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Bauer S20 Ultrasonic Catcher


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I just put this here to get it started.

Remember to visit the 1S glove project of Ser33:

The worst thing about this one is the fact I didn't measure the weight before starting. Dang. Got over that and this is where it all began.



Some wear and really minor tears. Known issues are the visible finger curl, broken closure and some thumb plastic problems. Definitely needs a new plastic but how bad is it. Structurally the same as CCM so could be totally wasted but doesn't feel like.

This is the best I could do with single hand trying to close the glove. No matter how I tried. With help I could close the glove not very tightly and sure enough with two hands outside the glove I could shut it up 😆


"Made in" is mentioned in every tab...


Edited by ArdeFIN
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Yes, atleast I've improved in taking pictures. That does give me a lot more to write about.

Findings continued, the Free Flex cuff was cut by the previous owner. I really don't know if this gives any more mobility or freedom for your hand?


One step towards fingers, Bauer has had this elastic strap connecting the cuff and backhand protection together since Total One atleast. I don't know why the designer still keeps this in? Glove date 12/19 is not really old at all. 


Pinky loop felt slimy even now that the glove is 100% dry. Don't know why but Bauer had the loop installed with the waterproof skin inside and the soft layer outside. I'd prefer it the other way.


Same thing appeared on the thumb loop but it was unused by the previous user. I like the loop around my thumb so have to fix this one too. The Y-strap was unsewn too or atleast not connected. From the line of holes you could tell it was sewn but direction is awkward. I wasn't able to turn the strap so that I could sew it back the way those holes are. How was this sewn in your 1S @ser33?


Ending it short for tonight and have a bit of a giggle with the visible CURV(R) Composite. Yeah nice to have it there but that is simply of no use and just a decorative piece as you can see when I squeezed the area between my fingers.


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/22/2022 at 10:57 PM, ArdeFIN said:

Findings continued, the Free Flex cuff was cut by the previous owner. I really don't know if this gives any more mobility or freedom for your hand?



after a few ices with my 1S I can confirm "yes it does". on my cuff the elastic bands are in place but they are completely stretched to the state of lack of any elasticity. and this allows the flap, and therefore your gloved hand, to flex up to 90 degrees completely freely, maximizing your range of motion.


in my case, the wrist fastening system was also changed, which in itself increased mobility. with a stock wrist attachment system, a smaller range of movement is possible

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Forward now to get it done some day. 

Closure issues once again seem to gather to padding and specifically to the break area. Yellow XRD foam is in steep angle towards right while it should be pretty flat in the picture with the glove in open position.


Funny how the exact same looking felt+foam+aluminum foil material is used by CCM. Not that it's bad material at all, but two main manufacturers using the same. White thin soft foam sheet that was used in the 1X too. Doesn't really do much as it's pretty much flattened.


Then we get into the plastic and the rest of What's in there. Cracked plastic isn't surprice but I expected more at the thumb area due to it's flexing and wasn't expecting the classic wrist strap cracking. Well it's not completely done yet but happening. The plastic was covered with some MD foam all over and the cuff area with Curv had a second layer of it.

And there is the precious Curv! It is on both sides of the wrist plate in addition to the plastic. What's the use of it? I don't know as there has been lots of catchers before that didn't need any reinforcement there and made it with only the plastic sheet. Maybe the designer had some great idea that just doesn't show.


So I need to make a new plastic which was expected.

I had the soft parts being washed out in the mean time and then made some fixings right away. This is pretty easy glove as there aren't any big repairs to be done except the plastic sheet.

First turned the pinky loop around, soft side against finger.


Then the same for the thumb loop and while getting it set up I fixed the wrist/backhand strapping end to a new location. This attach is something I really don't know if it's going to work this way. Just can't tell before I get the glove back together with the base lacing in. It might rub my wrist too much or be too tight and pulling when trying to close the glove. The worst part is I have to figure out something completely different if it doesn't work this way.


And last part of repairs for now is the cuff flap. One more of those "let's see what it does" things. And easy to make changes if needed.


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Fixing the closure and break. Or atleast an attempt to that. 

First pictureis from the beginning. The original plastic is once again cut so that the break line doesn't go through the the palm but turns in over 10mm in the heel end. This has a big efefct on the hinge on the break. Sure this is only the 20-30% of the closure normally but still that amount is wasted right away.

The area that was in the first picture of the previous messagelooks ok here but the white nylon on top is really loose and lets the finger plastic to push out from the palm and sort of open while it should be only closing in when glove is closed. Like a hinge opening over 180 degree and then cannot be closed over that full open angle.


Then I opened some sewings to get the original plastic out and change the nylon lining to prevent the over opening and retain the proper range of motion for the break.

Quite easy to reflect the changes with both pictures side by side.


Then from old experiences I decided to make a new plastic to the palm with a bit more length to cover the heel of palm too. It is also a bit narrow compared to the original. This is not from break operation but just easier to fit the plastic in and prevent from stretching the nylon again as it was originally doing. 2mm thick plastic is used as was the original one. This piece don't have to be overly rigid to do it's job.


Then the padding is done and ready for the next phase. One thing to note that is different from almost all of the gloves I've done before. The holes for the main lace on the thumb side. Those have been off from where I'd like them to be. Usually some millimeters but some have been of over 20mm which is a lot. These holes however are pretty much spot on and only two of them I had to punch a 4mm hole on the side widening the original hole that much. I did a triple check before I could believe it and hopefully I didn't make any repeated mistake on the measurements.



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Bauer reads our threads and so added more CURV to your glove lol.



I have not told anyone yet - you will be the first, but on my 1C blocker, the board is also wrapped with CURV on both sides. I SUGGEST that this is done for greater rigidity. she's really, really tough. but it's a blocker, I have no idea why to use a strengthening effect for the glove

I have a lot to say after your update, but due to lack of language skills, while I jump from the topic page to the translator tab, the text is lost. so there are several posts. Sorry

Edited by ser33
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it seems to me that this is an offset from an incorrect assembly with mismatched holesDSC_0389_8x6.jpg.e5a29eb66669868ab9429d60bb98d8bd.jpg.24b7bc9ba4a75016237d32bff56814a5.jpg

It also seems to me that such a position of fastening the wrist will interfere with you and possibly rub your hand - there is really little room for the thumb. but we won't know until you try the finished glove. i hope i'm wrong



I understand correctly that you completely removed the elastic from this valve?


From my own experience, I want to warn you about one nuance. when putting on a glove, this valve, when it is too loose, clings to the chest sleeve and falls into the cuff. if you only put on a glove before ice, then this will not be a problem. and if, as I do during the ice time, you take off and put on, then this problem can arise at the most inopportune moment

Edited by ser33
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@ser33 I'll return to your comments when I get the glove into a state where these issues can be evaluated.

Then it's T time. Almost like classic British and still nothing alike.

Beginning, inside.


And outside. Very nice condition with only a bit of wear on the right end at the lip.


What's inside then is nothing spectacular but normal plastic sheets sewn onto a synthetic leather strip. The gap in the middle is wide though.


Took one from the inside too for some reason. The plastics are bent at the hinge points but not much. The lip was very stiff and kept the glove in a mid-closure position. The leather was also sewn into the lip, which gives some problems to DIY people if they want to change this setup.


Then the last seam opened to see to the inside. Nothing to see here actually so need to do this if you are just to change the support strip. If the lip was worn through you would have to open it this far to replace the jenpro. On positive side of the design the jenpro parts are straight rectangulars and leave less leftovers compared to more traditional design.


So what is the plan here? First thing is to add some 40mm of length to the lip. The perimeter of the glove was mere 109cm when I started and it really was optically small. Adding this much length will make a huge change on the covering area of the glove. Why is Bauer giving up this much in the perimeter? It cannot be explained by weight or center of gravity, adding this much material on T isn't doing a lot of change? This has been a tradition with Bauer gear since 1S/1X and seems to be continued.

The double T is usually sewn together at the boot and I'll release them and fix the teared one with some sewing. It's not broken yet but going to be sooner or later if not fixed now.

That's about it, not much but takes some time and effort to get it done.

If I did it properly and had enough jenpro available I would've changed the whole inside sheet to a new longer one and only extended the outside with smaller strips. But saving the expensive material which I don't have a lot available I made four small pieces:


They are to cover the old holes and add some extra length where the original material wasn't long enough. Then some sewing. Made a bit of a mistake here with the diagonal sewings that go along the break as these threads will get worn. Hopefully not too fast but they will. Those won't have a lot to do with things staying together as the material is doubled and there is no edge on the outside and these sews only connect the jenpro edges hidden inside. Making this whole piece from a new material would be a lot better choice. It's not a remarkable job with sewing machine so maybe one day I have the material and will to do it.


Then more sewing, attach the front and rear parts at the top and renew the lip seam too but without the leather-plastic strip in between. Easier to modify it later on when I begin the closure project. The outer ends of the lip turn in a bit and with second layer of material it wasn't really willing to do it so I left the ends unsewn and only did the middle part. The contrast between original Bauer white and the weave is exaggerated by the cameras white balance. It doesn't look that terrible IRL.


Still to do are the bindings and the support strip. I'm not sure if I should get rid of the original part and replace it with some new plastic pieces and a new leather. I would have to cut the original leather and maybe still had to replace the plastics so it might be even more work than make a new one straight away.

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  • 1 month later...

While having too much to do and some lacking in motivational side of life, some progress has been made.

New main plastic. It is very rough getting started -shape, but once again you can notice the straigth break line. Other than that the original shape of the plastic was very good and with only minimal sizing changes I tried to copy it. The optical look will change a lot after the molding to the final shapes. 


No after pictures was taken, sorry!

One comparison picture of the original plastic straightening out. The polystyrene is pretty much form proof and only breaks into pieces. I tried to mold the new plastic to the shape of the polystyrene the best I could. And it feels good in that shape. Kudos to Bauer for that. 


One picture of the mis-alignment at the break area. Red line implies the alignment of the second holes and the needle is through the other holes. Blue lines mimic the break lines of the Poron padding on the palm side as well as the plastic quided break on the outer (or is it inner?) shell. The padding with plastics is tied to the shell with cord (holes between blue lines). The pocket perimeter has to be aligned with these to work well. As we can tell from this picture here is a huge problem in this glove. And matching these holes affects some holes right next to them on the perimeter to correct the alignment as a whole.


Then some testing with the new extended T to see how it will work if at all.


This really isn't giving almost any realization here as you can tell from the clipped positions. It seemed like the T was moved a lot towards fingerside as the break of the T was almost off in this picture and the thumb side is already some 20mm pulled out.

But that was fixed later on. 😉

One thing I have to mention about Bauer catchers here is that they are extremely comfy to hand. Like if I took my skiing mitts made by Hestra. Those are comfortable and warm and feel nice. And then I take the Bauer catcher, let it be this US or 1X Vapor or Total One. These just add an extra level of comfort over the Hestra mitts. It's kind of unbelieveable how nice these gloves feel. 

Edited by ArdeFIN
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It's getting ready step by step. This process would've taken a day if I had the time in one continuous stretch.

Shortened the Ultra Long wrist strap to a loop, easier to pull it tight too. Note also the thumb loop ties. Easiest way to do it that I know of.


One picture of the glove with perimeter and body laces done. Looking good and feeling good too. The perimeter length was extended to about 113cm and there was a bit of a mishap as I made the holes ready for the thumb side first and the started to fit the break of T to work with the glove. And couldn't pull the T out from the finger side no more than 10mm and closer to none actually. Othervise the T break would leap too much to the finger side. Don't know exactly what happened here and why there is such a big change in alignment but it might have something to do with fixed break lining. 


One of the pocket sections done already. I used the old laces which are dirty but in good shape and will do for long time.

The mid lane might need a new lace as the original one is really short from the spines being very close to each other in the original setup. Now there is a noticeable gap in between.


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So this glove project was brought to ready state in a "gotta do it now" mentality.

Not much in pictorial story but then again the putting together part of the project was just a basic lace everything through as it was already pre-laced to see that everything fits in properly. Takes an hour of extra time to do the pre-setup but might save a lot of hours if some problem was found and fixed before the final setup.

The flap on the cuff seems to be of no problem @ser33 as I did sew the flap to above the cuff and not inside as it is originally made. Now it is pointing upwards as is and when I tried the glove on it did not interfere at all. I'd say there is a huge room for C/A forearm paddings. But sure is that the truth will be revealed on sunday when I'll take this one to realworld test.


Closure against floor, eh... ice is secure and tight even without pressing the glove down at all.


Comparing to the beginning the backhand finger protection looks to be workin again and is not stretched over finger tips area. The padding is really thin here and wouldn't be surpriced if someone would complain about getting their fingertips beaten. 


One thing I have to add back is some sort of elastic strap or lacing between the cuff and finger protector flap. I removed the elastic strap that went far under the finger protector but for the design of the cuff it now wants to come out and get stuck against the edge. All it needs is four holes and some elastic lace so not a big deal and easy to do without any dismantling. Cuff flap is pointing out really nicely with the glove wide open.


And last but not least is the glove wide open. Oh well not wide open but anyways. It's soft enough that you can open it more than in the picture without pushing the T in.

The break area is flat and the bends when closing the glove are pretty much lined up with the palm layers lines.

The midlane lacing is too tight to my likin and maybe needs some attention in the near future. This is because the new setup is with the two spines more separated from each other than they originally were. And I did the lacing a bit too dense too, which consumes extra lace.


I might add a few pictures of the closure and some details, and also fire up my quality scale to measure the weight. This glove doesn't feel really light actually so it's interesting to see the actual numbers.

One note about the feel of the glove. I don't know if Ultra Sonic should be a 600 style as the Hyperlite is pointed to 590. But I can't really feel any relation to 600 style. Actually more so is this towards the 590 but not as pronounced outlook. The closure is a bit like finger to base of thumb. Feels nice though but comparing to VE8 (which I really like a lot) there is a lot in similar. 

Edited by ArdeFIN
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One picture of the closure. Just a minor touch short on the thumb side as the T is leaning to 580 style which I wouldn't need at all here. 


Comparison picture from pre to now. Tried to take this one in a similar angle but only reference was the first picture in my mind. Pretty close photo success considering the preparation for this one. I can't tell if in the now picture the glove is more open or is it just that the plastics are so much differentöy shaped.



Last but not least. It is heavy weighting in 1094 grams. Some weight could be shaved off by removing the added Jenpro from the T and the "useless" Curv from the wrist area but that wouldn't make much.


I'll have to remember this issue when I dig into the 1X I have on shelves waiting, scale the skin only and padding and then scale some other glove for skin and padding separated. Extra 100g in a catcher means some physical mass slowness to hand movements.

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21 minutes ago, ser33 said:

I guess you have already tried the glove in action?) and judging by this comment, you liked it) incredible glove, isn't it?)

Yesterday yes. I don't know if it was the players giving me a good impression of my glove or was just the glove. Not my hand anyways 😅

But as I said earlier the feel of this glove is amazing. It's a plain pleasure to put your hand in and how the glove feels well balanced and not just an extension hanging there.

Catching was almost perfect with maybe 98% of the shots went right into the pocket. This is from one icetime only so there is a huge chance for luck too but definitely the Ultra Sonic is a keeper for me. And from earlier experience with 1X Vapor glove this explains a lot of it. With 1X I got a lot of the shots to my thumb area instead of pocket. With the Ultra Sonic having a different angle and shape the pucks hit the pocket.

This effect was mentioned in some article of Vaughn gloves explaining the differences between their at that time current models and how you should choose the right model from where the puck hits your glove. Seems to be right but at the same time might be pretty expensive to first try 1X and from that experience change to Supreme. Or 600 on CCM and then go to 590 or 580 🤑

Edited by ArdeFIN
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