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Mask Shell - Trimming


jayluv54

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Does anyone know of a mask maker in the states that could "trim" a shell?  I talked to Michel @ Protech and he can do it, but I'd rather use someone in the states if I can to save time, shipping, etc.  Thanks.

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50 minutes ago, jayluv54 said:

Does anyone know of a mask maker in the states that could "trim" a shell?  I talked to Michel @ Protech and he can do it, but I'd rather use someone in the states if I can to save time, shipping, etc.  Thanks.

@bunnyman666 - this is calling your name 

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3 hours ago, bunnyman666 said:

Yes, @TheGoalNet?

@jayluv54 what would be getting trimmed? Chin length?

Show me with blue tape.

Its a MM mask I just bought from Joe Messina, but the shell is just gigantic, XL I believe, padded down to fit a M.  The shell is just way too big for me.  I'm trying to sell it, but if I can't, I will have to cut it down somehow.  I drew in where I would like it trimmed.  Probably 1/2" around the chin to 1" from ear wings around the back.mask.jpg.527a29f981ecc10331b6bd972be20bcf.jpg

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@jayluv54 I would try and sell it, first. Your paint will be ruined by the cutting, as there is a fair bit involved besides just cutting it, as the cuts have to be smoothed and sometimes bits filled. Can Mr. Messina provide any relief?

I bet your’re just feeling like the Great Gazoo with the size, it sounds. 

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5 minutes ago, bunnyman666 said:

@jayluv54 I would try and sell it, first. Your paint will be ruined by the cutting, as there is a fair bit involved besides just cutting it, as the cuts have to be smoothed and sometimes bits filled. Can Mr. Messina provide any relief?

I bet your’re just feeling like the Great Gazoo with the size, it sounds. 

Bobblehead is more like it.  He gave me a good deal on it because it was a display mask he had from a few years ago.  How far into the paint would it get messed up?  Would a small border of some kind of wrap material cover it?  I always thought that was a good idea anyway to protect the edges from chipping.

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Just now, jayluv54 said:

Bobblehead is more like it.  He gave me a good deal on it because it was a display mask he had from a few years ago.  How far into the paint would it get messed up?  Would a small border of some kind of wrap material cover it?  I always thought that was a good idea anyway to protect the edges from chipping.

Gah!

It just depends on what the laminating material does when cut. A void in the composite may show. Getting rid of the fuzzies from the kevlar can prove challenging. Sometimes, it may require some filling after rounding off the cuts. In the end, the paint could get lunched in the process, and you would have to cover up a fair bit more than you’d think. You could do a black “fade”, then some sort of edge binding like car door edge product. 

I still don’t know how happy you may be with the helmet after cutting it down. If it weren’t such a nice piece and you did not have much money in it, I could cut it down for you and send it onto your painter to purty it up; but I know you have some $$$ in this thing despite it being a deal. 

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3 minutes ago, jayluv54 said:

OK, thanks for checking it out.  I'll just keep trying to sell and see where it goes.

My pleasure. If the shell had “eat me” all over it and you were repainting, I would do it when I could handle machinery (I am out of commission for awhile) and dispatch it to your painter. But this is a very attractive helmet and it would be a shame to possibly destroy the paint.

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Yeah - I'm with Bunnyman - I'd be a bit concerned with how the exposed edge turned out after the cut - not too sure about the integrity. While you may be able to seal it off neatly, I suspect any shot, or even dropping it on the cut edge could cause some pretty bad chipping or worse yet, "chunking"*.

Also - not sure if you are looking at CF or fiberglass here, but I know my shop guys try to stay away from working with either: glass particulates can be nasty and can wear out tools quickly. CF would be the same for particulates and I am assuming also same for tool wear.

* "Chunk" = chip on steroids

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2 hours ago, jayluv54 said:

OK, thanks for checking it out.  I'll just keep trying to sell and see where it goes.

Can you send it back to Joe and have them trim it down? go Armadilla style and use rubber trim to cover the exposed edges?

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1 hour ago, Ghostender said:

Yeah - I'm with Bunnyman - I'd be a bit concerned with how the exposed edge turned out after the cut - not too sure about the integrity. While you may be able to seal it off neatly, I suspect any shot, or even dropping it on the cut edge could cause some pretty bad chipping or worse yet, "chunking"*.

Also - not sure if you are looking at CF or fiberglass here, but I know my shop guys try to stay away from working with either: glass particulates can be nasty and can wear out tools quickly. CF would be the same for particulates and I am assuming also same for tool wear.

* "Chunk" = chip on steroids

Its carbon fiber, fiberglass and kevlar.  I've heard using blades or cutting wheels designed to cut metal is the way to go, but I don't have any experience with that kind of thing.

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Using stuff to cut metal alone won't cut it (figuratively speaking and possibly pun intended). It will actually cut it, but will wear pretty quickly. Something with a carbide tip would help - but probably pretty difficult to find that in a scroll saw or jigsaw blade :(

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5 minutes ago, jayluv54 said:

Its carbon fiber, fiberglass and kevlar.  I've heard using blades or cutting wheels designed to cut metal is the way to go, but I don't have any experience with that kind of thing.

Again- it all depends on the method of layup, if there are voids, etc, etc. as far as any tear out from cutting. Sometimes it is clean (sticks are usually very clean; though I always cut with electrical tape wrapped), but sometimes it cuts a bit less clean, especially when it is hand laid. 

Abrasive wheels are the way to go when cutting composite. Teeth are the enemy.

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1 minute ago, bunnyman666 said:

Again- it all depends on the method of layup, if there are voids, etc, etc. as far as any tear out from cutting. Sometimes it is clean (sticks are usually very clean; though I always cut with electrical tape wrapped), but sometimes it cuts a bit less clean, especially when it is hand laid. 

Abrasive wheels are the way to go when cutting composite. Teeth are the enemy.

I definitely don't think this is something I would do myself, I just don't have the patience for this kind of work.  I'm one of those "just get a bigger hammer" kind of guys.

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1 minute ago, jayluv54 said:

I definitely don't think this is something I would do myself, I just don't have the patience for this kind of work.  I'm one of those "just get a bigger hammer" kind of guys.

I know. Just trying to inform as far as cutting it down. @cuprajake is right on all accounts, it is that sometimes a kevlar fibre can also catch the cutting wheel and make your dremel jump (yep- happened to me). I had the best form-fitting SK2000 clone once; however, my big ol’ ears would not clear the sides. I had to do surgery on it. That cut very cleanly with no tear out, and I got it to look factory. But trimming another hand laid item revealed some voids and the edges needed quite a bit of work ?

I just hope that I have educated here.

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16 minutes ago, bunnyman666 said:

I know. Just trying to inform as far as cutting it down. @cuprajake is right on all accounts, it is that sometimes a kevlar fibre can also catch the cutting wheel and make your dremel jump (yep- happened to me). I had the best form-fitting SK2000 clone once; however, my big ol’ ears would not clear the sides. I had to do surgery on it. That cut very cleanly with no tear out, and I got it to look factory. But trimming another hand laid item revealed some voids and the edges needed quite a bit of work ?

I just hope that I have educated here.

Always appreciative bunnyman.  Spoke to Joe and he wasn't too keen on the idea, so I sent Michel the picture I posted here just to confirm he was confident he could do it and he is.  So if it doesn't sell by the weekend, off it goes to Protech for some liposuction.

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Just now, jayluv54 said:

Always appreciative bunnyman.  Spoke to Joe and he wasn't too keen on the idea, so I sent Michel the picture I posted here just to confirm he was confident he could do it and he is.  So if it doesn't sell by the weekend, off it goes to Protech for some liposuction.

Michel is an EXCELLENT choice for this operation. If there is one I’d trust, he would be my guy!

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  • 1 month later...
Just now, bunnyman666 said:

I hope you did well on the sale.

Got what I paid for it, so pretty happy in that regard.  I've also grown to really like my offshore Pros Choice/Vaughn mask, so that made parting with it pretty easy..lol

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