My Own Ball Hockey Pads!

[havok]

I played my first game, pads were light, straps were great, I was really comfy...

I had to make adjustments to the knee area ans the velcro loop wouldnt allow me to slide all that much on the surface I was on, but the pads were light which allwoed me to still move freely..

I didn't play well but that's another story 

As everyone could've guessed, the paint is already smudging off, I will post pics, so I am thinking padskinz in strategic areas, cover them in a nylon (?) or just keep them ugly

Still hunting for some UHMW...

[Ghostender]

4 hours ago, havok said:

Still hunting for some UHMW...

@Ross - do you live in Victoria, or are you ordering from IP on-line? they have a great selection, but not necessarily the cheapest. If you are ordering on-line perhaps havok could as well (of course there's shipping etc).

[Ross]

I live in Victoria.

Havok, what thickness are you looking for?

[Ross]

I have a 12” x 24” x 1/8” piece of uhmw your welcome to have. 

Will find out cost to ship tp Montreal tomorrow.

[Steve_eclipse]

On 4/2/2018 at 11:04 AM, havok said:

I played my first game, pads were light, straps were great, I was really comfy...

I had to make adjustments to the knee area ans the velcro loop wouldnt allow me to slide all that much on the surface I was on, but the pads were light which allwoed me to still move freely..

I didn't play well but that's another story 

As everyone could've guessed, the paint is already smudging off, I will post pics, so I am thinking padskinz in strategic areas, cover them in a nylon (?) or just keep them ugly

Still hunting for some UHMW...

Hey Havok!

I'm a Montrealer too! 

Where do you play ball hockey? MBHL, PTM?

I play both (ice and ball) for many years....I was going to try the sliders but felt that I'll stick to the way the pads are.

Let me know your thoughts if you go that route!

Cheers,

Steve

[havok]

Hey dude! Right now I am a back up and fill in everywhere, I started out in PTM 18 years ago! Used to be THE place to play, but so many good leagues have popped up since!

I played a few time for MBHL, but getting to the WEST ISLAND is tough for me...

I finally found someone to sell me black UHMW. So I am waiting for it to be ready.  My only worry is cutting, but it'll only be 1/8th so shouldn't be too hard.

I also ordered Padskinz, it won't cover the whole pad, and that spray paint will come off but it'll look better.

[Steve_eclipse]

Cool!

I've done the PadSkinz on a blocker and trapper.....but the outcome was so so. I actually got the guys at Monkey Sports (West-Island) to re-do it for me.

The patience level is too high for me!

[Ross]

Cutting the 1/8” uhmw is fairly easy with a razor knife, it takes a couple of passes and then it’s done.

Here’s a couple pictures showing how I make my sliders. After cutting a piece out I cover it with masking tape and mark on the finished shape with rounded corners and then mark where I want the dimples. I peen the dimples in using a screw drill bit and a hammer. Make sure to do this on a soft piece of wood. Putting the dimples in will curve the piece but it’s easy to straighten out/flatten by hand .Then you can round the corners and edges using a grinder or a file. I put adhesive backed loop Velcro on the piece and have hook Velcro on my pads so I can take them on or off. Takes about 15 minutes to make each piece.

[havok]

Oh man, this is GOLD ! thanks

I dont have a long drill bit, but i do have large Allen keys with rubberized ends that i will use, very similar like your drill bit there.

So this weekend I should be busy, i just hope i get the UHMW! (they close early)

[Ghostender]

That's not a drill bit: what he has shown is a Robertson screwdriver bit designer to be used in a drill or cordless screwdriver. It also appears he has used the hex end. You can probably just get a section of say 1/4" round bad and round the tip to make nice hemispherical dimples.

[Ross]

Correct Ghostender, I used the the hex end.

[havok]

So I finally got to work on the pads this weekend. And they don't call me the "Anti" handy man for nothing..

First off I fee that 1/8th is too thick, I chose that thickness because it was the thinnest in black, next time I am definitely doing like Ross and using 1/16.

I used a utility knife to cut out the pieces and it took forever to slice, i would break them off out of impatience, and caused the pieces to be "ugly". I filed and clipped the edges to make sure they weren't sharp. I wanted to bevel the pieces like Ross, but again I think 1/8th is too thick, i couldn't even get a bump, just a bunch of circles LOL. So I gave up on that part.

I affixed the pieces with industrial velcro, they seem to be pretty sturdy. They do come out from the pad a bit and I'm scared that other teams may see this as a "cheat",

I will test them in game to see if despite their ugliness, they still do their job.

I suck at working with any material, and I don't have the real tools to do this, BUT I will try again, but this time I will get them professionally cut to my specs, I wanted to try this out for the first time ever and glad I had a chance to do it! Thanks Ross for all the instructions and advice!

[Ghostender]

5 hours ago, havok said:

...First off I fee that 1/8th is too thick, I chose that thickness because it was the thinnest in black, next time I am definitely doing like Ross and using 1/16.

I used a utility knife to cut out the pieces and it took forever to slice, i would break them off out of impatience, and caused the pieces to be "ugly". I filed and clipped the edges to make sure they weren't sharp. I wanted to bevel the pieces like Ross, but again I think 1/8th is too thick, i couldn't even get a bump, just a bunch of circles LOL. So I gave up on that part....

Yeah, don't beat yourself up over that. You are correct in that the 1/8" thick is pretty tough and time consuming to cut with  utility knife. I have an electric scroll saw (and radial arm saw) that would I use on that type of stuff. If you know anyone with a scroll, table or radial arm saw (possibly even a chop saw would work if the parts are too long) I would ask for a "beer swap" favour!

[havok]

So I played my first game last night, and everything held up! I am shocked (I am the anti-Handyman)

They helped with the sliding, but these an issue with the pads, that i noticed even before adding the plates, when I push the pad, it rolls under me after a bit, I've never had pads do that before, the issue seems to be where my knee is landing, its not landing flat on the knee block but in the corner between the pad and block, there's a gap there, i shifted the knee lifts and it helped but it still does it. I am sure i can google the solution though and get to the bottom of it.

Another thing i noticed is I have to adjust my 5-hole, so anyone going from REEBOK/CCM to Bauer, it may be an adjustment period.

All that's left is the Padskinz, the paint is chipping everywhere, but whatever, as long as the pads perform like they are supposed to.

[Ghostender]

3 hours ago, havok said:

They helped with the sliding, but these an issue with the pads, that i noticed even before adding the plates, when I push the pad, it rolls under me after a bit, I've never had pads do that before, the issue seems to be where my knee is landing, its not landing flat on the knee block but in the corner between the pad and block, there's a gap there, i shifted the knee lifts and it helped but it still does it. I am sure i can google the solution though and get to the bottom of it.

I think your analysis is valid. I have the same thing where my knee lands low in the knee block (can actually fall out on occasion) and I get that pad roll from time to time. Also my pads being older have a pretty soft knee block and spongy landing surface (V2s):  looking at yours, this may be the case as well (albeit to a lesser extent). I suspect this isn't as much of an issue on newer pads with a fairly stiff knee block and the fact the knee block is very firmly integrated into the body of the pad

[havok]

On March 27, 2018 at 9:37 PM, Ghostender said:

@havok perhaps seek out someone who does value added with UHMW and see if they have scraps they would sell or even allow you to pick out of a bin (I get  lot of scrap aluminum odds and ends from my shop's recycle bin I use for all sorts of projects)

That's my best bet, you're right

theres a dude on Kijiji selling my exact pads with the sliders and he did just that, so ill have to got to a shop...

[havok]

So I guess I should end this topic with an update

i ordered Padskiz but wasn't clear when I got quoted for a logo and well got the wrong sized  item

i applied the Parskinz and was so bad at it that I just gave up and left em as is

so they are officially called my FUGLY Pads, they'll do the job but I have to admit defeat and call this project a Fail LOL

SO @Ross my offer still stands if you ever make a new set of pads I jut like yours

i attached a picture but took it from far as its too embarrassing to show  all the errors

live and learn. LOL