ArdeFIN

@ser33 This I would like to know too for the D3O. I sourced Poron XRD from a Finnish supplier that imports Poron and other similar materials from Britain. The big but here is that the XRD I received, while really well absorbs the impact, is a lot different from what Bauer and some other sport manufacturers use and say it is XRD. My XRD far from the softness of those. By no means it's hard or firm, but not soft. This is a bit of a problem though because I opted for 5mm thick sheet which I thought would be softish and so would fit nicely in to the palm of a catcher. Yes it still fits in, but the thickness more obvious than I would like and makes the catcher feel somewhat unwieldy. That is for the feel of and I don't know if it actually changes anything in catching pucks. And no, adding 5mm of padding doesn't change the closure or make it any stiffer if it is placed right, away from the fold areas.

When wearing the original AB PRO (Black with red) and possibly even the NHL Pro AB in original form it is a known issue that the chest part is hanging low opening neck for puck. But I'd quess that too, no neck guard. That shoulder hit looks bad for a NHL pro unit though since it's pretty much struck to the front of the arm? The older AB PRO has very minimal protection on sides but I don't know about the AB18? Arms in that one do look like they'd offer more cover around the bicep.

From what I've read and studied about, the Poron XRD and D3O are two different types of protective foams. Poron XRD kills the impact by (somehow) sucking the energy in while the D3O uses that energy to transform into solid sheet for a minimal moment of the impact. That is why these are used differently, D3O in front line to puck and Poron XRD is located closer to the protected matter such as hand in a catcher. Using these materials requires a lot of knowledge and also you have to understand the other materials and behaviors included. I think CCM does know what they when they add D3O to the top layer as well as Bauer adding Poron XRD into the deeper insides. And we can get good results following that lead.

As @ser33 said we'll find out when you open it. Propably, but hard to tell from the angle of photo, you'll need new thumb plastic. Could be broken at the end of thumb, and also the usual place where the wrist strap is. That corner which isn't held with thumb seems to be somewhat off which hints there is broken plastic inside. Finger plastic is good but can be a bit cut in two at the boot where there is that small worn area. Nice quessing game here If you can prepare good jenpro patches and nylon if needed, then cobbler is the professional you need to sew them together. The T will be a problem unless you find a good cobbler and you can make good enough parts and dismantle it enough. These are terrible to repair without sewing machine, hats off to @ser33 for hand sewing these. Wish I could get a few of these repairable 580 models to here as we have a huge demand and almost no offerings. I don't think it is any better for most of us but as it is so praised everybody wants to have one to try.

First soak 12 hours in cold water + vinegar, some mixing and rubbing can be done. That kills the smells and gets water soluble dirt running plus the vinegar as acid does some cleaning job too. Then good rinse with atleast few times with fresh water, does not need to become clear yet. Then some detergent and water for the next 12 hours. Water can be warm to start with but it will cold at the end anyways. Mixing, rubbing, brushing. Again rinse and now it's time to get it clean so it will require more fresh water changes. Rinse under flowing water isn't really doing the job here! Soak and rinse is the way to go. Few notes from my experience with C/A washing. The nylon fabric is plastic backed and thus it is very much water proof. Water will go through sewing holes(!) and all the places where the backing is worn enough. So it will take some effort to get all the filth out. The foam on the chest area (not all the unit have this) will hold a lot of water into it and the same for the filth. And when you have good clear rinse then the same problem is with drying the unit as the nylon is still very water proof. Time is your friend here, good airflow with fan and even some cautious heating will speed things a little. When mixing detergents and whatever, be careful to not make them useless. Like Vinegar being acidious and laundry detergent usually is somewhat alkaline and those combined it will be neutral or which ever is added more. Anyway the effect of either is diminished. That is why I always use vinegar first and then detergent in a separate phases. Why I would not use the laundry machine? Mostly because the biggest effect the machine gives to washing is the rubbing of the materials inside the drum. Put 20 pairs of socks in and they will rub each other a lot while the program is running. Hockey gear then is made with different types of plastics molded to certain shape and additonal fabrics. The rubbing effect is again diminished by the shape of the parts and many spots might go without getting any rubbing. The foams would need some squeeze to get the water and filth out of them and let new water and detergent in in exchange. The machine will get the gear cleaner, no doubt on that, but I'd say it won't last nearly as long as it will with a good old fashion soak and rinse operation. Which obviously is involving a lot more work into it too.

For CCM/True/Lefevre it also comes from the build of the T and attaching to the glove. That Werners Bauer can be partly of the same but also the webbing being too tight to let the T work "freely". It has a long range of movement when glove is flat open to completely closed. My VE8 glove does a bit of the same and there the webbing isn't problem and the T itself should be flexible enough but obviously not. It's not that bad and only when closed but that is the shape I usually get to see after a save. Eh, yeah.

Would it be that it helps keep chesty inside the waist edge of the pants? Is there a rise in the tuck-in style in NHL or has it always been that way. I've noticed a lot of those lately and not so much non-tucking goalies. Edit: Or is he even tucking-in at all?

What are your thoughts of the Conn Smythe? I think that McDavid was the right one over Barkov, great player awesome points in the finals and in the playoffs. Barkov is really close, we could argue him holding multiple superstars out of points, except McDavid in finals, in all playoff games (was it Barkov in 1-3 and 7 that held McDavid back?) and he also scored points steadily except for the finals... Happy for Panthers to win, but at the same time I hope to see Oilers in the finals soon again. Maybe already 2025?

CCM Pro with elbow floaters from the AB Pro. Which is kind of interesting as those are too wide for NHL rules if not customized. Shoulder cups under the floaters looks to be something non-original too.

Out of nowhere I read an interesting stat about Barkov that he is +1 on the time he has been on ice shorthanded (in playoffs for sure)? Like Florida has scored once and let in no goals at that time... Couldn't find any data to see it easily but it was some public story so I believe someone checked it through. Propably is for the whole shorthanded line but the story was about Barkov.

Yes, I think that is why I left it into that pile, I didn't have the skills and materials to fix it properly. But it actually isn't that bad at all. The finger edge isn't really broken but just the lace is missing. Also some previous owner has done some repairs to the pocket edge. But other than those it seems to need a dismantle, good wash process and some fixing and then some new lace into the rebuild. I don't think I like the Thief that much at all, but it can always be sold to next happy owner. Can any of you find a picture where this glove is in use by Weekes? I didn't find any where he would've used Brian's at all. If that is KW signature on the backhand strapping then this should be NHL approved glove, but sure he could've used it in the AHL etc. while being ready for NHL.

What do you say about this one? I was looking for a pair of skates I have in the storage and found this in a pile. I remember it came to me in a bag of "waste" gloves. Which included one Simmons UL that I already refurbished a long time ago. Maybe I'll have to do this one too.

Long time lurker and so on, this time Vaughn VE8 pads 33+2. Good condition and "only" 100€. Didn't find almost any marks of use except normal coloring etc. RRC straps I think are removed and ankle cover is cut somewhat. Gorilla tape on knee blocks but that will be changed to plastic right away to start with. I was actually more interested in SLR line but these came available, maybe later with the SLR then...

That's ingenious! It allows some twisting and settling but propably doesn't force the finger to twist.

Kind of like Bauer did with skates, first the Vapor and Supreme were opposite to player skates in fit, and then after 2S they changed the fit between Vapor and Supreme to mess everything. So why did they end up with something like this? Is the V10 or V11 going to be the "600" style as SLR2 was before or what? And so me liking the VE8 catcher should now get me SLR4 to get the same feeling? V9 wasn't even close to either SLR2 nor VE8. And talking of XP models here, I don't like the 2-piece ones at all. Edit: checked the THS webshop and they have really nice lineup with "actual" pictures of the gloves side by side. What a mess is it with V10 and SLR4 As Toobs close called it, it is the elastic that is only on one side of the finger that is doing things. I've fixed all my Vaughn blockers so that the elastics are on both sides since Vaughn uses dual elastic that can be split "easily". I think I've used similar method on some other brand blockers too. This is one design thing that once again makes you wonder why they do it so bad? It wouldn't be any more difficult to do it better when building the glove. I was able to fix the issue somewhat without dismantling the whole glove.