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Vaughn V3 glove and blocker


ser33

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Hi all!

this is a continuation of an old topic

During the last renovation it was briefly done

palm partially replaced

increased finger protection

changed shape of blocking and side boards

improved wrist mobility

changed the spatial position of the glove with a downward shift

it looked like this

IMG_20200308_111440.thumb.jpg.6fc40a5a8194ba46a16ebfa91bb8693a.jpg.71888f2b97845830a05b2b43465a7aee.jpg

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I've had these gloves for about 10 years and they amazed me with their durability. were also very comfortable

After this repair, I played them for some time until the Bauer 1S appeared, which led to additional wear and tear

I decided to return to them again and started a new renovation. The main thing that was my mistake was moving the glove lower on the blocking board. This was caused by the fact that when I was repairing the blocker, I used a Reebok blocker instead and I had several painful bites on my forearm, to avoid which I moved the glove to V3. which spoiled the overall balance and made playing paddle down difficult

I'll have to fix this

I gradually began to cut off individual parts from the blocker, starting with the finger protection. then I made them from nylon and they had noticeable wear after use

a71wRXgLX80.thumb.jpg.fb6aae6775ed68e63fee558e6cec62c5.jpg

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I was also annoyed by the binding, I hate sewing it

Having taken the protection apart, I first sewed pieces of nylon slings onto the inner parts facing the fingers

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I sewed a piece of Jenpro onto the outside of the index finger guard and sewed all the pieces together from the inside out and then turned them inside out

3snSN-cd0CU.thumb.jpg.5e3458e761529c5bb0d9144658f88084.jpg

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to protect the other fingers I did not use a whole piece of Jenpro but a small part from the original Vaughn protection

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sewed and turned. it turned out like this

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after which he began to repair the palm

at that time she already looked bad

 

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I found a local supplier for some renovation materials and purchased Nash from him.

vzjgyYITR1g.thumb.jpg.a48fcfbe0ae3ea2a5e6d6b339a501a64.jpg

cut out the back of the hand with a double layer on the fingers

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into which I inserted foam from the original glove

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and sewed on the side part from 3D air mash material

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m2spMf0M3P0.thumb.jpg.1234dbab428c3aaa576902d60c98a230.jpg

to be continued

 

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56 minutes ago, mik said:

To be continued? Are you kiddnig me 😀? Great thread and looking forvard to see finised refurb. 

calm mon cher just calm. New episodes of the show are in post-production and will soon be available via paid subscription. Ahaha

but seriously. I have catastrophically little free time and I actually do everything in real time. I did it yesterday and showed it today. Soon everything will be

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Having finished with the back of the hand, he moved to the front. circled an old palm tree at Nash. At the same time, I managed to do it with a permanent marker on the front surface. loser

I sewed a second layer of reinforcement in the area of the thumb and palm

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and started sewing to the back

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oh, and the palm will be a bit short!

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cut it off and threw it away. took the old back part and marked it again on Nash

adding extra thumb material

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I sewed at several points to align the position of the parts relative to each other. This photo clearly shows the meaning of the expression “sewn with white thread”

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in order to prevent the formation of folds of excess material when bending the thumb when marking it, I bent it in the desired position, after which I cut it out

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sewed on reinforcement of the thumb and palm

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then I completely sewed all the parts together

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this is the end of last night

to be continued

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I started with the glove because the location of the remaining parts of the blocker depended on its location

all supporting elements have been removed from the blocking board sheathing

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This photo shows two rows of parallel holes. I did the one closer to the front edge during the first repair of the blocker with the palm shifted down. the top rows were originally the location of the elements when sewing at the Vaughn factory

IMG20240418191007.thumb.jpg.344a6bfdf3ea17aebb1b9e94a3d14bf3.jpg

Since I am conditionally “returning” the glove to the previous “neutral” position, all the elements must be sewn to their “old” places. sewed a wrist strap

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finger protection

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the back of the palm with a pillow in which I changed the stuffing

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and the front of the glove

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side glove holders

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inserted the blocking board and tried it on my hand

happened...

happened another shit

The fact is that when I changed the profile of the blocking board last time, I oriented it to the “low” position of the palm. when I now moved it up, my wrist began to rest against the thickest part of the board. not a comfortable feeling

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took the board and slightly adjusted its profile making a clear flat area the size of a palm

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By the way, about the board itself. I even then noticed that it was made from a single piece of hard foam, unlike most boards from other manufacturers, including Vaughn itself, even on later models where the boards were made of multi-layer soft foam

IMG_20210308_183436_9x12.jpg.482379cc982ba8fb4169e960c74747bd.thumb.jpg.92de4b05608df695bcd522065ae0432c.jpg

I knew that these gloves of mine were made to special order and may differ from retail products

after which I altered the side holders of the glove, moving them closer to it in order to obtain a tighter connection between the glove and the blocking board. I don’t like the loose feeling on the blocker and, unlike a trap, I always fasten the blocker tightly to my hand

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to be continued...

 

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cuff

The cuff was in excellent condition, no cuts or tears. with the only exception - it did not wash

There was soft foam inside the nylon pocket

IMG20240423172242.thumb.jpg.a068c3c210487138b341b30805cfcdc4.jpg

I now have a lot of new material, so we’ll do it “to the best of our ability”

the upper part was made from AirMash, the lower part was made from Nash

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sewed it together by inserting foam and covered it with the hated binding

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and sewed it onto the glove. the blocker becomes similar to the blocker

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then proceeded to protect the thumb

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the defense was relatively fine except that Vaughn skimped on the Jenpro and not only made it from small pieces but the part itself was small

on the reverse side everything was according to the classics - a tear from the plastic

IMG20240420190537.thumb.jpg.4ab4686454071dca1f1fa63e73c0616a.jpg

this usually happens due to a very small pocket under the plastic

there was such foam inside

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which itself formed a pocket for plastic

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At the same time, the plastic was not secured in any way and dangled like a flower in an ice hole, constantly changing its position

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so I glued the plastic to the foam, fixing its correct position

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Another feature of the protection was that the cutout for the stick paddle was too small. traced the shape of the plastic and cut off the excess

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repaired a cut on the inside

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sewed a cut piece of Jenpro and sewed the pieces together adding nylon binding

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and in the place of friction with the paddle stick there is a binding from Jenpro

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sewed a loop for the wrist strap

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and sewed the protection in its place

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to be continued...

 

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You have to find yourself a sewing machine! If not the best or most modern but some used and old heavy duty. You'll take such a leap forward with quality and what you get done for the time you use it is irreplaceable.

Also the bindings will be a bit easier to do, but to make them nice and easy you would still need a guide for the machine. I hate to do the bindings as I don't have the guide for it, yet....

If you haven't yet then remember to fit the sidewall properly as it is really dependent to the front plate profile. When I made my V5 blocker I got it only close and it always looked bad as the top end was opening out because it didn't line up with the curve. Lessons learned though. :)

Excellent work as usual, I'm also looking forward to the end results.

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it's time for the side blocking board. I never liked the shape of the old Vaughn side blocking boards and started constructing my own version by cutting and sewing pieces of Jenpro

jYJ50KarGNA.thumb.jpg.79c6cafdf80cc788e264b51abe7bde06.jpg

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sewed a jumper between the blocking board and the thumb guard and inserted a piece of plastic into it

 

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The Bauer side blocking board is considered the toughest on the market. This is achieved by using a sandwich made of thin high-density foam covered on both sides with CURV material.

IMG_20220313_105351.thumb.jpg.4acf1966640f1c84695c1f2646e2fffd.jpg

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I didn't have CURV so I used regular plastic about 1-1.5mm thick

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I glued high-density and softer foam onto it and inserted it inside, after which I sewed the board to the blocker

IMG20240428180920.thumb.jpg.82da28d06deb13cead2251cb90181d3b.jpg

I initially made a thick protection for the index finger, but decided to play it safe and cut out additional protection from high-density foam, which I then covered with Jenpro and sewed to the blocker

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Well, this is what happened in the end. just like "real"

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it all weighs 730 grams

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the previous version weighed 758 grams. progress though!

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for comparison, Bauer's 1S weighs 945 grams. significant difference

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moving the palm to a neutral position improved the seal into the paddle down

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That's all with the blocker. but that's not the end of the story. to be continued

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I completely forgot. attaching protection to fingers. To avoid the twisting of the fingers that occurs when attaching the elastic to one side of the finger, I inserted the elastic into the pre-sewn loops on the protection and sewed them on both sides of the finger. works great

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12 hours ago, ser33 said:

I completely forgot. attaching protection to fingers. To avoid the twisting of the fingers that occurs when attaching the elastic to one side of the finger, I inserted the elastic into the pre-sewn loops on the protection and sewed them on both sides of the finger. works great

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That's ingenious! It allows some twisting and settling but propably doesn't force the finger to twist.

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So all this action with the blocker, as you probably guessed, was a prelude to repairing the trap

I don’t have a photo of its original condition, but it looked something like this

IMG_20200603_183425.thumb.jpg.ed9a31087d8b06fc65bd804b1a4f207c.jpg.aba3bfa2b4308ee2de70de6d5b1db550.jpg

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IMG_20200603_183445.jpg.134bb1fb833f2cb08845d45a06bebe3c.thumb.jpg.0fb34797a022873177df91f373f9d60f.jpg

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The ordered materials for repairs are gradually coming to me and the movement will soon begin. in the meantime, you can find out how to bring old gloves back to life and do it not only efficiently but also as authentically as possible. I highly recommend this topic

I will also try to do it efficiently, but I can’t promise authenticity

Soon everything will be...

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Posted (edited)

the trap was disassembled and washed. about 5 years ago. this time I just cleaned it of traces of pucks

IMG20240503172743.thumb.jpg.fdcfa651e4e6c3ec1f257b285363342a.jpg

.trashed-1717501214-IMG20240505143052.thumb.jpg.812d2815b32a356768622a3db7d7a2d9.jpg

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A particularly tough test was the removal of eyelets, some of which were damaged

places requiring attention immediately became visible

IMG20240503185221.thumb.jpg.623c9ad3dd65f08bb92d98c96137b6f3.jpg

.trashed-1717501281-IMG20240503185227.thumb.jpg.39f9919c7647b3396173b9d6bc784831.jpg

this occurs from excessive tightening during assembly, but primarily from bending of the small plate

in my case, the back of the hand in the front was made of nylon without any backing and over time it “shrinked” a little, further increasing the tension

the inner palm is more interesting. besides the fact that medium-density foam about 2-3mm thick is sewn onto it

IMG20240505151012.thumb.jpg.7bb371c99160142f3e98ca90806e87e1.jpg

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it itself is made of a fairly thick Nash-type material but smooth on the front side and “shaggy” reminiscent of the back of Jenpro on the inside

IMG20240505150836.thumb.jpg.0458e5d7afef0206f4279655b385c034.jpg

IMG20240505150859.thumb.jpg.05493fa729654e32dd05db55f98aca0b.jpg

again, due to age, both sides have become “shaggy” with noticeable abrasions in the palm area

IMG20240505150853.thumb.jpg.1861b8b0ccf3f81c2a4bd76e7bd6635b.jpg

IMG20240505151349.thumb.jpg.33e287690fe0f832dea31c757528f461.jpg

Once the trap is disassembled, we can make a comparison with my Bauers

I aligned Vaughn's palm along the break line with my 1S

.trashed-1717360102-IMG20240503172830.thumb.jpg.fc92d0422d89bc3dd1741be69fd1f84c.jpg

oh miracle! they match! that means they both have the same breaking angle

The lines of the upper part completely matched, except that on Vaughn the thumb was slightly longer

IMG20240503172821.thumb.jpg.8e507148ab761f347a8624e8ea66239f.jpg

No wonder I liked the Bauer trap so much! she was close in feel to Vaughn which I loved for many years

but the bottom lines showed that Vaughn is noticeably larger both at the tips of the fingers and at the bottom, especially the longer break line

.trashed-1717360079-IMG20240503172851.thumb.jpg.4409349f29aca7bf5c98b0e3a681b6ed.jpg

as you know, the legal size of a trap depends on its perimeter, which includes not only the size of the palm but also the length of the bars T

It’s logical that the smaller the area of the palm and therefore its perimeter, the larger the length of the bars T and the size of the pocket can be

But that is not all. the depth of the pocket is also regulated, which consists of the length of the leg T and the length of the breaking line

gOZ0cmv8C84.jpg.554a86af1c093bacba0a8f639865898b.jpg

and here, too, everything is logical - the shorter the breaking line, the longer the leg T, and therefore the depth of the pocket

and here you need to decide what is more important - the size of the palm and its blocking surface or the size and depth of the pocket. something to think about

I didn’t stop there and compared the Vaughn palm with the Vapor trap

Yhiwbm6sO3I.thumb.jpg.9059d63dc401c515c752b9960356d05a.jpg

here it was already a little different - the area almost coincided, although Vaughn is still a little larger, especially in the length of the break line, but the angle of the break was completely different and did not match. a noticeable difference between the Supreme and Vaopr lines from Bauer

Well, the last comparison for today. in the photo there is a Vaughn logo from 15+ years ago and a Bauer logo that is less than 10 years old. find 10 differences. haha. At the same time, Bauer is also inside the silicone fill, but it still peeled off. That's what the quality and durability of classic Vaughn means!

IMG20240505140919.thumb.jpg.f57ad06d76693947f41fe3d0d6ef1c98.jpg

to be continued...

p.s. knowledgeable people, please tell me what the breaking angle is on Supreme and Vapor

 

Edited by ser33
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Posted (edited)
On 4/28/2024 at 12:06 PM, ArdeFIN said:

Also the bindings will be a bit easier to do, but to make them nice and easy you would still need a guide for the machine. I hate to do the bindings as I don't have the guide for it, yet....

The weekend was long and turned out to be very eventful for me. primarily in terms of information. I found out about the existence of a sewing machine attachment for sewing binding that ArdeFIN talked about and I will buy it soon

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I got a 2X PRO set

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as well as the 3S glove

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but I will deal with them after Vaughn

I also found out that Bauer on his PRO gloves uses 4mm plastic on a large plate and not the 3mm that I bought

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The long-awaited skin has arrived. she was white but not white enough for Vaughn

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as ArdeFIN wrote quite rightly in his topics, Vaughn uses its own leather that is completely different from others and it is unrealistic to match it with anything other than Vaughn products

ok it's solvable

I also did a little sewing

the outside of the thumb was in normal condition, but inside there were marks on Nash that could not be washed off

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disassembled into parts from Nash, thin foam rubber was sewn on

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cut this part out of Nash, sewed foam rubber onto it and sewed it to the outside of the thumb

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I sewed it again by hand because I was too lazy to load the threads into the sewing machine, the seams will be hidden, but the most important reason is that I like to sew with my hands, it calms me down, a kind of relaxation after a hard day

Next is the time of the outer palm

as you can see in the photo below, I have already experimented with a one-piece cuff

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I never liked the two-piece cuff, but at that time there were simply no others. they began to appear en masse much later

my cuff was in average condition with abrasions at the corners

It was not possible to use it entirely, and I really wanted to keep the Vaughn logo, although if I manage to implement all the ideas in this glove, it will have the same relation to Vaughn as I do to Bauer or Brians. so I disassembled the cuff so that I could use it in parts since the purchased leather was very different in shade and I refused to use it on the front part

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Of course, as it turned out, I did it in vain

As I wrote earlier, there was a dilemma - the area of the palm versus the size of the pocket. as you might guess, I chose a pocket

circled the palm of 3S on Vaughn

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trimmed off the excess along the contour

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With this I killed two birds with one stone - I made a new palm of a smaller size and cut off some of the torn material

to all supporters of authenticity - please don’t throw rotten tomatoes at me - I’m not trying to make a Bauer out of Vaughn, I already have enough of it - 1S, 2X, 3S

In any case, in this project I will use solutions that are not so much more modern, but those that I consider more substantiated and tested on ice

I sewed patches onto the remaining damaged parts

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after which he began to assemble a cuff from the pieces. In order to preserve the logo and due to the lack of suitable pieces, I had to turn the part with the logo over

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result

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Do you think I've calmed down on this? haha! no, I'm telling you, it was a long weekend

I cut out large and small plates from 3mm plastic and adjusted them to the size of the palm

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I heated it into shape, drilled holes and laced it to the palm. I like how it turned out

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to be continued...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by ser33
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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I consider the goalie trap to be one of the most difficult pieces of equipment to wear. By changing one element, you automatically get to change the one associated with it, and so on in increasing order

creating a glove from scratch may not be the most intelligent activity, but it is very exciting

is not it?

So

sewed on the sides of the cuff

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I bought new white leather. this time "snow-white". Naturally, it didn't match the Jenpro Vaughn shade either. lol

The back of the glove began to be made of fabric, let’s call it “nylon”. I unknowingly bought fabric with a density of 1680 D. To understand, fabric of this density is used for making hockey bags

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assembled the glove pieces together using thick thread

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then I shaped the back side

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as I already said, the original Nash palm was quite worn and had finger marks that could not be washed off

cut out a new Nash and temporarily sewed it to the back

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marking the finger pocket locations

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reassembled the glove, marked and punched holes for lacing

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after which I began to work on the finger pocket, which on this glove was also made of Nash with all the consequences of use. From my own experience I will say that this solution, although it increases service life, is very hot and makes your fingers sweat more.

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so I used 3D air mash, cut it out, stitched it together and sewed the palms onto Nash

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from a piece of old Jenpro I made a mesh reinforcement in the place of the little finger loop

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and sewed the little finger loop itself in its place

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after which I sewed a binding onto the finger pocket

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I haven’t sewed the edges of the pocket to the palm yet, I’ll show you why later

to be continued...

Edited by ser33
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let's continue

I sewed the leather around the perimeter where the holes for lacing will be made to strengthen it

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tried on the thumb pocket

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cut off the excess and sewed on the finger and cut off the excess again

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sewed a thumb loop

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everything is in place

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started fixing the wrist. This is one of the few pieces that has been preserved in very good condition.

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on this Vaughn model, this part fixed both the hand and the wrist. I ditched the wrist strap on my 1S. and I’m very pleased with it. Bauer read my topic and did the same on Mach. lol

so I carefully removed the binding and cut off the “unnecessary”

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then I sewed the binding back

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sewed the front part to the palm

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the back part will be attached with a common cord so it is not assembled yet

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to be continued...

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Posted (edited)

the original cuff was in good condition

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with one exception - it was too small, the sleeve of my C/A constantly rested against it

compared to the Bauer cuff this is noticeable

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tried on the CCM cuff. it was too big and made from one piece, I was too lazy to make such a large part

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Bauer cuffs are two parts and fit much better

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traced on a sheet of foam and cut out

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after which I traced the foam onto the fabric

sewed on Velcro

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pinched from the side of the hand by Nash

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and sewed it together by inserting foam

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then I started doing my favorite thing - sewing on binding

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the upper part was made according to the same principle, preserving the segmentation of the original Bauer cuff

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at the top is the inimitable original, at the bottom is a poor copy. Don't mix it up! lol

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to be continued...

 

 

Edited by ser33
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