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Cage Paint


TheGoalNet
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31 minutes ago, bunnyman666 said:

Do you have any idea how it is finished? That is the first question. It is most likely powdercoated, though possibly painted. Paint pops off easily; powder coat does not.  It would be easier to get an unpainted cage and have it powdercoated. 

Interesting, I was thinking that the already painted one would be easier. I was hoping the bottom layer would act like a primer 

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7 minutes ago, TheGoalNet said:

Interesting, I was thinking that the already painted one would be easier. I was hoping the bottom layer would act like a primer 

Powdercoat is a totally different animal. It has to be super clean, as the metal is electrostatically charged and then the powder is baked in an oven.

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I've never had a painted cage but have heard that there's a possibility that the paint can chip off and fly into your eyes. Again, never seen/had that happen, but have heard stories.

And you'll probably have to take it to a shop that specializes in powdercoating, as most body shops don't do it.

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7 hours ago, parebele said:

I've never had a painted cage but have heard that there's a possibility that the paint can chip off and fly into your eyes. Again, never seen/had that happen, but have heard stories.

And you'll probably have to take it to a shop that specializes in powdercoating, as most body shops don't do it.

Silly me forgot to mention the obvious! 

Powdercoating is done in batches, much like chrome (and other) plating. The pieces are electrostatically charged, then put into an oven. The powder that falls off is then recycled for the next use. 

I thought of starting my own little powdercoating business. I should have taken a former co-worker's perfectly operational (but did not match her new decor) oven, because it literally would have been perfect for baking composites, hobbyist (meaning small parts) powdercoating, and some urethane paints! 

A shoppe that does wheels may throw your cage in a batch to get done. They would also most likely have the process that would render your painted cage clean for coating as they have to clean wheels of brake dust and in many cases, old coatings. I don't know if they could remove the old powdercoating or not. 

Am I making it sound like this could be an expensive endeavour? It could be; however- you may be able to get a powdercoater who either wants a challenge and/or experiment or just likes you a lot who will do it for not much. But I would bet that they would throw it in a batch of the same colour, and you would wait a bit. But if you gave them five spare cages, they would probably do that for you in the normal waiting period. 

 

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26 minutes ago, BMFSdesigns said:

I've seen this exact post a thousand times. Take the cage to any autobody shop that does powder coating.

Typically they will sandblast the cage first then do the powder coating. I've had 30+ cages done and they'll dent from a puck with no cracking in the powder coat. I see a lot of guys ask if they can plasti-dip or paint their cages (both will work but will chip)... for a note huge difference price just get it powder coated. Typically $20-35 for powder coating is pretty fair.

$20-35 is a fair price, for certain! Is it on demand or do you have to wait? I used to have to wait for a certain colour to be done with a set of wheels for my small batches, but it would not cost that much...

The wheel guys actually bead blast because aluminium will get weakened by sandblasting and walnut shell and baking soda blasting does not take off powdercoat. 

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49 minutes ago, TheGoalNet said:

But is there a form of spray paint, like for DIY car guys, that's designed to bond over powder coat paint?

 

@BMFSdesigns - any suggestions?

If you scratch it enough with a Scotchbrite pad, you MAY be able to get enough mechanical adhesion. Maybe an adhesion promoter may do the trick. But my first post is mostly the best advice...  

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26 minutes ago, bunnyman666 said:

If you scratch it enough with a Scotchbrite pad, you MAY be able to get enough mechanical adhesion. Maybe an adhesion promoter may do the trick. But my first post is mostly the best advice...  

Understood, doesn't look like there's any corner cutting here!!!

Maybe I'll spray paint the exisiting cage and use it for a rat skate to make sure I don't hate red before investing in the powder coating 

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7 hours ago, bunnyman666 said:

If you scratch it enough with a Scotchbrite pad, you MAY be able to get enough mechanical adhesion. Maybe an adhesion promoter may do the trick. But my first post is mostly the best advice...  

I don't think Scotchbrite is coarse enough. At least not enough to keep adhesion from flying pucks. And adhesion promoter will soften raw plastic and clear coat and the like, but I don't think it's enough for powdercoat. I've had good success at removing powdercoat using a wire wheel on a bench or hand grinder. Then you can scuff it with Scotchbrite and use an etch primer, then paint. I've only done that for display masks though. I don't think I'd risk using a painted one.

I do remember Curtis Joseph's Blues dog mask having a painted cage at the edges to blend in with the mask. And Grant Fuhr's buffalo skull mask had tan/brown around the edges of the cage as well. Then again, that's just light paint with an airbrush and not a total colour change.

$35 is around what they charge in the Toronto, Canada area.

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8 hours ago, parebele said:

I don't think Scotchbrite is coarse enough. At least not enough to keep adhesion from flying pucks. And adhesion promoter will soften raw plastic and clear coat and the like, but I don't think it's enough for powdercoat. I've had good success at removing powdercoat using a wire wheel on a bench or hand grinder. Then you can scuff it with Scotchbrite and use an etch primer, then paint. I've only done that for display masks though. I don't think I'd risk using a painted one.

I do remember Curtis Joseph's Blues dog mask having a painted cage at the edges to blend in with the mask. And Grant Fuhr's buffalo skull mask had tan/brown around the edges of the cage as well. Then again, that's just light paint with an airbrush and not a total colour change.

$35 is around what they charge in the Toronto, Canada area.

ultimately- Nothing  is enough!!!

Powdercoating is very difficult to remove, let alone scratch. That why it is the recommended finish method for the cage.

Edited by bunnyman666
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Where I am they have rent-out sandblast booths where you can do your own sandblasting on the (relatively) cheap. While it may not remove the powdercoating, it would probably rough it up enough to allow for good adhesion of a coat of paint.

One issue I would be concerned about is getting into every nook and cranny, specifically where the bars are welded at each crossing. If you don't get right in there then the paint will probably not bond as well and runs the risk of chipping off on impact, and you never know where that flake will end up... As parebele said, for a display mask this would probably be OK, but not too sure how well it would stand up under game play

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4 minutes ago, Ghostender said:

Where I am they have rent-out sandblast booths where you can do your own sandblasting on the (relatively) cheap. While it may not remove the powdercoating, it would probably rough it up enough to allow for good adhesion of a coat of paint.

One issue I would be concerned about is getting into every nook and cranny, specifically where the bars are welded at each crossing. If you don't get right in there then the paint will probably not bond as well and runs the risk of chipping off on impact, and you never know where that flake will end up... As parebele said, for a display mask this would probably be OK, but not too sure how well it would stand up under game play

For my testing of the red cage, I am just going to get some paint and spray over my matte paint. I'll post some pics of this temporary testing solution. 

I have access and experience to blasting cabinets, that doesn't scare too much. If everyone is saying that spray wont work, I don't even feel like testing it though. 

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2 hours ago, TheGoalNet said:

For my testing of the red cage, I am just going to get some paint and spray over my matte paint. I'll post some pics of this temporary testing solution. 

I have access and experience to blasting cabinets, that doesn't scare too much. If everyone is saying that spray wont work, I don't even feel like testing it though. 

The thing with spraying over white is that the colour result may not be accurate. Keep that in mind.

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57 minutes ago, bunnyman666 said:

The thing with spraying over white is that the colour result may not be accurate. Keep that in mind.

Sure, but I think for an eye test, red is red? May not match the can perfectly, but I will figure out if it's a distraction or not 

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2 hours ago, TheGoalNet said:

Sure, but I think for an eye test, red is red? May not match the can perfectly, but I will figure out if it's a distraction or not 

I see what you're saying. If a cage is on the right place, I never tend to notice the colour; This is also one of the reasons why I am conceding to a masque rather than a modern combo, as I end up looking through bars on mine.

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3 minutes ago, bunnyman666 said:

I see what you're saying. If a cage is on the right place, I never tend to notice the colour; This is also one of the reasons why I am conceding to a masque rather than a modern combo, as I end up looking through bars on mine.

Yes, I am going to paint it red tonight and skate with it tomorrow. I don't think red will bug me, but it will be nice to test it before going thru the trouble of having my new cage powder coated. The colored cages impacting goalies sight-lines is up there with black stick tape and white pads for me. I will be curious if this urban goalie myth actually gets me! 

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15 hours ago, tony20 said:

People have used plastidip in the past.  If you search the goaliestore.com forums (R.I.P.), you'll find some feedback.

Do you remember what the general feedback was? I almost bought that. But it said removable, so I was thinking that would peel worse than normal paint 

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