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Bauer 1S Glove@Blocker


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I currently own a Reebok XL24 if I'm not mistaken 590. and I never liked it. I bought it brand new and after two years of use I almost got used to it


After I tried the 1S pads, I kept looking for a Bauer glove. I even almost bought Vasilevskiy's glove, but the deal did not take place



I was looking for both the glove itself and the set, but for a long time I did not come across anything with a good price / condition ratio

and just this week a 1S kit was bought for $80. in a "dead closet" state


the seller kept silent about some shortcomings. which were not visible in the photo, and I was in too much of a hurry to get them to ask questions. my fault

disassembly before washing showed that "the patient is in clinical death" and there is a lot of work to be done

here are some quick pics









a large plate was broken in the glove and it closed very poorly despite long use


before disassembling for washing, I weighed the glove and blocker to compare with my current XL24 and Velos V3

1S glove



XL24 glove



1S blocker



Velocity V3 Blocker



although even before weighing, it was clear by feel that the 1S was heavier

and if with a glove this difference was not very noticeable, especially considering that 1S is a PRO and an entry-level XL24, then the 1S blocker was much heavier than my professional and reinforced V3

everything was taken apart and washed and now it is drying

meanwhile, I carefully studied the existing problems and roughly determined the work needed. yes, the state is very sad and there is a lot to be done, but after the successful restoration of the 1S pads, which were not in the best condition, I think that everything will work out, it will just take a little longer than initially I would like

to be continued

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50 minutes ago, keeperton said:

If I trust one person on here to do this proper, it's gotta be you.

Good luck!


I don't have as much glove repair experience as @ArdeFIN, so I re-read all his topics and remembered a lot that might be useful to me.

I hope everything works out the way I plan.

but in any case, I will be very grateful for feedback with advice and opinions

Edited by ser33
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I'll be happy to give you tips if you need any so post pictures if you get into situation where you need a second opinion. 

These look awful at first but after all is dismantled and washed it already gets better. 👍

I have an Ultrasonic waiting for its turn so I'll sure be following this one.

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3 hours ago, ArdeFIN said:

I'll be happy to give you tips if you need any so post pictures if you get into situation where you need a second opinion. 

These look awful at first but after all is dismantled and washed it already gets better. 👍

I have an Ultrasonic waiting for its turn so I'll sure be following this one.


thanks! so the first question) the palm protection on my 1S is visually the same as on your 1X, have you played with it yet? enough protection? it is very thin and this confuses me a lot, although the presence of Poron in the inside of the glove is somewhat reassuring. Do you think additional reinforcement is needed, for example, with 4 mm foam?

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18 hours ago, ser33 said:

Thanks! so the first question) the palm protection on my 1S is visually the same as on your 1X, have you played with it yet? enough protection? it is very thin and this confuses me a lot, although the presence of Poron in the inside of the glove is somewhat reassuring. Do you think additional reinforcement is needed, for example, with 4 mm foam?

I actually already sold my 1X but used it a few times and was happy with the protection, no problems at all. Ofcourse I don't play full slapshot hockey so hardest shots I face are mostly from distance. But as said no problems with close range snapshots either. I never got used to not having a pinky loop and couldn't set my hand as I would've liked it. And the 1X isn't that much the same as Vaughn VE8 or Premier so I couldn't adapt to catch the pucks into the pocket but moreso to my thumb area and caused a lot of pop-outs.

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after drying all the parts, a check was carried out which showed that the blocker had a lot of minor damage, the restoration of which is not difficult but will take a long time. the glove had less damage but they were more global. since I was more interested in the glove, I wanted to start using it as soon as possible, so I started with it. the weekend was almost entirely devoted to the family, so progress is small, but the work has begun

The CORTECH Skin on the front was surprisingly almost intact. "surprisingly" because on the 1S pads it breaks down much more

there was a small tear in the area of the attachment of the T pocket at the tip of the fingers and in the seam on the side of the cuff



the first gap was eliminated by lining and sewing on a piece of jenpro to strengthen this place, the gap itself was stitched with a cross



in the pocket area there was not only a CORTECH tear, but also a nylon tear in the corner



not the most convenient place for repairs, and the choice of repair methods is small. I just started the seam a little more stepping back from the edge and the gap




as a result, the pocket has slightly decreased, which will require adjusting the size of the inner large plate and polystyrene filler, but now it is completely intact

one seam was also found that began to diverge and was restored


then came the most hated job, the replacement of the binding. I don’t know why, but I don’t like sewing binding))

on the front of the palm, it was rubbed in places until it completely disappeared


leftovers have been removed


and the binding has been replaced


the same thing happened on the inner palm



and replaced


but what was a large plate and polystyrene filler



polystyrene glue works wonders



I also managed to make a new large plate, but I will talk about this in detail next time.

to be continued...

Edited by ser33
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since the large plate was completely destroyed, its use as a template was very difficult. so I just circled the glove itself on a sheet of cardboard


cut out


again tried on the glove and cut again


inserted into a glove and cut again


after that I transferred it to plastic and cut it out


combined with a polystyrene liner and marked out the bend lines



bent over a gas burner


and tried on a glove


for strength glued together with a polystyrene liner


again inserted into the glove and marked the holes in the plate and drilled them



to protect the outer material of the glove from friction against the plastic, pasted LD 3mm foam on the plastic



now everything is ready for pre-assembly

I can’t say how accurately I managed to reproduce the bends of the plate, but I liked the result

especially when you consider that for the first time in my life I did the replacement of the plate with a glove on my own

Edited by ser33
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there were two stripes on the glove indicating that modern high-tech materials were used in it



and if there were no questions about the presence of PORON, it is sewn between layers of nylon on the inner palm of the glove and is visible through the holes on it


then CURV had to look. there are only three plastic elements in the glove - large and small plates and thumb protection. and they were all white and made of ordinary plastic. where is CURV?

on the outside of the small plate, sewn to protect the palm, there was a piece of foam sewn along the edge to the foam on the back of the plate


the small plate was strongly bent and tore this seam


when I separated this piece of foam, I saw CURV sewn to the foam there and, judging by the remains of glue on it, it was all once glued to a small plate


a fun way to reinforce the edge of the plate, preventing it from twisting

most importantly, it doesn't work at all

and here the main question is, it seems that they didn’t deceive, CURVE is really present in the glove. but here's its functionality... it just doesn't work as it should

in comparison, Vaughn's carbon composite serves the same purpose. feel the difference


I don’t have information about what level of protection on my glove, but judging by what I saw turning my palm over, this is the easiest Game Ready

the palm consisted of approximately 4-5mm foam and 1mm imitation felt


compared to the palm of ArdeFINs with his 1X glove



something tells me that even for me this protection will be insufficient. I play with different levels of players, including juniors and additional protection definitely does not hurt

so as not to disassemble the glove later, when after the ice it turns out that the protection is not enough, I immediately glued 4mm LD foam to the back of the hand, taking into account the break line


made holes


trying on, added another 4mm layer to the thumb area



and straightened the plate giving it the desired shape. also soldered small cracks on it


now everything is ready for pre-assembly



Edited by ser33
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That's the way I do new plastics too. I very rarely copy all of the plastic shape straight to a new one but make some improvements. Well atleast try to improve.

I started my US project too, a lot of similarity already found. Where is the evolution on these gloves? Or is it just a new sticker on an old glove?

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10 hours ago, ArdeFIN said:

That's the way I do new plastics too. I very rarely copy all of the plastic shape straight to a new one but make some improvements. Well atleast try to improve.

I started my US project too, a lot of similarity already found. Where is the evolution on these gloves? Or is it just a new sticker on an old glove?

I also tried to improve by increasing the angle of the bend in order to better guide the puck into the pocket, focusing on the shape of the plate of this glove


in your topics, I found for myself a lot of small useful nuances that few people know about and will use them in my work, so I will often refer to your experience and mention your nickname)

IMO, unlike the 1S pads, the design of which as a whole was very revolutionary, Bauer gloves from generation to generation follow an evolutionary path of development, receiving subtle changes and new materials

perhaps due to the initially successful design, unlike, for example, Lefevre's gloves

Supreme One series


Supreme TotalOne series


Supreme TotalOne NXG Series


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this is going to be a big post with lots of pictures, so excuse me)

The day before yesterday and yesterday, preliminary assemblies were carried out.

Build #1 was done without putting the outer foam on the big plate and adding foam to the palm of the thumb. it was her result that showed the need for these additions

but just before starting the assembly, I had to work a little on the lower part of the cuff (I don’t know how to call it correctly) since it is tied with a cord to the glove. this item had a very worn velcro that was replaced with a new one




I also added a piece of foam 4mm inside




After the first pre-assembly, I found that I did not like the wrist attachment system at all

neither by its design, nor by the state of the strap crumpled at the attachment point


on the Reebok XL24 with the same mount, I abandoned it by making my changes

here I completely removed the valve with the strap

cut off one of the paired loops, one of which serves to attach the backhand and the other to the palm strap


in order to sew the loop below, in place of the old strap, I had to sew up a slot in the place where the wrist strap had previously passed through the entire glove

I sewed on a piece of nylon strap and cross-stitched the incision



and sewed a loop on the reinforced place


the palm strap now fastens lower on the glove to secure the wrist and allow for greater range of motion


then I will talk about the assembly steps by combining the first and second pictures

the glove is assembled in a classic way - a lace connecting all its parts. since different laces connect different parts of the glove, correct assembly sequence is important

you need to start from the cuff gradually moving towards the fingertip

laced cuff


further, external lacing on the side of the thumb

bring to a fold and leave


the next lace ties the palm guard, all parts of the glove and the bottom of the cuff and runs through the middle of the glove




bringing the cord to the bottom of the glove, break again at the fold cord


and continue to your fingertips


lace up the backhand



then lace up the outer lace of the palm from top to bottom


collected glove


both builds showed that there was excess material in different parts which were marked and removed





of course, before the end of the outer lacing, it is necessary to lace up the ends of the T pocket



I will dwell on it in more detail

since the glove had a perimeter of 110 cm


I had "legitimate" 3-4 cm on T pocket increase

new holes with 1.5 cm offset on each side were marked and punched




a few words about closure

after purchase, the glove could not close completely with one hand


Thanks to ArdeFIN, I know there are several reasons for poor closing. poor assembly with misaligned holes, excess material and T pocket

at the first assembly, I did not lace up the T pocket



as seen in the pictures above, one hand closure is good

and with a laced T pocket is much worse


it means it's in it. since the T pocket was in good condition and did not require repair, I cut a little seam at its ends

its construction was very traditional - several layers of jenpro, a thick piece of artificial leather and plastic, reaching to the very edge

at the same time, the plastic on the side of the thumb cracked along the mounting holes


the plastic on the side of the palm was intact


I cut off both the broken piece and the whole to the holes

the remaining layers of jenpro and thick leather will provide sufficient strength, and the absence of plastic will not interfere with the closure

I weighed the glove which showed 1050 grams. more than the original weight, but within the weight of other similar gloves

plan for the next day:

finish the places with excess material, fully assemble the glove and










Edited by ser33
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took apart the glove again and began to eliminate small nuances

marked the area where the fingers end


and removed the "excess" foam


in these places, the foam has no function other than thickening the protection of the palm, which causes excessive tension on the inside of the glove and negatively affects the closure

smoothed the transition from a double layer of foam to a single layer


marked and cut off the "extra" thickness of polystyrene in the area of the thumb



marked and cut off the part of the large plate that goes beyond the break line



cut a piece from the remaining "unnecessary" part of the wrist attachment


put foam in it


and sewed the resulting pad to the end of the lower part of the cuff


this is how it looks on the assembled glove


Now I will try to explain what it is and why?

the fact is that anatomically, my thumb cannot bend at an angle of 90 degrees to the line of the palm-forefinger. This position is painful and uncomfortable for me.

that's why I liked my old V3 glove so much, it had the thumb at a sharper comfortable angle


many modern gloves, including the 1S, are designed around a 90 degree thumb position (picture below)


while the position that is convenient for me is in the photo below


on the Reebok XL24 glove, I had the same problem, but there is a pocket for the thumb plastic that is larger than the plastic itself, which allows you to move the plastic a little by changing the angle of the thumb, which I did

also on that glove i used this mod for the first time with a pad at the base of the palm and it worked great for me


the essence of this pad is that it slightly "pulls" the base of the palm away from the glove, allowing the thumb to take a more comfortable position

then fully assembled the glove in the order described above

using ArdeFIN's advice from his topics, I made the knots at the ends of the lacing as close as possible to the thumb on one side and away from the break line on the other


this gives a slight surplus of material to the inside of the glove, aiding in a better closure



after which the last stage remained - lacing the pocket

from the previous post you can understand that for this I used a skate lace

I used it on XL24 and was satisfied



also on this glove I tried lacing with a "floating" pocket and was also satisfied

since this is not my first lacing, I managed quite quickly

for those who are not so experienced or doing it for the first time I highly recommend the thread

I always use the same weaving technique, which I consider the easiest and fastest (because I don’t know how to do it differently, laughs)

first, the lace is threaded into the holes of the T-pillars forming loops


the next rows of lace are threaded through these loops forming new ones and so on until the end of the pocket



Finishing the lacing of the pocket, we need to give it the correct rounded shape. for this I use the "on the knee" method, which could be called the "ser33 method" but I'm sure I'm not the only one using it. laughs. its essence lies in the fact that the pocket is put on a bent knee in the literal sense of the word and the "extra" length of the lace is pulled where necessary, giving the pocket the desired shape



when the pocket is formed, I turn to tightening and tying the laces in its lower part. for this glove I used the following scheme

I crossed the ends of the laces and threaded them into the corresponding loops


then threaded them up fastened on the leg T tied and cut off the excess



Well, here is the result of a week of work




closing and full opening with one hand of the assembled glove



final weighing


more than the original 980 grams, but now we have a glove with a reinforced palm and a thicker and stronger large plate

I haven't put it on the ice yet, so I can only speak about my impressions on the hand. there is a tight fit, no slackness, the glove does not dangle on the hand and feels like an extension of it. and heavy after XL24. but I'll get used to the weight





Edited by ser33
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Very nice! And thanks for trying out my methods of doing these and confirming that you can results out from them.

There is a lot of similarity to the US I'm upon at the moment. I'll start a topic of it soon and will link this topic in a few spots.

It is really cool to be able to compare the same design of a glove over two generations.

Have to mention here that what Bauer has actually improved over the time from Total One to US. It is very little in technical point of view. Changes in shape, angle and other has been the most of refining this glove series.

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Last Friday was the first ice with a new glove. it was very exciting

1) the break and position of the palm in the glove was very different from Reebok which at first, before being used on the ice, caused concern.

2) weight. noticeably heavier than Reebok, which also caused concern

3) the position of the pocket at the previously familiar position of the hand also differed from Reebok.

in the end, the impressions of the new glove can be described in one word - wow!

1) did not interfere at all and did not even feel any difference

2) did not feel more weight at all

3) did not interfere at all with catching the puck

in the process, the glove warmed up from the warmth of the hand and became wet with sweat and became even softer, the closure is fantastic!

adding foam to the palm was not in vain - got one shot to the top of the break and felt nothing!

the shape of the glove (the shape of a large plate) turned out to be very convenient and when the puck hits anywhere, the puck goes into the pocket

as we say, the glove catches itself!

the pocket itself turned out to be very deep and soft - I sometimes looked, but is there a puck in the pocket? I looked into it like into a black hole))) and the puck lay at its very bottom

Well, Bauer managed to pleasantly surprise me again and I never regret switching to this glove.

this is only the fourth glove in my entire hockey life that I have repaired. and the first in which the renovation was so global. the fact that the first time I managed to do everything right and not ruin the glove is of great importance to me and brings great moral satisfaction

let's see what the impressions of the blocker will be after its restoration

Edited by ser33
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  • 2 weeks later...

found some time to do the blocker. as I said earlier, the blocker has a lot of small and not very damage on every detail

I thought for a long time where to start and decided to start with protecting the thumb

there were numerous abrasions of the binding, which they already tried to repair


torn "marketing" mesh on the cuff



why do I call her that?

because it does not carry any functionality, namely, participation in ventilation

under it is a protective "pyramid" foam glued to a soft polyethylene foam, which is absolutely moisture and air tight and completes this sandwich with a nylon fabric also impermeable to air and moisture


thus, no ventilation occurs in principle and the mesh is simply not needed there

the old grid was carefully removed and replaced with a new one


the part covering the thumb had a tear in the lower part, which was repaired with a genuine leather patch, which was also torn in the same place



removed the patch


I don’t know what is the reason for the repeated tear in the same place - a zone of increased wear or the wrong choice of material

so, just in case, I made a new patch in this place from a larger piece of jenpro, leaving a protruding edge


replaced the binding on the entire element


then I tucked the "extra" part of jenpro and sewed along the edge, forming a new binding in this place, which has increased friction on the stick



on the back side


After sewing, I inserted the plastic protection inside.

finished with this part.

to be continued...


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Next, I took up the protectors of the fingers. nothing particularly critical - shabby binding, stretched elastic bands



I would like to pay attention to the design of the protectors. I have not seen such a solution before - the top and side protectors are separated from each other



most manufacturers have these parts in one piece



I don’t know what motivated Bauer’s decision, I didn’t have a single Bauer blocker before and I don’t know how convenient or not convenient it is to use

I was also surprised by the location of the elastic bands - at the top of the protectors



started with the index finger

the side part is torn and there is no protective foam in it


on the top of the nylon lining also began to diverge


nylon has been replaced. in the process of sewing, a piece of jenpro was inserted, later I will show why



the nylon on the side was also replaced, and in the process of sewing the other end of the jenpro, together with the top, was sewn into the side



cut off the excess and twisted


yes, so I got a "solid" protector

cut out a piece of HD foam to insert inside


sewed the top piece in place. together with him sewed an elastic band to a new place


sewed a new binding at the same time fastening all the parts


and received an updated thumb protector of a more familiar design for me



now for some fun

the patch on the tread seems to hint ...


however, here's what's inside


not very similar to Poron

where is Poron? probably it was all spent on the glove. laughs

I wonder if I will find CURV?




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Good job once again.

Comment on the thumb protector wear. That occurs from too big or curved plastic inside and which has very sharp edge. And that then contacts the paddle all the time and wears through. Can be fixed by adding new layers but better fix would to cut a bit of the material away to give more room and lessen the pressure against the fabric between paddle and protective plastic.

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31 minutes ago, ArdeFIN said:

Good job once again.

Comment on the thumb protector wear. That occurs from too big or curved plastic inside and which has very sharp edge. And that then contacts the paddle all the time and wears through. Can be fixed by adding new layers but better fix would to cut a bit of the material away to give more room and lessen the pressure against the fabric between paddle and protective plastic.

absolutely agree with you. inserting the plastic into place, I saw exactly this - it is too large for its "pocket" and its edges tear the lining. I trimmed it a bit to avoid repeating the problem.

but in any case, I appreciate your feedback and advice. I always listen to them. It's nice that we think alike and "speak the same language". thank you!

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the protector of the other fingers was updated in the same way - replaced the binding, connected the top and side protection, moved the elastic band to the fingers and left it alone




Poron has not yet been found.


search continues...

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as I said earlier, absolutely all the components of the blocker are damaged. my work moves from simple to complex and the closer to the final, the more effort and time

yesterday I spent a few hours and took up the biggest detail - the skin

her damage was in the form of "crumbled" nylon lining. when the cut edge of the fabric is not treated with anything, it begins to "crumble" under load. individual threads of the fabric are torn and stretched. the skin had such problems on the corners of the side panel trim



if on the glove I just shifted the seam and made the part a little smaller


then this method did not fit here

to make them look nice and inconspicuous, I used the "magic tape". I don't know how to properly call it. This is a polymer mesh on a paper basis. by means of thermal transfer (with an iron), it is melted and glued to the fabric and reinforces its edge, preventing "scattering". it can also be glued to other fabric


so i did


I sewed everything, cut off the excess and turned it out



the same problem was with the side part, where the holes for lacing are located


applied and glued with an iron tape


turned up the edge


and stitched as close to the holes as possible


then I thought a little and decided to further strengthen this place by binding



Edited by ser33
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next took up the cuff


her lining was 37.5 material and completely destroyed in places

they already tried to repair it by sewing on a patch made of genuine leather


deleted it


The cuff consisted of two parts, the special cutting of which gave it the desired shape. divided


the lining itself was foam-based


fortunately I had a similar material with a foam base

first sewed a small part



then he replaced the lining on the large part at the same time sewing a small one to it


twisted, inserted the protection inside and sewed the binding



to be...

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