Chenner29

Here's some video examples. Holding your edges as your feet widen out is tough on your hips, make sure you get the appropriate prep time in The method is really obvious in the three clips

Get comfortable drifting back into a wider stance, push out your gloves and hinge at the hips as they come closer. Widening out while holding your edges is going let you load and push off to either side once they commit Hinging at the hips and pushing out your gloves is going to take away any vertical net space Become proficient with the backwards C-cut into lateral shuffle and/or butterfly push transition, I see a lot of beer leaguers struggle with this If player cuts to your right, C cut back with your right leg while loading your left to push

A few high percentage answers Bad sharpening, get them resharpened. New steel needs a couple extra passes. Uneven edges. Have your sharpener check edges using a leveler tool. If they don't have one take your skates somewhere else and never go back. CCM 9370 steel should be 3mm wide; narrower than the Graf G50 4mm. If you put identical sharpenings on both skates, it would feel sharper on your Graf. Fresh blades = a flatter feel than what you may be used to, unless you regularly profiled your old steel. You may not be used to the amount of steel under you In response to your concern in bold, I think this is the most likely issue. Your old steel was probably rounded out/pitched forward over years of sharpening Make sure your runners are firmly bolted/screwed/dialed in Any combination of the above One less likely but possible answer Steel is bent, look down the runner from either the front or back. You can use a credit card and slide it along the edge to check for straightness. If it is bent this should be covered by factory warranty.

Hi This is actually really relevant to the thread in general, if it's OK with you I will merge your post there.

In case there's any debate, the shot 100% folded his T in Snapping the glove down and forward as he did towards the end of the sequence is a perfectly fine solution for containing pucks in front. It looks weird to us because most guys will just catch it clean I think his positioning for the most part is fine, he's got some pressure off to his left as the forechecker is being held off by his defenseman. At this level, a hard low pass from the puck carrier toward the opposite corner is still a dangerous play and he's protecting himself from that, the winger can easily get a stick on it for a tip This puck going in probably has more to do with his glove positioning, from the angle above it looks like the catching surface on his glove isn't completely square to the shot. If he was able to present more palm to puck he probably would have gotten this Goes to show you how much details matter at this level Also very possible this was one of those 1-in-a-thousand shots that rises a lot quicker than expected

Sometimes there's a tag on the backside of the backplate - the underside of where the fight strap attaches Mine say "-1" These are close, but protection IMO isn't quite there. Took quite a few arm stingers/bruises in the two weeks I had the Bauer. I'd be very surprised if the CCM isn't the most used unit at the pro level IMO, any time I make a purchase for anything "second best" - my first choice becomes available within a week Just be patient and wait for an AB18Pro. Rest of these options are poor substitutes

Just nab a shot of a broken buckle from here and send it to the shop

A couple years ago, guys were getting crazy payouts on their 90s era gear in one of the vintage goalie gear groups on Facebook. Like, over $500 on Koho 500s

Sounds like the kid wants to get cut Seriously? When I was a kid I never chirped my coaches

IMO get Shawn's take, it's his product and he's infinitely more familiar with his product than I am

I don't know what mask you had pictured, but Otny does this stock with some of their masks. Note you're not drilling and screwing the strap into the shell, you're drilling a hole to accommodate the hardware to secure the straps

All good on necroing the thread, IMO better than 10 different people starting 10 different threads on the subject You got more time out of your Passau bag than me; I had the V1. The tension strap across the chest broke within 2 weeks, and the shoulder strap broke within a month. Shower accessory bag inexplicably shredded apart some time in between. I didn't ask for a replacement, but they sent one anyway. I told the rep all I needed was a couple feet of black waxed thread as I'm pretty good with a sewing awl and could have easily managed this kind of repair. They still sent a new warranty bag and asked for my broken one back at my cost. Being out shipping on what was clearly a warranty/quality control issue was very upsetting, and IIRC I wasn't the only user having the same problems. To their credit, when I expressed my displeasure they ended up "allowing" me to keep both. I repaired the broken bag on my own and used it for a couple more months until the Pacific Rink bag came out. I ended up selling both at a total combined loss and bought the Pacific Rink goalie bag, haven't looked back since. Never really considered Passau gear ever because of this experience, and really don't understand the love affair people on GGSU have for the brand.

Magic Eraser is an abrasive (melamine foam), so basically think of it like sandpaper. You're not just stripping away puck marks, but also a microscopic top layer of the jenpro. RE: the Essan method - you are correct Goof Off contains a number of chemicals, including but not limited to some that are active ingredients in commercial paint thinners: ethylbenzene, acetone, xylene These chemicals are gonna dry out your Jenpro. What he's recommending is probably just as bad as Magic Eraser. I'd guess repeated use is going to accelerate the process to making your pads develop spiderweb deterioration like this: I think an truly reputable gear repair shop would recommend a mix of mild soap, water, a rag, and some elbow grease to clean your gear. It won't get as clean as either of the above methods. But if long-term durability is top of mind, this is the way to go.

Not really, boot channel is about 1/2" deeper than the rest of the bottom of the pad Shin length should be the same across both lines but i took another 1/2" off the thigh rise due to how much stiffer these are above the knee. I have no complaints moving to a shorter shin - been in a 33" since Koho 560 through EFlex 4 and dropped to a 32" when the 20.1 came out Awesome, gonna try taking these out to stick time next week. Got the go ahead to do some light goalie stuff (no RVH or anything crazy)

Px3s arrived about a month ago. I haven't been able to skate yet as I've been rehabbing an injury Slow work day today so I thought I'd post some SxS pics with random thoughts. Fronts - Both pads are base size 32. 20.2s on the left are +3, Px3 is +2.5 Px3 is slightly in the foreground and the tops haven't really curved yet so, but its really weird to me that Lefevre's "flex" option still seems to present stiffer and squarer Backs - Left side on picture below shows the right leg of the Px3 Right side is the 20.2 Notice the difference in the FRS Boots - I realize now I didn't get a very good picture of this. 20.2 is back on the left here. Notice the cord binding the pad veers off to the right, I'm guessing this is to help keep the inside portion of the boot bound in place and flat. Px3 has a discernable concavity to the boot channel. 20.2 is pretty flat I think there's benefits re: having a thicker instep on the boot when you're in the butterfly Thigh Rise This was kind of marketed as the killer feature this year 20.2 measures around 2-3/8" thick Px3 slimmed it down to roughly 1-5/8" Both the outer roll and the thigh rise taper down as you get to the top of the pad As you get closer to the below-knee break we get back to standard outer roll thickness Sliding Surface Mistakes were made when ordering (see the white nylon calf wrap on the Px3 on left) This SxS pic really shows you how much slimmer the top of the thigh is on Px3 Sidebar, the PPF on the 20.2 here is a year old and still going strong Notice the Px3 flares out at the bottom of the shin and is noticeably thicker along the boot instep Gloves Another mistake here, I forgot to change to skate lace. Single T on Px3 (top) vs double T on 20.2 (below) Either the single T or the traditional cord seems to hold the T shape better

Unsubstantiated idea based on personal opinion and some personal experience here. Let me start off by saying I'm not totally sure I agree on the Fit1=Sm Fit2=Med Fit3=Lg statement. I normally wear a Large pant (34" waist); my Fit 2 CCM HPG14As fit pretty much identical to every other Large sized pant I've worn. I have not been able to fit in a Medium pant since I was in high school. My last pair of pants was a custom Vaughn pro stock with medium length thighs. @ZeroGravitas fits in a retail Medium and found my Fit 2 CCMs too big. He doesn't like food as much as me I believe the numbers designate an in-between for the standard size markers, so if we were to rank in order from small to large: Small - Fit 1 - Medium - Fit 2 - Large - Fit 3 - XL - Fit 4 So maybe a more accurate descriptor is that a Fit 1 is a "small Medium" but labeling it as a "Fit 1" makes it less confusing. Option 2 Since the NHL started measuring the players to get goalies in more form-fitting gear, the Fit system may also be what they settled on. ie. if we take the Bauer pant size chart below, there's a 4 inch difference in one size. Maybe this new system is a way to shave off 2 inches to get a more precise fit, so your sizes go from say 32-34, 34-36, 36-38 etc. Option 3 Outside of the + sizing on the thigh length as @Teezle mentioned, also possible that the smaller sizes (Fit 1 and 2) are *shorter* in the thighs than normal

Re: SkinFx Going through my chat history with Mark: Deposit paid 11/2021 Mask delivered from Pro's Choice 6/2/2022 Mask design approved 7/14/2022 Mask shipped 7/17/2022 My experience: he takes a while and needs constant reminders to get a design done, but the work is good. Note that he only lays up the design, he cannot do any digital art for you from scratch.

Pro paddle sizes are wonky because they could be ordering something like a 25 3/16" paddle from the manufacturer and none of us would be the wiser. Heel shape also affects the measurement Based on the picture provided by the seller, it looks to me like they extend an imaginary line from the bottom line of the shaft straight down to the heel as such If I duplicate that with my 25" Warrior, I come up with 26.5" on the nose

How else would you know what kinda pad you're wearing

Many pros are using a heck of a lot more than 1" on their toe ties, but you do you Forgot to suggest that you run your knee elastic tight so your knee stays in place. Loosen everything else. I'd go as far as getting rid of the prof strap, IMO you really don't need it unless you're falling off the side of the block. Tight boot strap is going to restrict the pad from shifting forward, which we want in your scenario Here's a better example than the ascii art I gave above of what I'm talking about. It's basic trigonometry Your shin is variable (a) and your skate boot is variable (b). Variable (c) is the pad itself, we can get it to fit by letting it flow further out Where (a) and (c) meet is ideally center of the knee block.

Seller's ad shows he measured it this way: NHL rulebook shows they regulate sticks this way:

I'd actually advise on the contrary Loosening the toe laces, leg channel, prof strap will let the toe box drop forward on the skate and should help with getting the knee to land properly If the pads are 1/2" too tall in the shin and we tighten everything up, we are bringing the boot break of the pad directly on top of the skate, which is part of the problem in the first place. Bad ascii art to illustrate Shin to pad (loose) || \\ vs Shin to shin (tight) || ||

Take a Sharpie and turn them into G6s, obviously

I charge $50/hour for rooting out fake gear, where should I send the invoice? Did your buddy sharpie the pads for clout (embarassing) or did he receive them that way?

Professionally moddded with Sharpie marker