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Vanniek71

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Posts posted by Vanniek71

  1. 56 minutes ago, StevenC said:

    I need a new cage for my Fichaud model.

    I’ve emailed Michel but is there any other options than getting it from Michel?

    I just bought a Guardian Angel cage to try out since my 2 Protechsport cages bent within 2 weeks of each other (Not faulting Protech, the cages did their job) I am trying one of the Optimus cages...visibility is great and the bars are beefier so hoping it helps.

     

    He didn't make a cage for my mask (Potvin mold) so I sent in an old cage and he built one for me. It fits perfectly and the bottom visibility (near my feet) is awesome.

     

  2. 56 minutes ago, tubby34 said:

    I've started using these. Has anyone noticed the eyelets "stretching"?

    I haven’t, but also Im a set it and forget it till it breaks kind of guy lol

  3. 27 minutes ago, pfeiffjay54 said:

    I wanna do this to my true double r, do you think reattaching the bottom part of the t like you did is necessary? Any suggestions on how to do this is appreciated.

    30C8B1E2-F09D-441F-8F55-8F583A7C537E.jpeg

    You could do it without reattaching the bottom together but I wanted to make sure that area was strong. It’s easy to make a piece of binding and connect it so IMO worth it.

    if you decide not to attach it you’d want to make sure there are holes at the ends to weave the pocket through.

     

  4. Had a different glove a while back  I sent off to Factory Mad to have his work done to it. I loved the bobbed T and the relacing but didn’t really care for how he changed the edge of the pocket. Still he does great work, just that part isn’t for me.

    Fast forward to now and I picked up a set of gloves (Game and Practice) that the perimeter lacing was beat, and the T was torn and plastic sticking out…. I decided I wanted to Bob and float the T and fix it up!

    9794232E-E964-4585-B486-5717A75B4F98.thumb.jpeg.b85738f371e63ad299bbc5761d81d37b.jpegFB861334-E21A-42A0-A49E-01EAA78025B6.thumb.jpeg.08ce862f1e4de2bdfbfdedc8e8afb227.jpegDF830F96-D675-4E21-88D0-25528E5C860A.thumb.jpeg.1a9229a286da0c6ac64f95c535bf808b.jpegB5D0FA1A-E754-4502-A56A-874AF49BC3D9.thumb.jpeg.16608b3ef14e890928f70cca2304c7ef.jpeg

    First things first, I removed the bad lacing and the T, then marked where I wanted to cut the T back to and chopped off the bad stuff.
     

    F5DE9316-57C5-46F1-A24A-0EC6364592DF.thumb.jpeg.39f1a4e90761dbf0c375a2279a562127.jpeg6212CB66-17CD-4BFB-BC4A-5C0A4D9BA31B.thumb.jpeg.eb4648b028785226c6cb7825bb585294.jpeg
     

    After that, I restitched the material around the plastic T reinforcement back together and overlapped the binding material. Sewed it all back together as seamlessly as I could. (the purple dots is superglue to make sure the thread knot stays put)

    245EFA45-C9CC-4BC3-9124-AF57EACB43CF.thumb.jpeg.9fca28f0c7b4fcb4b612608f06b76742.jpeg372A2DC4-DF15-4931-A40A-6F27451B83F2.thumb.jpeg.94d7d7fee4f386860647c7fd389a0052.jpeg
     

    Once that was complete, I relaced the perimeter with new nylon lacing.

    Decided on yellow skate lace (went non waxed to try it out this time, usually use waxed for pockets) for the pocket and got to work. I wish I could have found a closer yellow to the glove yellow but it’s close enough for pucks :) 

     

    The T is nice and stiff so it floated really well with this glove.

    2B698425-0168-4790-A9DD-AA90D96C94D8.thumb.jpeg.f018c228d770fffdaa2481bbe4a33d66.jpeg9815F2FB-01DC-45A3-B825-C739DDD7049C.thumb.jpeg.51b6e5b1dd8158bed41305f3e6f4f859.jpeg49A75C39-E78B-4BA3-98B1-7ABB88043BAD.thumb.jpeg.df6aecc8937723e3b7ea138b5a0ebc5e.jpeg2F68ABB0-EDCA-43CB-AF21-F3491D298508.thumb.jpeg.b896c466539e02f3463c983bea5fd922.jpeg6CDB5938-0534-464B-AA86-9F36B924A0F8.thumb.jpeg.9617579acd1a81021262260af8c3c48d.jpeg

    Next up is lacing and pocket on the Game glove!

    0499F7B5-07C7-4637-937B-540363045005.thumb.jpeg.722e9d7c2fb70ebdc4c34b0dff4e242f.jpeg

     

    • Like 3
  5. 1 hour ago, Almost Hip said:

    That seems very thin and flimsy.

    Yeah I was pretty surprised. Maybe at one time it was a bit stiffer and many shots have damaged it? I am trying to get a new one ordered just to check it out. I am replacing it with the HD plastic.

     

  6. 20 hours ago, ArdeFIN said:

    If you ask me I'd get rid of that material and replace it with PE-HD right away.

    I am actually doing this right now on a pair of SLR 2 Pro Carbon blockers. I opened one up because the face was kind of lumpy, wanted to see what was in there. The carbon sheet is not even stiff whatsoever, its more like a soft material. I ordered 2 plastic inserts to replace it since I couldn't find anything close to what's in there (I reached out to Vaughn to see if they sold replacements but haven't heard back yet).

    Just for reference sake here is what the SLR 2 carbon looks like:

    IMG_4283.jpg

    IMG_4284.jpg

  7. So, I'm not a newb to removing puck marks, I used to use Simple Green and a magic eraser - I came across a video from Essan at BAHR saying you shouldn't use magic eraser because it removes some layers of the Jenpro.

    He uses Goof off and then "Padgic" (isopropyl, peroxide and baking soda mixture) and it works great. But I have only seen a video of him using it on white gear. I read a comment where a user said he could see color on his towel after using the Goof Off on his colored pads and it removed the shine. I tested it on a toe bridge (I have Blue and Yellow pads) and some color does come off and the shine is gone. I wiped it down with some silicone spray and the shine came back, but there has to be something to the color coming off.... I don't want to shorten the life of the Jenpro, but would love to clean these pads up. Maybe the color coming off is just the price to pay to clean my gear up?

    So my question is what say you? What methods do you use? 

  8. 2 hours ago, Llew81 said:

    I could paint one of my spares if you like.. at least you may get some idea of what does and doesn't work. (I need practice and have just finished doing one of my others).. what sort of thing we're you thinking?

    I hadn't really thought that much in to it, I just had figured that Wolverine is popular enough someone somewhere had to have him on their mask.

    Let me think about it a bit.

  9. With the popularity of Wolverine (the Marvel Character) I have not seen any masks really with that theme. Anyone have any pics of a "Wolverine" Mask? (Again not the Michigan Wolverines, love them as well, but I want the Marvel version lol)

    Maybe he's too hard to portray on a mask to get a decent representation so people know what it is? IDK just was thinking about it today and wanted to see if anyone out there had done that theme before.

  10. 3 minutes ago, chile57 said:

    Looks good @Vanniek71 - like the changeup of a predominantly white Venom mask. One question - what are the outlined white pieces on the crown of the lid coming down to the center of the top of the cage intended to be? 

    Not a clue sir! Scratches maybe? With wraps JF was saying there is a seam, so maybe he used that to blend it easier? I didn't mind it so said go with it.

  11. 1 minute ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

    Never mind I went back and found it.  Another Potvin!

    Yessir, specifically:

     

    Potvin Mold:

    Full Kevlar

    White paint

    Chin Cup

    Black foam Interior

    Cat eye cage + 1 extra cat eye cage

    Triangular vent holes

    Black harness - hidden harness

    Vented backplate with the 2 triangular vents at the top

    • Like 1
  12. 4 minutes ago, seagoal said:

    Thanks man.

    The painted straps color was one detail I didn't plan for. I figured they'd be white, black, or red.  I knew my real straps were black.  The yellow was a curve ball I didn't anticipate but I honestly really like them.  It's an off color but I think it works. 

    Thankfully real straps on Sportmasks don't show a lot.  I'm pleased with how it all turned out. The yellow straps and threads tie in his teeth tarter perfectly,  haha.

    He does do custom painted straps.....real straps ;)

    I don't think the black looks bad at all, honestly you really don't notice it much, just thought it might be a cool detail to add if you could!

  13. Also for those of you counting/wondering - 47 weeks and 1 day from date of order to when I got the email that my mask was starting. (28 weeks and 3 days from the date Michel got my head mold)

    (Don't take this as a bash, I couldn't care less on the wait, this is just a timeframe reference for folks)

  14. 1 hour ago, chile57 said:

    @Vanniek71 marinated a bit before circling back here...

    Just a suggestion but I think cage clips would be a better option than whatever you bought or can buy at Home Depot/Lowes/whatever. Cage clips will be closed and stainless steel. Checking that link you provided - its open ended and the cord could come undone (though not likely when under tension) and since it doesn't look to be galvanized or stainless (since its usually an indoor application for something like that) - prone to rust.

    Whoops - accidently quoted myself in a double post. My bad.

    Yeah been thinking about it as well. Those clips I believe are aluminum so shouldn’t have a rust issue, but I’m not sure I like the open ended bit. Going to stop by HD and take a look at them closer. Since I never unbuckle my mask anyways cage clips seem like a better option for me.

    For now I just bought a snap kit off Amazon and replaced the broken snap so I had more time to come up with something. 

     

    • Like 1
  15. @chile57 Yup I have seen those, pretty much all I could find though, I even reached out to Goalie Gear Nerd on IG to see if hes still using it and if he'd be willing to send pics, but no response there =(

    I'll get it figured out, or I will just order some Halos and see how I like em 😃

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