Hockey37

7 hours ago, Chenner29 said:

Yep, more or less a straight copy of the Maltese/Roughneck/Eco collars, right down to the flap on the back and binding along the perimeter.  The padding they used is noticeably less springy than the originals

What is the fabric material like?  Similar to the newer generations of Eco/Roughneck/Maltese?  I keep seeing pictures pop up of used collars and they look very well used after a short period of time; major fabric pilling, holes, etc.

My original Maltese (old heavy gel, when you had to have a 2 hour phone conversation with Phil just to order) is still holding up with no holes after probably 10 years or more.  Can't even remember how long ago I got it.

I've been looking into this issue/swap as well recently.  Is the pitch of the Bauer holder similar to the True?  Any changes in steel profile required?

On 10/28/2020 at 12:24 AM, dreadlocked1 said:

After, I'm pretty sure, reading on here about tennis overwraps, I did some experimenting with tapes on the paddle, knob and blade.  While I'm not willing to cut a fiberglass paddle (yet), I have no issues cutting the shaft down a few inches (3-6") if necessary.  I was cutting my senior sticks but have yet to cut my intermediate sticks since starting to use them this year.  For the paddle, regular hockey cloth tape is the least grippy, then grip tape, then tennis overwrap tape.  I do have to seal it up with some cloth tape, and I probably could have used more for a better tape job, but I was going for weight savings to keep my stick as light as possible.  The over wrap tape is 3 bucks at Walmart.  I've gotten at least 12 games with it so far without major wear and tear.  It definitely doesn't seem as durable as the other two tapes.  The grip is great and works well for me.

I used that type of tennis wrap tape for a long time.  Lasts for a while, just the right amount of grip, loved it.  I got the idea from GSBB I believe.  Only ended up not using it when my CCM composites came with the grip coating.  If they didn't have any grip, I'd still be using the tennis wrap.

Has anyone ordered a 2nd mask from Michel without sending in a head mould?  If you know which mould you already use, are you comfortable enough to order it again "off the shelf"?

If they are highlighting the flex in the new M1 stick, the choice to not offer the Wedge curve is puzzling.  Seems many people like this curve, and this could send some back to CCM if they will be offering the Price.

Also looks like only square toe options on the M1, no rounded toe.  

@Kirk3190 Will weave be on the "stock" retail sets?  I'm hoping for an all black weave or mostly black weave for a stock option.  Thanks.

On 5/25/2018 at 11:35 AM, Chenner29 said:

I'm basically on the same setup (boot, holder, same exact blade profile), except with Tydan steel and an aggressive forward pitch.

The nice thing with the Tydan steel is I sharpen less, so that would hopefully mitigate how often I need to re-profile the steel

Does Tydan make 4mm steel for the True 2 piece holder?  I haven't seen anything online in my searching.

Has anyone tried the new Hal Carbon?  I liked the idea of having a small tab at the end, as my older Hal's were sewn right up to the edge.  So I ordered a pair to try out.

The leather material is much thinner and cheaper.  Velcro material seems a little less substantial.  After only about 5 games I was getting dressed, and the knot in the cord pulled through the hole in the strap.  They were at the same length as my previous set, so no added stress or additional tightness.  It looks as though due to the thinner and cheaper leather the knot in the cord just worked itself out through the hole.  Never had any type of similar issue in 2 years of having my previous Hals.  

Very disappointed in these new Hal's.

2 piece users:  Do you use the same profile/contour on your blades as your previous skates?  Or do you find a need to change?  I am currently using a 20'/32' with a medium forward pitch on a Bauer Vertexx cowling with VH boot.  With the increased forward angle of the True 2 piece, has anyone had to or felt the need to go to a more neutral pitch?  Thankfully I have ready access to a contour system so I could try out both, but would like to receive any feedback to possibly reduce the number of times I have to contour the blades, since steel isn't cheap.