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Reebok 18K 580 Relace


ThatCarGuy
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With certain things on the horizon I wanted to get back into using well built 580s and since ccm seems to struggle with that, I picked up this reebok for $50. Upon arrival I noticed the palm foam was bunching up and way too tight. The solution?

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Top to bottom relace. I have a few planned changes that I’ll show as the thread progresses. Below is the palm foam bunched up. 

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17 minutes ago, ZeroGravitas said:

The 18K came in 580? What store had this SMU?!?

Quote

As Dibiase mentioned in the Goalie Talk sessions with Total Goalie, the 18K glove comes stick with Reebok’s 590 break, whereas P4 orders can also opt for a 580 break. To understand the differences, be sure to check out InGoal’s article from the July issue. And for more on the 18K lines, check out Total Goalies Sneak Peak videos from earlier 2012:

https://ingoalmag.com/news/reebok-review-p4-innovations-extend-into-reebok-18k-models/

 

Looks like the good retailers knew about this. :P 

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2 hours ago, ZeroGravitas said:

The 18K came in 580? What store had this SMU?!?

I was surprised too! No complaints here though since the internals aren’t much different from the EF5 580 I had. Slightly lower quality plastics and probably cheaper foams but feels all the same. 
 

@coopaloop1234 since the original barcode tags are still on this glove it turns out it’s a custom 18k somehow

Edited by ThatCarGuy
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Before I start punching holes in the plastics and foams I decided to just do a standard full relace and see how the glove closes.
So far what I’ve learned is that everything in the glove was off by a hole causing the foam to bunch up and the break to buckle. In addition to that the tee plastic on the thumb side had slide down, wedging itself right in the middle of the thumb tee break.

Overall the glove was built like a heap and even a standard relace should fix a ton. As I put this glove further back together I’ll add to the thread. 
Forgot to take pics before taking the glove apart so I just have the listing picture  

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I didn’t have the glove more than 10 minutes before pulling the laces out of it it felt so broken. 

Edited by ThatCarGuy
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Glove is relaced but still feels off. Looking at the shape of it I’m really starting to think this was a defective glove with 580 tee and cuff but 590 everything else. The palm bulge was super common on earlier 590s and the overall shape screams 590. Might need to fully pull it apart again and see if there’s any identification on the cuff foam

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1 hour ago, ThatCarGuy said:

Yup one of the tags I overlooked says GM18K Custom

I don't think it is Monkey...they seldom stock SMU stuff. Source for Sports, maybe?

Plus CCM/Reebok uses "GM" as a prefix for their catchers - see below.

GM.png.976fbb741a3fd1a6ab773f76845547df.png

 

Edited by ZeroGravitas
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I have to say I don’t think it’s a 580 at the end of the day.
 

I could be wrong but I think there has to be a discussion. I’m not very familiar with 18k gloves but I’m really familiar with 580s and I don’t see it. I think the “Custom” comes from whatever retailer that ordered it. I think the “stock” 18Ks were white/red, white/blue, white/black  

****I corrected myself, GM did make  a 580 in the 18k. I had stated that I thought it was a different Reebok model, (XLT).  

E6EBB4FA-40E0-42AD-BA65-25CAB2A0DBE5.jpeg

Edited by RedX
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2 hours ago, RedX said:

I have to say I don’t think it’s a 580 at the end of the day.
 

I could be wrong but I think there has to be a discussion. I’m not very familiar with 18k gloves but I’m really familiar with 580s and I don’t see it.

I mean really all the glove is missing to be a 580 is the tee bend and the pinky finger curl. It still catches and feels the same on the hand as a 580

Edited by ThatCarGuy
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5 hours ago, ThatCarGuy said:

Whatcha got there?

Teehee hee~

4 hours ago, RedX said:

****I corrected myself, GM did make  a 580 in the 18k. I had stated that I thought it was a different Reebok model, (XLT).  

E6EBB4FA-40E0-42AD-BA65-25CAB2A0DBE5.jpeg

Wow, nice find! Very cool to see this blast from the past. I was wrong about GM not being the source.

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If you see through my glove repair topics it's almost certain that the thumb side of the padding has the lace holes mismatched to the rest of the parts.

When you compare the holes, check that the break lines match on padding, palm and jenpro layers. Then try to find all of the holes that match through all layers and then proceed to make new holes where required. I try to avoid making new holes to surface materials at all. And almost always have succeeded with only making new holes to padding layer and plastics.

Is the thumb side plastic still in one piece?? 

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1 hour ago, ArdeFIN said:

If you see through my glove repair topics it's almost certain that the thumb side of the padding has the lace holes mismatched to the rest of the parts.

When you compare the holes, check that the break lines match on padding, palm and jenpro layers. Then try to find all of the holes that match through all layers and then proceed to make new holes where required. I try to avoid making new holes to surface materials at all. And almost always have succeeded with only making new holes to padding layer and plastics.

Is the thumb side plastic still in one piece?? 

Thank you so much for the help! I’m away for the weekend but as soon as I get home I’ll pull the glove back apart. Surprisingly yes the thumb plastic is still one piece 

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Thought I'd pick an example of making new holes and found one from the Opt1k 9.0 topic. This is a good example of how to mess up closure and operation generally.

And with these re-alignments it became really good. Even with added padding layer.

DSC_0760_6x8.jpg.bb0af768b4b670645331249

One thing to take of when making measurements for new holes, remember to mark them when glove is shut and check again when wide open. There will be extra material in break area when wide open as the palm layer is "stretched" when glove is closed and if you only measure and make holes with glove open it will propably be unable to close at all. 

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On 9/9/2022 at 2:10 PM, ThatCarGuy said:

It feels right on the hand but certainly doesn’t look right

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For now the only lacing pattern I changed was the thumb side where I added a hole so I could make the heel of the glove use less lace. 

The overall shape looks different if you compare to todays 580 perimeter. Fingerside is way short towards the T. Was @coopaloop1234 new Axis 2 gear in the New gear topic where there was a 580.

Other than that this looks 580; break line is close to wrist and lot of similarity to 590 in the perimeter shape.

For the T shape and closure, any T can be made to close like 580. You only need to add length to the finger side plastic and shorten the thumb side. That'll force the T to fold towards thumb. And when you want to fix T closure to be straigth do the opposite. Only 5mm would already do the magic.

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1 hour ago, ArdeFIN said:

The overall shape looks different if you compare to todays 580 perimeter. Fingerside is way short towards the T. Was @coopaloop1234 new Axis 2 gear in the New gear topic where there was a 580.

Other than that this looks 580; break line is close to wrist and lot of similarity to 590 in the perimeter shape.

For the T shape and closure, any T can be made to close like 580. You only need to add length to the finger side plastic and shorten the thumb side. That'll force the T to fold towards thumb. And when you want to fix T closure to be straigth do the opposite. Only 5mm would already do the magic.

I think part of the reason the fingers look short is because there’s no pinky curl like most 580s have 

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21 hours ago, ArdeFIN said:

The overall shape looks different if you compare to todays 580 perimeter. Fingerside is way short towards the T. Was @coopaloop1234 new Axis 2 gear in the New gear topic where there was a 580.

Other than that this looks 580; break line is close to wrist and lot of similarity to 590 in the perimeter shape.

For the T shape and closure, any T can be made to close like 580. You only need to add length to the finger side plastic and shorten the thumb side. That'll force the T to fold towards thumb. And when you want to fix T closure to be straigth do the opposite. Only 5mm would already do the magic.

That was @ZeroGravitas's new set. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Don't try to stretch anything but make them all properly even. The plastics will keep everything in shape and laces hold the layers together. Seems that you have the pocket end of the break messed up in some way and it is now rolling over itself. 

This is the area I've had a fight with most of the gloves I've done so far. It's a result of use and needs variety of tricks as far as I know. And unfortunately I can't give any proper advice that would do miracles here.

If you have a picture of the padding layer that would help. Atleast I might be able to point you the possible problem areas.

Edit: Uh you had the padding layer there earlier, then how about the thumb plastic?

Edited by ArdeFIN
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