ArdeFIN

Are the NHL pros moving towards more open and super loose strapped pads with the knee strap down to calf? Is the knee strap still doing something there with stiffer and more inbuilt kneestacks meaning that is the next strap that'll go away? Atleast with Professor strap it propably is useless.

Zero problems with the belt and it operating. Only issues are user related and connecting problems. Then again I might not be the right person to give the true reply on issues with getting hit. As I use only self modded C/As with extra padding all over. But now that I said it I just used the Vaughn VE8 C/A which for the chest part was original and didn't have any problems with that either. And last lame note is that I'm not constantly getting slapshots to my chesty so it might even be that I managed to evade all of them when I ws in with Vaughn for few times.

I'm happy using my Polar H10 but it's the around the chest style belt. Saves all the data into belts inbuilt memory and in the locker room loads the data to mobile app via BT. Biggest issue is contacting the BT to my phone every now and then but restarting the BT on phone does the trick. And just to mention the belt feels damn cold even if you moisten it with hot tap water. Only for few seconds that feeling lasts but yeah.

Watched the same thing, but follow his hands too. Hands are at first really steady and ready. But in the end his hands are all over the place and nowhere near ready to catch anything. Ofcourse this sequence isn't what usually happens in games but a good example that it really is hard to repeat those simplish looking moves more than few times in a row.

What @coopaloop1234 linked says a lot of it. Not that much has changed from RBK to CCM gloves. (And True/Lefebvre are close by naturally just to mention) But please ask and if you run into trouble, insert some pictures of it some of us will help you out.

@creasecollector Something like this? Some RBK gloves had a problem that the inner glove/strapping/etc was sewn together over the knuckle area and that was way too tight and prevented a lot of the good easy closure.

Got my hands on a perfect sample of something or everything being wrong in a glove. This one is CCM Eflex 3.9 and the Speedskin material has ripped from a few spots, but the edge areas are almost intact. Not very reliable seeing the damage. In the picture below red lines are about where the break area is and both lines are where the glove should fold in. The padding includes a plastic strip between these lines too. The green line (yes it is not straigth as it should be) illustrates how the glove has been folding and while compared to red lines show only a noticeable difference it is quite a lot IRL. And more so when you take into account what just said there really is only one fold line and two at all. The blue lining is to illustrate the finger plastic sheet and it should go only to the lower (in picture) red line but in this example it is about and inch too wide or in wrong position. And I don't have to say that the glove is about useless as it is. I had hard time closing the glove with both my hands on the outside of it and trying to use the glove and help the closure with my right hand I wasn't able to close the glove at all. I don't know if I'm going to ever fix this glove but I'll open it for sure to see why the materials inside are so messed up. I've been working with Eflex3Pro and there was no such problems. Keeping in mind that the finger plastic is tied in with that lace going down and the Speedskin is as it should so I can't understand how the insides are now. Except for the possibility that the glove has been opened earlier for some reason and the assembly after whatever done failed badly.

There's some familiarity to Ultrasonic? Edit: gotta be me looking it wrong, or maybe had 1X in my mind on some details. 2X is a lot more like Supreme line which propably also helps with these Hyperlite skinned as Ultrasonic etc mods.

New life started. What you knew about life is what you now should forget. It's never going to be the same again. Congratulations!

Some idea from HD PE, I don't really know if you need more slide over these. And if I needed I'd start with trying to wrap the calf flap with some 3M sticker to test it out. No. I can fly around with speed only having the knee wings PE plated.

Break is folding at wrong lines. You should be able to notice two lines along the break at which the glove should close. Sometimes the closer to thumb line is weaker and gives more flex which results in glove not closing properly. Really hard to explain this in words, but I don't have good enough pictures either to help locating the issue. You can check the break and how it works on your glove. Put your hand in and with other hand try to make the glove close along either one of the two lines of the break and also try to close the glove so that both of the lines bend in with about 50% of the closure on each. I'll try and remember to go to my storage tomorrow and take some pictures for visual example. I have a few Vaughn bloves that are easy enough to give you an idea. Then how to fix this issue. First thing is, assuming the break is folding wrong, to work with closure. Bend it in and close the glove as you would like it to do and then strap around and some weight over it for overnight atleast. Then open the package to see how it works or is there any change and then more work, close in and weight over etc. If you feel handy enough and think there is something wrong with materials then open up the lacing from finger side of the glove first and look inside to locate any problems whatsoever. If it is a 2nd hand glove then it might something as simple as some lace has been opened and then put back together in a wrong way. I had one such project where the in the beginning didn't work at all while being soft and nice. And after opening it up, correcting all the lacing and fixed some materials the glove is a pleasure to use. And this with added padding on all over the palm area. This written shortly; it might be a simple problem of being flod a bit off but the other extent is of it being totally wrong at the moment and requires full overhaul. Edit: is it INT or JR size glove based on the print colors and dummy stiching? You still can compare the internals from 'Mods' where you can look for my project of CCM Eflex3 gloves. Atleast I think there was some insight to them.

? I will be using them on any pads I'll ever buy. I'm so in love to the smooth and effortless slide.

Have to be proud of myself, I was here first with plastic over my GT pads knee blocks 3 years ago already.

Take a picture of the Jenpros over each other and lined up by the wrist edge to show the difference in shapes. There's actually quite a lot of change in between them, to be called with same T5500? Addicting things these gloves are. That I can confirm

Same thing happening in Europe too, Omikron is spreading unbelievebly quick. This might also lead into a situation where the Corona disappears for some time as most of the population has had some level of infection and getting better antigens due to actual infection, and for many of us that is added to what vaccines give.

Tried to find some video which I know to be in the Youtube but didn't. Anyways simple drills for butterfly movements are going around the faceoff dot (or just a puck) and around the center (or B) circle line. In these you have to learn to control the direction you are going and sliding. And in addition ofcourse when going around dot or puck, keep your stance towards the puck at the same time. The last mentioned has helped me somewhat as I'm really struggling to keep my hands in position when butterflying side-to-side and also keep my stickblade in position to stop those fiveholers. Edit: And what helps a lot when learning the technic is that your pads really do slide so you don't have to use all your focus to just get the pads sliding.

For a price of a new one and thinking what it protects, and how much does it hurt when it doesn't do the job. I'd easily pay the price for a new one when my jock is falling apart. Then again I'm using Warrior Xpro which hasn't changed that much over the last years so wouldn't have any adaptation to do when changing to new one. I can't really say how much a new elastic set would cost installed but it'll probably take an hour of work plus a bit of material so less than new jock. Is it worth it?

Yes, I mis-understood the idea of having bubble. They tried to make some sort of but failed. And I read that within the wedding party they even tried to hold the teams in their own floors separated from wedding people and all but afterall even that failed. Too bad anyway as it would've been possible to arrange safely and get the tournament done.

Now I have time to write about this surgery. Patient is the CCM P2.9. Used about 20 times, previous owner had loosened the lacing all around, cut the boot of the T free and added a bit of float and replaced the webbing with mix of skate lace. As is the glove is still unbelieveably stiff to close and even worse to open. I actually can't hold it wide open even when I use some help to push the T straight in. I didn't take any video footage of the beginning but you get your hands on a new similar CCM glove. Then I opened some lacing to find out what is making this glove so stiff. First was the boot of the T, while floating already I took all the pocket lacing off and also opened the edge there. Result: not much, just noticeably softer closure and no change in the opening. I bit of WTF? Next step was to unlace everything to the point where I got the whole T out. And now the glove was like butter, closed fully with laying it on the table and opened in full pancake effortless. Ok. Just to make sure I laced the edges back but without the T and no change in behavior. Soft as a dream glove. Even the bumb of the plastic in the heel area didn't matter. Ok, closure was a bit off yes. So with this evidence the problem has to be on the T as that is the only thing taken away now. What is inside is nothing new from previous mods I've made. The base material supporting plastics is rubber coated fibre material I've never seen before. A bit stiff and could be softer too. Plastics are 2mm and already bent somewhat, compare to the begin picture. The break area has about 10mm open area and looks to be off the line which might need some attention too. So the first test is to cut the plastic on the thumb side right outside to where the thumb of the glove ends and lined as of. At the same cutting process I took a 5mm chunk out from the break to align it better. The finger side is already marked for cutting but first thing here is to make a test to see the results. Insert the T and I laced it only so much that the T stays firmly in but to to the boot area at all. It's better now. Opens easier and closes easier. But still not really soft at all and not opening even close to the max. Next up is the cut on the finger side. The gap between is about 5mm wide and all corners rounded to prevent material rubbing through. Now it got a lot more speed into movements and also the glove opens out a lot better than before. Still I must admit that it leaves a lot to desire when compared to the best gloves I have. To note, there still is the backing material which I could punch some holes to break lines and also the T is built of 4 layers of Speedskin material sewn in tight which already is quite a stiff structure. But the main target for the break in of this terrible piece of gear was achieved and reasons found out. It softens in time from this state and is much more useable now. Not good but useable. Next step was to take some more lace out and see what is in there. Everything looks pretty much new and no signs of use as there shouldn't be. The felt is only about 4mm thick while on Pro level gloves CCM uses 6mm or more. CAn't really understand this choice as said earlier it doesn't have anything to do with the glove being stiff. The wrist/thumb plastic was the next interesting piece and especially the hated bumb on the heel area. Piece of wood is to mimick the break line on the palm and easy to notice that the bumb is halfway over the whole break line. Not only it is heavily against when closing the glove but this also affect the hinge of break. With some heavy heating and molding the plastic between wooden molds I got most of the bumb flattened and then I just cut out the excess of the plastic from the break line. Closure is close to perfect and easily over the "good enough" goal-line. CCM has improved here in the EF5 (and Axis?) generations and removed the bumb too. What remains to be unknown is what was the target with that bumb? While there I also added some insole to add up to the thin felt padding. Just to try this out, it should be Poron atleast All this done I chose to put the glove back together, made some minor cleanups on plastic edges and moved the wrist strap to go just under the nylon fabric and not through the plastic to hopefully give some more life to it.

From what I've heard they basically (speaking of Team Finland stories) lived in a hotel inside some sort of bubble, and while the hotel was (said by a player) about 50 meters away from Rogers Place, they still had to use the bus transit. Team was healthy when arrived, had Corona tests every morning, and only facing the opponents(?) on ice and each other the rest of the time. So there had to be very minimal chance for any kind of infection, if this bubble was intact. If the staff was, and should've been, in the same bubble it doesn't make any difference using mask or whatnot. The Corona infection has to come from somewhere. You really think any of them coaches used the mask inside the locker room? And yes, that said half-assing the mask is as good as just leave it unused. Lets see how things are in the spring when there should be mens WCS here in Finland. What variant is ruining the world then. Omikron probably is over by then.

Just to make sure, the NME VTX and 960 (whatever extension) are the same construction, just fitting different shapes of head? I cannot fit my head inside Profile and the NME fits my head shape perfectly. Not much about gear sitings anymore in this conversation, sorry!

Would be nice, and easier to comment about if you'd take a picture or two with all the parts laid down next to each other in orderly fashion. Looking at pictures of now, what is the orange foam material, why is it outside of the plastic. Seems pretty thick too. I've never taken the felt away, it sort of has a function in how the glove works too and not only as padding. If needed then add extra padding to fingers and palm area. Thumb is usually pretty well protected, but it might be needed to add a layer under thumb too, to the pocket side and under.

I might be wrong but I don't think it's so much the surface fabric that matters on hot rebounds. It's more about what is under the fabric. Plastic, carbon, sheet thickness, foam under the firm sheet etc.

Action time then. First some data of how it was. Picture of the Premier torso over AB. You can notice right away that the AB neck opening is a lot smaller than on Premier? Still I don't know of Premier having a problem with neck hanging. So everything about that fights against my thoughts of the AB having long shoulder pieces that lead to neck hanging low. Next thing to check is how the Premier back plate and shoulder were before modifying them more. Easy to notice how the shoulder area is way too much back even with my narrow shoulders inside it would be almost the same. And yet again the shoulder pieces are from Premier. One picture about the attachment of the shoulder parts. The shoulder plate on the right is about where it should, but notice the top part of the cup which is rigid (plastic?) sheet. It rises far over the imagined shoulderline which might be one reason for the whole thing to flow downwards. Then some detaching, cutting, thinking and designing. Hardest thing here is that there is no clean return to point zero when you begin cutting. And at the same time it's difficult to measure and try to fit things without cutting and sewing together. So the only obvious thing to do is cut some 40mm of material out and then sew everything back together and see how it worked out. Then the final setup. I also sewed two lines to help the shoulder area to flex around my shoulder shape. Once again these are more of a good guess than proper fitting but this shouldn't be so exact and even necessary. Then the other part was done with copied measurements. I got the parts sewn to the torso too and found out that atleast the shoulder cups on Premier parts are awkwardly wide now. I cannot really figure how these were put together on Premier to keep them in line with torsos shoulder parts as the edges don't match without forcing them together. That might be the way it was done by CCM but is mostly just poor desing of the parts. The hanging neck is pretty much done now and the head opening is very small. Not tight as I could easily get my head through and the fit is pleasant. Hopefully I got it sorted now.

Not bad choices you have there, I'd add Warrior G5, Vaughn SLR2/3 maybe, Bauer with both Hyperlite and Ultrasonic, Brians is solid too. (True if available, wait time is long for custom models atleast) And a lot more from smaller manufacturers. Really hard to give any more precise help as we all like just so much different things. What is the most important in my opinion is get the exact right size for yourself. It may be different numbers from each manufacturer, but the actual size is what matters. And also when you find something that suits your style, look for the 2nd hand, there's a lot of almost new sets available too so might get some discount that way.