dreadlocked1

Just an fyi the 8k was not a pro model. It was 6k for the lowest senior model and 8k was a step up. The 6k felt like cardboard and may have been okay for ball hockey. I'm sure the 8k may have been okay for inline but they had a pro model on top of all that that would have been much more appropriate for ice. I used 6k pads for inline and they only lasted because I had slide plates on them. They did turn into Vaughn pads after a few years. So squishy. Hope everthing works out.

Where did you obtain this c/a? I got a small one off sideline swap and it had the same issue and was repaired terribly. I saw another on sideline that had the same issue. The material itself seems robust so it's either a terrible stitch job or someone with severe stubble is burning through these things and selling them off lol.

It's a much beefier and overall bigger unit. I make the regular seniors work at 5'6" but feel they'd be way too big to move well in my pants.

Warrior pants are made so the small has the shortest length compared to the other larger sizes that have longer leg lengths. I bought the senior small to make my pants and pads interfere with each other less. They're a tiny bit tight, but that's because I'm around 220 lbs., and 5'6", so it's on me to lose some weight and make more space.

They clearly are flat after the stitch and rounded before the stitch to the toes, which is also rounded which means it probably does have elastic in them at the toe.

Same on everything. I have the old full gel which was getting a little worn and two of the 2nd gen gels (which weren't as good, as my 2nd had the new sections of foam separate in 2 places after just a month of use and they agreed and sent me a replacement/3rd which has lasted much longer). I got to keep the defective one and it will still work, and because it broke in a couple spots in the neck, folds nicely as a backup in my gearbag. Would never play without one, its worth carrying as a backup (anyone else pack a goalie underwear extra bag?). I need to reskin as well. Fabric stores carry the material now, just have to know what you're doing. Which I don't. I don't think PAW fixes other brands gear anymore, but would email to confirm. So in summary, 1st gen Maltese neck/clav combo is where it's at. Perfect unit, and you could custom order back then because people had different needs (collar height, neck dips, +/- on the clav). I found wearing the clav under your shirt, directly on the skin and the rear fabric hanging outside the shirt, helped hold the neck guard still and I've been wearing these for probably 13 years.

Correct.

I have several in this thread. Let me know if you need more.

Bungee cord loop and a carabiner.

Would you sell just the gloves?

You're not gonna make a wallet, are you?

Goalie Monkey has buy two get one free

That's basically the stock setup on the G2s minus the Velcro to pull the thighrise down. You had to buy the leather strap kit, but you could do this. I seem recall the NHL forcing the new G2 wearers to add the leather strap at the knee. Crazy as it's normal now, but I think this was innovative. You can bring the crappy thin knee elastic down to the calf and remove the flap. Which I did (and used one flap on my c/a). Once the knee elastic had worn out and deciding to get replacements, I instead added Kennesky professor straps and removed the knee elastic altogether. Works well. Sorry this is not a deal or steal (except for your life-time) and I appreciate all of you that add useful information to this thread.

Sorry to hear. Mine kept me out 2 or 3 months. Hard to walk for weeks. Couldn't flare my leg sideways for over a month. Take the time off.

Can an expert look at or measure my steel to tell me what radius I have from the factory on some decade old Bauer S160s? I play well in whatever it is (always a 3/8ths cut on the 4mm steel) and am concerned when these finally fail (boot tendon area is ripping) that I may not like the new 3mm steel on these newer skates I have waiting. I would want to copy what I have unless the steel mm change affects everything else too much.

Have you searched sideline swap? I saw a few sets of cowlings on there.

I would get a cowling from goalie monkey's clearance section, one 80 or one 100 series, if they have your size, and try them as is before cutting them if needed. Only if you're set on modifying your rollers. It might be worth just trying another brand or series of ice skate. You could find a good deal on sideline swap and sell again if they don't work out as well as well the ones you don't like now. As part of this goalie community, I'm sure we'd all rather see a project posted with a ton of photos and results that we'd all enjoy reading about. But time is precious and experiments can be expensive and can fail. Either way, keep us posted. Off-topic but I wanted to mention that your pictures illustrate what forced me to change some of my foot work between skate styles. I was used to Tour skates for 5-6 years before I got Mission Inhaler skates (much closer to Bauers and ice skates in general). The Tour cowling goes past the wheel, so you can drag your toes around pointed straight down at the floor, but the Mission's wheel extended past the cowling and that motion was prohibited by the wheel. That was a rude wakeup call to my subconscious leg movements. It made transitioning to ice easier though after having gotten used to it. That was almost a decade ago and I still miss being able to do that to this day. If there's a goalie ice skate that has that, please let me know.

What works for me is to tighten my skates all the way up, stand up in them, make sure my heel is dug into the boot, then sit back down and unlace them, then relace them to where each section is tight, but not full-strength pulling tight. Kinda like a prebake and final tie up. Yes it takes longer, but it works for me. And lately I've been leaving some slack after the top eyelets and making the knot for my ankles to be able to bend forward more easily. I used to get the feet burning too until I tried a Shock Doctor foot bed ( no longer made of course) and this lacing method and now I almost never have an uncomfortable skate. And wax laces all the way for the locking (I find Howies to be the best, most consistent quality). Shift the entire lace in the boot over an inch after 6 months or so to get fresh waxy lace back in the eyelet area. Then change about once a year. Your mileage may vary.

No problem and good luck!

About 10"

I have these. I think they're a size 7.5 skate.

Hockeytron.com has decent outdoor wheels. I bought some and have used them.

Can't see your toe ties, but if you're using skate lace, I suggest moving to elastic when possible. You have a professor strap on there already. If that were my pad, I would remove the heel buckle and knee elastic altogether (how my Warrior pads are now). I would bet you the pad would function the same if not better. It looks very crowded at the knee, and things could be binding up. Since that may be too drastic of a change, at minimum, I would pull the knee elastic down to the calf instead of across to open up the knee channel a bit (how I used to wear my Warriors). Seeing the inner landing padding bending into the side of your knee from the knee strap could be causing an issue with your knee pads. Just a guess and some suggestions. Hope your issue gets resolved.

Pics are not working for me.

Was gonna say the mirror thing as well. Watch your videos in a mirror and you have instant full-right.