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Paddle Grip Thread


BadAngle41
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1 hour ago, Puckstopper said:

My CCM is still holding up, and I actually did a Warrior M1 Pro+ a few weeks back.  That stick only lasted 2 games before cracking right where I cut it.   I just did 3 more tonight (Another EF4, another M1 Pro+ and a V1 Pro+) but added some quick curing epoxy over the cuts.   I'm going to wrap it firmly with stick tape before adding my padding to see if that makes the Warrior sticks hold up better. 

My first composite stick was a warrior CR3 a few years ago, had foam cores and always cut those paddles, first time using the composite with the paddle cut, snapped right where I cut it on the first shot. Could be that Warrior sticks don't hold up well to paddle grip cutting.

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6 minutes ago, Charlie T said:

My first composite stick was a warrior CR3 a few years ago, had foam cores and always cut those paddles, first time using the composite with the paddle cut, snapped right where I cut it on the first shot. Could be that Warrior sticks don't hold up well to paddle grip cutting.

Could be.  If that's the case I imagine we'll find out soon.  I'll use these Warriors as my primary gamers until they die just to see how they do. 

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  • 2 months later...

Yes.  I carved my EF4s up way worst that that and they're doing fine.  Use a jigsaw with a fresh fine toothed blade.  I recommend using 2 part epoxy to cover the foam you'll expose when cutting.  There's probably no correlation, but the only stick I didn't do this on snapped quickly.  All the rest, including another M1 out of the same 3 pack, are going strong.  Whether the glue does or doesn't add strength (again, it probably doesn't) it definitely DOES feel nice and smooth when you tape over it. 

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2 hours ago, Puckstopper said:

Yes.  I carved my EF4s up way worst that that and they're doing fine.  Use a jigsaw with a fresh fine toothed blade.  I recommend using 2 part epoxy to cover the foam you'll expose when cutting.  There's probably no correlation, but the only stick I didn't do this on snapped quickly.  All the rest, including another M1 out of the same 3 pack, are going strong.  Whether the glue does or doesn't add strength (again, it probably doesn't) it definitely DOES feel nice and smooth when you tape over it. 

So yes for axis but do you know about bauer? I would rather do it on my backup first or my old v1 pros before I do it on my main stick

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On 3/23/2021 at 10:02 AM, A.YOUNGoalie13 said:

Does anyone know if its possible to cut a bobrovsky style grip into either a ccm axis 1.9 or a bauer 3s pro?

4007E9BA-F44B-4504-AE80-6D0786892B93.jpeg

 

23 hours ago, Puckstopper said:

Yes.  I carved my EF4s up way worst that that and they're doing fine.  Use a jigsaw with a fresh fine toothed blade.  I recommend using 2 part epoxy to cover the foam you'll expose when cutting.  There's probably no correlation, but the only stick I didn't do this on snapped quickly.  All the rest, including another M1 out of the same 3 pack, are going strong.  Whether the glue does or doesn't add strength (again, it probably doesn't) it definitely DOES feel nice and smooth when you tape over it. 

Get a dremel too and some sort of vices to keep the stick still, and cover your extremities. ESPECIALLY your eyes nose and mouth. Most, if not all composite sticks today contain some sort of fiberglass and when they get into your skin it isn’t fun to get out, and inhaling it/getting it in your eyes is very dangerous. I know it seems excessive but it needs to be done. 

Edited by southpawtendy48
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  • 1 month later...

This is the only thing I could find on regulations:

"The blade of the goalkeeper’s stick shall not exceed 15 ½ inches in width from the heel to the end. The blade of the goalkeeper’s stick shall be between 2 inches and 3 ½ inches wide except at the heel where the maximum width shall be 4 ½ inches. 

The curvature of the blade, measured in such a way that a straight line drawn from the heel to the base of the toe shall not exceed ¾ inch at the point of maximum curvature."

Link: https://www.usahockeyrulebook.com/page/show/1084398-rule-301-sticks

 

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usa hockey doesnt care aboiut the handle shape it just cant be greater the 26" at the key is 3 1/3" wide is the starting point at the paddle  countinous to the heel following the bottom half of the shaft and not the paddle  bottom side.  What this mean is the stick would be illegel if the paddle was 30" and and 25" you hold the paddle  with a cutout.  and yes the heel part can be 4 1/2" or whatever it is wide..

the rules is dont want u to take more space at 3 1/2 " at 26" going down the shaft.

not as a measuring tool of where the hand is positioned vertically or horzitialing.   

yeah spelling errors all around.

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  • 2 months later...
On 11/12/2020 at 9:25 AM, Puckstopper said:

So I decided to have a crack at this.  I had an EF4 stick sitting around that I'd already done some reshaping of the shoulders on.   It was very little work to modify it to mimic what Lundqvist uses.  I've also used foam to fill out the grip area of my Warrior M1P+ sticks, so I decided to incorporate that here as well.  I don't pay for InGoal Premium, so I'm not sure what Lundy's logic for this is, but based on reviews here I was interested in trying a couple different grips out.

PXL_20201112_003356120.thumb.jpg.3510472c62fd175808de53e4756f4ebb.jpg

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By locating the foam carefully I was able to minimize contact with the sharp edges of the cutout, and a little stretchy tape made it quite comfortable.

PXL_20201112_003935503.thumb.jpg.ec4c7c76cd8d8e3c326c8a5f88b71574.jpg

 

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I'll admit, I didn't really expect much from this mod.  It looks horribly uncomfortable, but in fact it's just the opposite.  My hand feels locked in place on the stick (in a good way) and the square shoulder isn't awkward at all, despite the appearance. 

Unfortunately I didn't get to decide if the mod works well for me or not yet.   I got a game in with it last night, but given that it was my first game back after injuries to both legs I was moving poorly and was more focused on not moving in a way that caused my ankle to hurt more than it already does as opposed to my stickwork.  Unfortunately last night convinced me I probably need to take another couple weeks before trying to play again, but I'll update once I have a better impression of what this does (if anything) for my game.

 

This is the shape I have settled upon. I get a better grip on the stick with the use of the index and middle finger, no impact on whether or not I can poke cheque, and it is insanely comfortable.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

1782981508_Paddlegrip.jpg.f80d1172cb6539022c26845147f60e55.jpg

Finally got around to trying out a different paddle grip. Shaved down the front shoulder to ~90 degrees, gave a huge slope to the back shoulder and put a little index finger trigger to try out. Will probably end up making a bigger trigger but I also poke-check and play the puck often so don't know how it'll feel/perform. 

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I've used a thick, elastic electrical type of tape on my handle for a few years now.  I really like the grippyness and the cushion effect it offers.  When applying it, I start at the bottom and wrap up, putting a small drop of superglue on the final wrap to tape it to itself.  No glue goes on the stick itself and there is hardly any residue after removing it.  

I love Warrior sticks but they are bit too slippery for my tastes without added grip.

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20210509_112923.jpg

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Not to ruin anyone's game plan but, watching some of Trav4's recent videos with Pasco Valana, he points out a few important things to consider before doing a Bob spec mod to your stick, along the lines of affecting the lie angle, down position and deflection control. You can see a few examples as he is doing the drills.

In any case, you can still try it out for fun if you wish. 

When someone as recognised as Pasco drops some science, you wanna hear him out. 

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22 hours ago, RichMan said:

Not to ruin anyone's game plan but, watching some of Trav4's recent videos with Pasco Valana, he points out a few important things to consider before doing a Bob spec mod to your stick, along the lines of affecting the lie angle, down position and deflection control. You can see a few examples as he is doing the drills.

In any case, you can still try it out for fun if you wish. 

When someone as recognised as Pasco drops some science, you wanna hear him out. 

Yes, definitely true. I’ve already cut a stick with an approximate template I made from an earlier post (see attached). I really like it so far - I like feeling lower to the ice and more the more connected feeling between the blocker and paddle. I had been struggling with blocker saves and after an adjustment period I’m seeing an improvement. 

683025F1-7AC9-4714-BDF6-19F82AB39CA0.jpeg

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

Going to try it out this weekend - using a hole saw to cut a notch in the paddle (using only half of the saw to cut a semi-circle into the paddle), sand it to smooth, and then epoxy it to seal. I'll come back with pictures! Any tips/thoughts about this method?

Will use an old foam core as a test run to get the template right, then do it to one of my CCM composites (the older, beat-up, only-good-for-practice one). If I like it well enough I'll do it to my main stick.

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Couple of pics from this week's experimentation. Used a 25mm (1") hole saw to cut the initial holes and a dovetail saw (it's what I had around) to trim the paddle. Sanded down with 220 grit and used two-part epoxy to seal everything:

Old Warrior STR foam core to test the process/feel of it:

IMG_4010.jpg

- cut the initial hole and then trimmed a bit off the paddle. It felt good, but not as sturdy to hold with the paddle part removed, so I changed it up for the next one:

 

CCM Premier 2.9 Composite - drilled the initial hole for height/placement. I think i got this one a bit deeper than I hoped, but it does feel comfortable.

IMG_4011.jpg

 

After playing around a bit with it at home, I decided to trim below the hole to fit a bit better. Felt my blocker was snagging on it. Could have really used a dremel or sawzall here! haha

IMG_4013.jpg

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I used it sunday at a pickup and it felt really good to play with. There was a slight awkward feeling of the top area kind of poking my finger when i would hold it awkwardly (i.e during a scramble or if I recovered poorly from a poke), so I think i'm going to either grind it down a bit to soften it or just add a few layers of tape to soften it. I see most people use grip tape, so that might be a better play to add some layers and make it more comfortable. I'm very open to advice on this.

All in all, a really fun experiment. I'll need some time to iron it out and get the issues sorted before I do it to the main stick though. When I do I'll be using a sawzall or dremel to do it nice and clean, though.

Edited by indykrap
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Here’s a grip I’ve been doing for a season now

B4E37169-ACDA-4897-B2A9-68222341980E.thumb.jpeg.0ff7c09a81b730d45febbfad75089cea.jpeg
All slight adjustments in hopes of mimicking the feel of the pentagrip. Basically just tape rolled up into a rough shape and then taped over to give a similar feel. Taping shoulders with standard tape is hard if anyone has tips please share them

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