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Ross

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Ross last won the day on December 27 2019

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  1. For floor hockey yes I’m still using my own goalie pads. I just installed a set of Kenesky Speed Sliders on them. I’ve only used them once with the speed sliders but they seem to slide better than the hook Velcro I was using before.
  2. I sometimes play against a young goalie who has a really good glove hand and on breakaways he really moves it out in front and moves it around, doesn’ keep it stationary. I started doing the same and for me it helps. As Martin Brodeur says - "I try to get his attention, say I wave my glove at him when he's coming in so he knows I'm ready for the top shelf," Brodeur said. "I'll move my blocker or fake a poke check if he's looking at me."
  3. Ross

    Giving it a go

    https://www.sailrite.com/Sailrite-Fabricator-Sewing-Machine-in-Power-Stand-with-Workhorse-Servo-Motor. Servo motors are great for controlled detailed sewing.
  4. There’s a good video on the members only InGoal Magazine site of Carter Hutton where he talks about taping his ankles. He says it gives him better side to side support but still allows for good forward flex.
  5. I be been using some Poron foam around the area where my cage contacts the mask. Noticeably better than not having it. Would like to get some D30 foam to try it with.
  6. Assembly of the shock cord: Fold the shock cord in half, so there is 13 feet on either side. Pass the folded end through one of the eyebolts on the end next to the 24” x 24” plywood. Pass the free ends of the shock cord through the folded end and pull tight. Run the 2 ends of the shock cord up and through the pulley at the far end. Run the ends of the shock cord back through the other pulley. Pass the ends of the shock cord through the eyebolt on the sliding platform.Run the ends of the shock cord through the pulley. Run the ends of the shock cord through the other pulley. Pass the ends of the shock cord through the last eye bolt. Tie the shock cord around itself using a figure 8 knot. Make sure the shock cord isn’t twisted and that the sliding platform moves smoothly when pushed. If you want more resistance then shorten the length of the shock cord. Apply a couple of layers of interlocking foam matts to the 24” x 24” plywood with the double side tape. . Give it a test and then go have a beer. If you need any more info let me know.
  7. Here’s the assembly: On one of the 15” long 2x4 pcs drill a hole in the middle/ center and screw an eye bolt in and attach a double pulley. On another 15” long 2x4 pc drill 3 holes, one in the middle/ center and then 2 on either side about 3” off center. Screw eye bolts into the holes and attach a double pulley to the center eye bolt. Assemble the frame using 2 pcs of the 72” 2x4 as side rails and use the 3 pcs of 15” 2 x4 as cross braces. Note the the piece with the single eye bolt goes at one end, the piece with no eye bolts goes at the other end and the piece with 3 eye bolts goes so it’s edge is 24” from the end. Predrill all deck screw holes and screw together with 3” deck screws. Now attach the other 2 pieces of 72” 2x4 so they lay flat against the side rails and are flush with the outside edges of the frame. Screw into place. The sliding platform has the 14 1/2” x 7” piece of 1/4” plywood as the bottom base. On top of this goes the 10 1/2” x 7” piece of 1/4” plywood, in the pictures I used 3 strips of 1/4” plywood instead. On top of this goes the 2 pcs of 10 7/8” 2x4. I used double sided tape to hold these parts together but you could also use glue or clamps. Make sure that there is equal amounts of the base plywood extending out on both sides. Screw together using 1 1/4” drywall screws. On one end of the sliding platform drill a hole in the center/ middle of one of the 2x4 and then screw in an eye bolt. Place the sliding platform between the rails of the frame , making sure that the eyebolt is facing the cross brace that has 3 eyebolts, and take a spare piece of 2x4 and wedge it underneath the sliding platform so that the platform is pressed up against the side rails. . If you are using the Glide Guards then attach them to the 18” x 7” piece of 1/4” plywood with double sided tape. Now this piece can be attached to the sliding platform. Make sure the edges are flush with the outside edge of the rails and then screw in place with drywall screws. Slide the platform fore and aft to make sure it moves smoothly. On top of the sliding platform attach the 9 1/4” piece of 2x4 with deck screws. Attach the 24” x 24” piece of 3/4” plywood to the top of the end of the frame. It should sit flush with the end of the frame and then extend equal amounts, 3”, out on the sides. Screw in place with drywall screws.
  8. Here are the cut sizes of the parts: 4 pcs 2x4 72” long 3 pcs 2x4 15” long 2 pcs 2x4 10 7/8” long 1 pcs 2x4 9 1/4” long 1 pc 1/4” plywood 14 1/2” x 7” 1 pc 1/4” plywood 18” x 7” 1 pc 1/4” plywood 10 1/2” x 7” - note on mine I used 3 strips of 1/4” plywood instead of a single piece as that’s all I had laying around. 1 pc 3/4” plywood 24” x 24” 2 pcs Glide Guard 18” long with raised edge on one side cut off.
  9. Here’s the first of a couple of posts showing how to make this thing. Bear with me as I don’t work for IKEA so I’m not used to writing assembly instructions. I took the one I made apart so I can show pictures of it going back together. With the exception of the shock cord you should be able to get everything from somewhere like Home Depot. Materials: 5 pcs 8’ 2x4 1 pc 24” x 24” 3/4” plywood 1 pc 24” x 24” 1/4” plywood 3” deck screws 1 1/4” drywall screws 5 pcs of 3” eye screws 2 pcs of double pulleys that are good for 3/8” rope. On mine I used a couple of really nice ball bearing pulleys that I had laying around from sailboats in the past. I checked Home Depot on the have some that should be ok. If you can’t get double pulleys then used 2 single pulleys instead. 26’ of good quality 3/16” shock cord. I got mine from a local marine store. Places like REI or Mountain Equipment Co Op should have it. I used a product called Glide Guard, that I had from a recent kitchen Reno, to reduce friction on the part that you push with your leg. I think it will work fine without it if you don’t want to buy it. A couple of pieces of foam interlocking floor tiles to go on the plywood that you rest your knee/ leg on. Tools: Drill with 1/8” bit Screwdrivers or bits that fit drill Tape measure Square Saw Doubled sided carpet tape. This works well for holding some parts together before screwing as well as holding the foam tiles to the plywood.
  10. I ‘ll post it tomorrow. Turkey time now.
  11. As I don’t get much time to work on my butterfly pushes when I’m on the ice I wanted to make something that would simulate the movement and also add a decent amount of resistance so that I build strength. I regularly do Maria Mountain’s exercises using resistant bands so I decided to take it a step further. Some 2 x 4’s, a couple of pulleys, a piece of plywood and some shock cord and I made this. I’ve had it for about a month now and I really notice a difference on the ice. I’ve got the shock cord tensioned so that it takes about a 35 lb force to start the push. This can be increased or decreased depending on the length of the shock cord. I like that the bottom of my foot rests on the corner of the block so it feels very similar to pushing the blade on ice. If anyone wants to make one I can give you dimensions etc... B05670BD-363B-4C39-9335-794DA88294D3.MOV
  12. Has anyone tried using foam on the outside of a mask? On the rest of our gear there is usually a layer of foam over top of the plastic, carbon, etc... Here’s a study that tried it on football helmets https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4142580/ This was mentioned in the study https://www.guardiansports.com/football/caps/
  13. I too have the same issue. I use waxed laces. Are unwaxed laces more forgiving, easier to get right?
  14. Ross

    Warrior G3 pad mod

    I tried that however with my knee /knee pad resting on the knee stack there is no space for the inner calf wrap to slide up on top of the knee stack. I can see that if you run the strap down to the calf and have it tight so that the break is flexed all the time then the top of the inner calf wrap will be sandwiched between your knee and knee stack all the time. I prefer to have the break with the ability to flex.
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