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Brians G-netik 5.0 glove refurbish


ArdeFIN

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Next up is Brians G-netik (5.0 I think) with "Made in Canada" coolness. This is third of kind for me so it's kind of redo the old tricks. Last two were for my colleague and he already asked if I would like to swap this for his secondary unit that is two-piece construction. And I might as I've liked more of two-piece cuff.

Thumb plastic is broken, otherwise it's in decent condition. Smelly and filthy as they always are.

I'll fix the classic problem of Gnetik T lip which bends inwards when fully opened. 

Some new lace for the perimeter and this should do fine again.

Brians plastic logo is fixed with weave that is glued to stay, argh!

Again, feel free to comment and ask questions. 

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Was so exited once again that I forgot to take any useful pictures. Only some that will help later when I get this one back together.

One from insides of the thumb area.

Protection is different from any other I remember seeing, built from four segmented slices. It's very good design I think, but maybe not so cost effective vs molded plastic.

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Then the thumb plastic, which is in two pieces and actually has a lot of cracks. So definitely a new one needed. Original is 2,5mm thick which I don't have. It's not that big and will probably face some hefty shots so 3mm PE will be the material. Luckily it's not very complicated shape so it shouldn't be a problem to fabricate.

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Then to the problematic T. This is one of them not so succesful designs. Here's what inside.

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From what I remember from the two earlier Gnetiks that were Indonesian/Philippines(?) origin here is a little difference. I don't remember those plastics at all. Jenpro is very sharply cutted with actually no extra on the ends of lip. Not a problem here as the pocket is big enough anyway.

The Brians logo was broken and replaced with weave. Colleague want's this one for himself so took that black away, cleared away glue and replace with red. Few other red highlighrs will be added too. Kind of cool to do something like this, breaking the routine of doing these projects.

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Having so much fun doing this I wouldn't believe in the beginning. Hopefully it'll be what is wanted for. And hopefully no claims for look-a-like Brians logo 😁 Well it is Brians afterall...IMG_20200609_175408.thumb.jpg.bfb3527ce6145ea853a6189f71fd3434.jpg

Black piece of Jenpro to support the T joint, that is common place to fail within time. Red shape at the edge reinforces the edge at the same time. Usually here will be issues and there was actually a small cracks already.

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Small slice to support the edge and cover against the edge of the finger plate plastic.

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New plastics to spine of the T, 2mm thick PE. 5mm holes drilled and rounded all around.

T lip is forming out, some sewing still to be done.

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Last image of the thumb plastic. Keeps me annouyed.😀

It's not that hard to do but I just don't like it so much. Getting fingertips burned and what else...

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Washing program ended today and always amazed of the amount of filth that is removed. Washing method was the same as with Simmons. 

Brians has used felt and it'll take some time air dry. But are we in a hurry here?

So the T project goes on, sewing around and added pices of Jenpro at the ends of spines. Again a common place to fail.

Lip modification came out pretty good, a little different from the two units I've done before as I had to repair the edge of the lip here. That then alters the amount of cut on pocket edge. But it should be close to whats been done before.

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Then the plastic project. First a piece of paper and a pen. Draw the outline from original part. Then take a sheet of new material, copy the outline and cut. I use a jigsaw with small toothed wood blade. Cuts really smooth and clean and leaves just a little cleanup to do.

Then a hell of a heating and cold tap water and patience to copy the most of original shapes. I don't copy it fully, I have some things I like to have and others to remove. The worst part to mold is the cup like shape on the roght in picture. That needed some gas torch to melt the plastic a little and then press the curls in together to be a thick solid portion. It doesn't affect the useability here as long as the outside is smooth. The padding can be easily cut if any such problem should arise.

When the outer cover is dryed I'll re-check the shape and after that mark and drill the holes to get them spot on. 

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Here we go back to something that reminds me of a catcher glove.

This constuction is sort of "classic" of whats inside of a catcher.

Green is gel foam I think, white felt, black next to finger stalls is thin and soft but thick foam.

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Then flip the felt/plastic layer and we see that black foam again on plastic. Position here is a bit odd as it does very little in protection when it is on plastic and not under. Adding to the padding amount is 5mm thick LD(?) foam built inside the fabric. LD is just a quess as I didn't open that pocket to see whats in there.

If I remember right the wave form on the plastic plate is Canada spec, those offshore units had a plain plate here. I don't recall about the gel foam, but I'll recheck that later.

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Then the thumb side, there I had to do a lot of new holes, to the plastic ofcourse but also to the felt and LD foams. Again it's the details that add up to an excellent result.

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What I've wondered about in almost all gloves I've worked on is that in here under palm there is a pile padding that seems like "they just are there". Every other part is of spesific shape and position, these are just thrown in. But with small cuts and shaping it'll feel quite good.

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