picture. Then again down in the same execution.


Loop the last opening with the easiest way you can and there we are.

This webbing is so easy to do with loose laces and then tighten one by one until the result is pleasing.

Remember there are two different laces to be tightened which makes it easier but following the right lace is a bit difficult atleast on the turn arounds where it goes over one row.

This webbing has a different kind of give than the original lacing where only one lace goes through the web. This feels more loose to touch and pull the pocket but still holds it's shape and loop size pretty well.

Notice how the lace goes "over" in the same lines and under in the 90 degree lines through. Pity that the visual effect isn't very clear in the 2D image.


I can't imagine how I would've explained this in any reasonable way with my slightly lacking english because I don't know if I could tell a Finnish person how to do this webbing without any pictures.

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One more picture from the inside of the pocket. It might a bit more to how the laces go around each other and the spine.

This webbing is incredibly fast when you get to the style and just do it because of the dual lace. It's so quick to route the 1 meter lace through there compared to the original style where you start the job with whole 2,5m of lace to pull through. Also the first lace is super fast to do, second one takes much longer to find all the right loops. But still quick. The second web to this pocket, after training with the first, took me about 10 minutes to complete. The first side though, it took some more time to remember how it went after all. Last time I did this one was with the Zero G glove in the summer. 


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