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Vaughn V6 2000 & 2200 PRO


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These gloves go into the same topic as one is the two piece cuff and the other is surprsingly the one piece cuff.

Both are heavily used but still in rather good condition and the jenpros and sewing need only some repairs and nothing major.

The plastics propably are already breaking and might need new ones. But can't really tell from outside of the gloves.

There are some similarities with these gloves but also some unexpected differences, nothing really remarkable but still.

As for background I have a V6 1100 already in my collection and can do some comparison between these to see how the overseas production is and what are the key savings made here materialvise.

2200 Pro is the first and two pictures of the beginning state tell you a lot.

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Looking at the break line you can tell from the picture that the closure of the glove is terrible. The outside looks like it's been laying in a storage floor for some time, I believe the nylon fabric should be white... I'll try some Oxy clean in collaboration of the winegar to see if I can brighten things up atleast a little.

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Aw man I have such a sweet spot in my heart for the 2200 pro.  It was my first one piece cuff glove and my first away from the T5500.  I had 2 different ones and loved them both. 

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Some pictures from dismantling the 2200.

Didn't know that Vaughn had this carbon thing already on V6 series. Here the normally curling edge of the glove is reinforced with 2mm plastic and it's held pretty well.

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Foam over and under the edge, and atleast it's lighter than felt. Would make a better protection if felt was dropped to half of a thickness and replaced with some foam.

The edge of the carbon board is quite fractured, see what I can do for it. Should be heated up to melting point and pressed back together. Atleast I assume it's normal plastic of some sort infused to the carbon sheets.

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Basic findings on Vaughn of this era. The thumb area felt is not installed very well and is getting layered which affects the break area operation. Easy to fix and improve though.

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Some plastic pushing in to the break area too and only lacing holding it back but not too well done here either. Designer problems but seemingly not too easy to make these things work properly.

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Always interesting design is this break line. Who in this world would design a knot under the index knuckle? The worst spot to get the puck any ways and with that knot making a spike through padding. Ouch.

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Carbon is used to protect the thumb also. Atleast it's light weight. This part has been taking some action on the pocket edge (lower on the picture. Needs some smoothing.

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Some basic work done with the outter palm fabric, fixed the area around where T is attached and added some new binding while there. The old was so worn.

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Inside those stiched lines there is 1mm thin carbon sheets. I have no idea what those give to the glove except weight but there they are hidden. Would be somewhat reasonable if the next layer inwards was padding but it isn't, there is the finger plate and after that there is felt.

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One last photo on the backhand fabric, that is in good condition and only two brass eyelets have popped. Have to renew them just for the looks, and the nylon there will last better that way too.

Next thing is to look towards the T and then the plastics errr. the carbon at finger area is ok but the thumb plastic might need some attention.

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Then to the T, which has the usual damages. This is where it begins.

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The end of the spine is pretty bad looking, but still good enough to be refurbished with reasonable effort. (focus missed on picture)

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Cracked Jenpro at the bend point on the finger side. Actually the jenpro was cracked almost the whole length in the picture. I was about to just replace this end part but after seeing the lip being damaged it was no use to repair just that short bit of it. So dismantle the thing and make a new one. 

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Here we go, new sheet of jenpro is cut and ready to start the building. I don't recall seeing double support "leather" before. Usually there is only one layer and it has been well enough. But I thought that it's been made like that and I'll leave it be.

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Jenpro sewn in. Easy part of the project done 😅

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Then there is the hard part of it. Sew the jenpros another long edge to the T and then add in those extra supports. 

I found it really tight to bend the whole package and it would need some break-in. So I took the 3mm punch and made some holes to add some give to the areas that should bend easily aka. break line in the middle and the bend point at the finger side. Thumb side was already very soft and thin so I left it as is.

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It appeared that the support layers are infused with something that makes it very stiff material to sew. I broke two needles and after some more struggle I removed the white layer with knife from the hole line. And after that I was able to use the sewing machine with the hand wheel to make the sew. The next thing I checked with the 2200 gloves T to see if I have to through this same operation but luckily it's ok'ish I shouldn't.

But I got it done and the result is very decent. No picture of it yet, sorry.

 

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Time for some finger plastic and carbon. I've only had old gloves where I've seen this Vaughns carbon thing so I don't know how it is as new. But when old and used it always seems to start break into separate layers and loose the rigidity. The material is actually super thin carbon sheets infused with some plastic to make it like normal carbon sheet is except that due to plastic it is a lot more flexible. And not using the resin it isn't breaking the same way.

In cathcers I've seen (4 or 5 total) the edge is always layering out. On the positive side the normal curling there is on Vaughn catchers isn't happening.

In these V6 gloves there is added 2,5mm (1/8" maybe?) layer of plastic to reinforce the edge. It has done a pretty good job but it's time to put a new piece on there. (Threads already cut before I remembered to take a photo of it)

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(Sidenote, on SLR catcher this added plastic had been upgraded to same carbon material and it was a mess.)

I didn't have any good picture of the layering out of the material but something had to be done to the carbon also. So earlier I've burned some edges of the carbon sheet to clean them up and noticed the plastic like reaction to heat and flame. So the plastic could be melted at 250-300 degrees celsius and while it isn't really good for the plastic it should renew the sheet atleast a little. So let's try it out.

Small gas torch and carefully heating up the edge from a small area on both sides for as long as the plastics seems to start melting. Just a little more heat and then flat headed pliers and carefully pressing the material straight and together. Cool down and yes! It really does go together again.

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Not really nice looking but edge is solid and pretty rigid also. And it was pretty badly bent outwards which is also repaired.

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I'm not trying to make it perfect in any means as there is going to be the plastic edge on top. On pictures you can notice the old factory sewing has gone throug hthe carbon which has more like cracked. Also the die cut holes have same cracking on the edges. Durable and lightweight material that still needs some improving to be a solid performer here. And the weight savings are a bit lost with using basic plastic on the thumb plate.

One photo of the plastic reinforcement forming out of 3mm thick sheet and the carbon edge pretty much ready to go.

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Not a huge improvement today but just a little forward. Used a die cut at work and made some holes to the reinforce plate. Then a little heat to mold to fit the carbon.

Then some clamps and 1,5mm drill bit and a lot of holes for sewing the parts together.

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Used a 4mm drill bit to clean the holes just for doing it and then hand sewing with doubled 40 size thread.

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There is a minimal slack between as there is no way to tighten the thread as the sewing machine does. But then again it might be good thing for durability of the sewing as little impacts won't tear the thread right away.

The backside behind the carbon isn't that smooth but hopefully there will not be any trouble. I didn't wan't to use the torch here to smooth things up.

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using carbon on top of regular plastic looks very strange and suggests a purely marketing component of this mod, since all the benefits of carbon are lost with this design. unlike the same CURV from Bauer, which is a complete composite without the use of cheap plastic and works accordingly

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Posted (edited)
On 3/30/2021 at 10:09 AM, ser33 said:

using carbon on top of regular plastic looks very strange and suggests a purely marketing component of this mod, since all the benefits of carbon are lost with this design. unlike the same CURV from Bauer, which is a complete composite without the use of cheap plastic and works accordingly

The carbon sheet itself is mostly carbon on Vaughn. Only it's not hardened and solidified by resin but plastic to keep some elasticity. Actually it might be something else than plastic like PE. But it behaves like plastic, melts with same amount of heat as PE etc. If that was what you were referring to.

I'll see if I have a good spot to take a picture of the structure. What I've written down is what I see. I haven't read or found any absolute fact on this material Vaughn is using.

Edit: Got a picture of an edge from the 220 gloves thumb protector. Can't actually tell how many layers there are but quite a lot.

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Edited by ArdeFIN
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Had a lot of fight with this 2000 glove to make it work. Well I can't tell if it is now but that is being revealed pretty soon as I get the glove together again.

First a picture of the cuff where I added a layer of 8mm LD foam to fill up the empty space the HD foam has left as it's been compressed during time.

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Then one picture of the new plastic. I shaped it out from the palm jenpro so it should fit in pretty well. The shape is a lot different than the original plastic was.

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I had some trouble with the palm padding and finger plate. The plate was sewn in a bit off and that caused it to being skewed and miss the break line partially.

Fixing this would require me to take of the plate and reset it which I wasn't really up to now since the glove was pretty good before.

So I just cut out the extra felt on the edge to give some room there. In midlane you may notice the black circles which mark where the holes next to them should be if the padding is aligned to other parts by the finger plate holes.

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Well actually the mid plastic was really just thrown in and that's it. The holes on the plastic should be on a straigth line to fit the jenpro sheet holes.

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And if the holes where matched and used like it is the lining would be as follows.

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This is about the same amount that the finger plate is skewed too. While I'm not going to fix the finger plate I made a new plastic for the midlane with tapered ends and a narrower overall size so that it fits in the channel sewn on the felt. (didn't manage any decent picture on this one)

Narrower plastic here with an improved alignment should help the break to work smoothly. I'm still trying to figure out how could I move the knots of the mid lacing away from my palm area. The pocket end is wasy though but the other end might need a few more holes to the jenpro.

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Posted (edited)

Didn't take a look at my pictures about how the wrist strap was before. But what I'm used to with them across the brands it's usually tightened by pulling the strap towards right hand (regular glove). With the padding and quidance for the strap I had a problem for how could it be tightened? And when I would like to open the glove to dry out the strap would prevent that too. This Vaughn design is a little awkward to say but I think it'll work good enough. And if the glove is as good as Vaughns usually are for my hand I wouldn't even need to tighten the strap but let it be on a sweet spot.

Here's how it is now and the nylon strap will be routed through those cuts on the red fabric. The black buckle is usually at where the strap comes up now.

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Had some of the lacing done already too, but have to go the shop and get more lace to get the glove ready.

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At this point it is working really well and the feel is very familiar to my existing V6. I'm afraid it will become quite stiff and how the break will work is a question yet.

Is that location of the boot of the T like offset compared to break? Normally it is at the break line but then again I don't know there is any reason why it couldn't be offset.

Binding on the finger side edge is awful but it will do for me and it doesn't reguire a whole lot of dismantling to get it repaired later if it needed to.

One picture of the outside while there isn't a lot to see. Closure to ice is very good to cover the puck. Does the pocket seem to be huge or is it just an optical distraction? 

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Edited by ArdeFIN
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Perimeter laced and finishing touches are near. I was a bit afraid of the glove become stiff after lacing but hell no! It is really convenient to use.

Whadda you say for the pocket, should I make it the orginal way and stuff the T spines close together:

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Or go the other way and separate them over the break line?

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I do like the latter more because:

1. it makes the pocket look HUGE!

2. adds a lot of lace to the pocket and especially the mid lane which then sucks the pucks in (haven't really tested this yet)

3. Swapping the finger side spine over the break line easies the closure a little and stops the spine from twisting when the glove closes.

On the con side I'd have to figure out a way to lace them spines, as normal lacing isn't going to work.

One picture from the top view.

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Posted (edited)

Few pictures to close this case.

Went with the wider pocket, works nicely as the whole glove does. The wide pocket gives this odd feeling when puck enters and I close the glove, the puck can still move around freely as the pocket isn't stopping the movement. Closure is about perfect so there is no risk for pop-out but the feeling is odd. Had this same issue with my Simmons which also has a wide pocket from the factory.

The natural white lip jumps out to you, Vaughn white isn't available. Some completely different color like black or red would've done it sharper.

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Then I'll get going with the 2200.

Edited by ArdeFIN
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