ArdeFIN

Which has a lot to do with "only available through custom order" atleast for the time being. I would think many atleast could give it a try if it was available in shops.

Yes. Atleast when it's well used one But for a brand new unit I can't tell. Atleast not yet, wishing.

Working on it. Well not actually as I've had multiple other projects and last five days been under fever and getting nothing done.

Alot of look-a-like to Bauer Hyperlite - Ultrasonic. Huge pocket though vs Bauer

You need to build an airbag with soft foam to kill the energy from the puck. There has to be something stiff (thin HD foam maybe) in front of the airbag to spread the energy too. But it doesn't have to be unprotective at all.

The only negative is the plasticcy clacking when you walk. But if you like the slide then you'll love the plastic slideplates. Consistent slide for the whole time on ice. Only the just frozen clean ice is a bit sticky.

Would've been nice to see a comparison with using some sort of leg-skate setup to proof the boot riser etc. Sure there would still be a margin of error but now only putting the pads on a flat surface to show how the height of two pads equal. Not comparing how they differ when set on top of skates.

Try playing with the lace of the cuff too, you could move it down by one or two holes and also give some slack there to open up the wrist area. Blocker is just a blocker until you try something that just isn't fitting your hand. Ofcourse there is a lot more deviation with catchers than blockers. Did you add any extra plate to the blocker? I don't think that the plate with already cracker Curv will last long fixed with glue only.

And toe ties. That's why the elastic ones do a trick here. They are stretched when the pad rotates and they want the pad back to neutral position in front of your leg. Some of the tight strapping or gear connected together is preventing the rotation back to "neutral position". What I mean by gear is like knee pads being edged and hanging against pads corners or whatever. Really hard to tell without seeing into the close and minor details.

https://www.usahockeyrulebook.com/page/show/1084401-rule-303-goalkeeper-s-equipment Tried to find some other rules about but could not find anything different. Materials are not mentioned. Tape is so thin that you couldn't define if it made the pads too wide. Or atleast it would be splitting hair. With any technique I could imagine you are never able to get similar slide than with more slick material. Neither you will get the same results with leg days. It's plain physics that the less you need energy to slide around the better the control to it is. Sliding around when butterflying is ofcourse a technical style which you have to learn and the materials and ease of slide naturally affects that. When it's easier to slide you need a different style, you need less force to start the slide and you need different moves to control the direction. And you even need to learn how to limit the speed and stop the slide. With all that said I don't mean everybody should fly around sliding like on skates. Some don't like it and their style of tendying is different and they might manage very well. For me the superior slide is the only way I like to go with.

@ser33 I'll return to your comments when I get the glove into a state where these issues can be evaluated. Then it's T time. Almost like classic British and still nothing alike. Beginning, inside. And outside. Very nice condition with only a bit of wear on the right end at the lip. What's inside then is nothing spectacular but normal plastic sheets sewn onto a synthetic leather strip. The gap in the middle is wide though. Took one from the inside too for some reason. The plastics are bent at the hinge points but not much. The lip was very stiff and kept the glove in a mid-closure position. The leather was also sewn into the lip, which gives some problems to DIY people if they want to change this setup. Then the last seam opened to see to the inside. Nothing to see here actually so need to do this if you are just to change the support strip. If the lip was worn through you would have to open it this far to replace the jenpro. On positive side of the design the jenpro parts are straight rectangulars and leave less leftovers compared to more traditional design. So what is the plan here? First thing is to add some 40mm of length to the lip. The perimeter of the glove was mere 109cm when I started and it really was optically small. Adding this much length will make a huge change on the covering area of the glove. Why is Bauer giving up this much in the perimeter? It cannot be explained by weight or center of gravity, adding this much material on T isn't doing a lot of change? This has been a tradition with Bauer gear since 1S/1X and seems to be continued. The double T is usually sewn together at the boot and I'll release them and fix the teared one with some sewing. It's not broken yet but going to be sooner or later if not fixed now. That's about it, not much but takes some time and effort to get it done. If I did it properly and had enough jenpro available I would've changed the whole inside sheet to a new longer one and only extended the outside with smaller strips. But saving the expensive material which I don't have a lot available I made four small pieces: They are to cover the old holes and add some extra length where the original material wasn't long enough. Then some sewing. Made a bit of a mistake here with the diagonal sewings that go along the break as these threads will get worn. Hopefully not too fast but they will. Those won't have a lot to do with things staying together as the material is doubled and there is no edge on the outside and these sews only connect the jenpro edges hidden inside. Making this whole piece from a new material would be a lot better choice. It's not a remarkable job with sewing machine so maybe one day I have the material and will to do it. Then more sewing, attach the front and rear parts at the top and renew the lip seam too but without the leather-plastic strip in between. Easier to modify it later on when I begin the closure project. The outer ends of the lip turn in a bit and with second layer of material it wasn't really willing to do it so I left the ends unsewn and only did the middle part. The contrast between original Bauer white and the weave is exaggerated by the cameras white balance. It doesn't look that terrible IRL. Still to do are the bindings and the support strip. I'm not sure if I should get rid of the original part and replace it with some new plastic pieces and a new leather. I would have to cut the original leather and maybe still had to replace the plastics so it might be even more work than make a new one straight away.

Fixing the closure and break. Or atleast an attempt to that. First pictureis from the beginning. The original plastic is once again cut so that the break line doesn't go through the the palm but turns in over 10mm in the heel end. This has a big efefct on the hinge on the break. Sure this is only the 20-30% of the closure normally but still that amount is wasted right away. The area that was in the first picture of the previous messagelooks ok here but the white nylon on top is really loose and lets the finger plastic to push out from the palm and sort of open while it should be only closing in when glove is closed. Like a hinge opening over 180 degree and then cannot be closed over that full open angle. Then I opened some sewings to get the original plastic out and change the nylon lining to prevent the over opening and retain the proper range of motion for the break. Quite easy to reflect the changes with both pictures side by side. Then from old experiences I decided to make a new plastic to the palm with a bit more length to cover the heel of palm too. It is also a bit narrow compared to the original. This is not from break operation but just easier to fit the plastic in and prevent from stretching the nylon again as it was originally doing. 2mm thick plastic is used as was the original one. This piece don't have to be overly rigid to do it's job. Then the padding is done and ready for the next phase. One thing to note that is different from almost all of the gloves I've done before. The holes for the main lace on the thumb side. Those have been off from where I'd like them to be. Usually some millimeters but some have been of over 20mm which is a lot. These holes however are pretty much spot on and only two of them I had to punch a 4mm hole on the side widening the original hole that much. I did a triple check before I could believe it and hopefully I didn't make any repeated mistake on the measurements.

Forward now to get it done some day. Closure issues once again seem to gather to padding and specifically to the break area. Yellow XRD foam is in steep angle towards right while it should be pretty flat in the picture with the glove in open position. Funny how the exact same looking felt+foam+aluminum foil material is used by CCM. Not that it's bad material at all, but two main manufacturers using the same. White thin soft foam sheet that was used in the 1X too. Doesn't really do much as it's pretty much flattened. Then we get into the plastic and the rest of What's in there. Cracked plastic isn't surprice but I expected more at the thumb area due to it's flexing and wasn't expecting the classic wrist strap cracking. Well it's not completely done yet but happening. The plastic was covered with some MD foam all over and the cuff area with Curv had a second layer of it. And there is the precious Curv! It is on both sides of the wrist plate in addition to the plastic. What's the use of it? I don't know as there has been lots of catchers before that didn't need any reinforcement there and made it with only the plastic sheet. Maybe the designer had some great idea that just doesn't show. So I need to make a new plastic which was expected. I had the soft parts being washed out in the mean time and then made some fixings right away. This is pretty easy glove as there aren't any big repairs to be done except the plastic sheet. First turned the pinky loop around, soft side against finger. Then the same for the thumb loop and while getting it set up I fixed the wrist/backhand strapping end to a new location. This attach is something I really don't know if it's going to work this way. Just can't tell before I get the glove back together with the base lacing in. It might rub my wrist too much or be too tight and pulling when trying to close the glove. The worst part is I have to figure out something completely different if it doesn't work this way. And last part of repairs for now is the cuff flap. One more of those "let's see what it does" things. And easy to make changes if needed.

Good job once again. Comment on the thumb protector wear. That occurs from too big or curved plastic inside and which has very sharp edge. And that then contacts the paddle all the time and wears through. Can be fixed by adding new layers but better fix would to cut a bit of the material away to give more room and lessen the pressure against the fabric between paddle and protective plastic.

Good discussion here, thanks for all for that. My first post got a bit messed up and lead to areas I didn't intend. @ser33 got it right as I meant to ask why do pads have a break under knee? What is the use of that or has ever been? That I referred to with knee being a hinge and if any it would benefit from a break in front of knee. Double break in under and above would do that atleast kind of, but still the main question remains; why there are any breaks? I might have one answer that comes from times when there was leather strapping for thighs and that required the pad to flex around the knee to allow the thigh strapping to be used at all. Then my last caption of S curve was meant to leave the break discussion behind and leave the breaks out of the pad. Idea of a "new" pad style, boot break is there if needed (I might for feel of it), straight shin continues to knee level or just above for constant reflecting surface and the thigh rise is curved for 5-hole closure without break so the whole face of the pad is a stiff plate. Except the boot that might be flexible. Definitely this kind of pad might look weird at first and I really don't know if it would work at all. Just a vision of how I would try to improve things and get rid of options that don't give any benefits. Modern goalies with almost 180 degree flare don't really need this S-curve at all and that is new trend, but I don't know if all the hobbying goalies will ever reach that sort of flare?

Thanks. But for sure you have capable gear fixers over there too, Dennis/FMAD and Sarah/PAW, Simmons, and many other that were not mentioned. Some of them could fix this too, and you could dismantle the backhand piece out of the glove and not having to ship out the whole glove. Though atleast FMAD could do some prepping for the glove at the same visit. For the color, if the right shade of green is not available then get it with black nylon or maybe the right green jenpro?

Breaks on the pads are some sort of relic in these days, what is the use of them? Exception here is the boot break, that is a working thing. Why do we have to have a break below knee? Knee is hinge and bends not below but in front of if you see it from pads direction. Is having a bend on a pad below knee some sort of deflecting direction thing? Again thinkin of a leg physically you would need a pad to bend in front of knee, not below. I began thinking of this as I got a bit frustrated with my XLT pads. I love the S shape on them though and as I love Warrior pads I was thinking why Warrior (and all others) is bent below knee and the thigh rise is straight? With my non-existent flare I have to have S-shaped pads and Warrior doesn't offer that as standard. Looking for other choises like Bauer Supreme the shape is just the same, only curve on the face is below knee? Why not at the knee or even a bit above? That would give you pretty constant direction for puck reflections when most of the pad is straight eg. boot to thigh and only the thigh rise would curve in to close the 5-hole if needed.

Just mentioned it to give a reference against Vaughn having to start it all over. They just don't want to do it.

I could change those green nylon patches without a massive project and I'm only hobbying in my garage And still the pads are made with different/right shade of green nylon? What a customer service and it's custom...

One more aspect to the discussion. Hand size, it does matter a lot to how you feel a certain glove. Me, I'm equipped with long fingers so that I use size 11/XXL working gloves just to fit my fingers. Those working gloves are usually way too wide to feel comfortable but at the same time there is no way I could use smaller sizes and have the glove fingers start at my second joint below knuckles. For goalie gloves I struggle with CCM, the fingers are way too short for me. Bauer is close secong and I think Brians is pretty small too (haven't tried the newer models). Vaughn is well useable but the best is Warrior XL palm. It is super wide though but that can be handled with some strapping etc. Same with catcher, basic rule is you should set your knuckles at certain point to make the break work ideally with your hand closure. This leads to thumb placement which changes with the hand size and affects the feel and also to the wrist strap. None of these are adjustable directly to your hand size lengthvise, but more so with how fat or thin your hand is. Warrior has benefit in cathcers with their palm design, that you can also adjust a little to your hand size. But not much.

Not much of an experience but I've seen Vaughn and Warrior gloves in both hand versions and they are very similar in every aspect. One could say they are a full mirror image of each other. And to say it out, that would be the way I'd do it. Mirrorcopy a good left hand glove and that's it. I don't see any reason that would require a special design to fit full right from regular.

Isn't V9 different than SLR, or to say V9 refers to 590 and SLR to 600. I like the different approach from @TheGoalNet where the angle isn't the definition for the break. It's not even the indexfinger-to issue which makes the comparison even more difficult. From my current gloves I use are Simmons UL?, Vaughn VE8, Bauer Total One, CCM Eflex3 two-piece, Vaughn Epic 8800, Brians Sub Zero, Vaughn 1100, 2200 and 2000, and even sometimes Vaughn 7500. They all feel pretty constant to me and I can catch well without any settling in. Then again if I take Bauer Reactor 9000 I cannot catch with it no matter how I try to adapt. Almost as bad is Vauhgn LT90. I've had a few CCM gloves with 600 (different that the 2-piece above) and the same issue, some angle on those gloves just don't fit to me. Bauer 1X was a bit of a struggle where I would constantly get hit to thumb area instead of pocket. This all just for reference as I'm only a rookie having fun playing goalie. And modding gear.

Shouldn't have any, just checking. You can check if there is any effect from the pads when you drop to BF and start the push and see at that point how your feet, skate and pad are aligned together. In the warmup ofcourse

What pads did you use? If there is some padding between ice and your skates that might have some influence here too. Second thing to come to my mind right away is remember to raise your pushing knee enough to retain the attack angle of the pushing skate. I've lost part of this muscle memory once again as we had a Covid break from december-february and only have had a few skates now where I didn't have time to exercise these moves. I feel like I'm not getting the skate angle up and steel against the ice properly. Maybe being lazy to lift my knee. This is a constant repeating of basic things as I'm only once-twice on ice in a week.

Yes, atleast I've improved in taking pictures. That does give me a lot more to write about. Findings continued, the Free Flex cuff was cut by the previous owner. I really don't know if this gives any more mobility or freedom for your hand? One step towards fingers, Bauer has had this elastic strap connecting the cuff and backhand protection together since Total One atleast. I don't know why the designer still keeps this in? Glove date 12/19 is not really old at all. Pinky loop felt slimy even now that the glove is 100% dry. Don't know why but Bauer had the loop installed with the waterproof skin inside and the soft layer outside. I'd prefer it the other way. Same thing appeared on the thumb loop but it was unused by the previous user. I like the loop around my thumb so have to fix this one too. The Y-strap was unsewn too or atleast not connected. From the line of holes you could tell it was sewn but direction is awkward. I wasn't able to turn the strap so that I could sew it back the way those holes are. How was this sewn in your 1S @ser33? Ending it short for tonight and have a bit of a giggle with the visible CURV(R) Composite. Yeah nice to have it there but that is simply of no use and just a decorative piece as you can see when I squeezed the area between my fingers.