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indykrap

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Posts posted by indykrap

  1. Hey all,

    So, I did a dumb. I was changing the cage on my mask (Sportsmask X8) when one of the screws was stuck - I think the contact cement from the foam got caught in it and bonded the screw to the post, so it wasn't moving. Out of frustration, I decided to cut the screw head off and replace it. However, in the process, I scraped at the top coat of paint on my mask, exposing the next layer (light beige fibreglass, I believe). I took out some acrylic paints and clear coat to cover this up, and yes - it's real ugly, so I am thinking of accelerating my plan to sand down the top layer and do a proper paint and clear coat of it. 

    My question is - have I harmed the integrity of the mask in any way doing this? I have checked on the other side and there is no damage, and it feels structurally sound. Also, tried the coin tapping trick someone mentioned here by seeing if it sounds different on the exposed area and it does not. Any other advice on how to check would be great. If it's in need of a replacement, I also accept that as it's about 8 years old at this point and despite cage and foam replacements is coming due.

    Note: I haven't used and don't plan on using it unless I'm confident in it.

    IMG_4184.thumb.jpg.90fe620d9f3b04f3432f44dfde975a48.jpg

  2. 7 minutes ago, coopaloop1234 said:

    Aside from 5 hole closure being 90% technique and 10% gear, I'm curious what you're wanting to achieve precisely? You mention that you feel like you're "missing something", but what do you mean by that? 

    Are you feeling like you want to have a stronger connection to your pad for added responsiveness? 

    I wore my pads like you do for years, recently tightened up the calf wrap to the next stitch line in to get a more responsive feel from my pads as they do tend to "hang" off your leg a bit. 

    Yeah - more responsive sounds about right. I did try this in one game and I liked the responsiveness, but it did feel somewhat awkward because I'm so used to looser pads (so that's on me). Noting that down! Thanks @coopaloop1234 for the great advice (as per usual).

  3. Hey all,

    I've been a Warrior user for about four years now (G3 and now G5) and following random bits of advice online, but really realizing I don't have a good fulsome grasp of how I like my pads strapped in. I get good performance most days, but feel like I'm missing "something". So I'm asking all of you!

    Here's my setup (bottom up):

    - Boot/toe strap removed. Added Prolace armor with about two knots

    - Calf wrap about halfway

    - Knee strapped to calf, but kept loose and only up to the end of the velcro

    - Buckles/nylon straps removed

    Picture attached, but ignore the knee wing as I have it on there for experimenting. Also, for reference, I do have pretty big legs, so I keep mine fairly loose as a result.

     

    Some questions I have:

    1- How do you strap your pads? 

    2- Is this too loose? Should I consider going tighter in some way?

    3- Does going to the knee aid in five hole closure at all? I feel my technique is decent, but my closure is meh, even with decent curve. 

    4- Should I use the nylon straps? I recall a lot of people taking them off their G3s, so I did then and took it off when I got these. I generally have no issue with staying on the block.

     

    I usually spend my summer skates getting more "dialed in" and working on gear stuff, so any advice or suggestions are welcome. Thanks all!

    IMG_4181.jpg

  4. 1 hour ago, coopaloop1234 said:

    In case you guys are wondering, yes, I have in fact touched that set they're using in the video.

    Line up for questions below. 

      |
     V

    On a scale of Becel to Land O'Lakes, how butter is that 6.1 glove?

  5. 1 hour ago, bunnyman666 said:

    So many people in the know also say how flawed the testing is; after all, how can a mask dubbed “widow maker” pass the CSA testing? Between the prohibitive costs (including three masks) and the dubious testing, it’s no wonder that as long as the client doesn’t need certification, why go through it?

    I'm curious about this too. The CSA standard is publicly available (for a fee, natch), so I wonder if it does make the distinction or there is much testing difference between goalie and player helmets.

    https://www.csagroup.org/store/product/Z262.1-15/

    I did a work term there a decade ago and I know all the testing is in Rexdale (North Toronto) - wonder if they'd ever do a tour!

  6. Interesting. Was going back and forth between a Sportsmask x8 and Coveted A5 for my next mask - I've had an x8 since 2014, and it's due for a replacement (even after foam/cage/hardware replacements). Leaning Coveted and I think I may be sold. 

  7. On 3/26/2022 at 3:00 PM, coopaloop1234 said:

    There's two gloves and they both can some with sewn on or removable internals, and both have an increased pocket. 

    Difference being the break options. You can get the standard ritual break (75) and warriors version of a 580 break which is more of an in between of 0580 and 590. 

     

    This is really interesting to me - coming from a G4 but interested in looking at the G6 glove. Which is which for the break? i.e. is sewn in the 580ish?

  8. Snapped the cap off a tooth once... opening my water bottle with my teeth. Skated over to the bench and handed it to one of my players to weird him out. Obviously I play up the story a lot more when I tell other people.

    Other than that, just the usual twangs and pains - usually in the hip area and feeling it in the knee. Did really pull my groin when I was starting out by jumping out and taking shots before properly stretching, which was pretty brutal. Thank fully no problems with hits to the head - got one right between the eyes that dented my cage and had a player kick my cage once while falling down, but no incident from either other than having to replace an annoyingly expensive piece of gear.

    Capture.JPG

    30E12813-AF89-4DFD-920C-182539F2113B.jpg

    • Like 2
  9. Couple of pics from this week's experimentation. Used a 25mm (1") hole saw to cut the initial holes and a dovetail saw (it's what I had around) to trim the paddle. Sanded down with 220 grit and used two-part epoxy to seal everything:

    Old Warrior STR foam core to test the process/feel of it:

    IMG_4010.jpg

    - cut the initial hole and then trimmed a bit off the paddle. It felt good, but not as sturdy to hold with the paddle part removed, so I changed it up for the next one:

     

    CCM Premier 2.9 Composite - drilled the initial hole for height/placement. I think i got this one a bit deeper than I hoped, but it does feel comfortable.

    IMG_4011.jpg

     

    After playing around a bit with it at home, I decided to trim below the hole to fit a bit better. Felt my blocker was snagging on it. Could have really used a dremel or sawzall here! haha

    IMG_4013.jpg

    IMG_4015.jpg

    I used it sunday at a pickup and it felt really good to play with. There was a slight awkward feeling of the top area kind of poking my finger when i would hold it awkwardly (i.e during a scramble or if I recovered poorly from a poke), so I think i'm going to either grind it down a bit to soften it or just add a few layers of tape to soften it. I see most people use grip tape, so that might be a better play to add some layers and make it more comfortable. I'm very open to advice on this.

    All in all, a really fun experiment. I'll need some time to iron it out and get the issues sorted before I do it to the main stick though. When I do I'll be using a sawzall or dremel to do it nice and clean, though.

    • Like 1
  10. Going to try it out this weekend - using a hole saw to cut a notch in the paddle (using only half of the saw to cut a semi-circle into the paddle), sand it to smooth, and then epoxy it to seal. I'll come back with pictures! Any tips/thoughts about this method?

    Will use an old foam core as a test run to get the template right, then do it to one of my CCM composites (the older, beat-up, only-good-for-practice one). If I like it well enough I'll do it to my main stick.

  11. Been using Febreze Antibacterial for years. Smells good, easy to find/relatively inexpensive, doesn't dry stuff out, and smells good while drying so it doesn't stink up the house airing out!

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  12. 3 minutes ago, ZamboniTony said:

    The leg pads seem to be solid, but anything unique with the Glove/Blocker that stands out? The blocker is crazy comfy, but I really liked how the Bauer 3x Glove fit, i'm trying to decide if i just go all in warrior and get over the glove or piece meal it.

     

    Thoughts with those who have the glove and/or blocker?

    I love the blocker - got a G5 Sr+. solid rebounds, comfortable, and the adjustability is great. I have the G4 glove so I can't speak to G5s, but it's a total vacuum and also really comfy and easy to adjust to your hand. Some guys on here really prefer the sewn-in glove instead of the replaceable palm because it feels sturdier and more consistent though, and that's not offered with the G series at stock (GT though?)

  13. 9 minutes ago, coopaloop1234 said:

    I know in the G3 days, the bigger shops carried them regularly. I'm guessing the turn over on them wasn't high enough to warrant keeping them on hand.

    There shouldn't be an issue with getting your local shop to special order them for you. As long as they typically deal with Warrior products it should be straight forward.

    Right - I remember when the G3 seemed like the most popular thing in the goalie world. Now that it's settled in as "just another line" that makes sense.

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