ser33

the trap was disassembled and washed. about 5 years ago. this time I just cleaned it of traces of pucks

A particularly tough test was the removal of eyelets, some of which were damaged

places requiring attention immediately became visible

this occurs from excessive tightening during assembly, but primarily from bending of the small plate

in my case, the back of the hand in the front was made of nylon without any backing and over time it “shrinked” a little, further increasing the tension

the inner palm is more interesting. besides the fact that medium-density foam about 2-3mm thick is sewn onto it

it itself is made of a fairly thick Nash-type material but smooth on the front side and “shaggy” reminiscent of the back of Jenpro on the inside

again, due to age, both sides have become “shaggy” with noticeable abrasions in the palm area

Once the trap is disassembled, we can make a comparison with my Bauers

I aligned Vaughn's palm along the break line with my 1S

oh miracle! they match! that means they both have the same breaking angle

The lines of the upper part completely matched, except that on Vaughn the thumb was slightly longer

No wonder I liked the Bauer trap so much! she was close in feel to Vaughn which I loved for many years

but the bottom lines showed that Vaughn is noticeably larger both at the tips of the fingers and at the bottom, especially the longer break line

as you know, the legal size of a trap depends on its perimeter, which includes not only the size of the palm but also the length of the bars T

It’s logical that the smaller the area of the palm and therefore its perimeter, the larger the length of the bars T and the size of the pocket can be

But that is not all. the depth of the pocket is also regulated, which consists of the length of the leg T and the length of the breaking line

and here, too, everything is logical - the shorter the breaking line, the longer the leg T, and therefore the depth of the pocket

and here you need to decide what is more important - the size of the palm and its blocking surface or the size and depth of the pocket. something to think about

I didn’t stop there and compared the Vaughn palm with the Vapor trap

here it was already a little different - the area almost coincided, although Vaughn is still a little larger, especially in the length of the break line, but the angle of the break was completely different and did not match. a noticeable difference between the Supreme and Vaopr lines from Bauer

Well, the last comparison for today. in the photo there is a Vaughn logo from 15+ years ago and a Bauer logo that is less than 10 years old. find 10 differences. haha. At the same time, Bauer is also inside the silicone fill, but it still peeled off. That's what the quality and durability of classic Vaughn means!

to be continued...

p.s. knowledgeable people, please tell me what the breaking angle is on Supreme and Vapor

So all this action with the blocker, as you probably guessed, was a prelude to repairing the trap

I don’t have a photo of its original condition, but it looked something like this

The ordered materials for repairs are gradually coming to me and the movement will soon begin. in the meantime, you can find out how to bring old gloves back to life and do it not only efficiently but also as authentically as possible. I highly recommend this topic

I will also try to do it efficiently, but I can’t promise authenticity

Soon everything will be...

Yes! I'm a fucking genius! ahahaha! even Vaughn copies my ideas

I completely forgot. attaching protection to fingers. To avoid the twisting of the fingers that occurs when attaching the elastic to one side of the finger, I inserted the elastic into the pre-sewn loops on the protection and sewed them on both sides of the finger. works great

it's time for the side blocking board. I never liked the shape of the old Vaughn side blocking boards and started constructing my own version by cutting and sewing pieces of Jenpro

sewed a jumper between the blocking board and the thumb guard and inserted a piece of plastic into it

The Bauer side blocking board is considered the toughest on the market. This is achieved by using a sandwich made of thin high-density foam covered on both sides with CURV material.

I didn't have CURV so I used regular plastic about 1-1.5mm thick

I glued high-density and softer foam onto it and inserted it inside, after which I sewed the board to the blocker

I initially made a thick protection for the index finger, but decided to play it safe and cut out additional protection from high-density foam, which I then covered with Jenpro and sewed to the blocker

Well, this is what happened in the end. just like "real"

it all weighs 730 grams

the previous version weighed 758 grams. progress though!

for comparison, Bauer's 1S weighs 945 grams. significant difference

moving the palm to a neutral position improved the seal into the paddle down

That's all with the blocker. but that's not the end of the story. to be continued

cuff

The cuff was in excellent condition, no cuts or tears. with the only exception - it did not wash

There was soft foam inside the nylon pocket

I now have a lot of new material, so we’ll do it “to the best of our ability”

the upper part was made from AirMash, the lower part was made from Nash

sewed it together by inserting foam and covered it with the hated binding

and sewed it onto the glove. the blocker becomes similar to the blocker

then proceeded to protect the thumb

the defense was relatively fine except that Vaughn skimped on the Jenpro and not only made it from small pieces but the part itself was small

on the reverse side everything was according to the classics - a tear from the plastic

this usually happens due to a very small pocket under the plastic

there was such foam inside

which itself formed a pocket for plastic

At the same time, the plastic was not secured in any way and dangled like a flower in an ice hole, constantly changing its position

so I glued the plastic to the foam, fixing its correct position

Another feature of the protection was that the cutout for the stick paddle was too small. traced the shape of the plastic and cut off the excess

repaired a cut on the inside

sewed a cut piece of Jenpro and sewed the pieces together adding nylon binding

and in the place of friction with the paddle stick there is a binding from Jenpro

sewed a loop for the wrist strap

and sewed the protection in its place

to be continued...

I started with the glove because the location of the remaining parts of the blocker depended on its location

all supporting elements have been removed from the blocking board sheathing

This photo shows two rows of parallel holes. I did the one closer to the front edge during the first repair of the blocker with the palm shifted down. the top rows were originally the location of the elements when sewing at the Vaughn factory

Since I am conditionally “returning” the glove to the previous “neutral” position, all the elements must be sewn to their “old” places. sewed a wrist strap

finger protection

the back of the palm with a pillow in which I changed the stuffing

and the front of the glove

side glove holders

inserted the blocking board and tried it on my hand

happened...

happened another shit

The fact is that when I changed the profile of the blocking board last time, I oriented it to the “low” position of the palm. when I now moved it up, my wrist began to rest against the thickest part of the board. not a comfortable feeling

took the board and slightly adjusted its profile making a clear flat area the size of a palm

By the way, about the board itself. I even then noticed that it was made from a single piece of hard foam, unlike most boards from other manufacturers, including Vaughn itself, even on later models where the boards were made of multi-layer soft foam

I knew that these gloves of mine were made to special order and may differ from retail products

after which I altered the side holders of the glove, moving them closer to it in order to obtain a tighter connection between the glove and the blocking board. I don’t like the loose feeling on the blocker and, unlike a trap, I always fasten the blocker tightly to my hand

to be continued...

Having finished with the back of the hand, he moved to the front. circled an old palm tree at Nash. At the same time, I managed to do it with a permanent marker on the front surface. loser

I sewed a second layer of reinforcement in the area of the thumb and palm

and started sewing to the back

oh, and the palm will be a bit short!

cut it off and threw it away. took the old back part and marked it again on Nash

adding extra thumb material

I sewed at several points to align the position of the parts relative to each other. This photo clearly shows the meaning of the expression “sewn with white thread”

in order to prevent the formation of folds of excess material when bending the thumb when marking it, I bent it in the desired position, after which I cut it out

sewed on reinforcement of the thumb and palm

then I completely sewed all the parts together

this is the end of last night

to be continued

19 minutes ago, Korppi32 said:

He wore Brians in Stanley Cup finals 2015.  And launch of 1S was maybe 2016

most likely that's the case. the information was stated by the seller, I did not check it

1 minute ago, keeperton said:

https://vasilevskiy88.com/

Confirmed.

I almost bought his trap once. still without a logo, but still. from the 2014 World Championships if I'm not mistaken

9 hours ago, RichMan said:

Watching last night highlights, I noticed Vasy has logo style initials on his catcher. Noticed one or two other pro goaliesdo this.

Does he have his own Russian YouTube channel as well?

As far as I know, no. but I heard from him in one interview that he sells merch under his logo

56 minutes ago, mik said:

To be continued? Are you kiddnig me ? Great thread and looking forvard to see finised refurb. 

calm mon cher just calm. New episodes of the show are in post-production and will soon be available via paid subscription. Ahaha

but seriously. I have catastrophically little free time and I actually do everything in real time. I did it yesterday and showed it today. Soon everything will be

Hi all!

this is a continuation of an old topic

During the last renovation it was briefly done

palm partially replaced

increased finger protection

changed shape of blocking and side boards

improved wrist mobility

changed the spatial position of the glove with a downward shift

it looked like this

I've had these gloves for about 10 years and they amazed me with their durability. were also very comfortable

After this repair, I played them for some time until the Bauer 1S appeared, which led to additional wear and tear

I decided to return to them again and started a new renovation. The main thing that was my mistake was moving the glove lower on the blocking board. This was caused by the fact that when I was repairing the blocker, I used a Reebok blocker instead and I had several painful bites on my forearm, to avoid which I moved the glove to V3. which spoiled the overall balance and made playing paddle down difficult

I'll have to fix this

I gradually began to cut off individual parts from the blocker, starting with the finger protection. then I made them from nylon and they had noticeable wear after use

I was also annoyed by the binding, I hate sewing it

Having taken the protection apart, I first sewed pieces of nylon slings onto the inner parts facing the fingers

I sewed a piece of Jenpro onto the outside of the index finger guard and sewed all the pieces together from the inside out and then turned them inside out

to protect the other fingers I did not use a whole piece of Jenpro but a small part from the original Vaughn protection

sewed and turned. it turned out like this

after which he began to repair the palm

at that time she already looked bad

I found a local supplier for some renovation materials and purchased Nash from him.

cut out the back of the hand with a double layer on the fingers

into which I inserted foam from the original glove

and sewed on the side part from 3D air mash material

to be continued

On 4/13/2024 at 8:22 PM, ArdeFIN said:

New to me Vapor X900 pads. I've been looking for some Bauer Vapor pads to try them out but they always seem to be badly broken (surprise?) or overly pricey. And the offerings have been really limited as Supreme has been much more available.

There are some things to sort out before trying these on ice. Like adding toe straps and the bridge that previous(?) owner has cut off for some reason. Some strappping needs to be fixed and velcro replaced. 

And a bit of cleaning with magic eraser. In the picture right pad has already been operated.

I've been looking for Vapor 1X pads for over a year for the same reason. will there be a topic on restoration? look forward to

thanks everyone. I appreciate it. I'll be repairing my bauer pads in the near future and I'm wondering if I should make a flat shoe. but thanks to your answers, I thought even more. I’ll probably do this on some pads, and leave others as they are. Then, with a quick transition, I’ll decide what I liked best. thank you very much for your feedback

hi all. a new trend from pad manufacturers - flat boot

I took the photo from the Vaughn thread, I hope its owner won’t be offended by me

question

Who already uses pads with a flat boot, please share your impressions. What does this offer compared to the classic boot, pros and cons. appreciate any feedback. Thanks

12 hours ago, ArdeFIN said:

Hmm, traps?? 3mm is the basic material as it is rigid enough for thumb and finger plastics. 2mm goes usually for the lip of the T and for the break fill-in slice. 2mm is good for blocker boards too. I've bought 1mm PE too for blocker boards that are still useable but could use a little extra in front of them.

I read all your threads again to refresh the information as I am now on the verge of new restoration projects. thank you very much

On 12/21/2022 at 10:48 PM, ArdeFIN said:

Findings from the inside. Both plastics have cracked, finger plastic only on one spot and the thumb side is toasted.

Thumb side plastic doesn't go all the way up to the cuff, but only ends half way and inside the foam plate. The bent edge is a weak spot and has been cut all the way. This same thing happens in all the gloves made with this style. But that is basically unavoidable and the plastics will break no matter what.

Finger side was cut from the edge through some needle holes, weak spot here too and I don't really think that they need the felt to be sewn to the plastic here on the outer edge. None of the other manufacturers do.

The T was looking bad but that was more of the lace work that was done to fix the pocket. Sure the spines were broken at the attaching holes but that a common thing and pretty easy fix. Even without dismantling the whole glove if you ever get into a situation like this. I did have a picture of before, but it wasn't good enough quality to show you anything. Cracked ends were cut with different lengths on top and bottom to interlace the seams. Right side was worse and the top had to be cut one hole longer.

T had a skate(?) cut on the edge which had been repaired by some non-hockeygear and hadn't held up.

The inside piece was also damaged so much that I decided to replace it with a new material. Simple job to do and doesn't consume a lot of jenpro either as the piece is straight edged. I also bent the outer material in so that the existing needle holes were hidden inside and sewed everything back together.

What thickness of plastic do you use for the traps? I bought 2mm and it seems to me that it is too thin. ordered 3mm

2S pro, Ultrasonic

3 hours ago, UCLALabrat said:

I cant imagine the skin does much of anything in terms of rebounds unless it just helps keep the foam tension. Having a hard plate on the surface with softer foam underneath probably drives most of it.

Im sure there are a few other engineering tricks to get more force back into the puck

however, this is most likely the case. it was the appearance of Bauer's new skin that contributed to the increased rebound. At the same time, the internal design of the pads, their core, has remained virtually unchanged and remains similar to the core of the same Premier released much earlier. Soft foam under the plastic (whether carbon, polyethylene or Curve) absorbs energy and does not improve rebound. on the contrary, an increase in the overall rigidity of the structure contributes to a better rebound. this is clearly demonstrated by Bauer who uses granular polyurethane instead of foam

14 hours ago, ArdeFIN said:

It might have something to do with the top foam under the front skin of the pad not being energy absorbing but more so energy rebounding. 

Tried to look for some info on energy return of the modern foams and it seems that they reach 70% or even more. 

Speaking of foams I just refurbished a Vapor 1X blocker that had some 5mm thick foam attached to the back of the front face (Cortech) material. Remains to be seen how good the rebound fly will be with that one. I can compare it to a Reactor 9000 with more standard foam setup. Sure the 1X has Curv too while Reactor has old fashion (replaced) 3mm plastic plate. Curv could be more springy and rebouncing plate from the feel of it. 

I agree with your assumption that the foam on CoreTech does not affect absorption but the elasticity of the skin, allowing for increased rebound. on the Bauer pads it’s done the same way as on the blocker you mentioned

16 hours ago, ilyazhito said:

Wow. It is crazy how Bauer's skin really makes the rebounds fly. Of course, the construction helps too. I would imagine Warrior pads are closer to a Vapour in construction than to a Supreme, but Warrior doesn't have the CORTech equivalent that can launch rebounds beyond the blue line like a Supreme or Optik pad. 

For some time I had an Opt1k with a Fly core and a Bauer 1S at the same time. and I wouldn’t say that Opt1k is capable of giving a rebound beyond the blue line. Perhaps in new integrations of pads Brians worked in this direction, but knowing the internal structure of Opt1k and 1S and assuming the further development of these lines, I have certain doubts about Brians’ achievements in this direction, which is purely my personal opinion and I could be wrong

14 hours ago, Almost Hip said:

With laces, all the eyelets evenly distribute the forces and hold up mostly the life of the skate.  With these buckles being a retrofit onto laced skates, that single eyelet is seeing all the forces of multiple holes which is where they start breaking down.   I love the idea but maybe a redesign could have them attach to two or 3 eyelets on each side.

your words totally make sense. I say this as the owner of two pairs of skates with buckles. and on one of them I have only one buckle per skate. and this puts a huge load on the leg. and also to the place where the buckle is attached to the skate

7 minutes ago, Puckstopper said:

If anything the 1 piece Trues sit lower than the Bauer Vertexx cowlings, although that largely depends on the steel.  The store I used to work at had plenty of old stock goalie skates to compare to the True's.   There were 3 factors in me picking the 2 piece True skate over the 1 piece and the largest one was I was used to a taller skate and didn't want to go back.  

quite fair. I compared my True 1 piece with Bauer Pro on Vertex holders with a hood. Bauer is taller with similar blade height, more noticeable in the rear

On 1/25/2024 at 12:12 AM, pfeiffjay54 said:

This just came out on Vaughns instagram, tough angle to get the whole pad in but they’re showing off the “carbon core tech” here. You get a really good view on how they do an integrated knee block, looks similar to @ser33’s optiks

Thanks for sharing the image and mentioning me. It only took Vaughn four years to copy my idea. lol. ser33 is moving the goalkeeper industry forward. ahahaha!