ArdeFIN

@Hockey34 It's the wrist strap pull loop. Picture is from my Ultrasonic refurbishment where I made the loop shorter as it was way too long. You sure can pull the wrist strap tight with that For the finger loops; I do them snug so that it feels good and then forget them. This setting is still loose enough so that I can easily lure my fingers into the loops.

Warriors are pretty wide, but taper upwards so the waist opening is quite narrow. Bauer Vapor 1X (maybe 2X too?) is one of the widest I've ever seen, It's super wide and the top edge of the pants opens even more. But if you don't tuck, isn't the wide waist going to cause some inteference between pants and C/A?

Do they loosen up or you can't get em tight enough? Are those still the normal style of string through a hole and knot to hold the position? This is how I tie them and they do hold forever. It's just the most basic knot you can make. And don't even try to tie them together.

I'm self-censored too. It's f***ing annoying at times but I'm getting used to it.

You can always add one day propping and one day close-up routine. Close-up meaning you close the glove hand inside properly in a way that feels good to your hand and then tie it up in the exact position with some skatelace or nylon strap with buckle. This tie up must be done with care so it is tied just the way it feels good. It takes a lot more work to fix a glove that is somewhat f**ked up on the break. That way you get both extremes prepped and the glove will open and close nicely. Photos would've just helped us to give you some points to focus at while working with the glove. You can tell quite a lot from just how the jenpro on the palm has shaped over time.

This is always entertaining as how black and white these posts see the bungees. There seems to be no other option than stiff. But for sure we have to remember the function of toe laces for pros, using them to push out from the post. Hell I can't even push myself out of the post as my BF doesn't flare enough. Would be a million dollar invention to put best of the both worlds together. Lace to push off from the post and bungee to rotate the pad.

In the Mods area there are Vaughn 1100 and Vaughn 2200 topics where you can check for some ideas about what's inside the glove. If you can post a picture of the glove opened "normally" with glove hand and another one with the glove pulled wide open. There are some issues in Vaughn gloves that affect the closure and 1100Pro is the SR level made overseas.

From what I've seen it's pretty common that fullright gloves are way different than their regular siblings. They should be just mirror images of all the patterns used to make the glove but for some odd reason they are not. For that Askarov glove pictured the thumb area seems very deep and narrow and the break line is closer to wrist just like 580 is. Interesting is that I remember him using CCM 600 before which isn't anything like that.

What part is Kenesky? Arms have CCM logos and so does the heart guard. And it definitely looks the same as other CCM Pro chestys I've seen. As long as we are talking about the picture that RedX posted earlier. You are mixing things with Copley picture?

It's also hanging really low which was with the AB Pro due to the back strapping of the shoulders. But isn't this new Pro series with the same system that is on Eflex/Premier/Axis which shouldn't be hanging down like that?

I assume you want to use the strap behind your knee and not down to calf? If you have a speedy stitcher then it's easy to add something to the edge binding to attach the strap to. But other than that It's not easy or convenient at all. The original cradle was sewn in and awfully thick. I removed those from my XLT28 and it was a huge improvement for knee pads to fit inside knee area. Edit: you had the leather strap points still available, so never mind about the stiching thing...

This image compared to being paddle down, what more could the paddle do than the leg pad is already doing? But going paddle down you open up a lot of the goal above you? And as @ThatCarGuy said you position yourself into an unstable stance from where you need more time to recover or move.

Is there something extra or added to the bicep area? Looks like it is block by block design but was it already in X3? Atleast X3 had that extra flap going from wrist to bicep adding some extra to elbow too. GT2/G5 in comparison is/was with one piece bicep protection.

So they know what they need to do and still they want to produce retail as garbage for what reason? To get rid of retail customer or what. Just can't understand the logic behind this. Not pointing to any of us either that we should understand. This is somewhat the same thing that big brands produce PRO gear for NHL and maybe some other professional leagues and then create something else for retail. Spend some serious funds to design a lot of extra gear. Why wouldn't the semi-pro guy want to use NHL level Pro gear? And is it somehow lowballing the NHL guys that people can buy their level of a gear at retail shops... Could you @ThatCarGuy at some point compare the custom and retail 591 gloves side by side? Is there anything different by what you see. Both are made overseas so that isn't an option. And just to say it out any glove can be made to close, and open wide, easily. Most of the stiffness with CCM is probably from the T.

Watching this clip actually doesn't make me miss those days, beating guys lying down on ice to back and neck. Fight is a fight but it ends when either one falls down and you don't beat after that. Octagon is different thing. Looked like there was a pure intention to injury Salo in that clip whacking down to his neck. We have some players that beat the fallen opponent in the NHL, rat moves I'd call them and point to some directions...

This, they try to figure out something new and revolutionary while the basic product is failing. The 591 and 581 and whatever could be the next super seller. But only if they could change the structure to be soft. It would be 592 that is really and truly butter soft, with just the same design as 591 that could be it. And only for it being super soft to use off the shelf. It's not even difficult to do and only needs a few minor changes. But they don't seem to realize what they need to do first.

I thought that the Professor strap was supposed to be below knee? But seriously the buckle has to make some hefty pressure at that spot to create a bruise like that. Same on the other leg too?

Yep that was a whole set of G6 gear. It still might do some good for the marketing while Warrior is doing pretty well in my opinion even without any NHL visibility. What I meant with the 1st Gen design is that a lot of outlook is from 1st gen pants and not from 2nd or 3rd. But still the thigh boards are definitely a new design for Warrior and not available from stores.

Those look a lot like Gen.1 design, though it's propably some test series designed to league limitations so it can be a proper mix and match of anything they have available and makes a good setup.

Hasn't that been always the way? Atleast I remember from 90's when I was a kid. We had brands like Koho and Cooper, Pallas and what else and that was what we wanted to use and wear. These days my friends who have their kid playing hockey and especially goalie they are very keen to use CCM and Bauer despite the catchers are never soft enough to even close and some other problems with gear not fitting them. Warrior is a possibility because in Finnish Liiga there are several good goalies wearing Warrior gear. Brians or Vaughn? No way unless the goalie himself wants to have something that a NHL goalie is using but very rare are those kids.

Had my 1X yesterday on ice and tried to replicate what happened to you, and yes the thigh board seems to be willing to shift sideways and it would be possible to let the puck in by that. Not and easy mod and it might have some negative effect too, is to add some padding either to inside (between thighs) or to outside where there is a soft padding in a bag atleast on 1X pants. This, carefully positioned should shift the thigh board outwards and prevent the excess rotation. But it also could make some trouble atleast if you use knee pads that wouldn't fit in with added padding. If you can add some to try it out it might help even with the placebo effect of making things better. Have to say from my three times on ice experince with these 1X pants that I don't really like them that much. They are trouble free and lightweight but at the same time they are made with excess amount of bling and cadgets that give nothing but good looks. That has some effect on my mental playing that I don't really like the gear I'm wearing even while they're perfectly doing the job. This is written from comparison to Warrior X2Pro and Simmons 996Pro pants. That said I don't have a real issue with either of them and still all of them have some problems I cannot solve easily so I'm going to look for some future options.

If it is the thigh plates, you can easily check them by slightly bend the plate. It should have little to no bend in it if everything is ok. Next that comes to my mind is to check all the seams that everything is intact. So that the thigh plate does not have a possibility to turn and let the puck go by. X900 is the old style of pants where the thigh plate isn't rounded up and should be quite flat. I have 1X version in large so I can share some thoughts with you, and I already looked inside the thigh areas to fix some wear spots. This is the (left) thigh plate in 1X pants, propably no Curv and only plastic in X900. There is an annoying sewing in the middle which could break and let the plate bend somewhat.

Jenpro surface is a tough one to find anything that bond to it in long term. So try to add the glue only to edges of the cut and behind the cut area. And add a layer of some material that also bonds to the glue, Jenpro upsidedown would be good. Superglue is a nogo for Jenpro, it hardens completely and doesn't have any elasticy. Jenpro is very elastic material. I don't know for sure but I think superglue doesn't melt the surface as you can use it for instance to fix ceramics like coffee cup. I think that ceramic material does not melt. But it is a strong chemical liquid that will react with some materials. And one more no for superglue is that it is a pain to fix anything with sewing machine as it is extremely hard when cured.

This might be exactly what I'm upon too. Despite @coopaloop1234 offer I'll propably have to manage this myself in some way. As said luckily I don't get headshots in every icetime and hopefully it continues that way even with me having top notch gear for protection.

That was my first thought and that might do the trick, but then thinking that the sound is metallic it would come from cage more than the mask itself and then the dampening wouldn't do much. Also those add considerable amount of weight and last issue is adding 2mm material between the padding and mask. But under consideration still. I've checked everything throughly but I still might've missed something like bad welding on a cage. Might be able to ask for warranty but then again I love this mask except the sound so I'll try and find a way to save this. But if it was material problem then warranty is the way. No reason to use a 800€ mask with material flaw that might lead to injury in worst case. I only play low level hockey and no official games at all and (luckily) do get only very few head shots so I'll take my time and maybe a few more hits to head before I make a decicion of how it will be. And I have the REY still so I can go back anytime and try to get rid of the Bauer. Thanks for the feedback so far, seems that it's not unheard to get some ringing effect from Bauer.