ArdeFIN

Haven't tried it, but from how the slide plates look and how Warrior has used the effort to make them very product specific to their own knee block design I would say that they don't fit very good on CCM blocks. This however is also a question of how much are you willing to modify the plates to fit them. Another question is if you are able to mod them then it would be the same effort to make your own Eflex specific plates from bare sheet of plastic. It's not really that difficult if you have heat blower, plastic sheet, some cutting device, lace and some hand skills.

I'd say 4mm is the normal gear lace size. Just saying it out Warrior has reduced the lace size in their gloves closer to 3mm (G6 atleast) and it isn't long lasting either. Paracords, that I've seen so far don't last long in the perimeter. Neither it is long lasting in the pocket but better than perimeter that is rubbed to ice and will get through paracord quickly.

I would try to cover the areas circled with green. Thumb side is cut short but you can add material towards wrist too. It's not an area where you get stingers usually, so it's not that much of a use. On the finger side cover all the area your fingers are on, and nothing else. The else is just, well useless. In the break area, leave good gaps to keep the glove easy to operate. Remember that puck isn't very small, while the corner of the puck can definitely pinch you through a smallish gap. After you get the pieces cut and attached you try the "closure" with the added padding. If it is resisting then cut excess to help it. When you get into putting everything together, remember to check the closure and operation multiple times and notice that the basic jenpro and padding should not be stiff at all if everything is right. Don't route the wrist strap nylon through the thumb plastic, only through the nylon and if you want then through styrofoam. If possible add a sheet of plastic with similar cutouts that are on the thumb plastic to support the nylon strap. This will help you keep the thumb plastic alive for extented period. Welding might work if you get all cracks welded throughly to the ends. I don't believe in glue at all with these plastic types as these are "greasy" and most of the glues will not attach at all. Superglue will not, I use PE sheet pieces to protect clamps and to mold the piece being glued with superglue.

I don't actually know so I just suppose that the pad has some internal loops attached to the front skin, and those loops are only accessible if you open the toe binding. So if you dare to open the binding then easy fix, but if not then I think it's not possible to relace. Sewing those bindings is always done by hand and with a big needle and thick wax thread. You would have to figure a new way if you was to use the speedy sticher. It's really not very difficult job though if you can source a proper needle and thread. That lace is propably worn due to something rubbing there, velcro is my favorite of destroyers.

Ok. I think people @GGSU Facebook have sourced sheets somewhere in the US. This is not really an option for me due to shipping and customs, would make a 100dollar sheet cost me atleast 200eur. Maybe one day we have D3O available in Europe too, or maybe we just don't know yet.

@ser33 This I would like to know too for the D3O. I sourced Poron XRD from a Finnish supplier that imports Poron and other similar materials from Britain. The big but here is that the XRD I received, while really well absorbs the impact, is a lot different from what Bauer and some other sport manufacturers use and say it is XRD. My XRD far from the softness of those. By no means it's hard or firm, but not soft. This is a bit of a problem though because I opted for 5mm thick sheet which I thought would be softish and so would fit nicely in to the palm of a catcher. Yes it still fits in, but the thickness more obvious than I would like and makes the catcher feel somewhat unwieldy. That is for the feel of and I don't know if it actually changes anything in catching pucks. And no, adding 5mm of padding doesn't change the closure or make it any stiffer if it is placed right, away from the fold areas.

When wearing the original AB PRO (Black with red) and possibly even the NHL Pro AB in original form it is a known issue that the chest part is hanging low opening neck for puck. But I'd quess that too, no neck guard. That shoulder hit looks bad for a NHL pro unit though since it's pretty much struck to the front of the arm? The older AB PRO has very minimal protection on sides but I don't know about the AB18? Arms in that one do look like they'd offer more cover around the bicep.

From what I've read and studied about, the Poron XRD and D3O are two different types of protective foams. Poron XRD kills the impact by (somehow) sucking the energy in while the D3O uses that energy to transform into solid sheet for a minimal moment of the impact. That is why these are used differently, D3O in front line to puck and Poron XRD is located closer to the protected matter such as hand in a catcher. Using these materials requires a lot of knowledge and also you have to understand the other materials and behaviors included. I think CCM does know what they when they add D3O to the top layer as well as Bauer adding Poron XRD into the deeper insides. And we can get good results following that lead.

As @ser33 said we'll find out when you open it. Propably, but hard to tell from the angle of photo, you'll need new thumb plastic. Could be broken at the end of thumb, and also the usual place where the wrist strap is. That corner which isn't held with thumb seems to be somewhat off which hints there is broken plastic inside. Finger plastic is good but can be a bit cut in two at the boot where there is that small worn area. Nice quessing game here If you can prepare good jenpro patches and nylon if needed, then cobbler is the professional you need to sew them together. The T will be a problem unless you find a good cobbler and you can make good enough parts and dismantle it enough. These are terrible to repair without sewing machine, hats off to @ser33 for hand sewing these. Wish I could get a few of these repairable 580 models to here as we have a huge demand and almost no offerings. I don't think it is any better for most of us but as it is so praised everybody wants to have one to try.

First soak 12 hours in cold water + vinegar, some mixing and rubbing can be done. That kills the smells and gets water soluble dirt running plus the vinegar as acid does some cleaning job too. Then good rinse with atleast few times with fresh water, does not need to become clear yet. Then some detergent and water for the next 12 hours. Water can be warm to start with but it will cold at the end anyways. Mixing, rubbing, brushing. Again rinse and now it's time to get it clean so it will require more fresh water changes. Rinse under flowing water isn't really doing the job here! Soak and rinse is the way to go. Few notes from my experience with C/A washing. The nylon fabric is plastic backed and thus it is very much water proof. Water will go through sewing holes(!) and all the places where the backing is worn enough. So it will take some effort to get all the filth out. The foam on the chest area (not all the unit have this) will hold a lot of water into it and the same for the filth. And when you have good clear rinse then the same problem is with drying the unit as the nylon is still very water proof. Time is your friend here, good airflow with fan and even some cautious heating will speed things a little. When mixing detergents and whatever, be careful to not make them useless. Like Vinegar being acidious and laundry detergent usually is somewhat alkaline and those combined it will be neutral or which ever is added more. Anyway the effect of either is diminished. That is why I always use vinegar first and then detergent in a separate phases. Why I would not use the laundry machine? Mostly because the biggest effect the machine gives to washing is the rubbing of the materials inside the drum. Put 20 pairs of socks in and they will rub each other a lot while the program is running. Hockey gear then is made with different types of plastics molded to certain shape and additonal fabrics. The rubbing effect is again diminished by the shape of the parts and many spots might go without getting any rubbing. The foams would need some squeeze to get the water and filth out of them and let new water and detergent in in exchange. The machine will get the gear cleaner, no doubt on that, but I'd say it won't last nearly as long as it will with a good old fashion soak and rinse operation. Which obviously is involving a lot more work into it too.

For CCM/True/Lefevre it also comes from the build of the T and attaching to the glove. That Werners Bauer can be partly of the same but also the webbing being too tight to let the T work "freely". It has a long range of movement when glove is flat open to completely closed. My VE8 glove does a bit of the same and there the webbing isn't problem and the T itself should be flexible enough but obviously not. It's not that bad and only when closed but that is the shape I usually get to see after a save. Eh, yeah.

Would it be that it helps keep chesty inside the waist edge of the pants? Is there a rise in the tuck-in style in NHL or has it always been that way. I've noticed a lot of those lately and not so much non-tucking goalies. Edit: Or is he even tucking-in at all?

What are your thoughts of the Conn Smythe? I think that McDavid was the right one over Barkov, great player awesome points in the finals and in the playoffs. Barkov is really close, we could argue him holding multiple superstars out of points, except McDavid in finals, in all playoff games (was it Barkov in 1-3 and 7 that held McDavid back?) and he also scored points steadily except for the finals... Happy for Panthers to win, but at the same time I hope to see Oilers in the finals soon again. Maybe already 2025?

CCM Pro with elbow floaters from the AB Pro. Which is kind of interesting as those are too wide for NHL rules if not customized. Shoulder cups under the floaters looks to be something non-original too.

Out of nowhere I read an interesting stat about Barkov that he is +1 on the time he has been on ice shorthanded (in playoffs for sure)? Like Florida has scored once and let in no goals at that time... Couldn't find any data to see it easily but it was some public story so I believe someone checked it through. Propably is for the whole shorthanded line but the story was about Barkov.