Vaughn V6 2000 & 2200 PRO

[ArdeFIN]

These gloves go into the same topic as one is the two piece cuff and the other is surprsingly the one piece cuff.

Both are heavily used but still in rather good condition and the jenpros and sewing need only some repairs and nothing major.

The plastics propably are already breaking and might need new ones. But can't really tell from outside of the gloves.

There are some similarities with these gloves but also some unexpected differences, nothing really remarkable but still.

As for background I have a V6 1100 already in my collection and can do some comparison between these to see how the overseas production is and what are the key savings made here materialvise.

2200 Pro is the first and two pictures of the beginning state tell you a lot.

Looking at the break line you can tell from the picture that the closure of the glove is terrible. The outside looks like it's been laying in a storage floor for some time, I believe the nylon fabric should be white... I'll try some Oxy clean in collaboration of the winegar to see if I can brighten things up atleast a little.

[seagoal]

Aw man I have such a sweet spot in my heart for the 2200 pro.  It was my first one piece cuff glove and my first away from the T5500.  I had 2 different ones and loved them both. 

[ArdeFIN]

Some pictures from dismantling the 2200.

Didn't know that Vaughn had this carbon thing already on V6 series. Here the normally curling edge of the glove is reinforced with 2mm plastic and it's held pretty well.

Foam over and under the edge, and atleast it's lighter than felt. Would make a better protection if felt was dropped to half of a thickness and replaced with some foam.

The edge of the carbon board is quite fractured, see what I can do for it. Should be heated up to melting point and pressed back together. Atleast I assume it's normal plastic of some sort infused to the carbon sheets.

Basic findings on Vaughn of this era. The thumb area felt is not installed very well and is getting layered which affects the break area operation. Easy to fix and improve though.

Some plastic pushing in to the break area too and only lacing holding it back but not too well done here either. Designer problems but seemingly not too easy to make these things work properly.

[ArdeFIN]

Always interesting design is this break line. Who in this world would design a knot under the index knuckle? The worst spot to get the puck any ways and with that knot making a spike through padding. Ouch.

Carbon is used to protect the thumb also. Atleast it's light weight. This part has been taking some action on the pocket edge (lower on the picture. Needs some smoothing.

 

[ArdeFIN]

Note. Here the glove changed to V6 2000 and the 2200 project is continued after this sidewalk. Sorry.

Some basic work done with the outter palm fabric, fixed the area around where T is attached and added some new binding while there. The old was so worn.

Inside those stiched lines there is 1mm thin carbon sheets. I have no idea what those give to the glove except weight but there they are hidden. Would be somewhat reasonable if the next layer inwards was padding but it isn't, there is the finger plate and after that there is felt.

One last photo on the backhand fabric, that is in good condition and only two brass eyelets have popped. Have to renew them just for the looks, and the nylon there will last better that way too.

Next thing is to look towards the T and then the plastics errr. the carbon at finger area is ok but the thumb plastic might need some attention.

Edited May 10, 2021 by ArdeFIN

[ArdeFIN]

Then to the T, which has the usual damages. This is where it begins.

The end of the spine is pretty bad looking, but still good enough to be refurbished with reasonable effort. (focus missed on picture)

Cracked Jenpro at the bend point on the finger side. Actually the jenpro was cracked almost the whole length in the picture. I was about to just replace this end part but after seeing the lip being damaged it was no use to repair just that short bit of it. So dismantle the thing and make a new one. 

[ArdeFIN]

Here we go, new sheet of jenpro is cut and ready to start the building. I don't recall seeing double support "leather" before. Usually there is only one layer and it has been well enough. But I thought that it's been made like that and I'll leave it be.

Jenpro sewn in. Easy part of the project done 

Then there is the hard part of it. Sew the jenpros another long edge to the T and then add in those extra supports. 

I found it really tight to bend the whole package and it would need some break-in. So I took the 3mm punch and made some holes to add some give to the areas that should bend easily aka. break line in the middle and the bend point at the finger side. Thumb side was already very soft and thin so I left it as is.

It appeared that the support layers are infused with something that makes it very stiff material to sew. I broke two needles and after some more struggle I removed the white layer with knife from the hole line. And after that I was able to use the sewing machine with the hand wheel to make the sew. The next thing I checked with the 2200 gloves T to see if I have to through this same operation but luckily it's ok'ish I shouldn't.

But I got it done and the result is very decent. No picture of it yet, sorry.

 

[ArdeFIN]

Time for some finger plastic and carbon. I've only had old gloves where I've seen this Vaughns carbon thing so I don't know how it is as new. But when old and used it always seems to start break into separate layers and loose the rigidity. The material is actually super thin carbon sheets infused with some plastic to make it like normal carbon sheet is except that due to plastic it is a lot more flexible. And not using the resin it isn't breaking the same way.

In cathcers I've seen (4 or 5 total) the edge is always layering out. On the positive side the normal curling there is on Vaughn catchers isn't happening.

In these V6 gloves there is added 2,5mm (1/8" maybe?) layer of plastic to reinforce the edge. It has done a pretty good job but it's time to put a new piece on there. (Threads already cut before I remembered to take a photo of it)

(Sidenote, on SLR catcher this added plastic had been upgraded to same carbon material and it was a mess.)

I didn't have any good picture of the layering out of the material but something had to be done to the carbon also. So earlier I've burned some edges of the carbon sheet to clean them up and noticed the plastic like reaction to heat and flame. So the plastic could be melted at 250-300 degrees celsius and while it isn't really good for the plastic it should renew the sheet atleast a little. So let's try it out.

Small gas torch and carefully heating up the edge from a small area on both sides for as long as the plastics seems to start melting. Just a little more heat and then flat headed pliers and carefully pressing the material straight and together. Cool down and yes! It really does go together again.

Not really nice looking but edge is solid and pretty rigid also. And it was pretty badly bent outwards which is also repaired.

I'm not trying to make it perfect in any means as there is going to be the plastic edge on top. On pictures you can notice the old factory sewing has gone throug hthe carbon which has more like cracked. Also the die cut holes have same cracking on the edges. Durable and lightweight material that still needs some improving to be a solid performer here. And the weight savings are a bit lost with using basic plastic on the thumb plate.

One photo of the plastic reinforcement forming out of 3mm thick sheet and the carbon edge pretty much ready to go.

[ArdeFIN]

Not a huge improvement today but just a little forward. Used a die cut at work and made some holes to the reinforce plate. Then a little heat to mold to fit the carbon.

Then some clamps and 1,5mm drill bit and a lot of holes for sewing the parts together.

Used a 4mm drill bit to clean the holes just for doing it and then hand sewing with doubled 40 size thread.

There is a minimal slack between as there is no way to tighten the thread as the sewing machine does. But then again it might be good thing for durability of the sewing as little impacts won't tear the thread right away.

The backside behind the carbon isn't that smooth but hopefully there will not be any trouble. I didn't want to use the torch here to smooth things up.

Edited May 10, 2021 by ArdeFIN

[ser33]

using carbon on top of regular plastic looks very strange and suggests a purely marketing component of this mod, since all the benefits of carbon are lost with this design. unlike the same CURV from Bauer, which is a complete composite without the use of cheap plastic and works accordingly

[ArdeFIN]

On 3/30/2021 at 10:09 AM, ser33 said:

using carbon on top of regular plastic looks very strange and suggests a purely marketing component of this mod, since all the benefits of carbon are lost with this design. unlike the same CURV from Bauer, which is a complete composite without the use of cheap plastic and works accordingly

The carbon sheet itself is mostly carbon on Vaughn. Only it's not hardened and solidified by resin but plastic to keep some elasticity. Actually it might be something else than plastic like PE. But it behaves like plastic, melts with same amount of heat as PE etc. If that was what you were referring to.

I'll see if I have a good spot to take a picture of the structure. What I've written down is what I see. I haven't read or found any absolute fact on this material Vaughn is using.

Edit: Got a picture of an edge from the 220 gloves thumb protector. Can't actually tell how many layers there are but quite a lot.

Edited April 4, 2021 by ArdeFIN

[ArdeFIN]

Had a lot of fight with this 2000 glove to make it work. Well I can't tell if it is now but that is being revealed pretty soon as I get the glove together again.

First a picture of the cuff where I added a layer of 8mm LD foam to fill up the empty space the HD foam has left as it's been compressed during time.

Then one picture of the new plastic. I shaped it out from the palm jenpro so it should fit in pretty well. The shape is a lot different than the original plastic was.

I had some trouble with the palm padding and finger plate. The plate was sewn in a bit off and that caused it to being skewed and miss the break line partially.

Fixing this would require me to take of the plate and reset it which I wasn't really up to now since the glove was pretty good before.

So I just cut out the extra felt on the edge to give some room there. In midlane you may notice the black circles which mark where the holes next to them should be if the padding is aligned to other parts by the finger plate holes.

Well actually the mid plastic was really just thrown in and that's it. The holes on the plastic should be on a straigth line to fit the jenpro sheet holes.

And if the holes where matched and used like it is the lining would be as follows.

This is about the same amount that the finger plate is skewed too. While I'm not going to fix the finger plate I made a new plastic for the midlane with tapered ends and a narrower overall size so that it fits in the channel sewn on the felt. (didn't manage any decent picture on this one)

Narrower plastic here with an improved alignment should help the break to work smoothly. I'm still trying to figure out how could I move the knots of the mid lacing away from my palm area. The pocket end is easy though but the other end might need a few more holes to the jenpro.

Edited May 10, 2021 by ArdeFIN

[ArdeFIN]

Didn't take a look at my pictures about how the wrist strap was before. But what I'm used to with them across the brands it's usually tightened by pulling the strap towards right hand (regular glove). With the padding and quidance for the strap I had a problem for how could it be tightened? And when I would like to open the glove to dry out the strap would prevent that too. This Vaughn design is a little awkward to say but I think it'll work good enough. And if the glove is as good as Vaughns usually are for my hand I wouldn't even need to tighten the strap but let it be on a sweet spot.

Here's how it is now and the nylon strap will be routed through those cuts on the red fabric. The black buckle is usually at where the strap comes up now.

Had some of the lacing done already too, but have to go the shop and get more lace to get the glove ready.

At this point it is working really well and the feel is very familiar to my existing V6. I'm afraid it will become quite stiff and how the break will work is a question yet.

Is that location of the boot of the T like offset compared to break? Normally it is at the break line but then again I don't know there is any reason why it couldn't be offset.

Binding on the finger side edge is awful but it will do for me and it doesn't reguire a whole lot of dismantling to get it repaired later if it needed to.

One picture of the outside while there isn't a lot to see. Closure to ice is very good to cover the puck. Does the pocket seem to be huge or is it just an optical distraction? 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2021 by ArdeFIN

[ArdeFIN]

Perimeter laced and finishing touches are near. I was a bit afraid of the glove become stiff after lacing but hell no! It is really convenient to use.

Whadda you say for the pocket, should I make it the orginal way and stuff the T spines close together:

Or go the other way and separate them over the break line?

I do like the latter more because:

1. it makes the pocket look HUGE!

2. adds a lot of lace to the pocket and especially the mid lane which then sucks the pucks in (haven't really tested this yet)

3. Swapping the finger side spine over the break line easies the closure a little and stops the spine from twisting when the glove closes.

On the con side I'd have to figure out a way to lace them spines, as normal lacing isn't going to work.

One picture from the top view.

[ArdeFIN]

Few pictures to close this case.

Went with the wider pocket, works nicely as the whole glove does. The wide pocket gives this odd feeling when puck enters and I close the glove, the puck can still move around freely as the pocket isn't stopping the movement. Closure is about perfect so there is no risk for pop-out but the feeling is odd. Had this same issue with my Simmons which also has a wide pocket from the factory.

The natural white lip jumps out to you, Vaughn white isn't available. Some completely different color like black or red would've done it sharper.

Then I'll get going with the 2200.

Edited April 9, 2021 by ArdeFIN

[ArdeFIN]

So the 2200 version is now under works, some were done earlier already but here goes the update:

First palm and finger area. Pretty much the same as with 2000 glove was. Learned some things from that and this went a lot better already.

Main plastic replaced. The original was flattened for some reason, end of the thumb part was curled possibly to open the pocket wider and also some minor cracks. Also the original ended at the wedge point of the cuff, and I extended the new plastic to cover the whole cuff area.

And the new one with somewhat different shape, I realize I'm starting to do these with my own taste and habits around. Well I'm doing these for myself atleast for the one time of testing.

Thumb carbon was given quite a lot of abuse but with some heat and pliers it got back in shape. The bottom side on the picture is towards the pocket and the edge had gotten a lot of beating from the pucks hitting the edge of the pocket.

And then the repaired shape of it. The top leayer peeled of with very little heat and I think there was some minor material problem. The surface looks like carbon but it definitely is plastic first.

Last picture is from the break line, just to notice that while this glove is made in Canada, the maker just would have to take care of their work. The pre made holes on the carbon sheet are visible on the nylon fabric but as they didn't aling properly there are new holes made. Doesn't affect noticeably here but might have some effect. The same thing was on the 2000 glove too so it's propably a desing flaw more than craftsman doing their own.

[ArdeFIN]

Then some new holes to the felt part. As there was a picture earlier in the topic, the padding was layered a bit because the fitting was somewhat off.

New holes places are marked with 'O', originally the lace was right next to the edge. Quite a lot of difference here.

Then some extra material when comparing outer and inner fabrics:

These will settle pretty nice when lacing is ready, but the extra material is still there. Not so much that I would've started to do something about these.

Last but not the least for today the body lacing is ready. If you are thinking about the order I do these, it's pretty much intuitive. Begin from the cuff, it kind of keeps things on place there. Then the thumb loop which holds parts together and on place. Longest base lace starts from the thumb side at the pocket edge and goes to the heel. Then the break lace as the layers are still open towards the fingerside. And then continue the base lace through the finger stalls. These laces should be left pretty loose at this point to make it easier to adjust the layers and fabrics to fit right when doing the perimeter.

These are the times when I get really excited about these projects. Soon it will be ready and catch some tennis ball to reveal the results.

[ArdeFIN]

Not that soon though, or to be honest it came ready like a week ago but the update here took a little longer to happen 

First one to show what's inside the cuff. From old stiching holes you can notice a slight shift to middle which didn't feel at all but I like it as is moves my wrist more behind the cuff. Flexibility works well and this mod is highly recommended for these V6 1-piece gloves. Opens up the wrist area a lot. Nylon strap replaced the original leather one.

Then some pictures just for eyecandy.

The nylon looks so grouse no matter what I tried.

Tadaa!

The heel area of the break isn't really good but othervise I like the result. Tennisball is easy to catch even with the glove being a bit stiff compared to the softest I have.

Then one family picture of the V6 2200 and far east cousin V6 1100. I couldn't get them lined up the same, 1100 was too soft hold on but only this position and then the 2200 didn't like to co-operate.

Then it might be time for the V8 chesty to be completed and the RBK pads are also being mind processed.

But also waiting are both 2000 and 2200 blockers and what else...

[ArdeFIN]

The shape and closure of the 2200 wasn't really pleasing me as said earlier. The plastic had a little memory return and also the shape wasn't right in the first place. It started to "knack" with the break area plastic when closing the glove and thus obvious there was a need for some re-thinking.

So I opened the perimeter from the thumb side and also half of the core laces to get the plastic out. Some redo with heat gun but it didn't do what I was looking for. The heel of the break was still folding over.

Then I realised the problem was the roll in of the plastic that following the black graphic element. The thumb end was working already but the heel area needed to be moved towards the cuff and after some testing I moved it almost 30mm. You can see the difference in the picture on the previous post comparing 2200 to 1100.

Now the shape was pretty good already and I'll give it a tryout on next sunday.

New comparison but the angle is not equal on gloves. The 1100 is so soft that it's really difficult to make it stay open like this.  But they do feel really similar now except the 2200 being a bit stiffer and having a thicker feeling in it.

One little fixing to say out is the strap for fingers was really long. It actually extended to the pocket and wanted to dive through the webbing after a while. You really could fit some sort of bear foot inside and still the strap would be long enough. So some 20mm shorter and the end folded over with some stiching to give a good grip if there ever will be need to open the strap.

[ArdeFIN]

V6 2200 is my glove for sure. Just felt like it was only extending my hand over and not being an extra glove pulled over my hand.

Took a few harder shots and all was nice and cool. Even one pop-out from a close range hitting the middle of the palm and no problems at all.

Next time I'll get back to the VE8 to see how that glove feels now as I've regained my touch after the 8 month Corona break and can concentrate on making saves and not just survive in the crease. 

Feeling sorry for all of you who still have to wait to get back on the ice again. 

[creasecollector]

Love threads like these. Wish I had the skill (and courage) to work on my gear like this. 

[ArdeFIN]

Blocker time for the V6 2000.

This story is pretty short as the blocker was in decent used condition and only needed little repair job on palm and good wash. And maybe something improvised to the cuff.

So a few side-by-side with the 2200 blocker to see the differences. There are actually quite a lot starting from the binding on the front face and around almost everything on the 2200. Is it that the 2000 is bindingless version and as the 2200 is with binding it is then all around the thing?

Palm view shows more differencies between.

One detail picture from the 2000. It opens up the whole side length which makes it easy to do repairs. But some parts are sewn together which prohibits the operation effectively  And what's more is that in the 2200 those same places are mostly laced in. Interesting design selections indeed. 

Double layer thumb protection (red plates) and the palm attachment is laced in which could give some possibilities.

Then the palm or actually finger repairs. A few small holes are worn and while here and I have a suregrip available I'll fix them away. Didn't have any decent picture from the beginning but the final result is like this. Here the cuff is visible also, I have to make an extension piece to make some more room to the cuff. Previous owner has had it wide open and even the wrist strap was routed weirdly to make it fit. I'll take a few more describing pictures next time. 

And in the same process I moved the pinky side protection some 15mm towards the side as there was really tight for the fingers. Don't really understand the reason for such tight fitting or was it just that the maker didn't really know how to put them together. But much better now. And final touch for this one was the tested modification of moving the elastics to different locations and split them in two to prevent the fingers from rotating sideways.

With the cuff still waiting the glove is ready to be put together. I'm looking forward to get these gloves with me on sunday for a test drive.

[ArdeFIN]

The problem with the cuff, holes for the lacing are wide off and the cuff is really tight. I really don't think any of the C/A arms will fit in there properly and still allow some wrist mobility. Maybe it was a selected design of the time but in these days everything is for mobility, and protection.

It could be done with loose lace but that leads to a too sloppy glove as the wrist strap is also somewhat failed. So I decided to add a triangle of foam covered with normal fabric, it is stiff enough to support the cuff but still gives some room for wrist to operate around.

Then the big picture, strap is now tightened to what I would use, stiff to keep my hand properly in place but still I can remove the blocker without opening the strap (yes thin hands). The strap cannot really be any tighter than that as it starts to pull the sidewall in and that then hits the arm protection of the C/A which apparently isn't good thing. Could be somewhat fixed with reinstalling the red strap to another location or just make it a bit longer.

Here's the mentioned strap from other direction and it is built in so that it takes a lot of work to move it. The thumb protections lock piece, also red, is now attached with lace so that the glove is easier to service later on and if needed there can be done a bit of adjustment too.

Last picture from top view. In the black version of this (the next post in this topic!) I realized it is the sidewall side of the cuff that is the main problem. It is made of hard PE foam that doesn't really give any flex while it is fixed to the base of the blocker it prevents half of the needed flexibility of the cuff.

A few completed set pictures coming in later on.

Edited October 31, 2021 by ArdeFIN

[ArdeFIN]

So with a next V6 2000Pro blocker being done I'm going to make some upgrades that were bugging me with the previous one. Atleast try to fix them better.

The blocker is in very good condition generally, only two minor problems. The wrist strap is broken and was repaierd a few times with glue and glue and finally some sewing. But the result isn't really looking very good and not working at all. The pinkys edge was broken too because of elastics pulling the fabric around and then the seam had worn out. What is bad is that it was "repaired" with sticktape and the glue is all over the place now.

And once again while there I did fix the elastics so that there will be less problems in the future I hope.

Note that I sewed the elastic differently than in the earlier version. Don't know why but I didn't check it and just did it how I felt it's good. Might've been better with the first way but it isn't bad either way.

Then the pillow between main plate and hand, the foams inside were flattened out and basically non-existent. Replaced them with 10mm layers of soft and medium foam. Also I took the structure apart and left the pillow free inside the "cave". It isn't going anywhere from there anyway and now it is easier to change the foams when needed.

First picture of the original foam sheets.

New pillow in place.

[ArdeFIN]

So to the "big invention" of the cuff. Cut the plate side of the cuff to a separate piece that is then installed to the base with one seam same way as it was originally.

Then add the backhand fabric over it, originally for production reasons these done the otherway around and doesn't really matter.

Then add a few holes to the sidewall side to attach the rest of the cuff with lace on that side too. Now we have the freedom and adjustability there needs to be.

The red thread is there just to hold the fabric edge doubled while sewing it on place with machine and was pulled away later on.

The hard PE foam inside the cuff was cut in two pieces to create a flat surface where the wrist strap is to be. With the edge laced in and more bending possibilities it tightens a lot better. Lacing on the original eyelets is still a lot off but after using the other 2000Pro above I think I don't need any better alignment on that side. The risk to get anything to hit that side is very minimal.

Then some lacing to get everything back together and check that everything needed was done. The thumb protector was once again laced in instead of seam for later service purposes. I added a pillow to between the sidewall parts as there had been one originally and it makes the blocker feel more snug. 

It'll make a pretty pair with the Epic 8800 catcher even with the catcher having those white accents. I have to admit that I like the gear Vaughn makes. Nothing against any other manufacturers though.