Jump to content

ArdeFIN

Members
  • Content Count

    306
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by ArdeFIN

  1. One more picture from the inside of the pocket. It might a bit more to how the laces go around each other and the spine. This webbing is incredibly fast when you get to the style and just do it because of the dual lace. It's so quick to route the 1 meter lace through there compared to the original style where you start the job with whole 2,5m of lace to pull through. Also the first lace is super fast to do, second one takes much longer to find all the right loops. But still quick. The second web to this pocket, after training with the first, took me about 10 minutes to complete. The first
  2. Then we take the second lace and it gets a bit more tricky. Through the loop - under the earlier lace - hook with the earlier lace to make new loops and inside out at the spine. Then over and towards inside the earlier lace and then through the loop of the same lace that is going on at the moment! Open up the earlier lace so you find the upgoing lace and inwards through the loop and outwards again from the same lace loop. Then over the earlier lace, through the end loop and under the lace and up again. Leave a loop, open the earlier lace to find the other one
  3. So the all famous Brians webbing. Well not that famous and what ever. But it's different from the others. Let's see how I copy this one, it's not the perfect copy but atleast looks pretty much identical. So we start by taking a lace of about 250cm for this Subzero. Lip of the T has two holes to make the starting point. In this Brians the holes are in the middle, usually those are right next to the binding. Won't affect the webbing though. So the picture tells it better than my writing. Equal length on both ends. Take the "top" lace and leave the other one alone. Through th
  4. Not much left to say. Pocket made in Brians style or atleast close to it. A bit stiff operation on the glove and the nature is revealed when we get back on ice for a real test. Tennisball was easy to catch atleast so it's not too bad from the beginning. What this glove is, it's huge visually. The smaller palm area might do the trick here. I like this style, pocket is the place I want the puck to go. Goaliepro is a local dealer/retailer for Brians. But I wasn't able to figure out what in this glove was custom. Except for the text.
  5. Not so much for today. It's getting into the shape, T is fitted in with plastic supports in. Boot is yet to be done but now that I know the setup is working well it is quickly done. Now it is going to get tight literally but hopefully not too much as there is quite a lot of tightening to be done to stuff all the padding in. And it's possible that it then transfers to operating the glove, now it's like butter, not my Simmons like butter, with good feeling in it. Would be desirable for it to stay that way. I actually did quite a lot of work for this little achievement of getting the T
  6. Ooh my beloved Subzero! Here we go again! So finally the jenpro shipment is in and I've waited for so long that I almost run to garage to continue with this one. Using the old sheet as a model I drew the outline and cut it out with a few mm extra to make sure. Jenpro does shrink a bit mostly on where it is bent or sort of flattened. It'll return with a slight stretch but it's difficult to draw the outline while stretching the sheet by not too much. Then some sewing and while there I added a new leather inserts inside the lip and sew the ends together to make a flat and thin edge
  7. Some research and invention done and here are some of the improvements to be tried on: First the bicep which is the most critical from popular opinions. Thickest outer layer moved under the plastic and inner foam to outside. This also gives a bit more soft coverage to edges but slighly narrows the area covered by the plastic sheet. Plastic sheet is shaped more flat towards the puck from full round. This should give some room for the added LD foam to the inside next to bicep. In the picture the foam is too wide, it only needs to cover the the area under the middle of the plastic sheet
  8. So it seems that long chin is actually sort of a higher chin all the way to the rear end of the mask. Weight difference might also be somewhat noticeable?
  9. I don't see any reason why that NHL spec C/A couldn't be mass produced? And that makes a heck lot of difference in costs. 10 units hand built is the same as prototype 10 units and then make the molds for the parts and start mass production. Sure the material costs are a bit higher for the NHL spec than normal pro, but not that much, no way. Designing a product is what costs money, a lot of it. And after all, look at the Supreme from Bauer. 2S is very much the same outlook as S27. So there is a lot of the same included regardless of level of the thing. The product line could be:
  10. A bit of a long joyrney from Tampere especially on these times of Corona. We'll see if we get to play hockey before Christmas if this disease is spreading faster and faster again. Well you can sit down and watch television while getting used to your new armour and get ready for the games in the future.
  11. That might be a clever thing moving that clip from the chin to the backplate? It won't be hit and broken by a puck. If that never happens actually? I would imagine it to be as easy to snap on to the back plate than to the chin when putting mask on. Yes I do open those straps when I put my mask on and take it off. The weight of the mask is still missing? Can you get the difference in weight between short and long chin? It's not much anyways but just for curiosity. And short vs long chin in the same picture to compare? I like the colours of the black-green, that neon is shining o
  12. Like that color scheme and graphics. Simple and a bit different somehow. I got myself into a situation where I had to buy myself a new mask, Bauer NME IX. New unused for half of the new price. Having my REY CK still in painting (for half a year now!) I thought I'd better get another for now. NME5 moves to the reserve -position. Remains to be seen if the REY will fit me well and which of the masks will take the regular position. Picture from web for those of you who haven't seen a Bauer mask 😁
  13. Good looking thing. Would be nice to see this IRL. It keeps me amazed why those big two Bauer and CCM build "NHL only" gear and sell regular customers something downgraded from that. Invest a lot of money to design something special for those few NHL guys (and maybe AHL etc) and then spend some more to design something completely else for regular customers. Like we don't face hefty slapshots or close range snapshots.
  14. There's some more involved than just Warrior palm but you sure get the big picture of it for CCM. I think the biggest thing to solve for doing this mod with Speedy stitcher is the thumb attachment. Backhand velcro sheets are easy to do and finger protectors should go pretty easy with speedy too, atleast if you do the Warrior style and go through the protectors with those velcros like I did with this Vaughn.
  15. When something gets into your mind it'll annoy you forever. So I had to fix sewing there while I had a chance. Now the sew goes in nice straight line and is like it should. From inside it looks like this. Between the sideplates. The pillow is missing here but that's only a pillow in white nylon. Then I was going to insert the plating when I realised those aren't repaired yet. The top 1mm PE plate has gotten quite a lot of puck beating and needs to be warmed and flattened in press. Also the bottom soft foam was ripped off from glue and that was re-glued obv
  16. Closes yes, but can you open it wide?
  17. ArdeFIN

    Repalming blocker

    Using a Warrior palm isn't a big job at all if you just switch the old one to Warrior. It should to the original attachments and all without needing much modification. You can check out my V3 7500 blocker repair topic if you haven't yet. There is a bit more extreme way to the Warrior palm mod. Feel free to ask for details if you need some knowledge, structure is familiar to me now having dismantled one 7500 blocker.
  18. Today it began to get back together. First some holes to finger protector: Then added a similar piece of jenpro to the base of the blocker, moved it some 10mm forward to give room for bigger palm and longer fingers: And the side plate which is on the picture above too: The far edge on the right was a bit of a difficulty to sew with my machine as it is so thinspace inside and I'm trying to go without more undoing of the edge and binding. I managed it quite well though and only thing I would fix is that the whole side plate is sewn few millimeter off from th
  19. Todays achievements: The glove isn't washed yet so it is really that dirty and will be atleast a bit better after wash. I went with Warriors style to attach the fingers to protectors, through and velcro because the dark grey flaps gave some trouble. To bottom I added about 15mm of jenpro to attach the flaps to blocker itself and adding some 15mm of height to cover the longer fingers of the Warrior palm. And my hand. Next I'll add the same flap to the blocker and punch some holes to tie things up. Then some more sewing with sideplates and then to the wash
  20. I like the idea of those doubled shoulder floaters and that chest and belly area paddig. Good job. I just might get some ideas from this to my own VE8 project.
  21. ArdeFIN

    Hands drifting

    @Quadzilla32 I have the exact same problem here with same definition from starting not so long ago and just trying to improve what ever I can. Starting with my hands in position when puck comes into zone, then after some passes to corner - blue line etc I notice that my hands drift in badly kind of I'm going into blocking mode waiting for the shot to come instead of actively going to make the save when I need to. When the attack is fast I usually make good saves as my hands are in the good position to be active. I think this is a thing of automation. My, and yours, hands are automati
  22. Then the bicep protection. Outside foam 10mm And inside foam 8mm Missing the total thickness picture but that should account to 20mm. So it definitely is light but protection is lacking badly. The perforated foam would make the inside more breathable without giving out anything in protection. The foam outside the plastic softens the rebound but that's almost it. If this armour was to be used in ball game where there is a big surface hitting you it would work pretty well I think. But against a puck with such a small hitting surface the energy will come through.
  23. Then the thickness of the materials. Plastic is the common PE and 2mm thick. Enough for the job. Profiled with a few waves for rigidity. For the fore arm part: Total 16mm Inside foam 8mm Perforated foam on the outside 6mm
  24. Here's two pictures of the hand protection, first both parts from outside, forearm closer. The structure is simple and ... well ... just isn't enough. But it's light anyways so something is good. Forearm part from inside. I'd do this just the opposite way for the foams. The perfored one (and thicker on bicep) to inside and solid to the outside. Also I would thinner the outside even more and move the thickness to inside foam and add some extra there.
  25. Thanks. A little bit forward again, actually involved quite a lot of sewing for so modest progress. Added the velcro for palm attachment. Moved the wrist strap loop end 10mm towards wrist and installed it into the seam instead of flat surface. Now it's more on line with the strap itself. Finished the seam with palm attachment sidepanel which originally was more forward and upside down. Now I have a bit more surface for the strap holes. And fixed that hole at the end of side panel. Noted this earlier already but Vaughn uses their special white jenpro which isn't easily avail
×
×
  • Create New...