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What is my gear worth?


old G

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I am starting this thread to create a resource as to what this community thinks anyone's item of gear may be worth to sell. I know it is worth what ever anyone is willing to pay for it, however there are a large number of ads for used gear where we all know it is way overpriced.

I also have another motivation with a story. About 3 years ago or more, I traded an older Itech 960 that was in great shape for a pair of Vaughn V3 7500 pads. These pads were in amazing shape and I have been using them ever since. I have been and am still very happy with them, except they are starting to get a little soft, but no holes, just some wear spots and scratches from use. Now I have been contacted by the guy and he would like to buy them back. They were his first pair of custom pads and would like them back for sentimental reasons. I only want the price to be fair, if I am able to find something else to play in.

What is my pair of V3 75000 worth?

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How old are they? After a certain age, most things, unless they are extremely desirable or rare, fetch between 8-25% of their original value after 5 years old, with the exception of desirable musical instruments. For example- a $1000 pair of pads with average use that are 6 years old  go between $80-250, sometimes higher depending on whether or not they are in excellent shape or had some desirable, collectible characteristics. Now if it was Grant Fuhr's pads he wore for one of his Cups that can be photo matched- that's different.

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Don't know if it helps, but I bought a pair of V2s 5 years ago now (2012) from the original owner who I believe bought them around 2006/7.

They were in extremely good shape other than missing one strap: I paid $250 (Canadian).

But of course, per SBR and Bunny's comments, beauty and value is in the eye of the beholder.

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After searching Kijiji in Ontario, for the V3 7500 the lowest price is at $150 and the highest $350.

I am hopping that this could be where people could post and get some appraisals.

I may have some other tests for you guys soon.

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2 hours ago, old G said:

After searching Kijiji in Ontario, for the V3 7500 the lowest price is at $150 and the highest $350.

I am hopping that this could be where people could post and get some appraisals.

I may have some other tests for you guys soon.

Love the idea of the thread, thanks for starting it 

 

I'm going to sell my gear at wide open auction on eBay. I'll post the results to help contribute 

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14 hours ago, TheGoalNet said:

Love the idea of the thread, thanks for starting it 

 

I'm going to sell my gear at wide open auction on eBay. I'll post the results to help contribute 

I am about to the point where I am going to post my old pads on ebay as well.  I don't think I have them priced too high but I do think the size and colors are going to make it hard to sell.

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If you are going to use Ebay, you can do an advanced search of completed listings to see if any V3's have sold recently and what the market is for them.  Timing is a consideration though as pads tend to fetch a little bit more closer to the fall and winter when more people are buying.  I have sold a lot of gear on Ebay over the years and this is what I've experienced.  What I do is decide on a fair price and put that as a "buy it now" price and then let that run for a couple weeks to a month.  If I don't get a hit, then I will relist it with the same buy it now price but then open it up to offers.

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I give an example- I paid $40 for a pair of Brian's Air Pak Midnight pads in decent condition. I am looking on eBay and saw something similar for $250 shipped. First of all- something stunk out loud as the seller claimed that they now have modern butterfly pads. Hmmm. These were definitely '90s pads. The pads were displayed with the outer rolls facing each other. Then I saw all of the toe trim damage. As cool as these pads are, I can't get myself to pay over $150 for them, basing them on the Air Pak I have that has the same damage.     

I could be a fool and passed on something cool and worthwhile, but these would only be worth $200 IF the toe trims were in perfect shape and the straps were in better condition. There was one mismatched strap. Now- if it were a set of good condition Brown, D&R or Bourdon/Jofas, I probably would pull the trigger. 

 

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On ‎19‎.‎3‎.‎2017 at 0:19 AM, jayluv54 said:

If you are going to use Ebay, you can do an advanced search of completed listings to see if any V3's have sold recently and what the market is for them.  Timing is a consideration though as pads tend to fetch a little bit more closer to the fall and winter when more people are buying.  I have sold a lot of gear on Ebay over the years and this is what I've experienced.  What I do is decide on a fair price and put that as a "buy it now" price and then let that run for a couple weeks to a month.  If I don't get a hit, then I will relist it with the same buy it now price but then open it up to offers.

I like your approach on this. Men, how I hate ebay auctions :$!

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No kidding.   Auctions are a pain.   Over the years I have made bids on lots of things, only to be outbid at the last second by $1.00, or less.   Most of the time, if you want to get something via auction, you need to be able to watch it down to the last minute.    Occasionally you will win something that no one else has bid on, but that is pretty rare, from my experience.    I almost always search for "buy-it-now" listings.   When I am selling something, I will search the completed listings to see what similar items sold for, or were listed for and didn't sell.    I will then create a "buy-it-now" listing for a price that is about the same as one that sold.    When I have followed that formula, I have been able to sell most of the items I have listed.    On several occasions, I was shocked that they sold within a couple hours.   When it comes to selling goalie gear, I will sometimes take it to Play-it-again-sports first to see what they are willing to give me, and what similar stuff is selling for.   If it is selling for $200 and they are willing to give me $80 for it, I may list it on Ebay for $130 plus $30 for shipping.   That way, the buyer gets a good deal, and I still make out pretty well.  

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Due to the time shift, I'm usually not able to watch the auction to end, so I go for "buy it now" or best offer. But to be honest, I like buy it now most - I buy only things I really want for myself and not just because of the price, so I do not want to miss the chance.

btw. in my opinion  for those pads price 200 - 300 USD (it depends on the wear and tear) is ok.

 

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On 3/18/2017 at 7:19 PM, jayluv54 said:

If you are going to use Ebay, you can do an advanced search of completed listings to see if any V3's have sold recently and what the market is for them.  Timing is a consideration though as pads tend to fetch a little bit more closer to the fall and winter when more people are buying.  I have sold a lot of gear on Ebay over the years and this is what I've experienced.  What I do is decide on a fair price and put that as a "buy it now" price and then let that run for a couple weeks to a month.  If I don't get a hit, then I will relist it with the same buy it now price but then open it up to offers.

I do something similar to this.  I usually set the buy it now as the price I would like to get and open the auction with a reserve that is the same as the buy it now.

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3 hours ago, Srsieve said:

No kidding.   Auctions are a pain.   Over the years I have made bids on lots of things, only to be outbid at the last second by $1.00, or less.   Most of the time, if you want to get something via auction, you need to be able to watch it down to the last minute.    Occasionally you will win something that no one else has bid on, but that is pretty rare, from my experience.    I almost always search for "buy-it-now" listings.   When I am selling something, I will search the completed listings to see what similar items sold for, or were listed for and didn't sell.    I will then create a "buy-it-now" listing for a price that is about the same as one that sold.    When I have followed that formula, I have been able to sell most of the items I have listed.    On several occasions, I was shocked that they sold within a couple hours.   When it comes to selling goalie gear, I will sometimes take it to Play-it-again-sports first to see what they are willing to give me, and what similar stuff is selling for.   If it is selling for $200 and they are willing to give me $80 for it, I may list it on Ebay for $130 plus $30 for shipping.   That way, the buyer gets a good deal, and I still make out pretty well.  

 

3 hours ago, mik said:

Due to the time shift, I'm usually not able to watch the auction to end, so I go for "buy it now" or best offer. But to be honest, I like buy it now most - I buy only things I really want for myself and not just because of the price, so I do not want to miss the chance.

btw. in my opinion  for those pads price 200 - 300 USD (it depends on the wear and tear) is ok.

 

In cases like this I find the best thing to do is use your very first bid to bid the most you're willing to spend on the product.  Let ebay do the automatic bidding for you.  It always bids the minimum amount to make sure you are the top bidder, it doesn't initially jack the price up to that bid. If you get beat then you don't spend more than you were originally willing to spend anyway.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

That is what I have done when I have participated in auctions, but on most occasions, someone usually out-bids me by the minimum amount at the last second.   So it is annoying when you lose an item by $1 because you couldn't watch it at the end.   

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5 hours ago, Srsieve said:

That is what I have done when I have participated in auctions, but on most occasions, someone usually out-bids me by the minimum amount at the last second.   So it is annoying when you lose an item by $1 because you couldn't watch it at the end.   

That's because their max bid was higher than yours.  Ebay did the same for them that it did for you.  It automatically bid you to the top.  Once you bid up to your max bid, if theirs is higher they get bid up to the next lowest max bid.  See what I mean?

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6 minutes ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

That's because their max bid was higher than yours.  Ebay did the same for them that it did for you.  It automatically bid you to the top.  Once you bid up to your max bid, if theirs is higher they get bid up to the next lowest max bid.  See what I mean?

I always figured if I was beaten out in a bidding war that they probably were prepared to spend a LOT more than I.  I go as high as I want to spend. Rarely, do I get my item, but I avoid buyer's remorse.

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7 minutes ago, bunnyman666 said:

I always figured if I was beaten out in a bidding war that they probably were prepared to spend a LOT more than I.  I go as high as I want to spend. Rarely, do I get my item, but I avoid buyer's remorse.

Yea that is something I do not always adhere to.  I have won a few things that made me think "why the fuck did I spend so much on this?  Idiot!"

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46 minutes ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

Yea that is something I do not always adhere to.  I have won a few things that made me think "why the fuck did I spend so much on this?  Idiot!"

It was BECAUSE I would over-spend and see itat Buy It Now $30 cheaper that I just stopped doing it! Had to 'splain plenty of over-priced purchases over the years! 

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17 hours ago, SaveByRichter35 said:

That's because their max bid was higher than yours.  Ebay did the same for them that it did for you.  It automatically bid you to the top.  Once you bid up to your max bid, if theirs is higher they get bid up to the next lowest max bid.  See what I mean?

That could be, however, in most cases, the last bid was placed seconds before the auction ended, which tells me that it was not automatic, but someone watching it and waiting until the last moment and "stealing it" by the lowest possible margin.   They probably would have done the same if my bid was $5.00 higher.  I have done the same thing when I happen to see an item that has a low bid against it, with less than an hour until the auction ends.   Instead of putting my bid in right away and driving up the price too early, I will just put it on a watch list, and have it remind me right before the auction ends.   With a minute or two to go, out bid the current bidder by $1 or so, and see what happens.  In many cases it has worked.  Of course there is always a price-point where no one will out bid you, but by then, you might as well just find one with a "buy-it-now" price and grab it without waiting.        

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12 minutes ago, Srsieve said:

That could be, however, in most cases, the last bid was placed seconds before the auction ended, which tells me that it was not automatic, but someone watching it and waiting until the last moment and "stealing it" by the lowest possible margin.   They probably would have done the same if my bid was $5.00 higher.  I have done the same thing when I happen to see an item that has a low bid against it, with less than an hour until the auction ends.   Instead of putting my bid in right away and driving up the price too early, I will just put it on a watch list, and have it remind me right before the auction ends.   With a minute or two to go, out bid the current bidder by $1 or so, and see what happens.  In many cases it has worked.  Of course there is always a price-point where no one will out bid you, but by then, you might as well just find one with a "buy-it-now" price and grab it without waiting.        

I get what your saying, I know how ebay works I have been using it for a long time.  

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20 hours ago, goalie said:

Good thread

I have a pair of Vaughn V6 vertical stitch. And a pair of CCM Eflex Pros.

Both only used 1 beer league season.

What are they worth?

 

Any pics? There are many factors, wear, colour, size, where you are located?

I like to use Kijiji for comparables.

 

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