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ArdeFIN

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Everything posted by ArdeFIN

  1. Is it already 2023 when we see a full line of Konekts starting from the hobby level and up? I have no real problems with my S29 skates except for the flex on the ankle. That I could see an improvement for me having some ankle pain at times which possibly comes from the limited ankle flex. It's not terrible so I'm not looking to spend lots of money for an experiment.
  2. I thought I'd get a chance to try different angles on Warrior and bought a -50% G3 liner in 90 degree. My G4 has 75 degree. But as you can see from the crappy gif animation, they are the same except for minor details on stiching etc. Strapping is in a different angle too but I don't think that makes any significant difference to the feel. I am disappointed. The G3 liners are sold out but I might still find some G4 in 60 degree or 90 degree to make a comparison between these to see what is going on...
  3. Could've made some comparison at local shop but I was more interested in the G6 catcher. The pocket appeared optically massive. Like MASSIVE. Which I consider an achievement since the G4 which I have for comparison isn't really small and has all of the 114cm circumference in use. On G4 there really isn't a lot of surface that they could've replaced with pocket. And Warrior still managed to do it. I don't know if it is a real benefit to have more pocket area but atleast it should help catching the pucks inside the pocket and give a few popouts less. Off the shelf all of the samples they had were pretty easy to close but opening wide was not possible. But knowing that Warrior has been easy to break in it should be manageale.
  4. Yes you could. And that is where I see Warrior has used some time. The plate has that slope towards the face of the pad which I would say is really difficult to heat mold back to flat which is what most other brands pads are. Second shaped thing are the long radius curves on the other end of the plates. I don't think any other brand has anything even close. This put together, if you are able to do that modifying, you make your own a lot easier. And they will be better than modifying those Warrior ones.
  5. I can confirm this. For me Vapor is a no go, Supreme (Total one and US for me) is delighful. CCM Premier with 590 is good and the 600 Eflex is terrbile. Vaughn VE8 is one of my favourites, SLR I'm yet to test but some recall from SLR predecessor is I didn't get into it at all. Which only tells that when we try to explain the assortment with too limited choises it's not working. For CCM and their famous numbers it works as they make only gloves that resemble the figures. But so many things change in glove design that when some other manufacturers gloves are taken those famous numbers cannot be used to describe as it just isn't the same in any measure.
  6. Looking at how detailed the shapes are and sort of made to fit G6 I doubt there is a huge chance of making the Warrior plates to fit anything else in easy way. From marketing viewpoint it is obvious that the plates won't fit other pads and Warrior has used some time to make sure the plates are shaped so that it is somewhat difficult to make them fit. This slideplate thing is something others don't offer. Yet.
  7. @insertnamehere Here's the most clear and explaining picture of what I've made. A lot more complicated solution than @jerd31 with the edges bent in instead of straight sheet. This plate is for Vaughn LT88 pads (and similar) which you can tell from the slight curve on one edge. The knee wing on those pads is attached to the pad through curved joint area. Material is 2mm thick PE which I have in storage for all gear purposes anyway. It's thick enough to hold the shape properly and still very easy and quick to mold with heat gun. Even 1mm would work but I'm not really confident to try it and then again I don't really have a reason as the 2mm is doing fine. I've made one set from 3mm thick sheet but that was a nightmare to mold compared to 2mm thick. Polycarbonate (PC) is the next thing I'll try out as I have some available at work to make sample pieces. This is more of test between materials as in all videos the Warrior plates are sliding like butter on a hot pan and my PE made plates slide easy but not really effortless. Here's a picture of my G5 implementation. A more complicated desing than Warriors and covering the whole knee wing and not just the knee stack. This is after a few ice times when I sent the pads to Kova Repairs for the core change. While the plates don't really have space to move around they still have the knee wing drawn into them. I like to use the lace as an attachment, it's easy to drill four holes on proper spots and then route the lace through the knee stack. Doesn't have to be tight but just enough that the plate stays on the right place. Why I like the edges turned in atleast a few mm? It makes the plate just that much more rigid while it doesn't have much of an effect except holding the plate better on place. And it propably prevents the plate edges from catching any roughness on the ice. I really don't know if that would ever be an issue though. Some videos of my butterfly slides where I have PE plates on (GT pads but similar knee wing cover). Nothing to compare those to though but you get the idea of slide. Looking at these now makes me wonder even more that the PC might be sliding a lot more than PE.
  8. Can't help but thinking I had a bisnes idea worth of a few bucks on my hands when I first made my PE sliders about three years ago. Should've just invited it a bit more to make it as universal as possible and sell them to every second goalie out there. But then again remembering that whenever I've shown my plates and telling how nice it is to slide around effortlessly nobody wasn't interested. Before now that Warrior has these out. Yet following these conversations in many places there's a lot of people who don't believe in the idea at all and try to take it down with "you'll slide over" or "how can you stop" or "you don't need to slide that much" or the classic "don't skip the leg day and you don't need these"... The basic thing why anything innovative or new is so hard to bring into the business is that many of us are so sceptical as long as nobody (good enough) tries and proofs it to be good. Konekt is similar example, remember the first comments? And still there are comments like why are so many people selling them after a few ice times, there has to be something wrong with them. Get them plates to try them out at least, I think they are kind of game changers at least from jenpro. I can't compare to Bauer as haven't tried them, Vaughn has good slide on their Quick slide material (same as Brians' Primo) but I would still wrap the knee block with plastic sheet on them too because of the stabile sliding from beginning to end that @CJ Boiss mentioned. Actually I've found the slide to be best when you shuffle your crease in the beginning to have a little snow to start from. Snow on crease is a constant thing after that and no surprises on the slide.
  9. Reading all this hype about these make me wanna try the polycarbonate plastic to see if there is significant difference against my PE plastic ones. The polycarbonate sounds like it would be sliding even more but then again I do know the difference between jenpro and PE which is already huge. Would give one more option to this world of better slide if the plastics had different characteristics on slide. Luckily I have some PC available at work so it's only the molding I have to do. And maybe need some practise before as there might be a bit different behavior between PE and PC. You can't do that as there is not enough friction, you have to learn to use your steels to push. Also if you have ankle mobility, you can steer your slide somewhat with your toes even without touching the ice with steel. Definitely needs some practise, I've been learning this sliding for few years now and develop every time I'm on ice.
  10. Yes, I removed the bumb as I hate how it forces my paddle to turn against my pads or the other choice is to hold the blocker in odd angle.
  11. Actually no, Curv from what I've seen is some sort of plastic infused fibermat, but best of them all so far. It has good flexibility but it still hold up the structural rigidity atleast in the Vapor 2X blocker that I quickly examined a while ago. Hypercomp is more like a normal fiber sheet with resin. In these gloves it is used as a plain sheet and in cathcer it is attached to the plastic in some specific process. That seems to hold very well but the problem is that the plastic that the Hypercomp is added to isn't up to the task. Or maybe it is the Hypercomp that didn't hold. I thought I had some more pictures of it but can't find them or I just didn't take them. One picture from pre-assembly to see that everything fits in and are about in the right shape. There is a bit of an issue with the new finger plastic and the fixed edge. The plastic is pushing towards the break line and I might have to add a lace line to where my fingers end inside to hold the plastic in place. Then a few pictures of the ready gloves together. I'll take them to test round on sunday. I'm not really impressed with the pocket yet as I used the original laces that are the annoying stiff type that has been used by CCM earlier. Too bad that Warrior is possibly using it too. I'll propably redo the pocket later with skate lace or if I can source some black lace then I'll use that. I made the pocket with one loop less than the original to make it a bit more loose or easier to see through. Not that I would ever look through the pocket but. Well yeah. The other thing is the glove angle, I now have the 75 degree palm and it feels just a little off to a way that I think a 90 degree would work better. I have one 90 degree palm for Warrior available locally but not sure of the model so I might have to check it out if the 75 isn't my thingy. And if the Warrior catcher is what I like at all.
  12. Then some pictures of the plates. I have to replace both of them because there is some damage. The Hypercomp again oh well I don't know how much it really does here. The plastic that Warrior uses here is very stiff even without the Hypercomp addition. Maybe it does add something that you can actually notice but it's hard to say from looking the materials and civilized quessing. And if you got to compare Pro and SR you would have to check the internal that the padding is the same too. The thin strip at the break is the usual milky PE plastic though, for some reason no Hypercomp is needed there. Edge if the finger plate. Thumb side plastic is destroyed. The glove propably wasn't really good anymore but it felt as a working one though. And once again without comparison to a new gear you couldn't tell. I would assume that the thumb side of the T was a bit floppy and could let the pucks through. The massive concavity on this plastic makes it really difficult to replace and I'm going to try and make it more straigth and only retain all the shapes that are necessary for the closure to work like it should.
  13. So the glove had some significant wear on the finger edge that had to be dealt with. And from previous gloves I know this is shitty job as my sewing machine isn't just strong enough to penetrate all the layers and there are many. So I had to make some hidden cutouts to help my machine a bit. It's kind of annoying that they have so many zones there and sure it makes the colored glover look nice. But there is a lot of extra sewing job to do. So I took all of the zone pieces out and replaced them with new jenpro. And some artistic added stitching... The binding is worn but I don't have anything to put there and it'll wear out again anyways. Then the part I was worried about was sewing everything together again. I had some from cutting out the stacked layers and went pretty smoothly after all. Some worn sewings were renewed too and I added a piece of jenpro to the boot area of the T as it would fail sooner or later. Gear heads want to see what's inside, here's the padding layer. Cuff is the usual thick board build just like the blocker except no plate. It's meant to be a bit soft? Palm has a layer of some 5mm thick and stiff foam with nylon fabric. (White balance in picture is way off the target) Side view of the cuff plate.
  14. I just yesterday had a chance to check some gear while I had my steels sharpened and there were Axis 2.9 and Axis 2 gloves and yes I tried them first. Cheez they were stiff, like STIFF. And more stiff than that. I wasn't able to close any of the four samples there were. The closest I got was about an inch open. Sure I could close them with a bit of help from my other hand but. Yeah. And that said I don't have to say anything about how much I was able to open them. No I wasn't. Other than that I couldn't say they felt bad or odd. The angles of them and not just break angle were a different story and I might have some trouble getting into that. Not even close to the traditional 590 shape. But I'm not saying it would be bad. Just that it felt and looked a lot more different than I would've expected.
  15. Finally I had all the parts ready and could put everything back together. I might have to add some foam to backhand of the palm as I have to tighten the wrist strap a lot and it still feels a bit wobbly. Only the palm shows some actual wear in these pictures.
  16. There was some nasty wear propably from using tape on the stick. And that had to be repaired for practising reason atleast. The thumb protector was easy with just a new seam. Sewed this with the outside on top so I didn't see what was happening in the inside and didn't catch the nylon fabric perfectly. But it'll hold. On the outside there still some wear to see but it doesn't have any effect other than looks used. The Index finger protector was more difficult as the structure was designed horribly. Though propably not designed to be repaired but these parts are still laced in and not sewn. A slice of new jenpro to cover the worn area and I had to cut a 5mm from the edge under the jenpro to get it done. Looks sharp and still protects th fingers as it should. Actually works better now to my liking as it doesn't push my paddle and let's me hold the blocker in line with it. Not the easiest repair I've done while looks really simple. Might get this done easier in the next time but I'm certainly not looking for it. Then some plate job. The Hypercomp was destroyed so loyal PE sheet in 2mm thickness was used. I also added a sheet of 5mm thick dense but soft foam to beef the blocker a bit as the original plate had shrunk a lot from pucks and hitting the post with the edges.
  17. Don't try to stretch anything but make them all properly even. The plastics will keep everything in shape and laces hold the layers together. Seems that you have the pocket end of the break messed up in some way and it is now rolling over itself. This is the area I've had a fight with most of the gloves I've done so far. It's a result of use and needs variety of tricks as far as I know. And unfortunately I can't give any proper advice that would do miracles here. If you have a picture of the padding layer that would help. Atleast I might be able to point you the possible problem areas. Edit: Uh you had the padding layer there earlier, then how about the thumb plastic?
  18. Don't know the names but you should see how they look now...
  19. I've already checked the famous HyperComp in the G4Pro refurbish thread so nothing really new in the first picture. Sidewall on this blocker was soft and bent badly right where the stick/paddle extends out from the glove. Plastic joint or splice or what ever tech they use to bond these carbon layers together has failed. Really doesn't look very promising material to me. Then it gets worse. At first I thought someone already had opened the glove and replaced the plate but that hadn't happened. Why had they changed the main material from that thick and dense resilient foam to the styrofoam? Less weight might be the reason. But that results in shortened lifetime: On the front side of the board there is dense and stiff layer of foamed plastic and in front of that a plate made of atleast 7 layers of clear plastic. And the plastic sheet is as destroyed as the foams are. It might be that the plastic layer isn't up to the task of protecting the softer layers underneath it or that the foams are just too brittle to handle the strikes from the pucks and when the foams collapse behind the plastic sheet it looses the support and breaks into pieces too. Measurement of the board in millimeters. After I opened this thing to see what's inside I immediately checked Finnish Facebook goalie gear market place and found two G5 blockers for sale. Other one looked from the images to be in the same condition as this blocker is and the other mentioned in the text that the board feels a bit crumbled on the front. Hopefully Warrior changed the materials for G6 back to what they had in G4 or something new and better. Ah yes, this blocker was used by U18 goalie not playing in the top level here in Finland. So not the best of shots but still a lot of use as they do train many times a week plus games.
  20. Here's a short 2 pic story of how to fix simple hole on blockers finger. This mod is easily done with needle and strong sewing thread, speedystitcher etc. So there are holes on thumb where the stronger leather patches end long before finger tip which causes this issue. You want to use your finger tip to get a grip of your stick. Another hole is on the index finger just where the reinforcement layer end. Not surprising either and very common to happen. This hole was the issue that lead my friend to ask me to fix this glove as the leather is so worn that the hole is taking over the material quickly. I had some excess pieces of suregrip or whatever it is called but anything from jenpro to real leather goes. Jenpro might not be the best choice though. Open up the sewing on index finger edges and cut out the worn piece of material. Use that cutout to shape a new piece. Sew it in. If you are using sewing machine or just want more room anyway check if you can disconnect the finger protector and that you can attach it again when ready. Thumb was easier techvise; remove the elastic connecting the finger tip to protector, cut a new material to cover the hole and enough extra to reach over the old reinforcement material. Sew in and reattach the elastic and it's done. If using a sewing machine then you have to open the thumb farther than you need to add new material to get the machine in. It takes an hour or two but the feel of the glove is a lot better without those annoying holes. You can't really feel the edges on materials of the index finger even that you can clearly see them. I should've washed this glove but my friend was in a hurry to get this back to use...
  21. This is what I mean with long finger side. The 580 is extended far out compared to other glove models. Green line in picture should be square to the break line on the palm.
  22. After a very long quiet looking after I finally got this one to reset myself back to Warrior chesty feeling. Almost back to square one but that would actually be RBK 9K and I still own that thing Wasn't really cheap but only about 10 times used so pretty much brand new including new gear smell. Only found one puck mark on elbow floater and one on shoulder floater. And after some re-setting and rethinking I feel like I'm home again. Hopefully I feel the same after I get this to the real test.
  23. We do have some palms available here in Europe but unfortunately the shipping will add 10-15€ to the price so it'll be pretty expensive palm option. I don't know if you could deduct the VAT (24% in Finland) if you can find a store that would ship to US/CAN.
  24. The overall shape looks different if you compare to todays 580 perimeter. Fingerside is way short towards the T. Was @coopaloop1234 new Axis 2 gear in the New gear topic where there was a 580. Other than that this looks 580; break line is close to wrist and lot of similarity to 590 in the perimeter shape. For the T shape and closure, any T can be made to close like 580. You only need to add length to the finger side plastic and shorten the thumb side. That'll force the T to fold towards thumb. And when you want to fix T closure to be straigth do the opposite. Only 5mm would already do the magic.
  25. Thought I'd pick an example of making new holes and found one from the Opt1k 9.0 topic. This is a good example of how to mess up closure and operation generally. And with these re-alignments it became really good. Even with added padding layer. One thing to take of when making measurements for new holes, remember to mark them when glove is shut and check again when wide open. There will be extra material in break area when wide open as the palm layer is "stretched" when glove is closed and if you only measure and make holes with glove open it will propably be unable to close at all.
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