goalieThreeOne

All you need is diluted white vinegar. $3.00 for a big jug at your grocery store. $5 for a spray bottle. Everything else is just overpriced and unnecessary. But the most effective way to prevent odors is quick drying. Lots of ventilation, don't leave it in the bag. Grab a $50 wire rack from Target or wherever and a $10 box fan. I'm to the point I don't even need a spray anymore.

I'm sub-C. I use them just fine but I did go down a size from 9 to 8 (I measure 8.25 and 8.5 and was using 8.75 Bauers)

I don't have enough empty space at the house. They want you to have 10' x 10' and I just don't have that much open floor space

I don't think you should count on these for pain relief. That's what physiotherapy and anti-inflammatories are for. You should be following your doctor's advice on that, including, not aggravating the injury while it's healing by playing on it. As for support, there might be some benefits there. The theory is that the hinge will allow you to really cinch down the top without affecting the ability for your to bend the ankle to load for pushes. In this regard, it's no more or less "supportive" from the front and back, since it's designed to move with you. The benefit might be that it reduces the negative space to either side keeping your ankle square to your foot along that axis. Whether or not that's going to benefit your injury, is really something you'll have to sit and think about. In theory, it could limit the range of motion side to side, which would limit the amount your ankle will roll. However I believe high sprains are caused by "turning" the ankle while flexed which this strapping system will not limit. You could even make the argument that because you now have MORE range of motion to flex your ankle due to the hinge, it might INCREASE the risk of another sprain.

Leather (even synthetic leather or rather, vinyl in Bauer's case) needs to breathe so paint would not be a good idea. Paint also has a hard time flexing and paint is technically full of solvents so it might hurt the material. I'd rock it like it is but of those options, I like plastidip the best because you can remove and reapply easily.

I mean, haven't you been badmouthing them for months? Are you getting them because you think they'll work or because you want them not to work so you can post about it online? At the end of the day, people go online that either either really disappoints, or really excited about something. You're seeing a small cross section of goalies on here but a high number of those are complaints because that's what people do when something goes wrong. What you aren't seeing is the hundreds of guys using them every week that are fine with them and have no complaints. These skates are made for the middle 75% of feet. If you have some odd proportions it will be difficult to make these work without some adjustments. Some of the mods here are also quality of life improvements (like holding toe straps in place). In reality if they don't work for you stock, they probably aren't meant for you and you probably needed a different skate. But guys on here are excited about some of the other advantage that they're making creative adjustments to help them fit.

Bleach will be too harsh on the pads, but even then, probably won't help. The issue is the glue underneath discoloring so unless you can find something that turns adhesive white without destroying the materials it's attached to, I think you're stuck with it.

I'm going to be honest with you, with feet that wide these were never going to fit you. These are made for the middle 75% of goalie feet. Yours are substantially wider than that. I think you're very much better off with a custom skate.

Floating T in and of itself is not illegal, but it's de facto illegal. Glove manufacturers build their gloves with max pocket depth with a normal attached T, so any attempt to make it float exceeds that depth. Theoretically, I suppose you could get a glove manufacturer to make a short T and float it just enough to be in spec but that would be very odd.

I've been using Floating T's for a few years now. I send every new glove to Dennis at FactoryMAD for the absolute magic he puts on glove closure and part of that is a Floating T. The thing about a Floating T, is that it kills the puck immediately. It's not going to magically catch more pucks, but there's zero possibility that it will bounce out. The downside is that it can numb the feel of the puck in your pocket, so you might not even know if the puck is in there or not. But its biggest benefit is that it contributes to some amazing glove closure. Worth trying once if you can learn to lace it yourself.

I use Sniper Skin for my paddle and knob, cut to my own preference and using the o-ring on the paddle for little more grip security. I only use tape on the blade and it's my least favorite thing to do.

This is not usually a topic that's discussed much, because it usually doesn't make a huge difference. But, what brand of stick tape do y'all prefer? I have become fed up with Howie's hockey tape. I usually buy it in a bundle, but by the time I'm on the second or third roll it starts breaking down. Either the adhesive starts getting on everything or the last few strands of the cloth on the end don't unwind while wrapping my tape causing the tape to get narrower the more I pull off the roll. Maybe that's just a "me" problem. Anybody have any suggestions for some durable and reliable tape?

Looks like it'll have the same number of zones as the current Hyperlite: Upper inner corners, Middle/Lower Inner + Sliding surface, Lower outer and outside, plus stripes. I see two stripes here, but it's possible the goalie ordered a stripe that was color matched to the background and so they chose not to install the vinyl for it. Graphic looks better than the current HL for sure though.

To follow up on that thought even though it's not what you were asking about, you definitely want to select the Vapor version of the TuneFit Connect strap. Most everyone prefers it over the Supreme style.