ArdeFIN

Well there aren't too many possibilities here. Do you tuck or not? If you tuck then the chest part as a whole is just a bit too long or tall. My Brown was first going to my friend but he had just the same problem with it that you have with yours. He described it like the chest is making a bubble, arching away from chest. He also tucks like I do. I didn't take any chances with the unit and cut a row and a half of the padding away from the bottom and it's been working very nicely. So first thing to do is confirm the right length! I'd do this with pants on too but no shirt so you can observe what's happening when you go down to BF.

Those starting knots are a pita unless you dismantle the whole glove or perimeter atleast. And Warrior is the worst in this view with very tight binding and perimeter lacing. Still looking good with your Warrior glove.

Hey that looks very nice! I see you changed the style in the mid of the midlane there? Is it in purpose? You can do a slight re-tightening or equalling the laces after use or two as the skatelace has some slack in it. Yes those Warrior holes are very tight for the skate lace. Just did a G2Pro lacing with single T and extended holes and it was still with some extra work. Just to say, original Warrior style is very dense with a lot of webloops and with skatelace there is even less visibility through than with normal cord. With forementioned G2 I left one webloop away and it came out very nice. Didn't find a picture of my first project glove that was G2Pro too, there I left 2 loops away from original and that with extra thin cord made the pocket look like it wasn't really there. But never did any puck go through, not even close. The puck is still very big when you compare it to your glove pocket webbing. Edit: found that picture. It is an open pocket It wasn't that thin of a cord that I remembered. I've used even thinner since, that looks like normal 4mm size.

Had to add this one too The lacing in the middle is done with single lace but it would work a lot better with two different laces, one for each "U"-turn. Then I could tighten up the inner one and give some slack for the thumb side lace as it determines the thumb plastic and protection positioning and affects the glove operation too. I don't understand the design idea behind this lacing but it's difficult to modify as it goes through all the layers. Inside (palm-thumb) jenpro is the most difficult to cover two holes and make new ones next to them and that covering jenpro tab is just where it gets a heck of beating from pucks. (You can see the loose loop in the picture above is the one next to the thumb. The other loop only goes through plastic but not jenpro for some reason) This project will have to take a rest as the T needs some new jenpro and I don't have big enough part. And also my supplier is waiting for shipment to arrive. I'll have my time and take a look at one CCM Eflex3 blocker if I can redo the Warrior palm installation. And some repairs too.

There was some difficulties putting the inner lace and get everything lined up. Or not everything, but the holes for the lace on every layer. Oh well the problematic layer is the inside against palm. On the picture you may notice some pulling on the left side and what cannot be seen is that the lace is routed very different from the original atleast from what I remeber about that and had a few pictures. But with pictures before and all I just couldn't get it done the way I would've liked. The glove and break are working very well though so I'm just battling myself to leave it be. Here's one from the palm on outside, the lacing is not as it should, lined with break to edge of the glove. This also affect the perimeter lacing or the other way around as there is a huge shift with material and holes for the lace. It was so far off that it looked like there was two parts that weren't even meant to be together. And there they are. Here's one of the cuff attached. I like the Subzero theme a lot, simple yet it "has something going on"... One from the above. And fixed the strap, only thing giving the fix out is clear white thread that's not smudged yet. Also added one ½" layer of soft LD foam in the cuff plate as the original HD foam had been flattened and there was some extra space inside and looked a bit floppy. Now the covering jenpro is tighter and fit. One last picture showing that there is a bit of a problem getting all that finger area material in. It might have something to do with the small slice of 4mm foam I added to finger area. But the whole finger plastic seems somewhat too big and it's the original one without any modifications. It's being pulled byt the lacing overnight to see if it's only jenpro had shrinken a bit and could be returned to original state. If not I'm just have to cut a few millimeters of the edge to make it fit. It'll most probably last longer on the edge if it's not overly tight there.

It actually is only ½" on the shin and another ½" on the thighrise that makes the 1" total difference there. The G5 should be 1" taller. But also the boot seems longer on G4 than G5. Well Warrior pads don't seem to shrink over time

Once again so into the doing of it that I forgot to take any pictures. It is going back together, I got the plastic done and it formed out very nicely except for the cup shape at the wrist. It didn't like any of my attempts with heat gun so I just used a torch to melt the plastic a bit and then used flat pliers to mold the the soft plastic. Looks awful but should be fine at that spot. Here's few pictures, one about the palm strap that didn't have enough space to tighten around my skinny hand and the velcro on the other end had torn some binding. Now it's 10mm farther and the other end is an inch shorter and doubled up to form a tab. The only spot that needed jenpro on this one is the classic boot of the T. Binding hide quite a bit of the added part but that's not too bad. Should do the job. Some threads were worn out and those were re-sewn for optical reasons. There has been some issues with the rebuild process and those will be reported here tomorrow or so and with pictures.

Then a small finger stall operation to give more room for my long fingers. Remove a stiching and replace it further. My fingers just reach the edge of the jenpro and now there is enough room there. Brians seems to make short'ish finger areas as I have a Zero G blocker which is with short finger space too. Othervise there is ample room for the hand. Same from inside. Notice the green geltec slice there protecting index finger. One picture of the new thumb plasting being made. It isn't 100% straight copy from original once again but extended a bit there and cut shorter there.

Continuing with the thumb area, again an interesting design flaw. The thumb loop from the palm view point, and next one from outside. So the thumb loop should come through that neoprene fabric to make a straight way out. Not that much to say or show, make one hole and cut that thumb loop a bit so it can be tightened enough when going through that neoprene which will limit the loop motion from now on.

Some minor things that needed attention: Wrist strap was broken some day, or the buckle to be exact. Fixed with nice and quick "tie a new buckle with strap" to the end of the original strap. Now it's taken apart for washing so it's easy to also attach the buckle to the strap as it is meant to be. Thumbnail has driven it's way through fabric, foam and to the plastic which has stood up The round Brians logo on the outside is also gone and needs something to cover the hole. Fabric isn't easily replaced as it's sewn around and covered with binding also. So take it apart as much as necessary and get the job done properly. New fabric includes soft foam and I didn't replace that HD foam. I don't think it's needed there, hopefully I'm right about this one. Fabric is from an old CCM or Bauer thigh pad and feels nice to finger as much as it's needed to. Rest will stay at place when the lacing is done. Some holes for the laces still are to be done when I find the right places, there were interesting design in the placement there. Brians logo had to go, I was planning for a B-star logo to replace but it didn't work out so I adopted the ice shards theme somewhat and it is now like that. Few holes are to be done here too. The two originals were hidden under the black spike and were way too close to pocket side and thumb, pulling the plastic and jenpros over each other at the pocket edge. That should be corrected with new hole placement later on.

Had some projects in between but nothing so fancy I'd write up something of them. Now I thought it would be nice-to-know basis of a Brians Subzero glove. There are some differences to Gnetik 5.0 glove but except for the skin it's very much the same structurally. Subzero is a different angle and the pocket style is a bit different to Gnetik but that mostly comes from the break angle too. Overall feeling of the glove is very Brians-ish which I like a lot. There are those finger loops for pinky and thumb that I need to have (Gnetik5.0 doesn't). Those loops kind of mold the glove to my hand. Basic issues are there for a long time Pro glove, plastics have some damage, jenpro and some stichings are worn and laces are worn too. Not surpricingly the insides of the glove are in a good shape with usual filth and smell but nothing is worn to mention. Few outer velcros are to be changed which implies the glove has been dried somewhat constantly. I'm personally biased towards the Vaughn gloves a lot, and also the Simmons one is very much what I like. Hopefully I can add this Subzero to my glove rotation too as I've liked Brians gloves earlier, I have Gnetik5.0 and DX2 on the racks. This one has already been dismantled, washed and some reparations are done. Quite excited about it. Brians gloves are sort of rarity here in Finland. Those who have'em tend to keep'em and new gloves are quite expensive.

Is "trimmed down" meaning thinner also or just a slight less in dimensions? I were in between for the shoulder floaters being streamlined in G5 but then again I had no big issues with GT floaters interfering with my mask so I believe that GT2 floaters are better compared to GT which leads to zero issues with them. And getting more thickness and coverage too while I don't think it'll give me a single more save with that extra area on floaters. So to get that 1% more coverage GT2 is the way to go? Seems like nothing is reasoning for the G5 instead.

I'm in a pursuit for a secondary/backup c/a to take place of my Brown when it needs some update or service. I'm tempted to Warrior as I have good experience from GT pro and the topics items are further improved from that unit. I'm towards GT2 of the two but what are the real differences there? Shoulder floaters are different and sternum plate. Color is different, black is cool. Price is the same for G5 SR+ and GT2 sr today so do I have any reason to choose G5 over GT2?

Olkaa hyvä. (=You're welcome) Thought I'd add a few pictures of a floating T here too. Someone was wondering how they should do the boot with floating T. Well it's just how nice you want it to look. Make a web as simple as possible, it's actually only the one seam between the sides that needs something else than following those rules you had. Or, you might go with "single lace" around the whole pocket. Begin as usual from either side, extend the lace in the boot area with a simple knot or what is preferred: (I wouldn't suggest to use one lace for the whole job, that would make some 5 meters of lace...) Follow the rules around the whole T If you'd see both sides at once you might notice the lace going sort of backwards on the other side. Only the last column at the lip end of T you have to a little time and copy the other side backwards. And done! Did this one a while ago and didn't take any pictures while doing it but hopefully you get the idea from these pictures. Skatelace is the ideal choice for a floating T as it has some give in itself added to webbing so the pocket will look pretty normal. But when a puck will enter with force the pocket will take the energy to flex and the puck is sort of swallowed deep into the pocket. For me I don't see floating any better over the other choices but it's not unuseable either. Maybe it would be said that any well made pocket style will work if the glove itself works for you.

Then we get to the second cord. It goes through with the same ruleset as the first one but with the addition of crossing over the first cord, a new rule to remember. Continuing from the previous here is the second cord done. The crossing over is very simple once around and for simple setup I went with forward and around here too. It doesn't do much for the aesthetic in this simple webbing just there has to be some lockdown when the cords go across each other. Looks simple and nice, and definitely can see if the puck is in. Another one from the inside of the pocket. Just a short return to the CCM style that was on the glove before. There is a bit more to do with this style as there are a lot more around the cord points. But the rules apply all the way. There was a picture of a completed webbing in the Simmons refurbish topic in case someone wants to go and see. I think there was one about the Simmons original webbing too, it was quite complicated so I allowed myself to go with these easier systems.

Ok, now I took the time to take some pictures and take apart my Simmons glove mid lane. From the beginning, atleast two different ways to start. There is also gloves that have sort of two starting holes. With those I suggest to take good pictures before taking it apart and copy the beginning atleast. Or punch a new mid hole and go on. Yes, mid lane is usually if not always started from the lip and towrds boot. Still there are possibilities, this Simmons was done with "single cord" meaning there was a knot in the beginning and only one cord run through the mid lane. That is a bit more effort as the cord is very long in the beginning. And should any mistakes happen, fixing them requires a lot of dismantling. So heres a few tip to the job, in the beginning.... You can use loop style Or once through Then we are in the rules again. Decide how you want it and work regarding. In the picture above there is "CCM style" midlane in progress. It didn't work too well with my cord which is similar to gear cord but without wax so it's sloppy. Gear cord would support the mid lane to stay open and rigid. So to change it a bit I use the "Varusteverstas" -style which is more simple yet very good alternative and easy to do. Main difference between the two is that there is only one loop around when coming out from the hole. And again remember that it also makes difference whether you go forward and around or backward and around. I made the run with inside out on the holes and forward around when changing the side. You can also do this without changing the cords side every second hole! In this method it's easiest to run the cord straight through and then continue with the next. Cord can be quite tight as there isn't much of a need for the cord to be loose.

Thanks. I don't have anything to publish yet for the middle part, and ATM I have no double T catchers to work on either. Funny as it is I have three catchers waiting but all are single T models. But I'll return here right when I get something ready.

4. Decicion made, I'll go from outside towards in with the webbing and at the perimeter loop forward only with out extra twisting or such. Running the lace flat and around will give the aesthetic looks again. 5. Now at the perimeter side going straight through the next thing is to decide the other direction, you could make it go from inside out through the loops if you'd like but that will make a little if not at all visible change to anything. So for easy process I selected the same way as when coming towards perimeter. One down and one up and again one down, looking good. Repeat the same process until ready! All the decicions are made now you just need to follow them. 6. Final! (foam inside for a white background) 7. The only new rule needed and in this glove and style used only once per side is the end looping. I had two loops running all the way and at the end all the loops should be sort of tied together. Easy and simple solution to do it by aligning the loops over each other and lace through as one. The picture isn't very good but hopefully you get the idea. Actually I did this one in backwards direction by looking at the picture But it looks sleek and will work properly. One thing with skate lacing is that it usually is pretty loose after lacing and needs some tightening, it's not necessary in this project but it will look even more consistent and detailed. To repeat myself, this is how I do it for skate lace pocket and in this project only. This style of lacing is just one of many possibilities. Some manufacturers have their own style like Brians, which is quite a lot of different from this one and still it looks very much the same. Hopefully some of you get the needed inspiration and get to do it yourself. Take your time and be patient when doing it. And remember that it is easily taken apart to redo. This one side of the pocket took me about 30 minutes to complete with photos and thinking a bit for this textorial part too. So with good preparation and everything at hand it'll be a swift job to do. Mid lane in the double T has a few differencies from the sides but is a bit easier to do.

Doing the pocket re-lacing with almost every glove that I refurbish I thought I should take a few pictures and write a short story about how I do it. When you start and you have the pocket still laced, first take some pictures of the pocket, both sides etc. So you can check afterwards if it won't work out. Next you try to take those old laces off in one or two pieces so you can measure the needed length for the new lace. Add some length (4" or 10cm atleast, double if uncertain) to the measurement just to make it sure it's going to be enough. Sometimes the old lace is worn so badly that you just can't get it off without cutting it to bits and pieces and it's not a big problem but you need to take a little extra length on the new lace. (Educated estimate for needed lace per side of the pocket is 250cm) Then you need the new lace, scissors, paracord needle will help, pliers maybe. 1. Select where to start the lacing and in the picture it's already done, push the end of the lace through an eyelet and make a basic single knot and pull the knot inside the glove as is in the second picture. 2. Make rules for yourself! How will you go through the eyelets from or towards inside. After an eyelet will you go under the lace or over, straight ahead or make it around the lace before going forward. The choices are so many that it'll help you to make it consistent with certain simple rules. At this point it is easy to try it by lacing one or two rows to see how it goes. If the result isn't approvable, redo with different rules. I did this project with skate lace, it adds the flatness of the lace into the game. If needed for visual appearance it's easy to keep things flat with pulling the last bit lace flat between fingers (in picture) and then pull the rest of the lace through (eyelet). If still twisted take your time to pull in and out until flat. That is very difficult to fix afterwards so do it right in the first place. Or ignore the flatness. Nylon cord isn't problematic this way, but it'll work easier if you try to keep it from getting twisted. I got 330cm laces for this one which is about 100cm of extra work to do. Will save you a lot of time if you double up the lace and pull it through loops as pictured below. Eyelets won't work with this trick unfortunately. 3. Follow the rules and repeat. Here I used the following steps. From inside out through eyelet and under the lace to the next eyelet. This T style goes when you have same amount of eyelets in the spine as loops for the pocket in the perimeter. In this glove there are 7 of both. Here you also decide how many eyes you will have in the pocket net. Skate lace will yield to a tight webbing with only few eyes in a row while nylon cord would allow more eyes to the web. The we use to catch is quite a big thing so not very tight webbing is needed. Ofcourse the looser the lacing is the more it will give. But the puck is still quite big. The pattern is consistent and easy to follow and do. Skate lace is a more demanding than nylon cord. Now we have first row or column ready and we need a new set of rules. Inside out through the loops and the same at loop of the perimeter.

Few updates to my gear. New skates, Bauer S29 size 8,5D. Had Vapor X700 8EE before but felt there was a bit too much room in toe area and wasn't able to tighten up enough. And with too much force it gave me bad lace bite kind of effect. Notices with no ice time on S29s yet. The fit lengthvise is about the same with 0,5 size up from EE to D fit. Width is different naturally, and with one baking in store I got the width to fit me very well. We were prepared to make a small pot extension to the outer edge but that seems to be done with baking and doesn't need an extra force. Rest of it remains until few skates with them. And one more to mention the steel size on 8EE is 8 but on 8,5EE it's 9. 8,5D still goes with size 8 steel which saved me some money as I bought two sets of size 8 steel in the spring. 4ice is a local producer, for about 20 ice times and one sharpening I'm very happy with the quality and how the taller steel works for me. New throat protector Vaughn VPC8000. I wasn't completely happy with the soft foam to protect against puck so I took the plastic/nylon parts from my old Reebok/CCM TC Pro and attached them here. Now I have more protection against puck and a comfortable throat+neck protection against cut wounds. I removed the soft heart padding as Brown has that area quite thick already and it would've become obstrusive with the added padding. Only one skate yet with it but feels very much the same compared to my old Reebok but a bit cooler as this one doesn't have the heart nor the back plates which I didn't need as I trust my Brown has enough protection to those areas. Edit: first time with S29 on ice and I'm happy. I still have to adjust the tightness and the ankle area is forming to my feet better with few more ice times. For scientific interest I routed the lace from outside through the eyelets on the other skate and from inside on the other. That is said to change things but with so new skates I didn't feel any difference of it yet.

This topic was interesting from the beginning. Would be super cool if someone had the possibility to test similar sets of blades with different edges in a subsequent test run to get the real difference. How does the shuffle go, benefits on kicking around in BF etc. This sharpening has the crucial balance in between stance/shuffle moves and BF. And it's about the playing style involved here too. Then we have the profile. How much does different profiles have to do with goaltending? I came from Bauer Vapor player skates with no profiling and goalie skates were easily chosen Vapor in the same size and fits well. In the first few ices as goalie I remember it was sooo difficult to just skate around because of the flat and long blade. I got used to it pretty quickly as being in front of the goal, skating is not that much of a matter. But I always wanted to have move curved profile. Then I got new blades with a lot steeper curve and how I love those. Oh yeah! But I didn't feel any change playing in goalie position, still have the (moderate) kicks and grip, can shuffle around, have equal balance in stance ie. Well I'm a lot more confident going out of crease to play that loose puck so a little change there.

Now that is some clever thinking!

Any news for availability? My Reebok TC Pro is falling apart, the fabrics are EOL so no use to repair but add new fabric which I don't think gonna happen. I need a new one and Aegis would be a solid choice. Tried a Bauer Supreme at the shop yesterday and there was like no protection against puck only the Kevlar neck and some clavicle padding which was ok ish feeling. Hate to spend 60 euros to something that needs to be modified from the beginning. @TheGoalNet

Ok, quickly checked the CAD EUR rate and got about 170 for the pants. The shipping is soo expensive these days, you'd think when there is not that much human traffic the product shipments would be the same but seems they've got a good extra to shipping prices. That's counting up to quite a lot for pants so maybe I'll just go with my coming new Warriors. They're in a good old wide shape too. Good that you got them fast for yourself as it seems the smaller sizes were sold out in a rush.

Oh man I should've gotten a pair in the same order How much did it cost in Euros with shipping?