ser33 Posted April 16, 2024 Posted April 16, 2024 Hi all! this is a continuation of an old topic During the last renovation it was briefly done palm partially replaced increased finger protection changed shape of blocking and side boards improved wrist mobility changed the spatial position of the glove with a downward shift it looked like this I've had these gloves for about 10 years and they amazed me with their durability. were also very comfortable After this repair, I played them for some time until the Bauer 1S appeared, which led to additional wear and tear I decided to return to them again and started a new renovation. The main thing that was my mistake was moving the glove lower on the blocking board. This was caused by the fact that when I was repairing the blocker, I used a Reebok blocker instead and I had several painful bites on my forearm, to avoid which I moved the glove to V3. which spoiled the overall balance and made playing paddle down difficult I'll have to fix this I gradually began to cut off individual parts from the blocker, starting with the finger protection. then I made them from nylon and they had noticeable wear after use I was also annoyed by the binding, I hate sewing it Having taken the protection apart, I first sewed pieces of nylon slings onto the inner parts facing the fingers I sewed a piece of Jenpro onto the outside of the index finger guard and sewed all the pieces together from the inside out and then turned them inside out to protect the other fingers I did not use a whole piece of Jenpro but a small part from the original Vaughn protection sewed and turned. it turned out like this after which he began to repair the palm at that time she already looked bad I found a local supplier for some renovation materials and purchased Nash from him. cut out the back of the hand with a double layer on the fingers into which I inserted foam from the original glove and sewed on the side part from 3D air mash material to be continued 3 Quote
mik Posted April 17, 2024 Posted April 17, 2024 To be continued? Are you kiddnig me ? Great thread and looking forvard to see finised refurb. 1 Quote
ser33 Posted April 17, 2024 Author Posted April 17, 2024 56 minutes ago, mik said: To be continued? Are you kiddnig me ? Great thread and looking forvard to see finised refurb. calm mon cher just calm. New episodes of the show are in post-production and will soon be available via paid subscription. Ahaha but seriously. I have catastrophically little free time and I actually do everything in real time. I did it yesterday and showed it today. Soon everything will be 1 Quote
ser33 Posted April 18, 2024 Author Posted April 18, 2024 Having finished with the back of the hand, he moved to the front. circled an old palm tree at Nash. At the same time, I managed to do it with a permanent marker on the front surface. loser I sewed a second layer of reinforcement in the area of the thumb and palm and started sewing to the back oh, and the palm will be a bit short! cut it off and threw it away. took the old back part and marked it again on Nash adding extra thumb material I sewed at several points to align the position of the parts relative to each other. This photo clearly shows the meaning of the expression “sewn with white thread” in order to prevent the formation of folds of excess material when bending the thumb when marking it, I bent it in the desired position, after which I cut it out sewed on reinforcement of the thumb and palm then I completely sewed all the parts together this is the end of last night to be continued 2 Quote
ser33 Posted April 22, 2024 Author Posted April 22, 2024 I started with the glove because the location of the remaining parts of the blocker depended on its location all supporting elements have been removed from the blocking board sheathing This photo shows two rows of parallel holes. I did the one closer to the front edge during the first repair of the blocker with the palm shifted down. the top rows were originally the location of the elements when sewing at the Vaughn factory Since I am conditionally “returning” the glove to the previous “neutral” position, all the elements must be sewn to their “old” places. sewed a wrist strap finger protection the back of the palm with a pillow in which I changed the stuffing and the front of the glove side glove holders inserted the blocking board and tried it on my hand happened... happened another shit The fact is that when I changed the profile of the blocking board last time, I oriented it to the “low” position of the palm. when I now moved it up, my wrist began to rest against the thickest part of the board. not a comfortable feeling took the board and slightly adjusted its profile making a clear flat area the size of a palm By the way, about the board itself. I even then noticed that it was made from a single piece of hard foam, unlike most boards from other manufacturers, including Vaughn itself, even on later models where the boards were made of multi-layer soft foam I knew that these gloves of mine were made to special order and may differ from retail products after which I altered the side holders of the glove, moving them closer to it in order to obtain a tighter connection between the glove and the blocking board. I don’t like the loose feeling on the blocker and, unlike a trap, I always fasten the blocker tightly to my hand to be continued... 3 Quote
ser33 Posted April 25, 2024 Author Posted April 25, 2024 cuff The cuff was in excellent condition, no cuts or tears. with the only exception - it did not wash There was soft foam inside the nylon pocket I now have a lot of new material, so we’ll do it “to the best of our ability” the upper part was made from AirMash, the lower part was made from Nash sewed it together by inserting foam and covered it with the hated binding and sewed it onto the glove. the blocker becomes similar to the blocker then proceeded to protect the thumb the defense was relatively fine except that Vaughn skimped on the Jenpro and not only made it from small pieces but the part itself was small on the reverse side everything was according to the classics - a tear from the plastic this usually happens due to a very small pocket under the plastic there was such foam inside which itself formed a pocket for plastic At the same time, the plastic was not secured in any way and dangled like a flower in an ice hole, constantly changing its position so I glued the plastic to the foam, fixing its correct position Another feature of the protection was that the cutout for the stick paddle was too small. traced the shape of the plastic and cut off the excess repaired a cut on the inside sewed a cut piece of Jenpro and sewed the pieces together adding nylon binding and in the place of friction with the paddle stick there is a binding from Jenpro sewed a loop for the wrist strap and sewed the protection in its place to be continued... 3 Quote
ArdeFIN Posted April 28, 2024 Posted April 28, 2024 You have to find yourself a sewing machine! If not the best or most modern but some used and old heavy duty. You'll take such a leap forward with quality and what you get done for the time you use it is irreplaceable. Also the bindings will be a bit easier to do, but to make them nice and easy you would still need a guide for the machine. I hate to do the bindings as I don't have the guide for it, yet.... If you haven't yet then remember to fit the sidewall properly as it is really dependent to the front plate profile. When I made my V5 blocker I got it only close and it always looked bad as the top end was opening out because it didn't line up with the curve. Lessons learned though. Excellent work as usual, I'm also looking forward to the end results. 1 1 Quote
ser33 Posted May 2, 2024 Author Posted May 2, 2024 it's time for the side blocking board. I never liked the shape of the old Vaughn side blocking boards and started constructing my own version by cutting and sewing pieces of Jenpro sewed a jumper between the blocking board and the thumb guard and inserted a piece of plastic into it The Bauer side blocking board is considered the toughest on the market. This is achieved by using a sandwich made of thin high-density foam covered on both sides with CURV material. I didn't have CURV so I used regular plastic about 1-1.5mm thick I glued high-density and softer foam onto it and inserted it inside, after which I sewed the board to the blocker I initially made a thick protection for the index finger, but decided to play it safe and cut out additional protection from high-density foam, which I then covered with Jenpro and sewed to the blocker Well, this is what happened in the end. just like "real" it all weighs 730 grams the previous version weighed 758 grams. progress though! for comparison, Bauer's 1S weighs 945 grams. significant difference moving the palm to a neutral position improved the seal into the paddle down That's all with the blocker. but that's not the end of the story. to be continued 3 Quote
ser33 Posted May 3, 2024 Author Posted May 3, 2024 I completely forgot. attaching protection to fingers. To avoid the twisting of the fingers that occurs when attaching the elastic to one side of the finger, I inserted the elastic into the pre-sewn loops on the protection and sewed them on both sides of the finger. works great 2 Quote
ArdeFIN Posted May 3, 2024 Posted May 3, 2024 12 hours ago, ser33 said: I completely forgot. attaching protection to fingers. To avoid the twisting of the fingers that occurs when attaching the elastic to one side of the finger, I inserted the elastic into the pre-sewn loops on the protection and sewed them on both sides of the finger. works great That's ingenious! It allows some twisting and settling but propably doesn't force the finger to twist. 1 Quote
ser33 Posted May 6, 2024 Author Posted May 6, 2024 Yes! I'm a fucking genius! ahahaha! even Vaughn copies my ideas 2 Quote
ser33 Posted May 6, 2024 Author Posted May 6, 2024 So all this action with the blocker, as you probably guessed, was a prelude to repairing the trap I don’t have a photo of its original condition, but it looked something like this The ordered materials for repairs are gradually coming to me and the movement will soon begin. in the meantime, you can find out how to bring old gloves back to life and do it not only efficiently but also as authentically as possible. I highly recommend this topic I will also try to do it efficiently, but I can’t promise authenticity Soon everything will be... 2 Quote
ser33 Posted May 8, 2024 Author Posted May 8, 2024 (edited) the trap was disassembled and washed. about 5 years ago. this time I just cleaned it of traces of pucks A particularly tough test was the removal of eyelets, some of which were damaged places requiring attention immediately became visible this occurs from excessive tightening during assembly, but primarily from bending of the small plate in my case, the back of the hand in the front was made of nylon without any backing and over time it “shrinked” a little, further increasing the tension the inner palm is more interesting. besides the fact that medium-density foam about 2-3mm thick is sewn onto it it itself is made of a fairly thick Nash-type material but smooth on the front side and “shaggy” reminiscent of the back of Jenpro on the inside again, due to age, both sides have become “shaggy” with noticeable abrasions in the palm area Once the trap is disassembled, we can make a comparison with my Bauers I aligned Vaughn's palm along the break line with my 1S oh miracle! they match! that means they both have the same breaking angle The lines of the upper part completely matched, except that on Vaughn the thumb was slightly longer No wonder I liked the Bauer trap so much! she was close in feel to Vaughn which I loved for many years but the bottom lines showed that Vaughn is noticeably larger both at the tips of the fingers and at the bottom, especially the longer break line as you know, the legal size of a trap depends on its perimeter, which includes not only the size of the palm but also the length of the bars T It’s logical that the smaller the area of the palm and therefore its perimeter, the larger the length of the bars T and the size of the pocket can be But that is not all. the depth of the pocket is also regulated, which consists of the length of the leg T and the length of the breaking line and here, too, everything is logical - the shorter the breaking line, the longer the leg T, and therefore the depth of the pocket and here you need to decide what is more important - the size of the palm and its blocking surface or the size and depth of the pocket. something to think about I didn’t stop there and compared the Vaughn palm with the Vapor trap here it was already a little different - the area almost coincided, although Vaughn is still a little larger, especially in the length of the break line, but the angle of the break was completely different and did not match. a noticeable difference between the Supreme and Vaopr lines from Bauer Well, the last comparison for today. in the photo there is a Vaughn logo from 15+ years ago and a Bauer logo that is less than 10 years old. find 10 differences. haha. At the same time, Bauer is also inside the silicone fill, but it still peeled off. That's what the quality and durability of classic Vaughn means! to be continued... p.s. knowledgeable people, please tell me what the breaking angle is on Supreme and Vapor Edited May 8, 2024 by ser33 2 Quote
ser33 Posted May 13, 2024 Author Posted May 13, 2024 (edited) On 4/28/2024 at 12:06 PM, ArdeFIN said: Also the bindings will be a bit easier to do, but to make them nice and easy you would still need a guide for the machine. I hate to do the bindings as I don't have the guide for it, yet.... The weekend was long and turned out to be very eventful for me. primarily in terms of information. I found out about the existence of a sewing machine attachment for sewing binding that ArdeFIN talked about and I will buy it soon I got a 2X PRO set as well as the 3S glove but I will deal with them after Vaughn I also found out that Bauer on his PRO gloves uses 4mm plastic on a large plate and not the 3mm that I bought The long-awaited skin has arrived. she was white but not white enough for Vaughn as ArdeFIN wrote quite rightly in his topics, Vaughn uses its own leather that is completely different from others and it is unrealistic to match it with anything other than Vaughn products ok it's solvable I also did a little sewing the outside of the thumb was in normal condition, but inside there were marks on Nash that could not be washed off disassembled into parts from Nash, thin foam rubber was sewn on cut this part out of Nash, sewed foam rubber onto it and sewed it to the outside of the thumb I sewed it again by hand because I was too lazy to load the threads into the sewing machine, the seams will be hidden, but the most important reason is that I like to sew with my hands, it calms me down, a kind of relaxation after a hard day Next is the time of the outer palm as you can see in the photo below, I have already experimented with a one-piece cuff I never liked the two-piece cuff, but at that time there were simply no others. they began to appear en masse much later my cuff was in average condition with abrasions at the corners It was not possible to use it entirely, and I really wanted to keep the Vaughn logo, although if I manage to implement all the ideas in this glove, it will have the same relation to Vaughn as I do to Bauer or Brians. so I disassembled the cuff so that I could use it in parts since the purchased leather was very different in shade and I refused to use it on the front part Of course, as it turned out, I did it in vain As I wrote earlier, there was a dilemma - the area of the palm versus the size of the pocket. as you might guess, I chose a pocket circled the palm of 3S on Vaughn trimmed off the excess along the contour With this I killed two birds with one stone - I made a new palm of a smaller size and cut off some of the torn material to all supporters of authenticity - please don’t throw rotten tomatoes at me - I’m not trying to make a Bauer out of Vaughn, I already have enough of it - 1S, 2X, 3S In any case, in this project I will use solutions that are not so much more modern, but those that I consider more substantiated and tested on ice I sewed patches onto the remaining damaged parts after which he began to assemble a cuff from the pieces. In order to preserve the logo and due to the lack of suitable pieces, I had to turn the part with the logo over result Do you think I've calmed down on this? haha! no, I'm telling you, it was a long weekend I cut out large and small plates from 3mm plastic and adjusted them to the size of the palm I heated it into shape, drilled holes and laced it to the palm. I like how it turned out to be continued... Edited May 13, 2024 by ser33 3 Quote
ser33 Posted June 6, 2024 Author Posted June 6, 2024 (edited) I consider the goalie trap to be one of the most difficult pieces of equipment to wear. By changing one element, you automatically get to change the one associated with it, and so on in increasing order creating a glove from scratch may not be the most intelligent activity, but it is very exciting is not it? So sewed on the sides of the cuff I bought new white leather. this time "snow-white". Naturally, it didn't match the Jenpro Vaughn shade either. lol The back of the glove began to be made of fabric, let’s call it “nylon”. I unknowingly bought fabric with a density of 1680 D. To understand, fabric of this density is used for making hockey bags assembled the glove pieces together using thick thread then I shaped the back side as I already said, the original Nash palm was quite worn and had finger marks that could not be washed off cut out a new Nash and temporarily sewed it to the back marking the finger pocket locations reassembled the glove, marked and punched holes for lacing after which I began to work on the finger pocket, which on this glove was also made of Nash with all the consequences of use. From my own experience I will say that this solution, although it increases service life, is very hot and makes your fingers sweat more. so I used 3D air mash, cut it out, stitched it together and sewed the palms onto Nash from a piece of old Jenpro I made a mesh reinforcement in the place of the little finger loop and sewed the little finger loop itself in its place after which I sewed a binding onto the finger pocket I haven’t sewed the edges of the pocket to the palm yet, I’ll show you why later to be continued... Edited June 6, 2024 by ser33 4 Quote
ser33 Posted June 10, 2024 Author Posted June 10, 2024 let's continue I sewed the leather around the perimeter where the holes for lacing will be made to strengthen it tried on the thumb pocket cut off the excess and sewed on the finger and cut off the excess again sewed a thumb loop everything is in place started fixing the wrist. This is one of the few pieces that has been preserved in very good condition. on this Vaughn model, this part fixed both the hand and the wrist. I ditched the wrist strap on my 1S. and I’m very pleased with it. Bauer read my topic and did the same on Mach. lol so I carefully removed the binding and cut off the “unnecessary” then I sewed the binding back sewed the front part to the palm the back part will be attached with a common cord so it is not assembled yet to be continued... 2 Quote
ser33 Posted June 13, 2024 Author Posted June 13, 2024 (edited) the original cuff was in good condition with one exception - it was too small, the sleeve of my C/A constantly rested against it compared to the Bauer cuff this is noticeable tried on the CCM cuff. it was too big and made from one piece, I was too lazy to make such a large part Bauer cuffs are two parts and fit much better traced on a sheet of foam and cut out after which I traced the foam onto the fabric sewed on Velcro pinched from the side of the hand by Nash and sewed it together by inserting foam then I started doing my favorite thing - sewing on binding the upper part was made according to the same principle, preserving the segmentation of the original Bauer cuff at the top is the inimitable original, at the bottom is a poor copy. Don't mix it up! lol to be continued... Edited June 13, 2024 by ser33 2 Quote
ser33 Posted July 1, 2024 Author Posted July 1, 2024 after assembling and measuring the perimeter without a pocket, I got 84 cm, this means that I have a “legal” 30 cm per pocket I noticed that the top T bridge on both the Vaughn and the Supreme is a simple rectangular shape, which simplified my task cut out two parts 10 and 8 cm from leather I sewed them together and glued on a strip of foam. foam is also used on the Vaughn pocket Vaughn's old pocket had a double T that came from an old Itech glove. decided to use it replacing broken plastic sewn and bound pocket I know from my own experience that in order to improve opening and closing, the plastic should not overlap the lacing holes. but these holes still need to be reinforced. on Vaughn, thick leather pieces were used for this. I used them again in a new pocket for the rest of the parts T used 3mm plastic put everything together. it turned out like this. closing with literally two fingers to be continued... 1 Quote
ser33 Posted July 1, 2024 Author Posted July 1, 2024 small offtopic. in case anyone is interested. Hyperlite blocking board. hard black foam and no Curv in the center of the board 2 Quote
keeperton Posted July 2, 2024 Posted July 2, 2024 On 7/1/2024 at 12:22 AM, ser33 said: small offtopic. in case anyone is interested. Hyperlite blocking board. hard black foam and no Curv in the center of the board Huh, those were the two most dead parts of the board when I used one. Quote
ser33 Posted July 8, 2024 Author Posted July 8, 2024 I spent a very long time trying on the Vaughn backhand, which was aggravated by the fact that I took it apart into two parts in the end I decided to leave it unchanged. reassembled and sheathed with new binding I originally bought new white laces for the pocket, but by chance I found completely new black laces. intertwined pocket There is a theory, I won’t say that I particularly believe in it, that the shooter reacts to the brightest spot on the target and subconsciously directs the puck there. but it would be fun to check. so I took an orange cord and weaved it around the center of the double T thanks to the single strap fastening system and the shape of the cuff, the gloved hand has fantastic dexterity finished glove. easy to close. easy to open. "straight out of the box" as they say the whole thing weighs 864 grams Hyperlite and 1S weigh noticeably more, both in numbers and in how they feel on the hand I hope this is the end of the story and all this creativity of mine will work fine on ice thanks to everyone who read, reacted and commented 2 Quote
ser33 Posted July 10, 2024 Author Posted July 10, 2024 post without pictures Yesterday was the first ice with a new glove. first impressions weight This is one of the parameters that I couldn’t control and just did as best I could. it turned out easy. and it is very strongly felt. even at the end of 1 hour 40 minutes of ice, my arm was able to move without feeling like there was a weight attached to it mobility The cuff design and size fit my C/A perfectly. the sleeve did not catch and the glove rotated perfectly. I won’t say that I had problems with the 1S, especially after I, following the example of ArdeFIN, changed the design of the upper cuff valve, but the new glove is even more flexible catching Well, and most importantly, what the glove is intended for. During the first half of the ice there were no throws towards the glove at all, I even began to worry that I wouldn’t be able to fully try it. then the shooters broke through. I made 4-5 saves with the glove. the puck entered the pocket very cleanly and died there. no bounces or falling out protection once the puck hit the top of the break. and went straight into my pocket. it was palpable. I wouldn’t say it’s very painful, but it’s quite noticeable. probably 6 out of 10. protection is what I was most worried about since I made it only from foam, without traditional felt. I will spend several ices before deciding whether to leave such protection or whether I will have to strengthen it balance I’m not entirely sure what this means, but Matt from HR.ca talks about it all the time in his YouTube reviews. haha. Based on my understanding of this term, I can say that the balance of the resulting glove is ideal for me. the center of gravity is close to the base of the thumb and the pocket with the palm does not outweigh causing the glove to gradually fall down convenience Well, the last and probably the most important impression. This was the most difficult project for me, even compared to homemade composite skates based on a cast of the foot. I assembled and disassembled the glove several times, altered it, cut it off and sewed it on again. of course, all the time trying it on MY brush. In the end, I got the perfect glove for ME, taking into account all the features of my hand. like skates based on a cast of a foot. total custom glove. haha. and accordingly, it fits me so perfectly in a way that is impossible with gloves from other manufacturers. This is perhaps the most important thing in this project. I’m rarely happy with my projects (damn perfectionism) but here it’s definitely 10 out of 10 thanks to all I hope this completes the V3 project. I have several more sets of “hands” and even some pads waiting for me, but these will be other stories that I (if you want or not) will share over time 2 Quote
ser33 Posted July 17, 2024 Author Posted July 17, 2024 on the second ice I received exactly the same injection in the same place. Well, the decision to strengthen the palm has been made. especially since I had this for those who don’t know (it’s unlikely there are any, but still) this is the same smart foam D30 from CCM I had no experience using it, but I have Bauer’s Poron XRD in literally every item from this manufacturer, even in the knee blocks of the 1S pads. I am very skeptical about these foams, considering that 90% is just marketing. I'll be happy to be wrong if they really work better than other foams. on the CCM glove these pieces are sewn into the outer palm, that is, they are the very first layer in the path of the puck. to plastic and other protection I did the same. glued the larger piece to the small plate on the outside and a small one to the skin of the front part in the area of the break and thumb also replaced the rest of the initially softer foam with a denser one then I put everything back together and already tested it last night what to say. I'm still very skeptical, but what happened works 146%. the bites stopped I think this is the combined merit of combining smart foam with stupid foam either way it works great. which is what they were trying to achieve a few words about the glove itself. unexpectedly for me it turned out to be simply fantastic. We have such a common expression “the glove catches itself.” and with this glove it really is. fantastic performance. any puck flying towards the glove ends up in the pocket. sometimes I don’t even have time to trace the path of the puck and it’s already in my pocket The result of this project surprised me very much. The glove turned out to be ugly and an understanding person will immediately recognize its “unbranded” origin. but how does it work! how it sits on the hand! a project that made me a lot nervous and upset brought an unexpected result. fantastic! 2 Quote
johncho Posted July 17, 2024 Posted July 17, 2024 This is a terrible thread because it gave me enough courage to buy a torn glove to fix. Updates to follow. 1 1 Quote
ser33 Posted July 18, 2024 Author Posted July 18, 2024 16 hours ago, johncho said: This is a terrible thread because it gave me enough courage to buy a torn glove to fix. Updates to follow. O! this is the best comment ever! I’m very pleased that my humble work inspires someone! Thank you! I will definitely be waiting for your topic 1 Quote
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