Jump to content

Brian's Gnetik IV refurb


Recommended Posts

So new project story incoming. This time I had a Gnetik IV which was pretty much done atleast from sellers viewpoint. Paid 30 euros which is not much but, well. Yeah.

Not much that I can describe in words, but you'll get the idea from these pictures. Dirty all over, lots of puck marks too but dirty.


From this side it looks used but not actually that bad...


T looks worn and the skatelaced perimeter goes for a short time but will wear quickly if rubbed against ice.


Finger protection off revels that the T is pretty bad and the skatelace pocket isn't the best art work there is. Working though so no pucks go through.


Did I mention about washing your hands to push this sight further to the future. It'll happen no matter what though but I'd say a good soaking wash and some toothbrush rubbing in the summer break could renew this kind of glove without having to dismantle the glove totally. The stench! 🤢 And saying this after the glove has dried and aired in the storage for 6 months...

Boas are worn but still working properly. 


I had the original weight of this glove some where in the database and it was 1045g.

Perimeter size is pleasantly close to the 114cm so there won't be a need to extend the T. And no chance to do it to enlargen the pocket either...


Edited by ArdeFIN
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Findings from the inside. Both plastics have cracked, finger plastic only on one spot and the thumb side is toasted.


Thumb side plastic doesn't go all the way up to the cuff, but only ends half way and inside the foam plate. The bent edge is a weak spot and has been cut all the way. This same thing happens in all the gloves made with this style. But that is basically unavoidable and the plastics will break no matter what.


Finger side was cut from the edge through some needle holes, weak spot here too and I don't really think that they need the felt to be sewn to the plastic here on the outer edge. None of the other manufacturers do.


The T was looking bad but that was more of the lace work that was done to fix the pocket. Sure the spines were broken at the attaching holes but that a common thing and pretty easy fix. Even without dismantling the whole glove if you ever get into a situation like this. I did have a picture of before, but it wasn't good enough quality to show you anything. Cracked ends were cut with different lengths on top and bottom to interlace the seams. Right side was worse and the top had to be cut one hole longer.


T had a skate(?) cut on the edge which had been repaired by some non-hockeygear and hadn't held up.

The inside piece was also damaged so much that I decided to replace it with a new material. Simple job to do and doesn't consume a lot of jenpro either as the piece is straight edged. I also bent the outer material in so that the existing needle holes were hidden inside and sewed everything back together.


  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Always fun reading these. All things considered, this glove looks like it got used hard for at least three years.

2 hours ago, ThatCarGuy said:

The best glove ever made imo. Absolutely wild how well it works no matter what shape it’s in

It's a wonderful glove, loved mine, and the GNetikV is basically no different in any negative way (has carbon in the cuff, I suspect it might help alleviate the plastic cracking seen here). Only thing I can say I don't like about the GNetik gloves is the back-hand doesn't open super far for airing out/cleaning, but oh well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As the glove was ready short time ago I took to a real world test yesterday. I did catch the pucks very well, mostly into pocket and only few my palm area. It's super soft and easy to use opens out and closes well as it should right after a full refurb.

But the biggest issue for me is the strapping on the back hand. I just could not make it work with my hand. Too tight my hand couldn't operate the glove and any combination of settings down from that my hand just moved in or out while catching pucks. Also the wrist strap is way too far out from the glove. It touches my C/A sleeve and if loosened completely doesn't hold my hand in the glove which is obvious though. Side note for this I removed the wrist strap from my Total One Bauer as it had the same issue and now that glove is a dream.

It might work a lot better if I moved the anchor point on the pinky side towards my wrist and removed the wrist strap. But with the glove in so good shape and not really looking to keep this one as it's not the best of the bunch for me I'll propably sell it to someone who likes it as it is.

Then back to the story.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

The palm was surpricingly good with no holes and even the lace had held well. Only the pocket edge had worn through from puck hitting it.

Some jenpro pieces and a bit of color matching and playing.


The main reason for three pieces is that I didn't have single large piece and also the seams between each piece help just that much with the break area flexing.

Quite a lot of seams fixed in the same run. Should be good for a long time now.


I took some bits of felt away as there was a lot of excess. Interesting that the designers don't cut these out in the design process as this is sort of waste.


The binding is worn too but I made it a bit cheap, cut it off, turn upsidedown and sewed back in. Can't tell from the looks and on the outside so it does the job.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Then some break wondering, what the heck? The ruler is set to the line where the outer palm layer had holes on the break line. The felt is set over that so that the holes for the lace on finger side match. The longer "softening" holes aside with the lace holes are a lot off from where they should be now...


Then the thumb side plastic set as it should be on when laced in. The break area looks weird, there is a lot of uncovered area at the index knuckle which is a spot where I don't like to get pucks if not properly protected.


One last for the break where there is a plastic strip. That is located just where I would assume the glove to bend and close. And it's also somewhat curved and as said already multiple times no hinge will operate smooth if not in straight line. Will be fixed...


Then some butthead once again took pictures where you see nothing so I replaced the plastic strip with a bit wider 2mm PE and moved it to center of the lace line. I also replaced the fingerside plastic as well as the thumb side and modified both so that the break area edges are in line to each other and have less than 10mm gap between which has given me good results with closure. Nothing really new that I hadn't done before but sorry no pictures to show here.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A small cut from the fingerside right at the T there was almost 15mm of extra which I just cut away and cleaned out the binding. I also had to remove one hole and re-align the rest to get the perimeter lace properly through. Funny detail that Brian's added a Primo sheet here as this isn't a place where normally is a lot of abrasion.

Feels a lot different compared to the basic jenpro, I'd assume the top layer is somewhat different material.


Then we are in the first setup round. I had to make a few small mods while getting it together like adding some foam with adhesive to the cuff-thumb area to smooth the edges. The original plastic was so difficult to make that took the easy route there. It might still be better and longer lasting now as there is no bends that are always weaker than flat plate. 


And after a series of resetting and adding or cutting bits and pieces it's done. Pocket and backhand protections still remain to be done. Looks like it got the big pocket back which wasn't there when I started. And no changes done to the T so this is about as it was when new.



  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing much to add to this story. It went a bit off with so many pictures being mushy and dark but hopefully you got some idea of what is inside a Gnetik IV.

I still am confused about the Brian's desings as all of the gloves I've already refurbished there has been a lot of problems from the design and engineering. And still at the same time they have made some really excellent gloves. How good they would be if they just did a bit of redesing in the structure of their gloves....

The pocket was made with 274cm waxed skate lace and mid lane is 4mm thick basic lace without wax. I'm not really a fan of skate lace but the white with a bit of black goes into the glove theme nicely.

The weight before doing anything (but not from factory condition on the glove) was 1045g. After repairs listed the result is 1018g.



The Eyes!


It's so soft that it was a bit of a struggle to set for this picture.


Edited by ArdeFIN
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, ThatCarGuy said:

Didn’t realize the tee edges were laced wrong by the previous owner. That makes a huge difference in the shape

Yes they were on both ends, though the finger side had big effect on this. I'm not 100% that I made it like the original was, as said I had to get rid of one hole on the top side on the finger sides edge to get them even. That tells something has happened but I wasn't able to tell what. Now it works so I really don't have an issue with that.

Funny it is as you would think that when it has been built and all the holes for laces have matched then how can they suddenly be missing by one hole.

Found out that I should've replaced the velcro for the backhand cover that is on the thumb protector. It's not basically holding anymore and the damn spot requires a lot of dismantling to get into...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...