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craig

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Everything posted by craig

  1. That 298 is a thing of beauty. Nice collection.
  2. My new mask from Michel. Such a pleasure to work with. Giguere mould Extended chin Roy vent pattern Roy backplate Roy cage Lefebvre style clips
  3. Thanks for the kind words Rich. And props to you for reaching out in the first place. Glad your buddy could make use of it... or will soon I guess. Let me know what he thinks. And yep... its an Eddy GT L
  4. Its off an early 90's Eddy Mask I had when I was a kid. The small adult shell. From when Eddy first came out and they had both the Eddy Mask and Goaltec brands. Funny enough it bolted right up.
  5. No clue. This is the only one I've ever seen. I never actually saw OTNY offer these on their website. I remember there being talk of doing a group buy back in the GSBB days. Way back. I also contacted OTNY about many years ago and didn't get a response. I doubt they'd even do a run of them now unless the numbers were really high. Olympia Composites offers a few variants of this cage, but their prices are a little steep... especially for us north of the border.
  6. Thanks. I created a plug from an existing 282. To do this I fused the helmet at the adjustment points and blended the seams. I also removed the logo and the trim around the ears. Once all the openings were closed off and blended I made a two piece mould off of the plug in traditional fashion. I chose to keep all of the vent holes except for the ones at the very top/back. I also drilled holes for the two common cage mount positions. The helmet I posted was the first pull from the mould. Its a fibreglass/epoxy lay-up. A little on the thick side, but not bad for a first pull. I used it mostly to figure out hole layout .etc. A gazillion small square holes is a pain in the a$$!!!!. Defiantly going to do another one in the future... but I have other things on my radar.
  7. Heres a project I recently completed. I put it on my Instagram but I might as well post it here too. I've been picking at it for the past few years. I love wearing old Jofas, but having a young family I worry about wearing 30 year old plastic on my 30+ year old head. Composite Jofa 282 replica (yep...a clone). Tried to stay as true to the original design as possible while removing anything I thought wasn't needed (logo, rivet holes, adjustment points) before creating the mold. Did the chin cup in black vinyl with a vertical stitch pattern. Cage is by OTNY I believe. Got it off eBay many years ago. This was a lot of work but overall I'm happy with how it came out
  8. Barrhaven Definitely though about it. Trying to break the habit of hoarding old gear.
  9. I did flip them over to look. Was pretty standard for the era. Almost flat leg channel. Just a small knee flap and I think a small piece of calf protection. All nylon straps though.
  10. Not exactly Passau's, but this seems like the appropriate place. 10 year old me would've lost his shit if he came across these at PIAS. These were definitely top of the list for me 25+ years ago but were out of reach when new. Still a really cool design to this day.
  11. I'd be interested to know this too. @RichMan I still have your black Reidic shell in my shop and I should really refurb it one of these days. If no cages exist I will probably just find the best fit from the cages I have and redrill where I need to. An oem cage would be nice though.
  12. I've come across more than a handful claims like these. Deposit accepted and no mask delivered or taking years to deliver and requiring constant hounding. I also believe Pros Choice was started because Dom had a really negative experience trying to get a mask made by Greg when he was young and decided just to make his own mask. You also have to keep in mind that Gregs first NHL masks here almost exact Higgins clones. Doesn't make others copying his stuff right, but it kind makes it hard to feel bad for him. There is other stuff he did that was already brought up in this thread that I'm not going to drag back up.
  13. That's the thing though, a lot of these guys are making better versions (Coveted, OTNY, ProtechSport). At least as far as the base materials go. And I really don't want to start a mask war so I'll leave it at that. And I actually agree with you that reputable companies should stick to their own designs. I just don't think its fair to give Pro's Choice a pass for attempting to do the same as the others. I think Dom's most recent non-960 style shell is actually his nicest and I feel he wouldn't lose much business if he stuck to that. "To each their own" seems to be the conclusion to everything on this thread though.
  14. How is this ethically any different than what OTNY does (or Coveted, or Protechsport .etc). A Pros Choice may lack the sharp contours since making it uses a completely different process (layed up over a plug instead a negative mold) which doesn't lend well to that style, but the builder is attempting to make his mask look like a Bauer 961 (ridges, profile, hole layout). I think there are several degrees of wrongness happening in this cloning practice. I feel like the mask world can be broken down as follows (but could apply to paint or equipment as well): -companies that make direct copies of masks using similar or worse materials and processes with the sole purpose of undercutting the competition. -companies/builders that see opportunity in masks being priced way to high for what they are and/or using sub-par materials and take it upon themselves to improve on either of those points OR that are approached by customers wanting a certain shape mask made by someone other than the original designed/builder -hobbyists who copy masks because they love doing it Are all of these wrong? I know at least one person thinks so. If anything this article/thread has really got me thinking.
  15. This is an Eddy cage. Pretty similar but the perimeter wire is one piece and has one weld mid way up the side The cage Michel uses has a perimeter wire thats made up of four pieces and is welded at the top and bottom of each side. This is how Harrison did it back in the day. Probably a carry over from when his masks just had cut down HM30s @FIFTY-SIX, that blue mask is a beauty. Thats how all paint should be.
  16. Looks like those are OTNY Harrison cages (the long version). I believe Michel stocks them.
  17. I was defiantly heading in a good direction with it. I wanted to use it for mask testing as well as for training. I hit a wall with the lack of power from the junkyard parts I used. I also had trouble with the hopper and loading. Worked well sometimes, but would also get stuck a lot. I eventually wanted it mounted on a moving based that would be powered by an Arduino. Then we had a few kids... I might dig it out of the attic again one day and mess around. A catapult would be great for testing because it would be simple and consistent. But wouldn't really work as a training tool as it would be slow to reload and would require another person.
  18. I made this a few years ago. Only really worked with ball hockey balls. Didn’t have enough power to move pucks quickly. I had kids and forgot all about it until now. Good times. I guess video embedding doesn't work with uploaded videos. Uploaded to Youtube
  19. Look around locally first for sure. I know there used to be quite a few guys in the states that would do refurbs. I know Warwick does them. But I'm not sure if that's only their masks... or others as well. Last I looked I know Ray was done doing refurbs but was still making foam kits. That's always an option too. If you can't find anyone and would be willing to ship your mask north of the border, PM me and let me know what you're looking to have done.
  20. I believe it was proprietary. Don would know for sure. I've seen closed cell foams that look similar. But I've never seen an Armadilla in person so its hard to say. Depends what you're painting it with and how much you're taking off of it. If you're using automotive paints you should follow the guidelines of the paint being used. Standard rule of thumb is get everything up to 220 grit before priming (grits used before depend on the condition of the surface), then work up to 400 grit for a single stage urethane or 600 grit for basecoat/clearcoat. All sanding after priming is generally wet sanded. Theres a bit of a learning curve with this kind of stuff if you want to do it right. It also requires special tools/equipment and consumables that most people don't have kicking around their garage. You could always do the dirty work yourself and delegate the final steps to a painter or someone in the autobody industry if you're going with a simple design. This is about as involved as it gets for a refurb. Final product will be nice if its done right though.
  21. Ah. OK. I'm in Ontario, might be too much of a pain. Does anyone in the States still refurb?
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