ArdeFIN Posted May 16, 2022 Posted May 16, 2022 (edited) Game ready with 3DO and classic 590 break so it's a basic off the shelf glove if a game ready is? I think it is but maybe not that common palm compared to pro palm. Jenpro is in good condition except for the heel where there is a bit of wear. And the lip of the T is shattered on the finger side. The perimeter is a mere 110cm once again, 4cm missing from the limit. I'll extend the T as I have to repair it anyway. Used for some years probably and atleast the thumb plastic is broken. As it was already in the glove weight topic this glove is 1077g in its original state. Edited May 16, 2022 by ArdeFIN 2 Quote
ArdeFIN Posted May 17, 2022 Author Posted May 17, 2022 Some findings after getting everything separated. Plastic in all the pieces of it. Disappointing finding was that the finger plastic was also cut in two. 2 Quote
ArdeFIN Posted May 17, 2022 Author Posted May 17, 2022 The T is ripped in between and this seems to have happed because the plastic reinforcing piece has bent in varying ways and hasn't fit in anymore. The supporting strip is in good shape and what's more is that both of the plastic pieces are still ok. Bent badly but not broken. Nice break mark on the T as the plastic on the right is a bit too long and there is some excess jenpro inside that have forced the break into slightly offset position. One detail from the inside of what was mentioned above. The spine of the T is built from three layers of jenpro and all of them extented to the lip of the T which doesn't help with the closure. With my sewing machine not really liking the thick jenpro stack either I cut them out as these have pretty much nothing to do. But add some weight. Closure detail on the offset T. When glove is closed the T is bent on break. In normal single T or double T the break is routed by the the spine to help the closure. This is not needed with the offset T but the problem that the offset creates is that the spine has to be bent around for over 90 degrees in two dimensions. Here adding just some 10mm of float to the boot will help in the closure a lot. Not a big thing but in new glove with everything being stiff this would give some help too. Also some 580ish closure on T would help. In the picture the T is heading straigth to the left while the glove itself is to the top of the picture. Not really very evident from the picture but easy to realise with T on hand. 3 Quote
ArdeFIN Posted May 22, 2022 Author Posted May 22, 2022 (edited) T day was today and I got most of it done. Actually all of it as there is only the support strip to put in and punch the holes to the T and then attach it to the glove. Here's all you need. Top row includes the T with new end pieces covering the old holes. Actually I cut out the pieces that are lying there just to show you how I do this kind of repair. There are also markings for the new holes but from previous experience I don't do any holes before I can make a test setup with the rest of the glove. Small change in the structure of the glove and the old holes won't match up with the glove anymore. Second row is the new Jenpro piece to replace the old broken one that is on the bottom. This is the worst part of this kind of a project. As there are old holes from previous sewings it has to be made pretty precise so that everything lines up as it was. In this case CCM has done it a bit awkwardly as the jenpro sheet isn't located edge to edge with the rest of T on the left side. The right side is running higher so it doesn't even follow the edge. I first sew one line through with few millimeters spacing to the actual sew line and then made the actual sewing as I had everything lined up as they should. This final sew was done from the other side to follow the original sewing line that left holes to the material which I don't want to see when everything is done. Then only one line left, the jenpro sheet is flipped around and sewn close to the pocket side edge. This line is even worse to do as you want to follow the edge of the new sheet and at the same time want to sew it on the existing line of holes. Inside of the pocket is looking perfect as it should but on the outside you can notice even with my mushy picture that the sewing didn't perfectly follow the old line of holes. I think there was a bit of flaw with the original sewing as my sewing is a straight line. But it doesn't look too bad and there's not much I could actually do at this point. So job welldone and now I have to make the rest of glove ready for the T. Which includes some plastic work. I thought I had more pictures but here's the only one I could find. I use red thread as I have it available and it's easy to see if there is other sewing too. So this is the new finger plastic. Edge piece is original and main difference to the original plastic is that this new one isn't even closely as concave as the original was. I don't like that much of curvature here and it's really difficult to do. Lace holes are yet to be done as I wanna do them to right places and the felt isn't really a good guide to it. Edit: the final install of the fingerplate. Still needs the holes but other than that it's ready to go. Edited May 24, 2022 by ArdeFIN 2 Quote
ArdeFIN Posted May 29, 2022 Author Posted May 29, 2022 So only some holes missing and the whole thumb plastic. Well not all of it as I cut the sheet already earlier and left it to wait for everything else gets done first. Some heat gunning and a few wooden press molds I've made for this process. Some more heat gunning and more delicate molding by fingertips. Then some holes drilled and pretty much done. Takes me some 4 hours to finish these but I'm quite picky for the shape and details. This looks one of the best I've made. Then some detail of the backhand protectors attachment. This piece is located in the middle of the break at the heel of the glove and it stiffens things quite a lot. Less now with 5mm holes instead of original 3mm. One detail of the reinforcement for the T. Some cutouts and more holes punched to areas where things should bend. 2 Quote
ArdeFIN Posted May 29, 2022 Author Posted May 29, 2022 (edited) Then to the building. Here's the glove with inner lacing done standing "under" it's own weight. Doesn't close completely but pretty well for it's not really super soft ie. not used a million times. Same build phase but glove open lying on the table. Laves are still pretty loose and I'll tighten them later on. Not much but enough to get the open loops away. This is the time when things get interesting. How does the renewed T sit into the glove? Is the T break anywhere near at where it should be. And how big or small does it look like now. This is about 114cm perimeter length and no T reinforcement piece inserted yet. Last picture for today is where everything is set up and matched in and completed. Only missing the pocket and the backhand protection anymore. Optically big? Compared to the beginning at the top of this topic. Edited May 29, 2022 by ArdeFIN 3 Quote
ArdeFIN Posted May 30, 2022 Author Posted May 30, 2022 Interesting enough that after a wash, disassemble, repairs, modifications and finally assemble the weight has only reduced by 25g and is now 1052g. Comparison to Vaughn VE8 tells you that these aren't too close to each other. A lot is same'ish though. Differencies are in many angles except the "590" closure. Premier break dives into the pocket more than VE8, cuff is more square to break on Premier and so on. Next picture is with the gloves as above and only shot from above. While they looked really well aligned IRL in the picture they aren't even close. Noticeable differencies anyway. And as said it's not the break line to forearm angle only that plays here. 1 Quote
ArdeFIN Posted May 30, 2022 Author Posted May 30, 2022 Then a few pictures to say it's complete. Feels a lot like the VE8 and I really like how this glove came out. It's really soft and flexible and there should be enough padding despite the original game ready. But even with added layer of padding the finger area feels really thin. Almost like there is only the inner fabric, plastic and 3DO covered with outer jenpro. Annoying actually how thin it feels. It's interesting to get this out for some real shots. FRom this angle the lip of the T is somehow awkward but that is because of the offset T. Wide open as it wants to be. While it's really smooth and soft it won't close itself but rather stays open like a spring. Not really strong spring but just enough. That's it for a Premier. Next glove. 4 Quote
ArdeFIN Posted June 5, 2022 Author Posted June 5, 2022 (edited) Thought I'd add a complicated GIF animation which displays the change better than comparing pictures side by side. Have to improve the photography a bit to get the pictures aligned better. I'll take this piece of art to one hour real life test today and then I can compare it to the other "590" gloves I've used. Probably works pretty much the same as VE8 but there is always a chance for differencies. Now it is tested and yes it is a lot like the VE8. Just a bit more angle than VE8 which I don't know if I like. From my recent experiences I like Bauer Ultrasonic a lot and that is a lot different angle glove. But I do catch well with my VE8 too and from this experience I'd say the Premier is on the edge of my liking. How it felt as a glove once again comparing to my VE8 the Premier felt more rigid. It is like sort of compressed all the extra air out and only the glove is there. Really liked that feel as it takes out all the mushyness from puck contact etc. Closure is near perfect and really soft. Materials feel nice to hand and there isn't anything that catches attention while playing. The pointy edge of the break might pop out later on when the materials settle to their new positions. Really good glove that is a pleasure to use. Edited June 5, 2022 by ArdeFIN 2 Quote
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