ArdeFIN

It's not much to see with these pictures. I remebered wrong here as I've since updated these pads to the ones I had in my FrankenCCM. These addons have sewn in jenpro tabs with holes. Structurally the same as to make the holes to the pad itself. The added tab doesn't show too well in the picture but you get some idea. Then some lace to attach the pad to the length adjustment holes on Warrior C/A. Could use elastic lace here too to add some give to the movements. Warrior has a lot of holes to lace sleeve which is good for aligning the sleeve but also to add this kind of extra. Any way you do it you need to test it a bit to see how the tab positions itself to between the layers. Another one from under the added tab. If the holes were through the flap it would maybe be easier to set it where you want it. This type of attachment leaves some play no matter how you tighten the lace. But in this setup it works. I can't tell that the extra flap is there from mobility nor anything else. Direct comparison isn't possible though.

I'll have to take some photos of the attachment to give you a better detail, but simply said I made holes to the beefups and tied them to the sleeve laces. Warrior uses the lace attached sleeves...

I really cannot see 581 there but rather there are 590 and 580? What is the 581 supposed to be as I thought it was 580 with some new details.

Is this a quality issue on new True gear or what?

There is, or was, one Euro goalie who played in team sponsored Warriors and when his team contracted to Bauer he had his new Bauer gear opened up and Warrior guts build in. Not much for the topic though but good topic anyways, hopefully we get updates and pictures.

"Currently Unavailable"

Either the build quality is close to none and these are not made overseas right? Or there is a lot in the design and structure that we don't know about. Ofcourse nothing lasts forever and these boots have overlasted that limit a long time ago... But still pretty sure that the previous owner will have an "Ohhh!" feeling when he gets to use his next intact skates that are firm and supportive. You can tell a lot from the first pictures from inside the heel where there is a lot of abrasion. And these skates are famous for the good heel lock right?

Proven to work! But can't really what was the reason, fresh autumn ice or humidity or what. I had a slide of my life yesterday. As I thought I was accustomed to the slide these PE plates should give there was a lot more. I felt I was all over the crease and more. And without a lot of effort at all. I had my new-to-me GT2Pro pads for the first time on ice too but that can't explain all the slideability. Well a few more ice times and I'll know more. And maybe I'll have to take my old trusty GTs in between for once. For the GT2 vs GT, I was all the same. And for the size, I'm better off with 34+1,5" but I wasn't a huge difference. On the down side I dropped of the block a few times that never has happened with my GT pads. But that was propably from the loose knee sling. The nylon part of it to be exact as the stretchy part of it was snug. And comparing to the G5, the GT2 was everything I missed while I used the G5. So I'd say that if Warrior doesn't have the option to make the leg channel narrow on G6 then I'm out of Warriors pads as a future choice. I need the leg channel to be narrow but not too snug fit. Edit: Maybe this comparison text should be somewhere in those Warrior pad threads....

Don't really know the exact type of PE these are but it's some of the most basic material I have available at local store. For so far from 2019 I've made these mods and fixes I've always used this same PE and it has held up on anything thrown to it. I've used it to blocker plates, catcher plates, slide plates and what more. And I do have similar plates on my GT pads except those are a whopping 4mm thick plate and I made similar 2mm plates to my G5 pads that I got rid of already. So these should last. Edit: Should be PE HD. They advertise it for ice hockey rinks amongst many other purposes...

Last but not least is the installing which after a lot of fitting and proven system was nothing really challenging. A few tweaks that I made for these include that the knots are hidden inside the plastic. This is more of a visual thing than anything really important to do. Looks clean when the knots aren't there. Front lace (right in the picture) goes between the knee block and the pad. This is still the "old style" pad where knee block isn't heavily attached to the pad. Might be difficult to lace the plate this way in newer Bauer pads for instance. The other lace goes over the block and is trapped behind the grey ridge that is only as wide as seen in the picture. Laces only keep the plate against the block and prevent it from moving back and forward while there are also those edges for that too. The only knot left visible is the front below the block. It could be hidden too but would take a lot of effort for basically no reason. And could propably loosen the attachment which isn't really desired. Different angle for the same thing. The plate is just that much out from the sliding surface of the pad that it takes most of my weight to the ice. I can still control my movements and speed by using my ankle pressure and ofcourse the skate blade. Total time spent to make these plates was about 4 hours including all fitting and whatever hazzle there was with tools and materials. So it really isn't fast and in no way profitable to make these for sale. But if you have some hand skills other than catching pucks and own the few tools required then you should be able to do your own slide plates. Any questions for how I made something here that I didn't tell please do ask. I'm not educated plastics worker so I may have some faults in my process too. If you know better and can give me advise I would appreciate a lot. Thanks and happy sliding!

Then it was obviously time to heat things up. I had most of wooden molds readily available from previous projects but some were created during this process. First I made the easy ones, high side edges that keep the plate in place against the long edges of the block. The roundness on the wood is about 5mm radius (pre-milled, not made by me) so pretty small but suits the 2mm plastic. For 3mm sheet I'd go for bigger radius to keep the bent corner smooth. There is a very thin line to target the inside edge to. Inside is easier in my opinion as you don't have to account the thickness of sheet or anything but just bend the sheet to 90 degrees against the wood. More heat was applied to the outside and less to inside to make the outside softer and stretch that small length instead of getting the inside to wrap up. That was easy, both sides to 90 degrees and cool down with cold tap water. The sheet can be re-heated and bent if the result wasn't what expexted and if the plastic wasn't melt it can be returned to pretty much beginning state. Sure the heating and cooling process does change the plastic so less times heated up is better here. Then to the more difficult part which is the edge to the front face of the pad. This edge has to be shallow so that can't scrap the jenpro but still high enough so that it doesn't catch the roughness of the ice when sliding. Rounded would the proper term here. After doing these I remembered that should've left this edge some 5mm longer than I did. The extra helps the bending a lot but is also waste material after as it is then cut off. So I saved that 5mm of plastic sheet and 15 minutes of extra trouble of setting the mould to make roundness I wanted. Wood here is specifically cut to make this edge. Took some minutes to cut and round the corners but saved a lot of time and effort and the result on the plate is very nice and I was also able to repeat the process on the second plate. Then that headache mentioned. After bending the "rear" edge up I had the corners to do which are also rounded to bigger radius while bent up. I should've left some 10mm of sheet into the corners here to get the edge rounded and looking nice and properly done. Well I didn't so I had to cut the corner a bit and melt the plastic to stretch a bit of extra from there too. I will work though as that spot isn't really doing anything but the rounded edge to prevent catching the ice. Green line on the picture is to mimic the plastic I wasn't supposed to cut out. I also made more rounded corners to the wood piece that I used to bend the front edge but that didn't work here either as the bend had to be drawn inwards a lot. But after getting that sorted out these short corners were easy to do. This was actually the only place where I did carefully melt the plastic to stretch it but also to make it easier get the three dimensional rounded corner. The edges are shallow on the corners but should be enough to slide around properly. Holes are already drilled and all the edges rounded and sharp edges dulled or cut. The center of the plate is convex after heating the plate and that is in my opinion a desired thing as the edges are lift up more and the pressure is on the middle of plate as much as the 2mm plastic sheet does give any support here. But better than being concave.

As I bought the GT2 pads and needed the PE plates to slide properly I thought now that Warrior is already selling these I could just make a little how-to-make-them-by-yourself description. What you need: 2mm PE or other plastic sheet about 20cm x 40cm piece. PE is my preferred plastic type for hockey gear things and 2mm is thick enough but very easy to heat up and mold. Exacto knife Heat gun @ 300 celsius Carton to make a template Pieces of board, lumber, ply sheet for moulds, will help a lot Then we begin with some templating. I just cut a wide enough sheet of thin carton, cut it into close shape and then fit in, think of the plastic and how it can be bent to desired shape and cut a bit more. And doesn't need to say that the pad is needed in this phase also? It's possible that the plate has to be asymmetric for right and left pad as the knee block might be different shape in the corners and blocks attachment to pad can be what ever. Here's the template on the plastic sheet that is cut from a bigger sheet "close to the measurements". Draw a line with sharp pin, knife or what ever. Doesn't need to cut deep yet and the carton isn't helping to guide the blade, don't even try. As the PE sheet gets very static charge it will attract the dust, which can be then used to highlight the drawings. Cut a new sharp edge for the knife if possible and draw the first line, don't need to use extensive pressure here! Actually a lot easier to almost just slide the blade on the plastic. Actually the lines in the picture above are after the first cut already. Then repeat with slight pressure and follow the cut carefully. After four-five repeats the cut is already going through. Corners were easy so those are already cut out. Don't try to cut from the other side and keep cutting from one side only, the knife follows the cut really easily when there is a little pressure on and the angle of the blade is big enough. Outside corners are easier as you can slip to outside from the cut and it doesn't affect the result. But if the plastic sheet is cut into the piece that is to be used then the game is pretty much over as it isn't really repairable! Ofcourse depending on the depth of the cut too. But it starts to crack pretty easily when cold and bent etc that happens when in use. So take your time and cut carefully. Also be cautious to the blade, it cuts fingers super easily too! And this is what I have after an hour of working, starting from gathering all the tools and materials to two cut pieces of plastic sheet. There is also a mistake on the template that caused a bit of a headache during the molding...

And this is all the interest there is for new CCM gear

I didn't even notice before that CCM has removed the concave shape from the thumb side, shows really well in the picture. That might or might not make some difference to the feel of the glove and catching the pucks too.

Eh, thanks. This goes a bit off from what I've experienced since I don't really need more pop for my blocker than I have. That said it is usually a plastic sheet added to the front. But for the plastic type or thickness I really cannot give any good advice. For the pads, it would be an awful lot of work to do as you would have to dismantle all the structural lacing and atleast one binding before getting into it. Lacing is still in a range of things but those bindings are difficult to do and need a lot of effort and right tools too. So as others have already stated, get some Bauer for the pop. Or just newer set of any brand for more pop.

It'll take a few years to get these 580 mimics into the used glove markets. The Vaughn 70-version could be something I'd like to use as the V9XP is not for me. Funny actually as the 580 has been available in CCM/Lefebvre/True custom for a long time and only now every manufacturer have made their own version to claim the markets.

A new idea but needs some developing to work, atleast those arrows have to go: I don't know if the NA hockey dictionary has the saying "player hits the logo" which for those who don't know means that a player shoots the puck and hits goalie in the middle of the chest where the team logo usually is. I had this on my previous jersey, so now that I use different jersey I could add that hint for the shooter on my pads as the thigh rises of the pads are usually located just below the intended target; logo... Sure enough the pronounce in finnish is also problematic to split in two: "OSU LOGOON".

Yes I know about the photo, and my answer to it wasn't just for NYR but all similar graphics. Those are actually pretty cool except for the splitting issue. I'd have a LOTR Witch King instead of Statue of Liberty though The pricing for the prints is what it is. I think it's part of not too well selling product which still requires quite a lot of investing into. Could be cheaper if I tried to find the cheapest option, that's only one offer.

Can you add a picture or two from side/inside too? The shoulder area seems pretty well wrapped around. Every time I see this CCM Pro I can't understand why they have left the collar area so open? The heartguard could be a lot more "U" shaped to cover up those corners and from what I've modified some C/As that area doesn't really affect anything mobilityvise but is very sensitive spot to get a puck hit to.

I could go with some graphics or picture too, but in most cases such as that NYR I don't like how it splits when down in butterfly. So the image should be something you can split in the middle and it still some way works when rotated and flat to the ice. That then needs even more of a graphical skills to be able to create something like that. Then again I don't know yet what are the requirements and limitations on printing techniques. The sheets that the printing is done are 70x50cm (100€) or 70x100cm (150€). Material is thick vinyl and the adhesive is sticky and elastic. Why I don't want to cover the whole face then? That is the side rolls are somewhat difficult or even impossible to tape over so that it looks ok. And I think that the white side roll will apply to the result easily. From the bigger sheet size you could add the boot to be covered.

Turning around over the VE8 graphics came into this, it's not completely what I'm after but not bad. Except the drawing skills I own Have no skills and didn't really invest any extra minutes to the effort. The light grey squares need a bit more thinking and the boot edge stops too hard to the whole white.

Once again I just didn't mean to but when you are offered a proper gear for a (what you consider) fair price. You have to buy it just to not regret afterwards. So I bought some Warrior GT2 pads in 34+1,5 as lately I've been struggling with the length of my GT pads that are 33+1,5. And I wnated to see if there was some other pros in GT2 over GT. Side note that I had the G5 pads for some time but never felt the leg channel worked for me and at the same time the GT pads have felt so good. Then about the title is that the GT2 pads are ex pro of some level and have had atleast two different ads on the face. Which in change has left and will leave even more of the glue residues. As the pads are also all white which I really don't prefer I thought I'd order a graphic of some sort printed to that similar ad material and replace the ads with that. That would save me from cleaning the residues, get rid of the ads and update the all white looks. What I'm really poor is desinging graphics. I can tell from picture if I like the graphics of some pads or whatever but I cannot create anything I end up liking. So post me some ideas for pad graphics. The area to be covered is shin - knee rolls - thigh. Boot and side rolls are excluded. Black-white-grayscale preferred but genuine addition of a bit of highlighting colour is a possibility. Geometrics that would work from stance to BF. No tribals thanks. Here's an example picture of how the ads cover the pad. Edit: just made some quick paint drawings and thought about what I do like and one basic graphic theme I like a lot is the Vaughn VE8. I don't want to copy that as is but something similar. SLR2 graphic is neat too but more of a tribal which isn't for me at all.

Similar mods and weight saving as I reached in my XLT28 pads (33+2). I jumped straight into elastic strapping copied from Bauer and Warrior mostly.

This is so easy add-on that it beats out the knots. For me though, I love the loops and the contact they make to the glove. Best thumb loops ever are on Vaughn when they had 3 straps and the loop was almost as long as my thumb. And for those who make knots and are happy with that, like me. Just make one knot per strap and don't even try to knot the straps together. Trick to get them right is check first the right fit, then pull the strap out and make a knot about where you had the right fit. Notice that the materials where the straps come through are not fixed so you have to push them in as if you had your finger pulling the loop. Those clasps just sound so easy! But I wanna stay old school and make knots