Jump to content

ArdeFIN

Members
  • Posts

    513
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

ArdeFIN last won the day on September 6

ArdeFIN had the most liked content!

Personal Information

  • Location
    Finland

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

ArdeFIN's Achievements

Proficient

Proficient (10/14)

  • Dedicated
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Reacting Well

Recent Badges

210

Reputation

  1. This is only my opinion based on what I've seen and think of what will happen during the break in. You don't need the shower to be hottest, but more so you need the unit to be througly wet. That will lubricate every seam and materials so that they'll take their place faster and easier. Also when wet I'd suggest you to do stretching to the unit, like bend your arms as much as you can for a little while, then do the opposite movement and try to work with all the fabric there is. Only moving will do the trick too, but I think it'll be faster when you give it a little stretch and give the materials a short time to "realize" what's happening. Sort of same thing that you do for your new gloves, first tie it closed for over night with some pressure over maybe, then for the next night put a stick to hold it as open as possible. The heat itself won't soften anything permanently and you don't want the plastics to soften at all and neither you want the foams to collapse. That's what is protecting you afterall, the rigid plastic parts and thick soft foams!
  2. Thanks. Well not a master still, I'm just doing this for hobby and when I start some hobby I'm into it almost 100%. I haven't done any repairs for money so far but for friends and team mates and most of the repairs for myself. I did invest to a sewing machine a lot of money to get a machine that I get things done with. This Pfaff I have is my second machine and still I would like to have something different before having to own two different machines. But still I have invested a lot, I mean a lot, more to the gear itself. And only counting the gear I'm using currently. And playing hockey is my hobby too. The best part with that sewing machine is that it'll last my lifetime probably and when I'm done with sewing I still can sell it for some refund. But don't take this as a advice, just telling you. I still have to and partly also want to do some sewing by hand. FrankenCCM to mention. Keep up the good work, this really gives a rest to ones mind. As long as you don't do your daily work with the hockey gear repairing 😅
  3. There sure is a lot of length to sew by hand. 😶 But really nice work, hopefully it pays off. Have you considered investing into a suitable sewing machine? Would be worth it...
  4. Good pick, might really be some vinyl or even a plastic sheet like PE. That's what I have on my GT pads and yes it slides. Kova is offering vinyl for kneewings and Varusteverstas makes a lot of vinyl swaps too. My Reebok XLTs are getting that too to test it IRL. Should be really slick from what I've heard but can it beat the PE plastic.
  5. Add some beef to it! So here we go, the wood block is 2x4" and about 50cm wide as is my shoulder width. And it is trying to imitate my shoulder shapes in all other dimensions too. The shoulder cups from Premier aren't that wide I was afraid at first and actually very suitable for recreational gameplay. Not too big to annoy players but big enough to protect properly atleast. The height (and width too) adjustment of the CCM is just genius design, nothing needed to be redone. And then all the gadgets except for the ABs shoulder cups, which I just realised, installed on. Somehow the shape reminds from Bauer Hyperlite or Elite C/As.
  6. Ok, some detail pictures of the FrankenCCM. First a basic overview without the floaters, pretty big shape with a bit of an optical distortion. Rib protection with the little tab to close the top plate. Same angle but the top plate opened. Don't even know yet if the tab is useable after all. Hopefully it is. Belly protection updated as it looks to me that the M size is a bit short now that it's not hanging low on my neck. Original flap with 10mm of soft foam and 1mm plastic sheets to add some rigidity. The foam alone was very floppy and this part will also hold things in place as I like to tuck my C/A with some specific modifications done to my Warrior pants.
  7. Mixed feelings on this one, it has a new made finger plate which in my opinion is a bit off but not too bad. Previous owner had made a skatelace pocket but and someone had done the other lacing possibly the person who made the new plate but for the quality of that I wouldn't believe that person could lace the glove so wrong. So there is lot to rethink with this one but also it might be that the reasons for closure and all have already been discovered. It does look quite smallish but when I measured the perimeter that is about 115cm with some error margin. I would like a bit more pocket area but not possible without bigger operations. Dismantled the glove that took about an hour and then throughly washed as usual. Tomorrow all of it should be dry and clean. And when I get the body of the FrankenCCM done I'll get into this one.
  8. The fabrics all around are really good, they do show the use but really not much to repair. Then the padding, that instead is dead. All the plastics are out of shape or broken and all the softer foams have been squeezed or worn out to dust. Didn't get any actual pictures but mine looks alot like this one from SLS: There's a lot to do before it's back in the level I wan't to have when playing. But there's no hurry, I can go with my Brown and maybe with the FrankenCCM that is building in a slow pace too. And what's more it is interesting to open the Passau and see how they've done the protection. Constructionally I didn't see anything special.
  9. Sold my Vaughn VE8 C/A and bought a new project again 😆 This time it is (finally) a Passau. I don't know the generation but it should be white which I don't really like to start with. But for 40 euros and to own a Passau. I don't expect it to be in a new-like condition but it should be pretty good still. Just forgot to pick up the packet but tomorrow I'll give myself a new chance...
  10. Winegar soakin, then some normal detergent soakin and wash. Rubbing and brushing speeds up the operation. Flush especially thicker gear like chest&arms really well to get all the stains out from the padding too. Those foams soak in a lot of stuff and won't let go easily. I don't know but am thinking that suns UV radiation wouldn't do any good for plastics used in hockey gear? For drying I prefer heated air circulation. Circulation meaning that the wet air goes out and new fresh air is heated to dry the gear. Should do the same if the outside temperature is above 30 degrees celsius 😅 and some wind included. None of the above have really good effect on brown staining. Baking soda might do some cleaning too, but I haven't experienced that.
  11. Don't know about the GT2 model but GT had small lifter bumbs next to neck under the floaters. If those are also in the newer models you could remove it to lower the floater. That might slope the floater towards your neck so it might require some modification or different setup for the shoulder cups to lower them too. I'm looking forward to find myself a GT2 pro and have one available ATM but money is a bit of a problem and the price is pretty high but the unit is only ~30 times used so pretty much new. I'm tempted for sure as I loved the GT pro I had.
  12. Not much has happened with this one as I got a motivational boost to finish the Bauer gloves in between. Some design and thoughts have run over my mind and then I made the secondary shoulder cups from the AB ones. After I got them done I started thinking if I should install them "upsidedown" a little like Vaughn to add some plating to the armpit area. And get rid of the extra mass over my shoulders as there will be plenty and hopefully it doesn't get in way of my mask when looking backwards. Some holes have to be done to the edge so that I can lace them on and then I'm opted to start with the shoulder floaters. And maybe figure out something to hold the rib plates together but to still be able to open the buckles too.
  13. Alright it's time for a semi-final update for this project. So the blocker was remaining and there was some stiching to be renewed and the plate was broken. After dismantling and closer evaluation the palm needed to be replaced and the plate was destroyed and needed a replacement too. Plate part doesn't really include anything fancy, original was polystyrene foam - HD plasticfoam - plastic plate. The shape in the top part is so awkward that I just took the plate from my older project One.9 and fitted it in. The blockers aren't identical but there are some minimal size changes which gave an extra job to do. The palm was easy to decide and make a Warrior swap, that goes easily for this type of blocker that open on the long side for full length. The thumb area doesn't show but there's a tab of hook side of the velcro and the original jenpro that was sewn to the thumb of the palm remade to hold the Warriors thumb attachment. Picture of it later. I also modified the fingerprotections somewhat but that didn't work out as good as I would've hoped for. When I get these to the icetesting it'll reveal if I have to try and make some changes. Index finger protection is pretty basic with added length and it work well. Same construction on my One.9 blocker. And some washing and cleaning. There was some glued-on ads at some point in the history and now there is only the glue left. Don't use any glue on any gear unless really have to. All of the "Bauer" prints literally fell of with warm water washing and some rubbing. I'm looking forward to get my pads back from Varusteverstas (Kova manufacturer) and then I'm going to have an Allblackday on ice. The catcher feels so great every time I try it on that I'm exited on waiting to get out there...
  14. Got a chance to touch and feel this unit and compare it to 5.9. The arm paddings are so thin. Almost no soft materials there and not that much of the harder either. Can't just believe it would sting through. And the comparison between gave me very little in differences, like 3DO is there but what else. Maybe some millimeters of thickness in some paddings but couldn't really measure that. Not really impressed about these C/As at all, maybe even less than the Eflex 2 series. Just to mention, I'm not telling these couldn't perform IRL, just that the feeling of these aren't impressive.
  15. I only have Quick Slide in my possession ATM so I cannot compare directly but in pictures they look identical.
×
×
  • Create New...