Ross

@Zip I’ve used Gorilla Glue, the original version, to glue the foam that was lifting back together on my 960. It works well. The nice thing about it is it cures with moisture so if the foam isn’t completely dry it still works whereas contact cement needs the surfaces to be totally dry. I squeeze out as much moisture from the foam as I can after every game, then I press a microfibre cloth against the foam to remove any leftover moisture. Then give a wipe down with a clean slightly damp cloth and the hang up to air dry.

@CassI used the ST-N foam

@jerd31 yes I did replace my foam using the method I posted BUT soon after I suffered 2 concussions due to pucks to the mask. Then after 6 weeks off ( had treatment during this time) I felt better so came back and played one game and took a knee to the head and was out for another 2 months with another concussion. During this time off I took the Resilient foam out of my mask and and laid it out next to the stock 960 foam and dropped pucks on them from about 3 feet above. When the pucks hit the Resilient foam they bounced back up about 18”. When the pucks hit the stock 960 foam they didn’t bounce at all. So what I figured was the resilient foam was transferring the impact from the pucks and knee to my head whereas the stock 960 foam was absorbing the impacts and minimizing the force delivered to my head. So I cleaned up the stock foam and put it back in my mask and have played for several months since and taken lots of shots off the mask with no issues whatsoever. Note that my 960 is relatively new, I bought it in late 2021. The reason that I wanted to replace the stock foam was because I was getting tired of having to squish out my sweat from the foam after every game. So in hindsight I wish I didn’t replace the foam and in the future I will do as my wife originally told me and just buy a new mask rather than refoaming. Obivously this is just my case, I’ve read lots of positive reviews about people using resilient foam, so I appear to be the odd one.

If anyone is thinking of replacing the foam in a Bauer mask, I found a supplier for the backing material that glues to the foam and holds the threaded post nuts in place. Its called bag stiffener and it available at Sewing Supply Depot in Toronto https://sewingsupplydepot.com/search?q=Bag+stiffener+ I’m going to replace the foam in my 960 soon using this material and the ST -N foam from Resilient. Here’s a link for the threaded post nuts https://www.ebay.ca/itm/264604623232?hash=item3d9baa2180:g:H3UAAOSwZi5eJOVg&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoImxj9dqOVv5ayUpmR9vpkhp8JZl9aLCR6ruL4AG8PfgZdM95ELstYMao3kiw5Avu2hIQ8nfAMAcaDZtRF9PYApG3USew0CzZqcPYTkD%2F%2F8hmBDr3P6P2Z3qKdzchS%2BxFf0OmubIdGgcGxXRezIPbTEsF5qiRty%2B%2BO4h3zwmgZtGuBuKzUEuxcfrgzrEIpiLLY6LXoZDhsiqWl4ZYDM0WbA%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR879--X5YA

@RichMan I added more foam to the inside of the calf landing on my G5 pads. It’s easy to do as there is a strip of Velcro there already that the foam pillow can bond to.

Here’s what I do on my ball hockey pads, it works really well. I melt 2 small holes in the front of my shoes using an awl that I heat up with a torch. Then I pass a short piece of line in through one of the holes and then back out the other hole. Then I tie the line together with an overhand knot and then seal it using some crazy glue. Next I make a loop of shock cord and attach it to a section of lacing on my pads in the boot/ ankle area. I have a couple of SS O rings that I attached to my pads when I made them however it would be quite easy to tie off an o ring to the toe tie attachment on most pads . Then I run the loop of shock cord through the O rings and the use a larks head knot to attach the shock cord loop to the knotted line in my shoe.

@ilyazhito here’s another clip that will help

Couple of recent pictures from goalie gear nerd.

Work table with a walking foot sewing machine and an industrial sewing machine.

@ThatCarGuy You can easily fix the damage on that Warrior stick using Zap Ca glue https://www.zapglue.com/ca Just clamp the damaged area and then put a couple of drops of the Zap glue on the area and it will wick in to the cracks and bond it together.

@havok no I’m not. I stopped playing ball hockey when covid started and now I’m only playing on ice.

@indykrap they are 7” long, 2 ½” wide and ¾” thick. I used 2 layers of 3/8” foam floor tile for padding.

I did the pillows the same as @Kayen. Made them for my G3s and now use them on my G5’s. Mine are about 1” thick with loop Velcro sewn on one side.

I use a block of HD foam that I shape and then adhere to the shaft with double sided tape. Then I wrap it Lizard Skin. Works well for me and I don’t have to weaken my composite sticks by doing it.

Have you tried using a soldering iron to apply heat to the screw?

If you are playing on hardwood floors put some adhesive backed Velcro on your pads and you will be able to slide. I’ve used it for years playing floor hockey. I use the hook side Velcro but I know several guys that use the loop side and it works well too. It’s easy to put on and cheap. You can peel it off and any residue can be removed with isopropyl alcohol.

Here’s how I attach my C/A. I added 2 buckles to the front inside waist of the pants and a webbing loop to the back. I have buckles on the front of the C/A that attach to the buckles inside the pants and an elastic webbing strap on the back of the C/A that attaches through the webbing loop on the back of the pants. Works really well. No issues at all.

Nohtaram, l had the same issue as you with that flap. My solution was to undo the lacing from the webbing tabs on the front of the flap and add 2 new webbing loops to the top of the flap and feed the top of the lacing through these new webbing tabs. I also tucked the flap in front of the internal padding so it no longer interferes with my C/A. Note I don’t use the internal belt.

The small hole in the glove T is likely an alignment mark put in by the material cutter ( usually a laser) at the factory. It helps the worker that’s assembling the glove align the parts as they are assembled. The hole should be in line with the edge of the glove however if you can see the hole then your T will be slightly larger than it should be, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Smaller volume factories that cut the parts by hand or with a cutting table that uses a knife blade instead of a laser would mark this point with a pen. I design kiteboarding equipment and the factories that produce our kites do the same thing, with either laser cut holes or notches, to ensure correct alignment as they assemble the panels together.

Different designers. Not a big deal, I just found it interesting that the logos were so similar.

Back in 2006 a company that I was working with produced a diving Drysuit called Fusion. Interesting to see that JRZ is using the same logo on their Fusion pads. Coincidence? I wonder if someone who works there is/ was a diver.

Ron, I sent you an email.

OceanMon, there’s a short video clip in my first post.