Is a cowling necessary for an inline goalie skate?

[bunnyman666]

17 minutes ago, Chenner29 said:

I've seen guys cut the tendon guard off as well.  One of my buddies did this to a pair of Vapor XXXXs when they first came out.
Should be pretty easy to patch over the cut with some jenpro or padskinz to make it look nice.

I wouldn't worry about messing with the chassis.  They're gonna get dented no matter what.

Edit: What you could do is possible add slide plates to the chassis if you wanted to get fancy...

I could see just cutting the tendon guard. I just like the Vaughn boot so well. Rigging a size 9 cowling that I would then have laces go through could make me a pretty sweet set up.

I think I do want to get a bit fancy just because I want to prevent it from getting too bent up. That would solve the “bent so bad my wheels don’t move” syndrome...

[bunnyman666]

Update: bought some Customlite cowlings in a size 9 to cut up. Also bought lacrosse head dye from Throne of String, which is supposed to be a great dye that does not  weaken the plastic if directions are followed. I am dying the cowling grey. Why grey? Why not? I may see how to marbelise the cowling for shits and giggles. Apparently, there will be enough powder to dye my spare Vaughn cowlings if I am in love with grey cowlings. I think their black dyes pretty true to black unlike Rit dye. But I wanted grey, which looks pretty tough. I may spray the chassis with bedliner paint to carry the industrial look over...

Ultimately, I decided to just use the player chassis since I will not be using this set up all that much; just adding another option in order to play if called upon. I am converting a cheap pair of pads for roller use, following suggestions on how to make them slideable from the self-made ball hockey pads thread. The great thing about low end pads is that they are pretty light weight. 

I will need goalie wheels, no? What would be a good, all-purpose durometer for indoors and out? Or do I pick one condition? 

Do I wear a lighter CA or do I sweat it with my regular CA for protection? I have a funny feeling the answer will be the latter, rather than the former...

Any guidelines on mounting the chassis? 

[dreadlockgoalie]

17 hours ago, bunnyman666 said:

And one more thing: thanks for the offer.

No problem!

[MTH]

I wear harder wheels on the rear and stickier ones on the front. Helps slide when needed and push off the toes.

[MTH]

As for body - where are you playing? Rink I play in likes to open the doors on the warm days rather than pump air. It's great for goalies who are more than 250 pounds. 

I wear my normal Vaughn Velocity CA. I had an old Bauer Reactor I used to use for roller (mostly when playing back to back nights - so it was dry). But I ended up loaning that out for a few years now.

When I get real warm playing roller - I go sans jersey.

As for wheel durometer - you're going to have to play with a few before you figure out what you like. Some dudes go three wheels. Two up front and the last one only. I think that's what I'm doing too now. I know I pick up cheap wheels of eBay that I mess around with. With my size, the softer wheels tend to chunk out after time. Also I have to flip them as I wear the inside edge of the wheels out.

Part of reason why I want to go large ass wheels now.

Plus being 6'2" already - added height just messes more with the guys I play against. I already I hear I take up too much net. Top Tip - that's the point. 

[bunnyman666]

1 hour ago, dreadlockgoalie said:

No problem!

If you end up letting go of the chassis and cowling, I still want that as I want a sturdier chassis if I can get it. Just don’t want to spend full freight for brand new if you know what I am saying. 

[bunnyman666]

38 minutes ago, MTH said:

I wear harder wheels on the rear and stickier ones on the front. Helps slide when needed and push off the toes.

Good to know.

31 minutes ago, MTH said:

As for body - where are you playing? Rink I play in likes to open the doors on the warm days rather than pump air. It's great for goalies who are more than 250 pounds. 

I wear my normal Vaughn Velocity CA. I had an old Bauer Reactor I used to use for roller (mostly when playing back to back nights - so it was dry). But I ended up loaning that out for a few years now.

When I get real warm playing roller - I go sans jersey.

As for wheel durometer - you're going to have to play with a few before you figure out what you like. Some dudes go three wheels. Two up front and the last one only. I think that's what I'm doing too now. I know I pick up cheap wheels of eBay that I mess around with. With my size, the softer wheels tend to chunk out after time. Also I have to flip them as I wear the inside edge of the wheels out.

Part of reason why I want to go large ass wheels now.

Plus being 6'2" already - added height just messes more with the guys I play against. I already I hear I take up too much net. Top Tip - that's the point. 

That’s the rub- I could be playing either at the local Y or outdoors in the park. With our warm summers, it could get quite gross outdoors. 

I think I will go with pretty hard wheels, as it looks like super soft would only possibly benefit for special occasions. 

Lots to think about here. Thanks for the  guidelines.

[CalValce]

I would be hesitant to do anything over a 72mm as the max height either in back of a hi-lo or a straight frame.

Siding with Maria Mountian (and my own experience) the taller height of steel/wheels isn't always a benefit, it can add stress to the joints.

on my set up I use Konixx pure +0 68 and 72mm hi lo. I did 72 76 and found while the added height and able to 'keep my edges' longer ended up putting added stress on my hips and knees.

If you are worried about the durometer of the wheel and going indoor/outdoor the Labeda Shooter is a good all around wheel, either those of the medium (yellow) Labeda Grippers

on my next pair of skates I might go back to the straight 59mm patriot frame

[bunnyman666]

8 minutes ago, CalValce said:

I would be hesitant to do anything over a 72mm as the max height either in back of a hi-lo or a straight frame.

Siding with Maria Mountian (and my own experience) the taller height of steel/wheels isn't always a benefit, it can add stress to the joints.

on my set up I use Konixx pure +0 68 and 72mm hi lo. I did 72 76 and found while the added height and able to 'keep my edges' longer ended up putting added stress on my hips and knees.

If you are worried about the durometer of the wheel and going indoor/outdoor the Labeda Shooter is a good all around wheel, either those of the medium (yellow) Labeda Grippers

on my next pair of skates I might go back to the straight 59mm patriot frame

LOL all I need is to worry about straining my joints after getting my colon removed! I will go as short as I can find.

[bunnyman666]

Nope- no Customlite cowlings for this ol’ rabbit! 

I will patiently wait for more suitable chassis and a cowling bit. No deadline on this since my return to any skating is off a bit distant.

[SaveByRichter35]

I have Bauer goal skates which I chopped off the blade and mounted a Labeda Predator chassis.  If you can find one anywhere, get it.  Its a 5 wheel goalie specific chassis.  Has a nice opening at the toe for toe ties and a big opening at the heel for a boot strap if you still use it.  You can use 59mm or 48mm wheels I believe.  I think the really tiny wheels we 48mm.  Maybe 52mm?  Can't remember, its been a while. 

When I played I always went soft for sportcourt, ice court, etc; and hard for cement, asphalt, etc.  I don't remember which wheels I used specifically, it was probably Labeda grippers.  It also may have been a goalie specific wheel, I don't remember.  I do know I used all 59mm wheels.

I never had to do the whole drill a hole in the toe of the cowling method in order for me to use my toe ties.  I just removed the toe bridge(of those Vaughns you got from me to be exact) and ran the laces directly through the holes in the pad that the screw/posts for the toe bridge utilized.  I then knotted the lace right beneath each hole so the laces wouldn't shift.  I then knotted the two laces together about 1" down on each lace.  From there I laced the toe ties just the same as I did for ice.  I never had a problem with laces rubbing wheels or wheels getting caught up in any other way.  I know I have pictures of my setup somewhere in the inline section of the GSBB if you wanna go searching.  

I also may still have an old pair of Bauer Supreme 3000 skates that has that Tuuk cowling you're looking for.  I don't remember if I ever sold them, I will have to check when I get home.  If I do they're an 8D which might work well with those 7.5 Vaughn boots.

[bunnyman666]

1 hour ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

I have Bauer goal skates which I chopped off the blade and mounted a Labeda Predator chassis.  If you can find one anywhere, get it.  Its a 5 wheel goalie specific chassis.  Has a nice opening at the toe for toe ties and a big opening at the heel for a boot strap if you still use it.  You can use 59mm or 48mm wheels I believe.  I think the really tiny wheels we 48mm.  Maybe 52mm?  Can't remember, its been a while. 

When I played I always went soft for sportcourt, ice court, etc; and hard for cement, asphalt, etc.  I don't remember which wheels I used specifically, it was probably Labeda grippers.  It also may have been a goalie specific wheel, I don't remember.  I do know I used all 59mm wheels.

I never had to do the whole drill a hole in the toe of the cowling method in order for me to use my toe ties.  I just removed the toe bridge(of those Vaughns you got from me to be exact) and ran the laces directly through the holes in the pad that the screw/posts for the toe bridge utilized.  I then knotted the lace right beneath each hole so the laces wouldn't shift.  I then knotted the two laces together about 1" down on each lace.  From there I laced the toe ties just the same as I did for ice.  I never had a problem with laces rubbing wheels or wheels getting caught up in any other way.  I know I have pictures of my setup somewhere in the inline section of the GSBB if you wanna go searching.  

I also may still have an old pair of Bauer Supreme 3000 skates that has that Tuuk cowling you're looking for.  I don't remember if I ever sold them, I will have to check when I get home.  If I do they're an 8D which might work well with those 7.5 Vaughn boots.

Now I have to look in GSBB...

I am having a tough time finding the old cowlings cheap, or even in my size. I found some that were unsuitable that weren’t flat on the inside. But some were going as expensive as $100 per pair! The funniest thing is that those cowlings are probably going unsold. I am not going to pay a ridiculous price for them to cut the runners off. I may just need to go to PIAS and look for a knackered pair of boots. 

Let me know if you sold those 3000 boots.   

Thanks for your input.

[Chenner29]

I used a chopped Bauer 7000 boot and cowling with a Labeda Predator 5 wheel chassis. 

59mm Labeda Milleniums were the wheelbase. 

I think the smaller size wheel was 42mm, I don’t recommend those as the one time I tried them I felt like I was skating in mud. 

You can also look for a Suregrip chassis, those were the next most popular option.  They were a few millimeters taller than the Labedas, and I don’t think they had a cross piece running width wise through the frame so I think they were more prone to denting; on the other hand, this also made it easier to bend back out. 

[cuprajake]

15 hours ago, CalValce said:

I would be hesitant to do anything over a 72mm as the max height either in back of a hi-lo or a straight frame.

Siding with Maria Mountian (and my own experience) the taller height of steel/wheels isn't always a benefit, it can add stress to the joints.

on my set up I use Konixx pure +0 68 and 72mm hi lo. I did 72 76 and found while the added height and able to 'keep my edges' longer ended up putting added stress on my hips and knees.

If you are worried about the durometer of the wheel and going indoor/outdoor the Labeda Shooter is a good all around wheel, either those of the medium (yellow) Labeda Grippers

on my next pair of skates I might go back to the straight 59mm patriot frame

interesting, 

ive noticed a drop off in hip mobility, which coincides with me moving to bigger wheels

jake

[long_road]

Not sure if this is entirely related, but you guys have touched on it here so I figure I'll ask -

I've always played inline goalie in regular player skates. In fact, because of my obnoxiously large feet (size 16 shoe) I've seldom even had hockey skates. I just wear Roces or Rollerblade brand fitness skates. I've never had any major problems with the "cowl" (in the case of fitness skates it's usually just some plastic and neoprene) not being protective enough. But I usually add some foam/tape to the bottom of my pad's boot/toe to help with slides. That tends to also protect my skate toes from shots. I'm old btw, been doing it this way for 20 years.

Anyway, I've recently been looking into getting a pair of ice goalie skates that fit me and removing the blade and adding a labeda goalie roller chassis. I'm tall (6'5") so I've always had it in my mind that I'm up too high in player skates even if I use smaller diameter wheels. 

Is there any general consensus on the advantages/disadvantages of being lower on true goalie skates vs higher on regular player skates? I guess the height difference is minimal, but it seems like it'd help with snapping down in the butterfly quicker if I were on true goalie skates.

[CalValce]

4 hours ago, long_road said:

Not sure if this is entirely related, but you guys have touched on it here so I figure I'll ask -

I've always played inline goalie in regular player skates. In fact, because of my obnoxiously large feet (size 16 shoe) I've seldom even had hockey skates. I just wear Roces or Rollerblade brand fitness skates. I've never had any major problems with the "cowl" (in the case of fitness skates it's usually just some plastic and neoprene) not being protective enough. But I usually add some foam/tape to the bottom of my pad's boot/toe to help with slides. That tends to also protect my skate toes from shots. I'm old btw, been doing it this way for 20 years.

Anyway, I've recently been looking into getting a pair of ice goalie skates that fit me and removing the blade and adding a labeda goalie roller chassis. I'm tall (6'5") so I've always had it in my mind that I'm up too high in player skates even if I use smaller diameter wheels. 

Is there any general consensus on the advantages/disadvantages of being lower on true goalie skates vs higher on regular player skates? I guess the height difference is minimal, but it seems like it'd help with snapping down in the butterfly quicker if I were on true goalie skates.

In my experience, having used both goalie cowling/cowlingless and true/VH. The height is predicated on the chassis/wheel setup you are running, you could do a player straight frame and run all 80mm you could also run 59mm. The traditional goalie chassis are either 4 or 5 wheel with a max wheel height of 59mm.

You can get the 'height' of a player skate by running a hi-lo setup with 68mm/72mm. You wont be as tall as you would on the player skates with a 76mm/80mm set up but you would get the extra clearance/attack angle with the 68/72.

My 2 cents, the goalie boot and the way its cut is more comfortable than a player skate used for goalie. I also skate out, for me its a mental switch of goalie skate for goalie and player skate for player.

[dreadlockgoalie]

On 5/10/2018 at 10:58 AM, bunnyman666 said:

If you end up letting go of the chassis and cowling, I still want that as I want a sturdier chassis if I can get it. Just don’t want to spend full freight for brand new if you know what I am saying. 

I'll let you know what happens after I drop by the shop this weekend. 

The Labeda is a solid chassis, I like it much better than the old Bauer version that took only tiny 47mm wheels.  I'm fairly certain you can go up to 59?  I'm sure I have an extra set of wheels lying around to that I'll double check.

4 hours ago, long_road said:

Not sure if this is entirely related, but you guys have touched on it here so I figure I'll ask -

I've always played inline goalie in regular player skates. In fact, because of my obnoxiously large feet (size 16 shoe) I've seldom even had hockey skates. I just wear Roces or Rollerblade brand fitness skates. I've never had any major problems with the "cowl" (in the case of fitness skates it's usually just some plastic and neoprene) not being protective enough. But I usually add some foam/tape to the bottom of my pad's boot/toe to help with slides. That tends to also protect my skate toes from shots. I'm old btw, been doing it this way for 20 years.

Anyway, I've recently been looking into getting a pair of ice goalie skates that fit me and removing the blade and adding a labeda goalie roller chassis. I'm tall (6'5") so I've always had it in my mind that I'm up too high in player skates even if I use smaller diameter wheels. 

Is there any general consensus on the advantages/disadvantages of being lower on true goalie skates vs higher on regular player skates? I guess the height difference is minimal, but it seems like it'd help with snapping down in the butterfly quicker if I were on true goalie skates.

I've always felt the lower stance of goalie skates over player skates helped me get down faster in roller and the smaller wheel/lower chassis made me feel a little more stable on wheels.  But it might honestly just be a personal preference, same as tall vs regular steel.

[SaveByRichter35]

16 hours ago, bunnyman666 said:

Now I have to look in GSBB...

I am having a tough time finding the old cowlings cheap, or even in my size. I found some that were unsuitable that weren’t flat on the inside. But some were going as expensive as $100 per pair! The funniest thing is that those cowlings are probably going unsold. I am not going to pay a ridiculous price for them to cut the runners off. I may just need to go to PIAS and look for a knackered pair of boots. 

Let me know if you sold those 3000 boots.   

Thanks for your input.

I apologize, by the time I had gotten home from work last night I was shot and went right to bed and totally forgot to check on the skates.  Did I say they were Bauer 3000s?  They're definitely 1000s, that I know for sure.  Must have been a typo.  

I just tried to go look for my post on GSBB and I can't even get the website to load.  The antivirus software on my work computer is going nuts trying to get the website to load.

15 hours ago, Chenner29 said:

I used a chopped Bauer 7000 boot and cowling with a Labeda Predator 5 wheel chassis. 

59mm Labeda Milleniums were the wheelbase. 

I think the smaller size wheel was 42mm, I don’t recommend those as the one time I tried them I felt like I was skating in mud. 

You can also look for a Suregrip chassis, those were the next most popular option.  They were a few millimeters taller than the Labedas, and I don’t think they had a cross piece running width wise through the frame so I think they were more prone to denting; on the other hand, this also made it easier to bend back out. 

42mm, that's it.  Yea those wheels sucked, I always used 59mm.  I was never a fan of the Suregrip chassis as its just a solid chunk of metal.  There was no room to run a boot strap or toe ties.  Granted, when I played there was no such thing as Pro Laces and all this other stuff so you may not even need to worry about the additional holes now.  

[bunnyman666]

20 minutes ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

I apologize, by the time I had gotten home from work last night I was shot and went right to bed and totally forgot to check on the skates.  Did I say they were Bauer 3000s?  They're definitely 1000s, that I know for sure.  Must have been a typo.  

I just tried to go look for my post on GSBB and I can't even get the website to load.  The antivirus software on my work computer is going nuts trying to get the website to load.

42mm, that's it.  Yea those wheels sucked, I always used 59mm.  I was never a fan of the Suregrip chassis as its just a solid chunk of metal.  There was no room to run a boot strap or toe ties.  Granted, when I played there was no such thing as Pro Laces and all this other stuff so you may not even need to worry about the additional holes now.  

I wonder what the cowling is like on the 1000? I know that the ICM are not suitable due to the fact that they are not flat on the bottom like the TUUK. 

Thanks for checking.

[SaveByRichter35]

The cowlings are all the same across the Supreme line, 1000 3000 7000.  Its a regular tuuk cowling.

Edit - Same as these except white

[bunnyman666]

13 minutes ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

The cowlings are all the same across the Supreme line, 1000 3000 7000.  Its a regular tuuk cowling.

Edit - Same as these except white

Then they would work!

[SaveByRichter35]

3 minutes ago, bunnyman666 said:

Then they would work!

Its the same cowling I cut the blade off of and mounted the Labeda chassis to, it should work no problem.

[bunnyman666]

2 minutes ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

Its the same cowling I cut the blade off of and mounted the Labeda chassis to, it should work no problem.

Coolness!!!

[cuprajake]

Mine that I use. 

Love them 

[bunnyman666]

15 minutes ago, cuprajake said:

Mine that I use. 

Love them 

That would avoid the cowling question...