ArdeFIN

Isn't V9 different than SLR, or to say V9 refers to 590 and SLR to 600. I like the different approach from @TheGoalNet where the angle isn't the definition for the break. It's not even the indexfinger-to issue which makes the comparison even more difficult. From my current gloves I use are Simmons UL?, Vaughn VE8, Bauer Total One, CCM Eflex3 two-piece, Vaughn Epic 8800, Brians Sub Zero, Vaughn 1100, 2200 and 2000, and even sometimes Vaughn 7500. They all feel pretty constant to me and I can catch well without any settling in. Then again if I take Bauer Reactor 9000 I cannot catch with it no matter how I try to adapt. Almost as bad is Vauhgn LT90. I've had a few CCM gloves with 600 (different that the 2-piece above) and the same issue, some angle on those gloves just don't fit to me. Bauer 1X was a bit of a struggle where I would constantly get hit to thumb area instead of pocket. This all just for reference as I'm only a rookie having fun playing goalie. And modding gear.

Shouldn't have any, just checking. You can check if there is any effect from the pads when you drop to BF and start the push and see at that point how your feet, skate and pad are aligned together. In the warmup ofcourse

What pads did you use? If there is some padding between ice and your skates that might have some influence here too. Second thing to come to my mind right away is remember to raise your pushing knee enough to retain the attack angle of the pushing skate. I've lost part of this muscle memory once again as we had a Covid break from december-february and only have had a few skates now where I didn't have time to exercise these moves. I feel like I'm not getting the skate angle up and steel against the ice properly. Maybe being lazy to lift my knee. This is a constant repeating of basic things as I'm only once-twice on ice in a week.

Yes, atleast I've improved in taking pictures. That does give me a lot more to write about. Findings continued, the Free Flex cuff was cut by the previous owner. I really don't know if this gives any more mobility or freedom for your hand? One step towards fingers, Bauer has had this elastic strap connecting the cuff and backhand protection together since Total One atleast. I don't know why the designer still keeps this in? Glove date 12/19 is not really old at all. Pinky loop felt slimy even now that the glove is 100% dry. Don't know why but Bauer had the loop installed with the waterproof skin inside and the soft layer outside. I'd prefer it the other way. Same thing appeared on the thumb loop but it was unused by the previous user. I like the loop around my thumb so have to fix this one too. The Y-strap was unsewn too or atleast not connected. From the line of holes you could tell it was sewn but direction is awkward. I wasn't able to turn the strap so that I could sew it back the way those holes are. How was this sewn in your 1S @ser33? Ending it short for tonight and have a bit of a giggle with the visible CURV(R) Composite. Yeah nice to have it there but that is simply of no use and just a decorative piece as you can see when I squeezed the area between my fingers.

I just put this here to get it started. Remember to visit the 1S glove project of Ser33: The worst thing about this one is the fact I didn't measure the weight before starting. Dang. Got over that and this is where it all began. Some wear and really minor tears. Known issues are the visible finger curl, broken closure and some thumb plastic problems. Definitely needs a new plastic but how bad is it. Structurally the same as CCM so could be totally wasted but doesn't feel like. This is the best I could do with single hand trying to close the glove. No matter how I tried. With help I could close the glove not very tightly and sure enough with two hands outside the glove I could shut it up "Made in" is mentioned in every tab...

Very nice! And thanks for trying out my methods of doing these and confirming that you can results out from them. There is a lot of similarity to the US I'm upon at the moment. I'll start a topic of it soon and will link this topic in a few spots. It is really cool to be able to compare the same design of a glove over two generations. Have to mention here that what Bauer has actually improved over the time from Total One to US. It is very little in technical point of view. Changes in shape, angle and other has been the most of refining this glove series.

Ah yes, now I see that too. Saw it first that it was only two colored but the black is actually the inside of the pads boot area. That style for the outer flap I would consider as all you need there to be. If you even do need any kind of flap on the outside of calf except for where you connect the straps. Inside flap seems to be cut down too. Atleast those won't get caught by your boots top edges, I do have that issue with my GT pads few times a season. Easy to sort out by lifting the pad but annoying as it happens.

That's the way I do new plastics too. I very rarely copy all of the plastic shape straight to a new one but make some improvements. Well atleast try to improve. I started my US project too, a lot of similarity already found. Where is the evolution on these gloves? Or is it just a new sticker on an old glove?

That looks more like the original flap has been released from the pad and is only attached with the calf strap going through it. Why would someon do that? I'd probably have to invest some € and get rid of my GT pads. Not that they don't perform but to update to the newer generation. G5 would go for my hobby but maybe the newest ones right away.

I thought I had a picture of the felt used in this glove. Well I didn't but there isn't much to see. When in Pro glove we have some 6mm or more of felt, in this SR level glove there is only 4mm. And it really feels thin. Here's a picture of what is in there when the perimeter is opened and all the inner laces are removed too. I think I moved some holes on the felt and finger plastic to fit the palm Speedskin of the glove. And also the thumbside hole lining was off as usual. They always seem to be, and no matter who is the manufacturer. So to help the thin felt padding in it's job and to make this glove work with normal beer leaguing I thought I'd try and add pieces of Poron. Not XRD but "normal" Poron, which comes in many different types so I don't really know what type this is. But it seems to work as an insole in a shoe.... I used one insole to cover the critical area of the glove. Index and thumb fingers are the most usual areas to get hit and I do get hit on the break now and then so some added material there too. Sheets are spread like in the picture just because the finger area is easier to sew this way, felt part has the plastic sheet in it too and can't easily be sewn. Break and thumg areas then again are easiest done this way as the break area works by the plastic part in between so the added part isn't over any bending area. The thumb parts are sort of left overs, but do their job atleast on some level as they are behind the thumb plastic. That added and everything checked once again to be good it was time to put everything back together and finish this one. The closure is still as soft or not as it was before adding the insole. Adding foam doesn't really make the glove more stiff or worse closurevise if it is done correctly. That said, the glove isn't really a soft piece of love and will be sold to someone wanting a newish P2.9 glove. It's not bad at all and will get a lot softer with some use. But I have so many softer gloves in my storage that I don't need this one. But it was a nice project to do and now we know atleast one part of why these gloves are so freaking stiff. Over and out.

Yes, but you get only to the plates on the inside, and the soft pillow between plates and your backhand is not reachable from there. Atleast hasn't been in the gloves I've opened. VE8 is the most recent what I've seen through. V6 has the same'ish construction too. For the catcher then it seems not to be like in the gloves before V9 and would require some more investigation to make it better. But if you work with Dennis I think that is all you need to do and it'll get fixed

I actually already sold my 1X but used it a few times and was happy with the protection, no problems at all. Ofcourse I don't play full slapshot hockey so hardest shots I face are mostly from distance. But as said no problems with close range snapshots either. I never got used to not having a pinky loop and couldn't set my hand as I would've liked it. And the 1X isn't that much the same as Vaughn VE8 or Premier so I couldn't adapt to catch the pucks into the pocket but moreso to my thumb area and caused a lot of pop-outs.

To comment your glove concerns. Blocker padding is sewn in, so you'd have to open some sewing to be able to change the foam. That is possible to do, but not a simple job. You didn't have a picture of the glove strap as a whole. I've moved the strap position towards the glove for the same reason you are mentioning and it does help a lot while you still can cinch the strap. This job once again requires dismantling the glove at the wrist area and also some sewing job. Not a big thing to do but not the easiest one either.

Thanks all, I have some job done to this one that still isn't documented but when I get the time to arrange all pictures and whatever I'll add the rest of it. The softening process is pretty much written out already and more of a technical stuff coming.

I'll be happy to give you tips if you need any so post pictures if you get into situation where you need a second opinion. These look awful at first but after all is dismantled and washed it already gets better. I have an Ultrasonic waiting for its turn so I'll sure be following this one.

Thoughts. Hmm. I still see a attacking player overthinking his skating skills versus speed and head down, but he isn't in a path through the crease before your poke check hits his supporting legs skate (right foot) and turns it into cutting angle which then sends him over you in force. He definetly isn't in a stabil position even before the poke hits, and his left leg is wandering dangerously towards you. I can't see that guy rushing over you but trying to score with too much speed for skills. And I would give him atleast 2min penalty, he isn't thrown to you by a D. Then again I don't know if the rules say anything about goalie tripping a player onto himself (with poke check for instance). These do happen in the big lights too, I doesn't take a lot to disrupt ones skating enough to make bad things happen from nothing.

I tried not to write this out, but after looking the video through like over ten times and more so repeating the first 10 seconds. I see the player turning in to his right and going over just outside the crease. His doing this line more propably to avoid any contact with the D coming in behind him and at same time trying at some level to avoid contact with the goalie too. When goalie attacks with poke check, he hits also on players inside skate (turning towards player right - inside) and the player having trouble handling himself with his skates looses his control and direction totally and collides you. And at the same time you have pushed your upper body to that "new" line the skater has fallen into. I think the rule states that when a player collides with goalie without being pushed by D it's players responsibility. But I can't see any effort on players side to try and collide with you. His skating line at first isn't towards the goalie but to the front of the goal. Lacking skating skills and trying more than can be achieved is a lower level game problem and that might be a reason for the player doing this same thing repeatedly. This play reminds me of a WWC final game where Finland made a goal that was rejected after a long debate. There was the same situation where player was clearing by the goalie nicely but with goalies own effort the player eventually hits the goalie. Not to attack you Seagoal, but I have to say that I would never do such a tigers leap against a player skating in, maybe do a poke check and going down to BF to block the ice and at the same be ready if the player runs over me.

Found a really nice feature on Bauer website where you can use a slider to compare differences between Hyperlite and Ultrasonic. Not to say it's a perfectly aligned one but gives an easy insight to how the gloves differ at thumb, break, pocket, T-alignment and sizing and whatever else you want to compare.

Many would be happy already from what this project started from but I wanted to see it all. So also the fingerside of the T plastic had to be cut to see if it helped to open the glove wide. And while not really huge difference it still had some effect on both directions. It seems that the multiple layers of Speedskin is also having a bad effect here. But that would require dismantling the whole T which I will not go through as it is intact. MOV_0252.mp4

Whats in that damn thing then? Nothing I hadn't seen before, plastics, some sort of fiber fabric and many layers of Speedskin. The plastics have been broken into two at the band point when the glove has been use for longer time but here everything is like new. Only a bit of fraying in the middle break. The T without the plastic part is pretty soft so I'll just go straight in and cut the thumb side plastic in two. That area has to bend a lot when glove is opened wide and if it is bend like in the picture it'll prevent the closure. At the same time I cut the middle break a few millimeters wider. It didn't feel bad so to say but a bit tight and off from where the T seems to break. Video footage shows how the glove is easier to open a bit more towards wide open and needs less force operate. MOV_0250.mp4

Okay, then jump back to the T attached sequence. Or did I do something that removed the stiffness and didn't even notice? I only laced the T from the lip and the boot at all, and left the perimeter undone too. Results are revealing. MOV_0248.mp4

That sorted (actually was later on) the stiffness was following. Takes a bit of work but rather easy to try things out so first thing was to get rid of pocket lacing. Then I opened up the perimeter at the boot of the T. I tried the closure and opening between every move to notify any changes but nothing happened. The next step was to determine if the glove without T was stiff. To see this option I just opened the perimeter until the T dropped off. If it was stiff then it would be the padding or something break related. I only have a video of this setup and as you can see the glove opens and closes easily, effortlessly and closes with its own weight when layed on table. MOV_0245.mp4 Weird I thought. I was quite sure that there was something wrong with the internals so that the glove was stiff but apparently no. The next step back was to lace the perimeter back in. And as many have said it helps the stiffness if you can open the lacing and let in some extra lace. So I decided to pull the lacing pretty tight, way over the normal tightness I do. Again a video to show the findings. MOV_0246.mp4 Even more interesting. Still no evidence of any sort of stiffness.

The target of this project was to find out why these CCM gloves are so stiff. Is the break area or T? Or something else not so evident. Second target was to try and get rid of the bumb at the heel of the glove. That should be easy task or atleast the reason is obvious. Here are the findings and these are not in any specific order of how I went through the process. Just some sort of easily readable documentation. So the first one is the bumb. As said it is there and the reason is the wrist-thumb plastic where some designer had invented a bumb for some reason. Would be a minor problem if the bumb didn't extend into the break area illustrated with the stick in the picture. To get rid of it and the bumb I first heated the plastic so much that it almost melted and then used some wooden molds I have to flatten the bumb out. After that was done I then cut the excess plastic to meet the straight break line. Just a little more cutting and shaping and also the styrene behind the plastic was cut to the same line. The bumb is still there but in a flatter shape and more contoured to the finger side shape so that it allows a good tight closure. Result of the reshaping. One "China" thing was found with plastics. There is a added layer of plastic at the edge on the finger side, probably to fight the curling. For some reason the added plastic sheet was some 5mm over the edge towards the T. That extra piece was cut off so that the T folds over an even edge.

So I didn't find any topic I had yet written about the topic so it has to be just me thinking of doing it. The glove itself is basic off the shelf Premier P2.9 which I bought from local fellow goalie for 50 euros. Had puck marks to prove it does catch and also had the pocket re-laced with skatelace and also there was a bit of floater added to it. The closure is awful, not that it's off somehow but just so stiff that I had to use a lot of force to close it. And even worse was that could not open it to straigth T. Actually only halfway there. Didn't get any decent complete picture of it before operations but there is nothing really interesting to see here either.

Can't actually understand them doubling the flaps over the thigh padding? What is the use except making them look protruding. If those won't fight against pads thigh rises then nothing will. IMO Warrior made that spot perfectly in the X2 Pro pants. There the flap does what it is supposed to do and that's it. But anyway it's nice to see new things introduced, even if they don't last any longer than one generation.