ser33

I'll be moving on to it very soon.

next took up the cuff her lining was 37.5 material and completely destroyed in places they already tried to repair it by sewing on a patch made of genuine leather deleted it The cuff consisted of two parts, the special cutting of which gave it the desired shape. divided the lining itself was foam-based fortunately I had a similar material with a foam base first sewed a small part then he replaced the lining on the large part at the same time sewing a small one to it twisted, inserted the protection inside and sewed the binding to be...

as I said earlier, absolutely all the components of the blocker are damaged. my work moves from simple to complex and the closer to the final, the more effort and time yesterday I spent a few hours and took up the biggest detail - the skin her damage was in the form of "crumbled" nylon lining. when the cut edge of the fabric is not treated with anything, it begins to "crumble" under load. individual threads of the fabric are torn and stretched. the skin had such problems on the corners of the side panel trim if on the glove I just shifted the seam and made the part a little smaller then this method did not fit here to make them look nice and inconspicuous, I used the "magic tape". I don't know how to properly call it. This is a polymer mesh on a paper basis. by means of thermal transfer (with an iron), it is melted and glued to the fabric and reinforces its edge, preventing "scattering". it can also be glued to other fabric so i did I sewed everything, cut off the excess and turned it out the same problem was with the side part, where the holes for lacing are located applied and glued with an iron tape turned up the edge and stitched as close to the holes as possible then I thought a little and decided to further strengthen this place by binding

the protector of the other fingers was updated in the same way - replaced the binding, connected the top and side protection, moved the elastic band to the fingers and left it alone Poron has not yet been found. search continues...

it seems to me that this is an offset from an incorrect assembly with mismatched holes It also seems to me that such a position of fastening the wrist will interfere with you and possibly rub your hand - there is really little room for the thumb. but we won't know until you try the finished glove. i hope i'm wrong I understand correctly that you completely removed the elastic from this valve? From my own experience, I want to warn you about one nuance. when putting on a glove, this valve, when it is too loose, clings to the chest sleeve and falls into the cuff. if you only put on a glove before ice, then this will not be a problem. and if, as I do during the ice time, you take off and put on, then this problem can arise at the most inopportune moment

Bauer reads our threads and so added more CURV to your glove lol. I have not told anyone yet - you will be the first, but on my 1C blocker, the board is also wrapped with CURV on both sides. I SUGGEST that this is done for greater rigidity. she's really, really tough. but it's a blocker, I have no idea why to use a strengthening effect for the glove I have a lot to say after your update, but due to lack of language skills, while I jump from the topic page to the translator tab, the text is lost. so there are several posts. Sorry

looks like you and I are both trolling Bauer about CURV lol

absolutely agree with you. inserting the plastic into place, I saw exactly this - it is too large for its "pocket" and its edges tear the lining. I trimmed it a bit to avoid repeating the problem. but in any case, I appreciate your feedback and advice. I always listen to them. It's nice that we think alike and "speak the same language". thank you!

I think I understand you. I agree, it also seems to me that the break under the knee goes back to the old design of the pad, which was supposed to tightly "hug" the knee a break directly in the bend of the knee IMO is not quite "in place" and will interfere with the bent knee (don't forget about the massive knee guards) in the butterfly I understand your pad idea, but visualizing it mentally, I don't "see" it. with a straight knee part, with one line of the lower leg, the knee block will not stand at the right angle to the pad and you will land past it I have an idea why they abandoned the bend above the knee, although it allows you to better close the 5th hole. because when the puck hits the instep of the thigh, with this form of pad, the rebound will be 99% in front of the goal, which 100% will lead to a finishing attempt. with the current shape of the pads with one bend under the knee, the rebound almost always goes to the side but I can definitely say that your thoughts are definitely very logical. why are they not implemented? it's hard for me to answer. we remember absolutely straight pads-boards. they didn't settle down. pads with solid knee block/shin guard. didn't spread either. I believe that the development of pads, precisely in form, is very evolutionary, without abrupt new ideas that change the entire industry. as opposed to materials. I think the point here is the conservatism of both the producers themselves and the goalkeepers, especially those participating in the Show

Next, I took up the protectors of the fingers. nothing particularly critical - shabby binding, stretched elastic bands I would like to pay attention to the design of the protectors. I have not seen such a solution before - the top and side protectors are separated from each other most manufacturers have these parts in one piece I don’t know what motivated Bauer’s decision, I didn’t have a single Bauer blocker before and I don’t know how convenient or not convenient it is to use I was also surprised by the location of the elastic bands - at the top of the protectors started with the index finger the side part is torn and there is no protective foam in it on the top of the nylon lining also began to diverge nylon has been replaced. in the process of sewing, a piece of jenpro was inserted, later I will show why the nylon on the side was also replaced, and in the process of sewing the other end of the jenpro, together with the top, was sewn into the side cut off the excess and twisted yes, so I got a "solid" protector cut out a piece of HD foam to insert inside sewed the top piece in place. together with him sewed an elastic band to a new place sewed a new binding at the same time fastening all the parts and received an updated thumb protector of a more familiar design for me now for some fun the patch on the tread seems to hint ... however, here's what's inside not very similar to Poron where is Poron? probably it was all spent on the glove. laughs I wonder if I will find CURV?

after a few ices with my 1S I can confirm "yes it does". on my cuff the elastic bands are in place but they are completely stretched to the state of lack of any elasticity. and this allows the flap, and therefore your gloved hand, to flex up to 90 degrees completely freely, maximizing your range of motion. note. in my case, the wrist fastening system was also changed, which in itself increased mobility. with a stock wrist attachment system, a smaller range of movement is possible

found some time to do the blocker. as I said earlier, the blocker has a lot of small and not very damage on every detail I thought for a long time where to start and decided to start with protecting the thumb there were numerous abrasions of the binding, which they already tried to repair torn "marketing" mesh on the cuff why do I call her that? because it does not carry any functionality, namely, participation in ventilation under it is a protective "pyramid" foam glued to a soft polyethylene foam, which is absolutely moisture and air tight and completes this sandwich with a nylon fabric also impermeable to air and moisture thus, no ventilation occurs in principle and the mesh is simply not needed there the old grid was carefully removed and replaced with a new one the part covering the thumb had a tear in the lower part, which was repaired with a genuine leather patch, which was also torn in the same place removed the patch I don’t know what is the reason for the repeated tear in the same place - a zone of increased wear or the wrong choice of material so, just in case, I made a new patch in this place from a larger piece of jenpro, leaving a protruding edge replaced the binding on the entire element then I tucked the "extra" part of jenpro and sewed along the edge, forming a new binding in this place, which has increased friction on the stick on the back side After sewing, I inserted the plastic protection inside. finished with this part. to be continued...

after the above I replaced the velcro on the zipper and had a few ices after that. however, the problem was not only Velcro I did not take into account what I myself said earlier - a hard strap must be worn a little relaxed. this not only affects the rotation but also allows the pad to “break away” from the foot in some playing situations having spent many years with elastic straps, I got used to a tighter binding of the pad so I and a new strapping system with hard straps, I still fastened them very tight it was a mistake the elastic part of the CRS on the shin gave the necessary little stretch but did not give it for the knee part, as I hoped because the buckle on the zipper completely limited the mobility of the strap through it tightly fixing it it was necessary to add elasticity to the knee part of the strap without changing the very concept of a hard strap the idea of "dosed" adding elasticity is not new and is used on the same bootstraps where a small piece of elastic is added to a hard strap I sewed a piece of double elastic to the knee end of the nylon strap and the other end of the elastic to the knee block after that I assembled the whole system the addition of elastic gave the necessary, precisely limited mobility, while retaining all the advantages of a hard strap

I generally agree with Chenner29 but it seems to me that ArdeFIN was talking about something else. maybe it's "lost in translation" so please forgive me, but here's what I'm thinking: "break" and "curve" are still different things. using the core of my 1S pads as an example. it's "break" it allows the pad to flex in that spot after I glued it, it turned into a "curve" - a place for changing the shape of the pad. the pad lost the ability to bend in this place, but got a clear Z-shape therefore, I don't see anything wrong with having a "curve" above the knee to give the pad an "S" shape to better cover the 5th hole. but! only if it's done by "curve" and not "break", i.e., keeping the pad stiff and not bending. otherwise, what Chenner29 said will happen. here is the beautiful S-shape of the Premiere. as you can see in the photo, it is achieved by the presence of "breaks" on the hardest external HD foam, which will inevitably lead to flexing on a strong impact IMO, the same thing (with a combination of other conditions) happened in the case of Lenner Optiks are designed to have a "break" above the knee (we are talking about Optik 1). at the same time, a one-piece, non-breaking part of the outer HD foam in this place is very thin and cannot provide sufficient bending strength knowing these subtleties of design, for example, I could make S-shaped pads, devoid of a break above the knee and not have the problem of too soft this part, which would prevent the situation with Lenner

yes, it is really sewn in exactly the right place for those holes. you are absolutely correct. It also seemed to me that this attachment point is not very convenient, but I did not redo it

O yes! I've been looking forward to this thread! sure it will be interesting if it doesn't bother you, take more photos - the differences between the two iterations are interesting. thanks

finding himself a new toy and switching to recovering Bauer gloves I completely forgot (pulled into the background) the Bauer pads in the meantime, he has already played two ices in them Most importantly, I finally did something right! (laughs) - the last mod with the addition of foam to the leg channel completely justified itself - the "creeping" effect is completely gone! it's still two boards tied to the legs, but how do those boards work now! I'm starting to like these pads more and more and more 2X! the new strapping system also works (surprisingly). slipping of the knee off the knee block is now a thing of the past. the feeling of a tight pad following the foot has increased without compromising comfort (I don't like pads that are too tight) it remains to solve two small nuances that have appeared and I think (hope) work on these pads will be completely finished 1) The notched adjustment buckle on one pad does not work well - the nylon strap loosens during play I plan to solve this very simply - choose a comfortable length of the strap and simply sew it to the CRS flap and adjust it by moving the Velcro on the shin wing 2) the mentioned Velcro, which I made from a part of the Brians Velcro for the knee guards - it's funny, but the Brians Velcro is not "friendly" with the Bauer Velcro!))) Poor engagement, with sudden movements of the leg, the Velcro slides along the wing of the lower leg, loosening the strap I will try to solve this issue by sewing on the "native" Velcro Bauer, which I have from the knee block

Last Friday was the first ice with a new glove. it was very exciting 1) the break and position of the palm in the glove was very different from Reebok which at first, before being used on the ice, caused concern. 2) weight. noticeably heavier than Reebok, which also caused concern 3) the position of the pocket at the previously familiar position of the hand also differed from Reebok. in the end, the impressions of the new glove can be described in one word - wow! 1) did not interfere at all and did not even feel any difference 2) did not feel more weight at all 3) did not interfere at all with catching the puck in the process, the glove warmed up from the warmth of the hand and became wet with sweat and became even softer, the closure is fantastic! adding foam to the palm was not in vain - got one shot to the top of the break and felt nothing! the shape of the glove (the shape of a large plate) turned out to be very convenient and when the puck hits anywhere, the puck goes into the pocket as we say, the glove catches itself! the pocket itself turned out to be very deep and soft - I sometimes looked, but is there a puck in the pocket? I looked into it like into a black hole))) and the puck lay at its very bottom Well, Bauer managed to pleasantly surprise me again and I never regret switching to this glove. this is only the fourth glove in my entire hockey life that I have repaired. and the first in which the renovation was so global. the fact that the first time I managed to do everything right and not ruin the glove is of great importance to me and brings great moral satisfaction let's see what the impressions of the blocker will be after its restoration

I own the same glove and after two years of use it still closes horribly

took apart the glove again and began to eliminate small nuances marked the area where the fingers end and removed the "excess" foam in these places, the foam has no function other than thickening the protection of the palm, which causes excessive tension on the inside of the glove and negatively affects the closure smoothed the transition from a double layer of foam to a single layer marked and cut off the "extra" thickness of polystyrene in the area of the thumb marked and cut off the part of the large plate that goes beyond the break line cut a piece from the remaining "unnecessary" part of the wrist attachment put foam in it and sewed the resulting pad to the end of the lower part of the cuff this is how it looks on the assembled glove Now I will try to explain what it is and why? the fact is that anatomically, my thumb cannot bend at an angle of 90 degrees to the line of the palm-forefinger. This position is painful and uncomfortable for me. that's why I liked my old V3 glove so much, it had the thumb at a sharper comfortable angle many modern gloves, including the 1S, are designed around a 90 degree thumb position (picture below) while the position that is convenient for me is in the photo below on the Reebok XL24 glove, I had the same problem, but there is a pocket for the thumb plastic that is larger than the plastic itself, which allows you to move the plastic a little by changing the angle of the thumb, which I did also on that glove i used this mod for the first time with a pad at the base of the palm and it worked great for me the essence of this pad is that it slightly "pulls" the base of the palm away from the glove, allowing the thumb to take a more comfortable position then fully assembled the glove in the order described above using ArdeFIN's advice from his topics, I made the knots at the ends of the lacing as close as possible to the thumb on one side and away from the break line on the other this gives a slight surplus of material to the inside of the glove, aiding in a better closure after which the last stage remained - lacing the pocket from the previous post you can understand that for this I used a skate lace I used it on XL24 and was satisfied also on this glove I tried lacing with a "floating" pocket and was also satisfied since this is not my first lacing, I managed quite quickly for those who are not so experienced or doing it for the first time I highly recommend the thread I always use the same weaving technique, which I consider the easiest and fastest (because I don’t know how to do it differently, laughs) first, the lace is threaded into the holes of the T-pillars forming loops the next rows of lace are threaded through these loops forming new ones and so on until the end of the pocket Finishing the lacing of the pocket, we need to give it the correct rounded shape. for this I use the "on the knee" method, which could be called the "ser33 method" but I'm sure I'm not the only one using it. laughs. its essence lies in the fact that the pocket is put on a bent knee in the literal sense of the word and the "extra" length of the lace is pulled where necessary, giving the pocket the desired shape when the pocket is formed, I turn to tightening and tying the laces in its lower part. for this glove I used the following scheme I crossed the ends of the laces and threaded them into the corresponding loops then threaded them up fastened on the leg T tied and cut off the excess Well, here is the result of a week of work closing and full opening with one hand of the assembled glove final weighing more than the original 980 grams, but now we have a glove with a reinforced palm and a thicker and stronger large plate I haven't put it on the ice yet, so I can only speak about my impressions on the hand. there is a tight fit, no slackness, the glove does not dangle on the hand and feels like an extension of it. and heavy after XL24. but I'll get used to the weight

this is going to be a big post with lots of pictures, so excuse me) The day before yesterday and yesterday, preliminary assemblies were carried out. Build #1 was done without putting the outer foam on the big plate and adding foam to the palm of the thumb. it was her result that showed the need for these additions but just before starting the assembly, I had to work a little on the lower part of the cuff (I don’t know how to call it correctly) since it is tied with a cord to the glove. this item had a very worn velcro that was replaced with a new one I also added a piece of foam 4mm inside After the first pre-assembly, I found that I did not like the wrist attachment system at all neither by its design, nor by the state of the strap crumpled at the attachment point on the Reebok XL24 with the same mount, I abandoned it by making my changes here I completely removed the valve with the strap cut off one of the paired loops, one of which serves to attach the backhand and the other to the palm strap in order to sew the loop below, in place of the old strap, I had to sew up a slot in the place where the wrist strap had previously passed through the entire glove I sewed on a piece of nylon strap and cross-stitched the incision and sewed a loop on the reinforced place the palm strap now fastens lower on the glove to secure the wrist and allow for greater range of motion then I will talk about the assembly steps by combining the first and second pictures the glove is assembled in a classic way - a lace connecting all its parts. since different laces connect different parts of the glove, correct assembly sequence is important you need to start from the cuff gradually moving towards the fingertip laced cuff further, external lacing on the side of the thumb bring to a fold and leave the next lace ties the palm guard, all parts of the glove and the bottom of the cuff and runs through the middle of the glove bringing the cord to the bottom of the glove, break again at the fold cord and continue to your fingertips lace up the backhand then lace up the outer lace of the palm from top to bottom collected glove both builds showed that there was excess material in different parts which were marked and removed of course, before the end of the outer lacing, it is necessary to lace up the ends of the T pocket I will dwell on it in more detail since the glove had a perimeter of 110 cm I had "legitimate" 3-4 cm on T pocket increase new holes with 1.5 cm offset on each side were marked and punched a few words about closure after purchase, the glove could not close completely with one hand Thanks to ArdeFIN, I know there are several reasons for poor closing. poor assembly with misaligned holes, excess material and T pocket at the first assembly, I did not lace up the T pocket as seen in the pictures above, one hand closure is good and with a laced T pocket is much worse it means it's in it. since the T pocket was in good condition and did not require repair, I cut a little seam at its ends its construction was very traditional - several layers of jenpro, a thick piece of artificial leather and plastic, reaching to the very edge at the same time, the plastic on the side of the thumb cracked along the mounting holes the plastic on the side of the palm was intact I cut off both the broken piece and the whole to the holes the remaining layers of jenpro and thick leather will provide sufficient strength, and the absence of plastic will not interfere with the closure I weighed the glove which showed 1050 grams. more than the original weight, but within the weight of other similar gloves plan for the next day: finish the places with excess material, fully assemble the glove and

I also tried to improve by increasing the angle of the bend in order to better guide the puck into the pocket, focusing on the shape of the plate of this glove in your topics, I found for myself a lot of small useful nuances that few people know about and will use them in my work, so I will often refer to your experience and mention your nickname) IMO, unlike the 1S pads, the design of which as a whole was very revolutionary, Bauer gloves from generation to generation follow an evolutionary path of development, receiving subtle changes and new materials perhaps due to the initially successful design, unlike, for example, Lefevre's gloves Supreme One series Supreme TotalOne series Supreme TotalOne NXG Series

1S glove 980g 1S blocker 885g Reebok Premier XL24 905g

if still relevant, then I see a problem in closing which is caused by the T pocket. The plastic in its parts does not bend and does not allow the glove to close completely my glove 1S with T pocket and without it

there were two stripes on the glove indicating that modern high-tech materials were used in it and if there were no questions about the presence of PORON, it is sewn between layers of nylon on the inner palm of the glove and is visible through the holes on it then CURV had to look. there are only three plastic elements in the glove - large and small plates and thumb protection. and they were all white and made of ordinary plastic. where is CURV? on the outside of the small plate, sewn to protect the palm, there was a piece of foam sewn along the edge to the foam on the back of the plate the small plate was strongly bent and tore this seam when I separated this piece of foam, I saw CURV sewn to the foam there and, judging by the remains of glue on it, it was all once glued to a small plate a fun way to reinforce the edge of the plate, preventing it from twisting most importantly, it doesn't work at all and here the main question is, it seems that they didn’t deceive, CURVE is really present in the glove. but here's its functionality... it just doesn't work as it should in comparison, Vaughn's carbon composite serves the same purpose. feel the difference I don’t have information about what level of protection on my glove, but judging by what I saw turning my palm over, this is the easiest Game Ready the palm consisted of approximately 4-5mm foam and 1mm imitation felt compared to the palm of ArdeFINs with his 1X glove something tells me that even for me this protection will be insufficient. I play with different levels of players, including juniors and additional protection definitely does not hurt so as not to disassemble the glove later, when after the ice it turns out that the protection is not enough, I immediately glued 4mm LD foam to the back of the hand, taking into account the break line made holes trying on, added another 4mm layer to the thumb area and straightened the plate giving it the desired shape. also soldered small cracks on it now everything is ready for pre-assembly