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Novasteel31

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Posts posted by Novasteel31

  1. 22 minutes ago, ZeroGravitas said:

    Step Black comes in a 4mm width for the XSG holder.

    Thank you, I don't know why I was having a hard time finding that. Now in regards to a profile will there be one that will give me a similar feel to what my Bauer skates had, as correct me if I'm wrong but they are slightly pitched more forward then CCM skates?

  2. I have no used these skates 6 times and I have adjusted to the boot in terms of comfort but I just can't not adjust to the blades, I know these are a 3mm and my old skates were a 4mm. DonI have an option to switch back to a 4mm with these holders? Also I do not know much about profiling but the main issue that I am having is I feel that the toe of the blade is massive and it is hindering my skating, how I get up and my movement in the crease. What profile would help me most?

    PXL_20230701_144450496.jpg

  3. I also don't care for switching things up until the time comes for new gear purchase. The only thing I would say I rotate is sticks but I purchase 2 of the same one at the start of the season and use those for the year unless they break over the cross bar of course 😁

    • Like 1
  4. I got these a few weeks back and has my first skate in them tonight. Coming from 4mm steel to the 3mm was interesting for the first few minutes and I also felt the toe pick issue when in the butterfly but it also did not last. One thing I noticed was that the top of the skate at the final lace hole was digging into my ankle bone as the skate went on, does this area break in over time?

     

    Also I was using 1/2 hollow but they recommended I go with 5/8 but I found I did not get as much bite on my butterfly pushes as I had before.

  5. 3 hours ago, coopaloop1234 said:

    Mostly due to familiarity of 75 breaks. I've pretty much always been in them aside from some quick experiments with a Premier 2.9 590 and this Hyperlite. 

    Plus, with how low my C/A comes on my wrists normally, I have to tighten the arms further in order to make the wrist strap on the Hyperlite work and that adjustment is making my arms pull on my C/A too easily. 

     

    I can fully understand this, for whatever reason I just can not get adjusted to using a 590 glove at all. That being said I might be getting a Mach glove myself as I'm not 100% sold on my True 600, one day its a glorified blocker the next I catch everything.

  6. 13 hours ago, Chenner29 said:

    Glove closure on a *real* Lefevre glove is butter eh?

    So very true and now after about a dozen skates I can say I finally prefer this glove over my old gnetik

  7. 3 hours ago, xmikex32 said:

    Went and tried on some M5’s and seems like I can fit in either a large or a medium. The medium might be more mobile and seem to fit a little better without the thigh rise being too big  

    the white pad is large and the blue is medium. My knee pads are usually covered by socks and taped down. 

    IMG_8799.jpeg

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    IMG_8801.jpeg

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    IMG_8803.jpeg

    Looks like medium is the right choice if it was me personally

    • Like 3
  8. 4 hours ago, coopaloop1234 said:

    You're correct on the more finger styled closing of the Hyperlite over the Mach. 

    Hyperlite: 60 degree
    Mach: 75 degree. 

    Though in saying that, I close my Mach in a very similar fashion as my G5 with a 60 degree liner: More of a finger centric closing motion with a 75 break + pocket position. 

    I believe this is because Supreme line gloves have always kind of been this 75/90 degree glove mix. Has a typical 75 break angle but with a more upright pocket. 

    Here's the difference of the pocket angle between my G5 and my Mach:

    20230503_094137.thumb.jpg.56f8dcdca6b20611ce5d7001349daaf1.jpg

    Both gloves have the same break angle (look at the crease) but the Warrior has the more classic pocket position of pointing outwards whereas the Bauer has a more upright thumb placement which points the pocket slightly more upwards. 

    There's enough differences between these two brands that you'll never get them to truly feel the same. It's not like going from a 590 to the Vaughn clone. 

    Breaks between brands are always going to be different. I've always been in 75 gloves (One55, LT90, GT1, GT2, G5, Mach) but I loathe 600 gloves and Vaughn 75 gloves (both Veloctiy and SLR). 

    The break angles between brands is a good starting point to figuring out if you like what another company brings to the table, but it's never going to match what you're used to. There's a reason why companies will literally clone another company's glove in order to sway a Pro to use their gear. 

    Its funny because I'm trying to adjust to my 600 break glove right now and I think the pocket position is what is throwing me off, and after looking at this comparison pic I think I might have to go and grab me a Mach glove if I cant adjust!!

  9. Good to know as I just picked these up from Pro Hockey Life. CCM did not have my size in stock on there website and lucky for me Pro Hockey did and they ended up matching the online price as they still had them listed for $900. Going to get them baked and sharpened and hope to have them on the ice this weekend.

  10. 9 hours ago, Sam50 said:

    I just put in my order for a new set I went with the retro graphic, my team jerseys are the same as the seattle kraken with a different logo

    image.png.3fdea6720ba401a39b6f64ebc8729f4c.pngimage.png.fbb508efcc8a8e694407123d6a45970b.png

    33+1.5, single break core, single beak outer roll, soft core, flex boot, 1" nylon strap recessed knee wrap with outer removable inside knee wrap, regular boot angle

    image.png.1260ce5bc586045c11dbacbbd41ab196.pngimage.png.22f43cd6557586e573e637d1eb99a5e7.png

    regular hand, medium size, half piece cuff, 595 face edge, suregrip, tight hand fit, straight finger protection

    image.png.3399043b044b6011e60b9ef37b9be2a6.pngimage.png.3a9b7d49490b4f09a11f1f2109135f90.png

    580 break, double tee, suregrip, webbing

     

    I will update when they come in should be about 3 months

    Don't be surprised if it comes quicker I got mine in roughly 8 weeks

  11. 7 minutes ago, xmikex32 said:

    I am most likely going to go that route since the one time experience i had with SR level gloves was a RBK 9k and it wouldn't close to save its life and would give me stingers all the time with low level shots. It seems that Brians gloves have their own breaks but would the optik be closer to a warrior r would that be Gnetic? i like the warriors finger the palm feeling.

    I had a gnetik glove before my current True set and it has an interesting feel. They say on there is a video from ingoal media that says it falls into the 600 break family which is why I ended up going with a 600 glove on my new set. However after playing a few games with the new glove I'm not sold on that. When I close my gnetik glove i can do it like a 590 with the fingers or i can do it like a 600 where it goes across the palm. The pocket to me sits more like a 590 then anything else, it's certainly a glove that you have to put on and get a feel for.

  12. 1 hour ago, Puckstopper said:

    Catch glove is the one place I'll always pay the extra for pro level stuff.   Not only are they better padded, but the attention to detail (closure) is almost always better as well.  

    Completely agree

  13. 5 hours ago, boon said:

    How do you setup the leg channel? I was thinking it would be best to have the top strap done up a bit tighter than the lower strap, but I'm still waiting to get my set.

    I actually like a fairly snug leg channel but you basically nailed it on how I have mine set up. On the frs I have the top portion that sits on my calf tighter and the lower portion loose. I run my knee block starp around my knee but my next skate I am going to try bringing it down to the calf as I have a leather strap from the knee block as well. 

  14. I'm half a dozen skates with these now and I can honestly say I don't know why I didn't switch to a stiffer pad sooner. The first skate was very awkward but it only took me 2 skates to dial in the leg channel and they have felt amazing since. They slide wonderfully on new and old ice and they have already saved a few goals for me by sealing the ice so much better then my old reactors. The build quality is fantastic and they perform exactly how you expect them to everytime you make a movement. Highly recommend and can see why they are so popular amongst the pros. 

  15. 3 hours ago, xmikex32 said:

    Think im going to pick up some 4mm steel and get it profiled and see how that goes. not sold on the 3mm, i had them the sharpest they could get and felt like i had no bite like i did with my 4mm.

     

    @Novasteel31 for some reason IF you do decide to go with ccms check out ccms clearance page depending on your size you can get some top skates for cheap. I wear smaller skates(8) and picked up the AS3 for $340

    Yes I did see that however I went to try on the skates yesterday and I just can't do a CCM boot the Bauer's felt much better. However I am interested in seeing if I can find the Grad peek speeds to try on.

  16. 6 minutes ago, creasecollector said:

    Definitely jumping a little bit here. 

    A few years ago I went from Bauer 3000's to stiff True/VH skates. My first session with them I thought I had made a terrible mistake.

    However, once I made these adjustment, I was good to go:

    - I re-baked them as they were new-to-me skates.

    - Had to tweak the way I sharpened my skates my moving to a sharper (for me), but overall neutral cut. I currently rock a 5/8 cut.

    - Laced the skates differently. Had to skip the top eyelet to give myself the forward ankle flex I needed to move in these stiff skates.

    That seems to make sense. Did you go to a 3mm steel or stick with the 4mm? I also currently rock a 1/2" cut on my blades and I'm wondering if that will be to sharp for a 3mm steel based on what I have been reading. Also I'm thinking about the Bauer 3s pro's, if anyone knows can i get a 4mm steel on those?

    • Like 2
  17. 1 hour ago, Puckstopper said:

    Do it now.  It's easier to adjust while you're young (er?).  Plus if you find you absolutely CAN'T make the switch, better to do it while you can stock up on serviceable replacement materials.  Waiting another 2-3 years will mean those parts are impossible to find instead of merely difficult.  

    Well I don't know if 37 is young anymore but I get what you are trying to say lol. Yes I've noticed that not purchasing equipment for roughly 10 years has put me a step behind technologically 😂

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