bunnyman666

Bummer. I had two sets of new size 7.

@Puckstopper has a decent solution, but if it were me, a last resort. Kydex is great stuff and I make extensive usage of it.

What size boot?

A lot of plastic like that doesn’t stick to epoxy; however, there are other glues that do stick. Then you have the problem of reinforcing around the area; unlike carbon fibre and wood repairs, it will not be stronger in that area when repaired. I would certainly see if someone could replace the toe cap before trying any DIY.

Of course I am not cool enough to hang with Jerry…

I have the flexibility of a cigar store Indian; it would be worse if I didn’t stretch.

As will PAW.

I think equipment specs will likely be left alone with the growing numbers of 8 and 10 goal games. The modern stick, combined with great technique taught in off-ice training really makes shots super hard to read. I can see an open blade and the shot stays on the ice. Closed blade could still mean the puck goes over your shoulder, or a lacrosse/Michigan goal. Or a fake Michigan like I was burnt on. Some slippery tape isn’t going to make much of a difference with how puck handling has improved dramatically over the last twenty years. Had Brett Hull not practised his Vodka/Tonic game and did some golfball training with his stick, he would have been even more dangerous!

In the end, we have to remember that slap shots were once banned (with the exception of black hockey) and were once seen as hot dog moves.

I was beaten by a fake Michigan. The guy I was supposed to watch out for pretended to pick up the puck. He acted like he had it on his stick, but he didn’t, as his winger picked up an easy back door goal.

Thank you.

Running the boot strap through the Lundy loop on the skate would raise the boot.

I just wonder if anyone offers an “extra flumpy” option…

Because I reskinned using a whooped Cooper blocker.

I have modded a modern set of pads to be as flumpy as they can be: outer rolls are less dependable as springy and fewer hot rebounds. Now that I have paid more homage to Irbe, they’re ugly and flumpy. Flumpy pads RULE.

The problem is that people can hide behind their keyboard. I admit to being guilty of the last minute pull out in years past, but well understood that it wastes the seller’s time. I have had it paid back. As far as asking permission: DON’T. I mean, unless your singular mode of transportation was screwed up or you ended up with a life-changing surgery that you have no clue how things will turn out, don’t back out of the sale or otherwise jerk someone around. For me, a response saying “wish I could afford; GLWS” is acceptable; doing that mid-deal is terrible.

That’s a bummer that you can’t get a replacement. I would actually see if you couldn’t have the toe cap replaced by a good repair person before attempting a DIY repair. Depending on what materials were used in the construction, it may not take epoxy as some plastics will not stick to epoxy. If you can’t find anyone to replace the toe cap, that’s when you would gamble a DIY repair. I know that I would attach the toe from a cowling after the repair!

We essentially ask a non-flexible material to flex like leather. This allows that forward flex.

You can try it. I just have a feeling that the Bauer isn’t going to be off by much and you’ll be in almost all of the same places when it’s all said and done.

If the boot is soft enough, you probably could wear the pad lower on the leg and you would be good.

Hello! Love your handle, BTW. Vaughn pads of that build spec settle as they are stuffed pads and don’t use a core. Without seeing measurements and such, the thigh drop could be anywhere from 10-14” as thigh rises weren’t capped at that time, so for all intents and purposes, they could be 34+4” for all we know. The boots have become shorter to accommodate the ability to wear the pad higher on the calf with the assistance of a Lundy loop and professor strap so a taller thigh rise can be made legal. The way pads are measured these days are vastly different than just ten years ago, and you’re comparing custom pads to stock. You can give the same sets of measurements to three manufacturers and have three different sizes of pads! For example: I am a 31+1” in CCM, but a 32+1” in Factory Mad and 33+1” in PAW and they feel identical on the leg where my parts land! Bauer has led the way in fit ranges going back to the Supreme pads and Reactor 6000 series. Surprisingly enough, they pretty well hit it on the nose for size averages.

WTB Thickslicks, one brake lever, and attitude:

So far, not much of a reaction!

Another Crew Defender. Amazon cutie rims, Visiontech base bars, Blackwell aerobars and brake lever, Dia Compe Hombre BMX brakes, Sinz grips on base and aero bars. Flite neon green stem pad for the BMX element to go along with the half-link chain. Soon to be installed: WTB ThickSlick tyres in white. I remember what it’s like to ride fast on this bike.