ArdeFIN

Was it Tampa being good or did the Rangers lost their game in the third yesterday? They looked like they got nervous of winning or whatever happened. No puck control, no organized playing and before that for the first two games and two periods they had a really solid game. Not saying Tampa didn't earn the victory but something happened on Rangers team.

If I remember right atleast the calf flaps are constructed in a way that reguires a full dismantle to get to the velcroes. This applies atleast if there is plastic sheets inside the flaps that would prevent sewing new velcro through the flap. Other velcroes are mostly only on thin straps and are easier to replace. If Warrior was to improve the serviceability even further they would design something like Bauer is using for calf with a strap and buckle on the other end and the strap would only go through and velcro back into itself. Easy adjustment and replacing.

Thought I'd add a complicated GIF animation which displays the change better than comparing pictures side by side. Have to improve the photography a bit to get the pictures aligned better. I'll take this piece of art to one hour real life test today and then I can compare it to the other "590" gloves I've used. Probably works pretty much the same as VE8 but there is always a chance for differencies. Now it is tested and yes it is a lot like the VE8. Just a bit more angle than VE8 which I don't know if I like. From my recent experiences I like Bauer Ultrasonic a lot and that is a lot different angle glove. But I do catch well with my VE8 too and from this experience I'd say the Premier is on the edge of my liking. How it felt as a glove once again comparing to my VE8 the Premier felt more rigid. It is like sort of compressed all the extra air out and only the glove is there. Really liked that feel as it takes out all the mushyness from puck contact etc. Closure is near perfect and really soft. Materials feel nice to hand and there isn't anything that catches attention while playing. The pointy edge of the break might pop out later on when the materials settle to their new positions. Really good glove that is a pleasure to use.

I can only say for what I've seen inside the gloves, atleast CCM Premier, Eflex3, P2.9, Eflex2 590 Custom, Eflex2, Eflex3.9, Eflex4.9, maybe some more that I don't remember right now. Actually none of these gloves mentioned really closed well and neither did them open really well. They were kind of stuck into the half open state. Only P2.9 of these was after very little use and the others had seen more or less of play, usually more. But that still is addition to what someone mentioned in some other topic just recently. Really rare are the used gloves that close really well while most of the used ones are broken in somehow wrong and the closure is far from good. So far I've still managed to make most of the repaired gloves to work. And still that isn't a full statement for all of those gloves needed redesign or fixing design issues. BUT, I've also pointed to many things that I would design differently if I was doing the design. And haven't we seen improvement on the CCM gloves in the latest generations of Eflex5 and Axis2? So atleast something is happening in the design department. Reading this again I think I should start politic conversations. A lot of words with not so much to say or anything wise...

One experiment more, yesterday I tried to cinch the calf strap as much as there was space at the "soft side" not knowledgeing that it is fully adjustable on both ends which I didn't check at all. But still it helped a lot with that maybe 20mm tighter setting. No significant rotation problems or bad feelings about things being tighter and skating around was a lot easier. I'll just have to recheck the calf adjustments to be sure and maybe release some more space if there is some available. Working

Then a few pictures to say it's complete. Feels a lot like the VE8 and I really like how this glove came out. It's really soft and flexible and there should be enough padding despite the original game ready. But even with added layer of padding the finger area feels really thin. Almost like there is only the inner fabric, plastic and 3DO covered with outer jenpro. Annoying actually how thin it feels. It's interesting to get this out for some real shots. FRom this angle the lip of the T is somehow awkward but that is because of the offset T. Wide open as it wants to be. While it's really smooth and soft it won't close itself but rather stays open like a spring. Not really strong spring but just enough. That's it for a Premier. Next glove.

Interesting enough that after a wash, disassemble, repairs, modifications and finally assemble the weight has only reduced by 25g and is now 1052g. Comparison to Vaughn VE8 tells you that these aren't too close to each other. A lot is same'ish though. Differencies are in many angles except the "590" closure. Premier break dives into the pocket more than VE8, cuff is more square to break on Premier and so on. Next picture is with the gloves as above and only shot from above. While they looked really well aligned IRL in the picture they aren't even close. Noticeable differencies anyway. And as said it's not the break line to forearm angle only that plays here.

Then to the building. Here's the glove with inner lacing done standing "under" it's own weight. Doesn't close completely but pretty well for it's not really super soft ie. not used a million times. Same build phase but glove open lying on the table. Laves are still pretty loose and I'll tighten them later on. Not much but enough to get the open loops away. This is the time when things get interesting. How does the renewed T sit into the glove? Is the T break anywhere near at where it should be. And how big or small does it look like now. This is about 114cm perimeter length and no T reinforcement piece inserted yet. Last picture for today is where everything is set up and matched in and completed. Only missing the pocket and the backhand protection anymore. Optically big? Compared to the beginning at the top of this topic.

So only some holes missing and the whole thumb plastic. Well not all of it as I cut the sheet already earlier and left it to wait for everything else gets done first. Some heat gunning and a few wooden press molds I've made for this process. Some more heat gunning and more delicate molding by fingertips. Then some holes drilled and pretty much done. Takes me some 4 hours to finish these but I'm quite picky for the shape and details. This looks one of the best I've made. Then some detail of the backhand protectors attachment. This piece is located in the middle of the break at the heel of the glove and it stiffens things quite a lot. Less now with 5mm holes instead of original 3mm. One detail of the reinforcement for the T. Some cutouts and more holes punched to areas where things should bend.

You could build a link or joint (what ever it is called) to extend the range of movement. That would reguire a bit slower motor rpm everything stays in control. I don't know how useful this type of machining is afterall as most of the stiffness is from the T (plastics inside) where it connects to thumb and finger parts of the glove.

I continue to wonder how these behind knee straps can work when you drop down to butterfly. You have the outer connection point at about where I would imagine your thigh to be located. With original elastic strap there is, well, elasticity but with this mod you don't have that either to help. Not saying this to attack you Punisher Goalie but more in general. And I'm not telling it absolutely cannot work, just wondering how it can work out. I might even try it myself but for some reason I don't own any pads with outer knee flap.

Ah yes. Half piece all the way. On Vaughn 2000 blocker the one piece cuff is a real trouble maker. I think that the one piece design is disappearing from all manufacturers selection? That would be nice.

Can you post one more of the blocker? Interested in the What are these options. Kind of looks cheap in these darker colorways that True (Lefevre) doesn't use binding in the double T middle space and reveals the white jenpro core. Can you measure the perimeter length of the catcher, is the same inch or so off from rule limited 45" as many other gloves are? I like the shape of the 580 but for the few times I've had one on hand they never seem to open wide and remain looking really small. Yes I am a pancake glove lover.

I have no actual experience on Mach at all or US having reinforced T but have seen a Total One with reinforced T and that is an option I would never choose being non Pro. It's basically doubled plastic on the T and will stiffen it that much as both plastic sheets go through the hinge points at both end of the T (thumb and finger side). In the Total One the plastics were already cut from use and gave very little extra for the reinforcing. For the closure stiffness all I can add is that my US is super soft. It almost closes by it's own weight and I've added a 4mm layer of padding in there. It is propably a off the shelf US with Pro palm as there are Poron covering the palm and thumb. For more info on the gloves I mentiones here you can look into the Mods -section. But for this topic I have to comment so much that this is awesome! Just plain awesome. All the pictures, animation(!), information and analyze of things and comparisons. Thank you @ZeroGravitas

I just love how he has all the time to wait for the attacker to make their move and then react on that and stop the puck.

Yes, there are 5 spots that are worn interestingly, but those are so small (area for one is about 10cent coin but long and narrow) and really sharp edged that it doesn't really support the asphalt gaming either. Maybe roller with protective covers would do such markings, can't really tell. The boot wear on the left pad is somewhat normal, the core has a very sharp edge inside. But even with that it is usual to happen. On the right pad there is a minimal spot on the knee-thigh corner, which is also not normal but there is no core edge or anything to explain. And the surroundings are almost intact. There was one or two similar very small spots but I wasn't able to find them in the pictures. Could be the top corners which are usually worn. And are also in my GT pads where those are the only wear spots. I'm really not expecting anything like new pads from Warrior but more so some compensation or even commenting to the cores. I really can't figure a way to break those thigh rise areas on a pad. One way would be to rest your body and hands on them heavily but then there would be some damage done to all of the pads and not just the core being cut in two. The seller has gone quiet and haven't replied to my question about the receipt so there is a possibility of gotten busted. But I'm not raising an issue against the seller either as I propably would not get anything out of that either. Most being send the pads back to him and get my money back and start looking for another set of G5 pads. The Pro coers offer is getting more and more temptating the more I think of this case. The actual wear on the pads is so minimal still and then I could tell the pads to be a G5 Pro pads. With the money I paid for the pads and Varusteverstas offer it would be a decent money for used G5 Pro pads. In the pictures the pads are straight out of the box when I received them and the box was a bit too short so the pads were curved. At the moment they are pretty much straigth even while I have cracked the Profile lock tabs to keep them somewhat curved to close my narrow flare 5-hole.

Just to give my 5 cents. Seat Altea Freetrack, 4WD and 2.0TDI with 170PS/400Nm. Barely fits my gear in as the trunk isn't really huge. Comfortable car and not too expensive. 4WD gets you stuck in places where you would never go with 2WD But in the winter time it's priceless. Picture is not of my exact car but perfectly similar.

Got an intriguing offer from Varusteverstas to upgrade my pad cores to Pro version and the price is really tolerable considering there will be real change. While I'm still waiting for Warrior to give out their decision on whether they think their pads should last a bit longer than a year or not I'm really considering taking the Pro core offer. Luckily the season is almost done and then I have two months before I need pads, yes I have the GT too, so there's plenty of time to get ready for the next season.

Topic matches with a bit of a different approach on my behalf. I'm used to play in R/GT pads 33+1,5" and now took a chance to buy G5 SR+ pads in 34+1,5". The bigger size fits me perfectly and seems that I'm in nice middle space between 33 and 34 in Warrior sizing. The question I have is that now as I have 5 icetimes of experience with the G5 and two in between with the GT for reference. I find that the G5 leg channel is way too open to what I prefer. This is evident when I try to skate in G5. The thigh rises sort of hang inwards and then touch each other gently but enough to interfere. Playing only the basic goalie there is not that much of a trouble and the feel while butterflying etc is pretty much the same compared to GT. So the first option was to strap the calf strap through the opening on the flap to cinch it in. This turned things to the other direction that I was looking for, pads were interacting even more (splitting hairs but I could feel the difference). It actually seems to pull the inner calf flap in more than the outer which then leads to my knee pushing even more outwards. Do I have anything else to try out with the G5 strapping or do I have to install the Professor straps in and see if they have the desired effect. Second option would be to install some padding or pillow to the outer calf flap to push my legs toward the other sidewall of the legchannel. Ah yes, I have elastic toe strap, not boot, no lundy, calf cinched just so that the calf flaps are edge to edge and the knee strap down to calf. Lifting the knee strap would definitely help a bit but that is not an option, I like my knees free.

T day was today and I got most of it done. Actually all of it as there is only the support strip to put in and punch the holes to the T and then attach it to the glove. Here's all you need. Top row includes the T with new end pieces covering the old holes. Actually I cut out the pieces that are lying there just to show you how I do this kind of repair. There are also markings for the new holes but from previous experience I don't do any holes before I can make a test setup with the rest of the glove. Small change in the structure of the glove and the old holes won't match up with the glove anymore. Second row is the new Jenpro piece to replace the old broken one that is on the bottom. This is the worst part of this kind of a project. As there are old holes from previous sewings it has to be made pretty precise so that everything lines up as it was. In this case CCM has done it a bit awkwardly as the jenpro sheet isn't located edge to edge with the rest of T on the left side. The right side is running higher so it doesn't even follow the edge. I first sew one line through with few millimeters spacing to the actual sew line and then made the actual sewing as I had everything lined up as they should. This final sew was done from the other side to follow the original sewing line that left holes to the material which I don't want to see when everything is done. Then only one line left, the jenpro sheet is flipped around and sewn close to the pocket side edge. This line is even worse to do as you want to follow the edge of the new sheet and at the same time want to sew it on the existing line of holes. Inside of the pocket is looking perfect as it should but on the outside you can notice even with my mushy picture that the sewing didn't perfectly follow the old line of holes. I think there was a bit of flaw with the original sewing as my sewing is a straight line. But it doesn't look too bad and there's not much I could actually do at this point. So job welldone and now I have to make the rest of glove ready for the T. Which includes some plastic work. I thought I had more pictures but here's the only one I could find. I use red thread as I have it available and it's easy to see if there is other sewing too. So this is the new finger plastic. Edge piece is original and main difference to the original plastic is that this new one isn't even closely as concave as the original was. I don't like that much of curvature here and it's really difficult to do. Lace holes are yet to be done as I wanna do them to right places and the felt isn't really a good guide to it. Edit: the final install of the fingerplate. Still needs the holes but other than that it's ready to go.

The T is ripped in between and this seems to have happed because the plastic reinforcing piece has bent in varying ways and hasn't fit in anymore. The supporting strip is in good shape and what's more is that both of the plastic pieces are still ok. Bent badly but not broken. Nice break mark on the T as the plastic on the right is a bit too long and there is some excess jenpro inside that have forced the break into slightly offset position. One detail from the inside of what was mentioned above. The spine of the T is built from three layers of jenpro and all of them extented to the lip of the T which doesn't help with the closure. With my sewing machine not really liking the thick jenpro stack either I cut them out as these have pretty much nothing to do. But add some weight. Closure detail on the offset T. When glove is closed the T is bent on break. In normal single T or double T the break is routed by the the spine to help the closure. This is not needed with the offset T but the problem that the offset creates is that the spine has to be bent around for over 90 degrees in two dimensions. Here adding just some 10mm of float to the boot will help in the closure a lot. Not a big thing but in new glove with everything being stiff this would give some help too. Also some 580ish closure on T would help. In the picture the T is heading straigth to the left while the glove itself is to the top of the picture. Not really very evident from the picture but easy to realise with T on hand.

Some findings after getting everything separated. Plastic in all the pieces of it. Disappointing finding was that the finger plastic was also cut in two.

I did look through some old pictures of gear such as Koho Evolution and Heatons. Right after that all the ads are only showing me the "Past Chronicles" Not that I wouldn't mind nice looking ladies. Well. Yeah.

Here are pictures I took just to clarify what I have here, left pad first: Then bent with thumb and index only. Above the seam near thumb you can see the non-linear section. Black is a pain of a colour to take pictures of. Then right pad Then again with thumb and index bending the broken area. Jenpro is very stiff material when it is formed like it is here.

Warrior Finland (Europe) already replied to me on my query asking for some pictures of the pads and if I had the receipt or some other proof for the actual date of purchase. Incredible service if it continues this way. Have to love Warrior.