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ArdeFIN last won the day on November 27 2020

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  1. Few spots just to write some more text. First there was a slight crack on the thumb plastic which I welded and added some plastic I cut away from the thumb end of the sheet. Should be rigid enough to handle the abuse. It's messy as the welder wasn't clean and I'm really not a good plastic welder. Getting better with it but I have good tools. Then the lip of the T. It had been repaired at some time before me so there's nothing really to do. The plastics are interesting though and I wonder why Bauer got rid of this. It should make the lip a lot easier to break in. Well this compositi
  2. The old finger plastic sheet was cracked at multiple positions and took my time to make a new one straight without even try to plastic weld it together. Very simple shape to do, 3mm plastic used the old plate was a good model after I pressed it flat with some heat and a clamp. Then some drilling and hand sewing and I had a new padding ready for the glove. Added some 4mm foam for extra protection while the original felt was still feeling very thick and airy. The sewing is a bit off as the holes I drilled weren't matching exactly to the fabric and it is some sort of rubbery m
  3. Some repairs done, and slight modding at the same time. First the finger protection which was torn off the backhand as it usually is. Some jenpro added with sewing and it should be fine for some time again. Then I fitted the padding over and found that while the finger area is fine the thumb padding is lined strangely. There had been some overlaying which might have had some effect on operating the glove. When I get the glove back together I'll try to fix this a bit. Also I cutted out the padding next to pinky as it was over the edge a lot. Again some useless material
  4. So the RX is dismantled and awashed and now in a drying process. The cuff part already dried out so I got to make a little mod there. The wrist strap is attached back up to the wrist, and while I'm quite a big handed it was still getting over my wrist and hindering mobility. Also the nylon strap goes a weird curved route to the lacing between cuffa and palm, this mod should make it more straight and easier to tighten. And maybe it feels better tightened up as it won't pull towards palm that much. The same thing was on the Larceny too, but it was sewn together differently from factory
  5. So it came to an end with this little project. As said in the beginning this one was in very good shape to start with. Some sewings and an extra job for a new thumb plastic. And added some padding to the palm area and that's about it. I really don't like the shape of the glove and the pocket. I just can't get my mind set for that angle. But that's my problem, the glove is very good now. I'll take it to rink some day we get back there and try it out to see how I can catch some real shots. Some pictures about. If you have any questions please do ask, here or PM.
  6. Some things I'm struggling with. First the pinky loop. Is it really meant to come through the plastic loop for finger strap or just an oops? I think it's oops. It'll work nicely though so not a real problem here. Then more of a problem. The holes for the lacing. Outer layer and padding are matched to each other and I made some new holes there for the padding where needed and they do match nicely. But the palm (or inside fabric) side is very much off. There's nearly 30mm offset for worst spots. New holes aren't actually a going to fix the problem but I need to let the wrist side and
  7. Here's a better comparison for the small cutout modification. Left is the original where you can see the second layer of felt is reaching the break area heavily. Plastic isn't a real problem but adds up to the felt. And on the right the problem is minimized. The T is a normal construction only this time the thumb side is very wide. And as usual it's cut at where it bends when glove is opened. Break in for this glove would very likely include breaking that plastic in two. The longer plastic from the finger side isn't bent that much while opening the glove and it is not even bent over
  8. So the plastic job is done and I can save the original plastic for some other time. Might never be needed but it's not that big of a thing. You can tell that there are some differences right? Remains to be seen how it works out. The new plastic is a sort of todays model and the original is like they were in those days. Then the palm area, I added the poron layer here to enhance the protection. Also some minor modifications for closure, cutting some of the useless felt away at the pinky finger area of the break. Sewing holes can still be seen there. The plastic was cut about 5mm
  9. If there is already one I wasn't able to find please guide me there and add this picture in also. I'll start weighting my golve stock to see what is heavy and who are light ones. Picture is obviously from FB / JT At Simmons, most of you have seen this already. The lightest blocker I've seen IRL is Stomp at 650g. My lightest catcher is about 950g, Simmons UL. (This might change after I get all of my gloves weighted)
  10. Then to the inside of the glove and palm-finger area. The review mentioned the glove had moderate protection at fisrt but a while of use it became almost unusable protectionvise. And I have to say I don't wonder why. There is this normal felt layer for protection and for the best I could measure it's 6mm thick. And gets worse as it is so densely sewed to the plastic and supporting leather that the thickest parts I measured from there are 8mm. That is including 2,5mm plastic and the leather layer too. And it feels like thin HD foam as a whole. Well it's very easy to add extra layer here bu
  11. Now with Christmas and all I took my time to go by myself to a peaceful place and do something of my own. Reebok Larceny L9SR is now in pieces and here's something I found out breaking it. 🤪 First the wrist/cuff plate. It's made of a bunch of foam pieces glued together and that's it. Those foam plastics being very rejectant to many or any of the glues so had this structure been split from three places. Some contact glue and pressure and few wood blocks to keep it in shape for that while and it should be good again. I'm thinking of adding a 2mm PE sheet here to give some extra rigidi
  12. UV light will affect many materials in a harmful way and with very little effect to inside foams etc where the sweat and all will end up, I wouldn't use it. More of an opinion here just to mention.
  13. All of them 4 votes got in so Larceny it is then. And X-wing right after that with the Bauer left in the last position. But not the least. Bauer will get the RX10 blocker in within too. I'm getting quite a lot of gloves to do, just got a deal of a Sherwood by Pallas pair and probably getting a pair of Pallas gloves too. But with Corona over us I have a good time to work with these. Edit: changed the order a bit and took the Bauer as a second with Itech still waiting.
  14. You are referring to lock pliers? For opening the screws, you might try to tighten the nut instead of opening. Then the clued portion would come outwards from the nut and clear the threads. If you can makew the bolt tighten a bit and then open it might get opened after several repeats. Hindsight: using a thread lock instead rapid clue would be advisable and getting rid of those screws and replace them with some cord would be the best choice.
  15. One more fix for this glove before it's ready. The edge lacing of the finger protector was going through the jenpro. Easiest and cleanest would've been a new layer of jenpro but to give a little detail to it I cut 4 small tabs and sew those over the holes. Punch new holes to the tabs and ready to go. Inside look, the holes were breaking and when the it has began the best way is to replace or add a layer over. Bit of a disappointment was the closure that isn't as good as I was hoping, but the reason is obvious. I didn't curl or convex the pinky area enough. It's not a big
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